Riceburner

Looks great Mark. I know what you mean with the polished cover, it's a lot of extra up keep. Benefit of the matt black is extra heat rejection, supposedly.

They're from the 60's I believe Gordon . Nah, these are of 98 model gsxr Suzuki and I'm actually not sure when they started making this type. It would be interesting to see what the MSCA said.... Would that mean new weber dcoe's or OCR's would be classed modern too?

We have twins Twin sets of four............ Flat CR's anyone I've got new jets on the way and will be starting off with these settings 185mains, 45 pilot, 200 main air, 100 pilot air, 2turns out on fuel mix srcew, Needle on third clip. Let the fun begin!

Ah ok, was a guessing either bridgey or dunlop. Wheels look very good, whats your opinion on the finish quality?

Can you get 225 semi's in 15" in anything else besides yoki's? I thought the widest bridgestone did was 205/15

Stiva's running hub spacers with the shakotan's. I'm not sure if it was to fill the flares or to stop wheels/tyres hitting spring perches, but It also cause clearance problems when turning

Thanks. Looking great so far!

Really Jason, What sort of setting would you expect when running 41mm chokes?

Are these plates exactly the same and stamped to suit your chassis or is that part DIY? Mine is Jap do they have them?

Mig is a little different to oxy/act, I'm good at that but has taken a while to get the hang of mig. I have a gasless unit and compared to the sheilded unit I have used it is a lot harder to get a good consistent weld (for me anyway). 'D' size is about knee height, 'E' size is about chest height and is the one you want. IMO basic mechanical repairs for a stock car are most of the time not super difficult, but paint/panel/bodywork is a very hard thing to master and unless it's done very well is easy to pick up faults. You'll be very good by the end of the build, I'm looking foward to the progress

Decoy, your post got me to do a heap more searching and cross refrencing of my current jet sizing vs. similar jet sizing per cubic capacity I've reviewed the sizings from the ducatti... main air jet 200, float height, needle clip 3# are all very close to current set up. They don't mention pilot air cause they use an aftermarket adjustable screw (available at $20ea.), I have 100# pilot air in both the CV's and FCR41's so will stick with those too. Because the pilot/slow jet is so big at 60 they only have the mix screw at 3/4 turn, so this with the accel pump could be masking the true tune which is why they use 155mains. I found a few other FCR41 setups with similar cubic capacity to my worked L29 running on average 185mains, 45 or 48 pilots, 200 main air, 100 pilot air, 2 turns on mix screw and the needle on the third clip. This will probably be a good starting point that will run fairly well but won't have huge top end I suspect. Time will tell, stay tuned.

Can't beat the stacked muffler, seems to be a really tidy job and looks great too. I'll be doing the same in twin 60mm. Can you post a vid of the exhaust at idle and revving? what length are the resonators?

Thanks David, with the amount of emails I'm sending I'll have to get a few good ideas. Lol

Seems small compared to the current setup and I would hope the FCR's will flow better, hopefully a good start point though Would a weber or mikuni setup with 40-41mm chokes be more comparable, maybe jetting sizes from this type of setup would be close to the mark? The FCR's should flow better than weber or mikuni as the only restriction at WOT is the needle...... It all gets confusing! Lol

1 1/16th master.... Does that size even exist? I run s12+8 vented and R31 rears on a 15/16 and it performs faultlessly on road and on race track, with less pedal travel than a new car. You'd want to be Arnold schwarzenegger to push that 1 1/16th brake pedal hard

Thanks for the info so far guys there is some helpful bits there Tuning isn't a problem as I have an air fuel meter but I was hoping to get a really good starting point by finding jetting specifically for the 'L' series motor. The slides each have 4 rollers on them to make operation silky smooth and as they are fixed to the shaft a throttle return spring will snap them closed. The old carbs off a cbr1100xx had 150-160 mains from the factory, I've gone through nine jet changes and various other mods to end up with approx 220 mains now so it can be fairly time consuming. Amazingly they did run straight away at that size with no coughing or splutters, just didn't have much grunt. I hope the Fcr's are as easy! With the Fcr's having acc pumps i thought it will be harder to tune as the extra squirt of fuel when opening the throttle may hide the true tune I'll shoot Alan a pm, hopefully he has some specific jetting info or knows someone who does.

Hmmmmm yeah thats kinda what I thought. Might be a silly question but would a bike tuning shop only have a single wheel dyno? Lol.

Sorry I should've put in the full name Keihin FCR41's.....They are flat slide carbs, no throttle shaft or butterfly so the slide is connected to a common shaft in the top of the carb. Very common on race bikes. Currently I have 220 or 230 mains in the 42mm Keihin VP on the car, but these are vacuum slide operated and also have a butterfly similar to su's. The FCR's have an accelerator pump on each set.

As you know I'm going the FCR41 conversion on my car, Just wondering if anyone knows of it being done before and what sort of jetting will be a good starting point? I've done heaps of searching with not much luck, seems likes it's done a little in japan.

I remember having the same problem.... Laying under the car thinking WTF As Jason said, I just put the whole new speedo cog/body into the gearbox and marked where groove needed to be, then cut the groove and installed.

Hehehe, here I was thinking after 11-12yrs I had bait of knowledge on the Z...... Taken back to school again! Thanks, I'll give it a go.

That's part of the issue, I run penrite LSD oil and I'm forever cleaning the case after races as it has oil on it. I thought it was getting hot and expanding... I removed the breather and cleaned on several occasions, but the mess continues. I drive to all my races so trying to be fast and very reliable is my biggest goal

Yep that's exactly what it looked like. I did find that site but only while searching broken stub axles Epic build by the way, damn!

Hey Ben, I was driving on the street, took off slowly from a set of lights shifted into second and gave it a little but not heaps then 'boom, duka duka duka duka' until I rolled into the side street. Broke right at the point where the thread becomes splines, the companion flange was flying around on the end of the drive shaft. Lucky I had disc rear end otherwise the whole wheel could come of I think. I've done no more than 2-3 very small burnouts since I got the car, it's been tracked a fair bit but no standing starts so I was surprised that it happened. Just glad I was close to home. Btw, sorry for the hijack Alan. Hope it's all relevant/valuable info

After snapping my 240z stubs I'd say definately go with the 260z type, it could save more damage/work down the track.