dat2kman

Cold hard folding cash, or ged da fargoutta here. Even bank cheques can be faked or fraudulent/modified. Caveat emptor - on both sides really. Sure I can't pay you in cash, I am on a oil rig on Mars! Well, tell the "buyer" to just take their time, you in no hurry, and their "agent"here in Australia can rock up to ypur place with cash, folding, otherwise, no sale!

Greg, simple, use my shed as the example, mad die has seen it, so she knows an extreme! Just tell her she is safe, it won't be like mine, close, but just a tiny bit smaller, by about, h, just tell her a few feet or so. She'll be happy then!

Ash, has that been historic log booked and cod'd yet! Much difficulty doing so down there? I am hearing of cost increases by CAMS, that would start to cause potential car owners to say "stuff it".

Lads, I can solve your "flat"spot issues. It's called standard gear ratios, and they are for regular daily driving duty, not performance! It will cost though!

Not a L18 or a L16, Any others will bolt on, the clutch plate diameter will be 225 mm for the zeds, but some were 200 mm diam.(l20b) Have a hunt around some wrecking yards, will prob need a light skim, screw in a gearbox mount bolt into back of engine, use big screwdriver to jam against ring gear, then use breaker bar with a bit of extension tube for levetage, they will be tight. You could reuse the bolts, not recommended, but for regular road usage, should be fine. If you require new, either Nissan parts, or ARP, i have a set of new ARP flywheel bolts avail, much stronger. Hey while at it, have a look around forums etc about info on taking a few kg of weight out the backside, will help engine rev up quicker, a little!

Probably the transition from idle/primary carb circuit to main/secondary circuit. Emulsion tubes could be mixing air fuel incorrectly relative to air demand by pistons, causing stumbling. I have similar issue, but with 55 mm DCOE webets, at around 4000 rpm, but once over, it is unleash hell all way to 8500 rpm. Meh, the price you pay i 'spose!

Dimitri, see in my above. I would contend that you are simply replacing an unable to be adjusted ecu for one that can be adjusted, just like a set of triple webers can have things adjusted along with a old type point dizzy, its jst that an aftermarket ecu does exactly same thing, nothing more. Oh sure a rev limiter, maybe launch control, ability to switch other things on an off, but these can be fitted and controlled manually. If msca say an aftermarket ecu is "modern" then triple webers should be classed the same! We can prove a s30 came with inject/ecu etc. What other injected cars could this be aligned too, that may compeye in Vic msca??

If msca rules say a L engined Z with triple weber as carbs is still a "classic" then it should then apply to a 260 or a 280 body is same, except for minor front end differences, but, yes same body, the USA 280, as we all know came with a single t/b on a log plenum. If a 240/260 is permitted triples, ie six butterflys, then as a 280 it too should be permitted six butterflys, ie itb's, along with a change of ecu to manage them, just like you change points dizzy, recurve for pergormance, and change fuel and air jetting within a Weber, same thing, in an ecu. It will tske just one of us to present a six x itb L engined Z with ecu to manage it all, to "test" their capability to accept, if so great, if not, then those tjat run msca should get off their asses and get very vocal, citing my above analogy. One thing, msca seem, as per last para, to run their own rulrs, so now, we have three sporting bodies, msca, cams and aasa, absolutely marvellous! And confusing! At least under marque or msca, YOU CAN run SAFE brakes, not like the ridiculous stupid idiocy that is the historics division of CAMS, they make us run stock cheesecutters,. I am getting fed up with replacing rotors every two meetings, hence why you dont see the blue 280 Sc car of mine that often. All i need is a quick change front end cimprising a rotor and caliper, that will swap for stock rotor and caliper, just for hysteric meetings. Im intending to run the blue Z at PI six hour relay in early August this year, but the following wedk is Winton Historics, so for that, it has to be stock brakes, but for PI anything goes. I have hete a full set of 300 zx tt, has anyone done those on a front?, but no mods to stubs, caliper mounts!! My2c worth!

Factory ecu is getting old, main issue is knowing what does what, the values of components, and which way you need to go to change things. In short, dont bother, instead try bigger injectors, and combine with variable resistors in the afm temp circuit, and the water temp circuit to clip the pulse rates. They work on group fire, by altering/reducing pulse amount with bigger injectors you can sort of alter fuel delivery, combine with a decent camshaft, good exhaust system, they can be made to work ok. I have stumbles in mine at approx 4000 rpm, but above that to 7800 it is all good. Other issue is the intake plenum flows different cfm air down each runner front to back, resulting in lean outs and burnt pistons. Intake needs to be airflowed and matched cfm per runner A decent fuel pressure reg helps too. Otherwise, just buy a aftermarket ecu,,,,,, i am selling a Autronic sm4, brand new, $2100

Interstingly, the 260 2+2 given similar mechanical performance enhancements, and a bit of emphasis on weight reductio, IS a better handling car on the track! AND in mid 1970's as a five seater touring car, was raced, sorry no, practiced and qualified at the Bathurst 1000 at Mt Panorame. The ONLY Z to do so. The S130's were run there in prod sports and gt as standard showroom, but not the big race, the 1000!

Unless Hip240 is asking about the three models in the S30 body, ie the injected 280 as sold in USA. From 75 on the 280 had the injection engine, again for emissions, as well it had 90 kgs of federal law crash bumpers, it became a slug, but still had the same HP as the earlier cars. Then in 79 the landbarge was introduced, S130. That delightfull plush red velour interior, pulled the women in! I find it fascinating that most owners here in Aus, into modding, the first thing they do is convert their S30 into a 280 with the engine coming out of a S130, so after all, they mustn't have been that bad!

Yes, a longy!

This ones nice and tight, teeth are in good cond, ratio is 3.9 perfect for fast tracks, long straights, economical cruising, suit the high hp cars! Complete r200 with the Nismo clutch pack played LSD centre. No driveshafts $1300 pick up westside Brisb Can package and freight for extra$

If enewon is after pics of chambets, pm me your email addy.

Gee, from February 2008 until now, long time between your first two posts! Did you end up getting a Z, and how did the Zoob SSS project go? I like to drill a small 5 mm hole in the surrounding flange of a thermostat, just in case they stick, also some thermos come with a little jiggler thingy, its surprising how a tiny bit of crud can block that. Thete is merit in keeping water flow rate down so that heat from block is more thouroghly transferred into the water, hence the quite small opening of a thermo, and we sometimes think we are smartypants by removing what the manufacturer went to great pains to work out whats best, in most instances.

Hi thete in Oregon! A very nice part of the US. Welcome to AusZCar, have a look at the cylinder head information page, it will tell you a little about the p79. The f54 blocks are , in my opinion, a good internal design. However a cam with the letter k has got me beat! Nissan usually marked them with mainly first few letters of the alphabet, i suppose having made so many cams, the stamps wore out, and they are up to K! Get it to a reputable camshop, get them to let ypu know what it lift, duration and lobe centre spacing is, and then research will indicate its usefullness. If it turns out to be a stock basic set of figures, while the shop has it, ask them then, to give it a bit of a regrind for you, so as to give you a cam that is a touch more aggresive. You'll need thicker lash caps to set it up correctly. Hey, if you could, jump onto our introductions page, let us know a bit about what ypu have, and a few pics as well. Good Zedding!

Dimitri! Not a problem, just pop down to the Quik- E - Mart all the time, Apu, the shop owner just loves it, 'cos the noise brings in heaps of customets for hotdogs! I get better economy then, 1 litre per round trip of approx 2 k, Only 'cos of my interesting driveway, Lurch has seen it!

Bot? Like the american NHL NFL jersey/jumper flogger, tjat registeted this morning, and is now gone! I dunno, is it too easy to register and get postong? My L28 using stock injection setup, in the race car gets around 1.7 litres per lap at EC and same at PI, Bathurst it was doing approx 2.2 litres, mostly wide open, and on avgas , using vl commo turbo injects

Heck of a lot of info over on Pulsar ( nissan) forum, and no, not cheap, maximum dollar extraction in play. The rules and supp regs need carefull reading, as i see it, each doctrine will cost $x times no of items, equals Z We cant do everything, its basicalky a get money in, get spectators paying in excersise, all because the current crop of ARC championship cars are as boring as bat doodoo, organisets are going all out to market and pull in people, but the " mai"event will be round 1 of the ARC. We will be finabcially backing it. I ran as an invited car at the WRC/ARC at Coffs in 2011, if it wasnt for the grassroots giys running the event would fold, but, the grass roots giys get diddlysquat for their efforts, as main focus is on WRC and ARC some 30 cars, the rest was some 70 to support the 30 So, Luvemfast, yes it is expensive to play. Someone else have a go at working out costs, my brain hurys!

Farrgit, im bringing the mighty 120Y. Down!! Clean up big time!

Ahem! Will this end up like Karma?

Oh, i just get carried away with all these model numbers, so confusing! Yeah, some pics of one of these classics would be nice, spread some horizons out there, gee, i know i feel loved on here with a 120y, so it cant be all bad! Btw the rest of car has gone to the crushers, Sims Metal.

Hey Aub, hetes the thing, i have a pair of small bottles, very much out of date, totally empty, i would like a "freindly"plumber to give me his full ones, take these empties, i pay him for his trouble and gas. I cbf having an account when they charge annual fees, these two ate now 10 years old, i dont use much gases. Same gors for TIG gas bottle, the tiny amount i need argon for, ie im not a full blown commetcial workshop, same, cbf an account. I get no tax deductions, not operate a business, just a home hobby, like pretty much all of us. If the gas companies opetated on basis of a charge for a fill, and an extra once off to "buy" a bottle, instead of their rip off monthly fees per bottle, plus account keeping fees etc, then, i reckon plenty more of us would be getting tig weldets, oxy acet kits. Yeah, the tiny bottles are useless, you crack them, and you get one use only, very xpensive eay, and dont give me no lip about i can afford it, its the jolly principle f the thing. brad Garvice, what model did you get from Token, their website is a dream, i see they have the cbt pi Ot arc jobby at around the 700, also a multi 3 in 1 cutter, arc and tig for 800, badic duty cycles, but for us hobby guys, pretty good!

Gearbox filler plug is on rhs, original from 260 two seatwr, , box should be the desirable 2.9 first gear ratio set, as opposed to a 3.3 or a 3.5 first gear. Yes, worth the asking of $500. Earlier 240 z boxes had same closer ratios, as well as the proper sports cars, the Datsun SR 311's! Next better thing is one of the close ratio gearsets i can get in, first gear is either 2.4 or 2.6 depending on the input drive/driven ratio that is in a std box

Thinking off getting a plasma cutter, anyone hete used, using, played with, or seen in action. Main use is on car body, brackets for suspensions, modding items. Running oxy acet atm, bottles are empty, and well out of date, rest of kit is still good, i dont have account with gas suppliers, use a freindly plumber to get fresh bottles, its all a p,i,a,. Done a little reading up, checked out evilbay, local tradetools are double the egay price like for like. Dont eant full on monsta industrial, ala welding workshop type, just something portable ie 20 kgs weight Who's playing?