dat2kman

Whoa, one i got here came off a 79, size on it is 14/16 ths, ie 7/8 ths, not 15/16 ths, so pedal affort and movement/travel, would be a poofteenth differemt than a 15/16 unit, and far different from a 16/16 ie 1" Let me know if what i have is ok for you, it came straight off the boosetr unit and comes with the mount plate for the zx booster, i can supply the booster too if needed. This eas tne odd one, import badged as a Fairlady zx with l28 non turbo, but had turbo ecu fitted, along with a steering rack, not like normal zx Ausdie deliveted jobbies.it was a 2+2 . The 2 seaters also had racks instead of recirc ball steering. Someone eade in here re the pedal affort and movement isdues between variuos size master cylinders???

Got a complete front lower under the bumper bar curvy indicator/ running lamp assy with good uncracked lens, can arrange pack and post to you, all up, say $80 It is the left hand side only!

Jake, i got plenty! Four off 205/50x16 unmounted, just legal tread depth, ( shouldets a bit thin, but centre is good) 80 the lot or 50 a pair Pair of very good depth tread no shoulder wear, in 225/50x16 unmounted, 100 the pair, And a set of four, also in 225/50x16 on stock S14 Sylvia five stud rims, very good tread depth, with rims at $250 Rims ar 7" wide so easy fit the 225 or the 205 on a 7" cann strip off rims, but you gotta get it done nearby and bring rims back, then just tyres at $200 Have few 17" as well suit 8-9" rims

Got one in Brisbane, can post $70

It'll be a short nose, same as fitted to r32gtr, me thinks. Unbreakable too

It is an as permitted by CAMS front spoiler for group S for 240 or 260 z. The bre trpe is also permitted but only a certsin design. BRE had a number of styles, variuos adaptatons for the cars they prepared, ie Datsun Roadsters, 1600, Z, 1200, they ran with eitjer the brake scoops or without. Thete wrre that many variatipns from so ,any backyard glassets, it was then, and still now hard to keep track of them. The full side wtap type is not permitted for Group S. The homologation papets state tje original part numbets, for tjese, as supplied in early to mid 1970's to US delivered cars The one above, make unknown, is quite deep once fitted, but not a grader blade!

Yeah, them ones, fuzzydropbear wants a rear bobtail, and op above wants a front! Navanskyline might be jind enuf to split them ? Not split as in smash and break!!, but as in separate the two items, ooohhhh!

Really really quickly, long story, but a workshop in underwood has a decent quality two pst host that needs removal, it is near new, landlord wants it gone, price new approx $5000 sell at $2500 It is full heigjt ie 4000 high, single phase It needs to be gone wothin two weeks Prvious occupant did a runner 4 months ago, landlord wants to recoup rent owing, portion of? My spotters fee to the buyer is $200 paid to me. I can email photos. Dont muck around, this is a quick one. I got one of my cars out, there are five more left, landlord just want everything out, he has no claim on the cars, WHEW Pm me

Oh goodness no, dont start him up on that, over the top! Just let all enjoy the fay, hope weather fines up!

Send navanskyline, here in Brisy, a message, he bought one off me a while back, but i see he then fitted a different one on his car.

Steve, you didnt dismantle the afm you got from me? It was a goid one! You mentioned fuel tank a couple of times now, Do you have a basic low pressure type clear see through fuel filter BETWEEN the tank outlet and the pump, even though there is a filter at tje pump, it is prob on the engine side. These tanks do go rusty over time, think about it, ie condensation, flakes of rust etc fall down rattle about, and all you have is a little bit of metal pipe inside diam aporox 4mm , easy to block, or get partial block, pump sucks like billy-o bit of gunk flaps up, presto no fuel, engine stumbles under load, but the idle is ok Temp fix, loosen feue cap, use comp air, blow back into line into tank, it will still block though. Proper fix, remove tank, and sender assy, put a couple hand full of nuts and bolts in, shake the living crap out of it, turning upside down, you will amaze yuouself at tje amount of crap that will come out. It will still flake. I have tanks from old Datsun Sports that are like a xmas fairy lantern they are so pinholey!

More bang for buck Just buy performance stuff off shelf and bolt on Better weight distrubution Chaep turbo fix Plenty room for kickarse intercooler and radiator, set back Perfect track weapon' Rb conversipns are now so passe'!

Proof of ownership would be required to sell this, unless there is any other form of evidence that says othetwise. If it was an all original car, and not had "intersting" engine/box fitted, maybe saleable.

p90, tick f54 strong rigid block, tick unscrew spark plug, stick in thin flat blade screwdrivwer, feel around back side of piston, ( make sure pistion is close to top-- may have to take all plugs out to find one,,,, or turn motor over--- dont leave screwdriver in thought!) If you can feel a bit of a slight ridge, and a dip, presto dished pistons, only 7cc mind! S30 shell is lighteter than S13 Silvia, so no probs with torque, but if you want torque, just buy an off the shlf 2.2 storker kit!! stick on a disco Tato, and go have fun!

yes, been done plenty times, but lowish boost pressure only, say tops 12 to 14 psi. If yours is a p90 head, these have a bigger comb chamber, that combined with dished pistons, gives a low compression ratio, lower the ratio the more boost it will take What is the block/head combo you have?, and? are pistons flat top or dished? you could use a stock injection manifold, with bigger injectors, a aftermarket ecu, ( BTW I have a brand new Autronic SM4 for sale!!!) hardest part is a turbo exhaust manifold, the stock cast iron ones are getting old, and can crack, better off geting one made up out of decentr thick wall steam pipe, 12 mm thick flanges, with brace supports to turbo, use longer studs at head, a block to underside of turbo manifold support would be an idea, bit of piping, a intercooler from say a 2J supra, ( surprise surprise, i have a couple here for sale too ), or a big kick arse front mount ( guess what, one of them here as well), and say a nice little GT28 roller turbo, ( and you guessed,it, one of these is here for sale as well !!! ) Umm, you do keep changing your mind about things, remember when you were here, I sugested a SR20DET package?? What about that, easy, simple cheap, balances the car, the purists will shudder. Dont forget, I'm interested in your old gearbox!!

Turbo 280ZX has a double PCB ECU, the non turbo just has a single circuit board. Turbos also had bigger injectors. As a Tarmac rally car, you are given freedoms in brakes, for safety, not like in Historic Prod Sports circuit racing, and you can run an aftermarket ECU, not like in Hysteric prod sports. If you really wanted to stick to stock Turbo twin board ECU, you would need to run bigger injectors, run an interuptor piggy back ecu from dizzy to stock ecu, also run an interruptor from the air temp sensor, the water temp sensor, and the low speed idle part of the circuitry from the AFM, if you were to run a more aggressive camshaft. the turbo housings A/R ratios could be changed, and exhaust is free from the first join after the cylinder head, ie dump pipe back This is all for Tarmac rally use, ie Targa Tas, Highh Country, Targa WA and Classic Adelaide. You cannot use a 280ZX in Historic prod Sports, as the cutoff year is the end of 1976. This is why the USA Spec 280Z gets into Historics ( same as a 260Z shell,) it has to run the stock engine as in a Aussie 280ZX, a heavy r200, and stock interior, as well as stock brakes, mine weighs in at 1125 kgs, and she rocks and rolls like a pig, compared to my Datsun Sports 2000, at 810 kgs!

Hmmm i'm curious, which is the Z car shop you are talking about. Some of us know who is reputable, and will sell things reasonably ok, but as is usual, it is buyer beware. For price indicated, hook up a starter motor and do comp checks, and some sort of document saying if on install you find it is rootard, you have recourse Engine details suggest a L28 rather than L20A Always thought one of the L28 turbo engines in a s130 2 seatwr, stripped and ligjtened, would make an interesting tarmac rally car, in unmodified class, or bare mods classes? It would not be accepted in a s30 body, as none were turbo from factory.

Ah yes, a smaller reducing port diameter, over the length of the intake runner, and into the port into the head, culminating into the quite small physical cubic millimetre area around the valve head, will aid in much higher air velocity, thus causing far superior atomisation of the fuel in the air mixture. The original designets did it like that for very good reason. We all come along and open the things right up to billy-o and stuff up the required high velocity airflow into the cylinder. Port matching should be done on both ends, a little step going in is fine, this helps swirl effect at wall surface on transition at each join. This is all old school well known stuff all done by old guys many years ago!

Pm'ed you With my offer to buy it! Not too fussed if it goes elsewhere!

Vote 1. For Simon, excellent result, and looks sweet, mucho s130 lovin!

Zac, not a problem! Biggest hassle is going uo and bringing it back! Ill take the missus for a bit of a holiday, i can see it now,,,"dear, why is the car trailer attached?"

This was up at my place couple weeks back, sounds quite nice, prob has a mild street cam fitted, idles nice and grumpy, extractors sounded nice, best of all when you left, and gave it a little bit of right foit, it echoed beautifully all up the valley! I smiled! Now if someone just wants the engine, i'd be interested in the gearbox, if it has to be separated.

Ah bugger just seen it, Rocky, a twelve hour turnaround drive, bugger. Id still be interested though, but the dollars are thin, fuel accom towing, sell it to that ebay bidder!!

Car location is where??? in central Qld, im in brisbane, and have the time and trailer to come get it,,,, maybe! If evilbay auction is a dud, ie the supposed "buyer"is a no show, pm me asap, i'll come take it off your hands. In cold hard light of day, this one is a parter, rust is unkown, and will always be more than anyone can see, was it a coastal car? it has no rego, it "might"get a rwc, history is unknown, its a heavy body with glass roof Without inspecting it, maybe a couple hundred, if it inspects well, could go to 800. Ill have it stripped in a day, shell goes to Sims scap metal, i just need a gearbox. A lot of mucking around on my part, but you at least get rid of it, and its remains get passed onto othets who can use them!

Contact at fault driver asap, ring him and tell him you will supply three quotes, offer to bypass HIS insurer if it is under his excess ( you going slow around a corner has farque all to do with him hitting you) if he wants to go through his insurer, he has to lodge a claim, tell him to do so asap and he has to ring ypu back with his claim number so you can start ball rolling re repairs. If he is NOT insured, then tell him you will send three quotes, he can choose which one to pay, he can pay repair shop direct, or pay you. And to be paid within 14 days, if not paid within, then write again advise you may seek legal action against him, and he will incur further legal costs Good luck small claims court is a bitch, dont bother going there Nsw vic qld no matter, same thing applies. Dunno without looking, could be a $1000 repair easy, bang goes his excess, its into tje insurers!