fufu

I'm agreeing with Lurch and Ash on this matter. The best bang for buck under these circumstances is to bore it out. Stroking it would just be a waste of money and especially it being a street-use vehicle it would also be wasted. I'm quite certain, to go with the n42 head bored out and match ported with a 89mm bored bottom to accommodate flat pistons to get a good compression of around 10.5:1 and hopefully street-able with pump fuel.

I'm getting evil thoughts Ash. Maybe the devil has possessed me. how about a 3mm overbore = 2950cc = 3.0L power? lol

Just got off the phone with the engine builder. It doesn't look good, the bottom end is definitely overheated and warped. It will need to be bored. new pistons as well. God dammit... its going to cost me a fortune. I guess its time to start considering boring options. I've also been recommended a 72 degree cam just for more street-able use which it will be eventually used for. As for the water pump, I bought one at the same time I bought my car as the seller, of the vehicle, said the water pump was gone, but it clearly wasn't. So I've had a spare since the start. A good time to throw it in. An electrical one would definitely be awesome but I think its overkill for my application.

Just got back from Engine Action. They've finally cracked my engine open and had a play around. Some bad news. They have a slight feeling the bottom-end has had some overheating. The water pump only has 1 fin intact. Other things they've made to my attention is the E30 will yield a higher compression ratio and could be bored out to that of the N42 inlet and outlet. So I've instructed them to stick with the E30. Reason for the higher compression is that the compression chamber is more flush/flat compared to the N42 which is a dish type. So if I could get the same inlet and outlet size as the N42, it would be a wicked head. They've also instructed me to look into cams as they can start doing the springs and all that now. Any recommendations? I'm thinking a 74 degree. Also is it worth spending the money to get a high volume oil pump? *edit* spoke with the guys at stewart wilkins and they reckon standard is fine. I'm very noob at this. Your guidance is much appreciated. Turns out its going be quite costly in the end.

I bought mine via datsunspirit. Back when we had some strength in the dollar. I compared it to the original ones that came with the car and were identical but in chrome which i was quite glad to hear. Here is a link: http://store.datsunspirit.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=45

I think if you dig deep enough there's a thread about ADR and how the 240z actually didn't have any regulations for the fender mirrors. In fact some of the series 1 and 2 AUDM, 240z actually came with fender mirrors. As far as 260Z are concerned, I'm not to familiar with the laws there.

Pricing wasn't that surprising. only a kidney You might want to message Nzeder he has a set of 16" wats so he should get access to the weights information quite easily.

Don't get your hopes up too high guys. Miki quoted me AU$2700.00 prior to the peak of the yen just over a year ago. I then found Eiji from Datsunspirit which decreased their price to 2000 at one point and I was pretty keen on getting it through him as AUD was sitting at 0.95 to the USD. I then got persuaded by a friend to buy it direct, very bad decision as I'm still waiting over 6 months and over 3 different Watanabe sets as they keep stuffing up the order. Price I ended up paying was $1700AUD. once again prior to the economic downturn. I would be expecting to pay anywhere above $3000 now for a set. I'd be quite interested to see what the price is now.

:'( And another heads to Sydney.

Little bit of an update. The people over at Engine Action have just picked up my engine. I dropped off the N42 head there this morning. Did a small smack test on it, to find out if it was any good, whilst I was there, and it scored 135 which apparently is quite good. They also stated that an RB30 head would be getting around 137. Ash you sold me an excellent head. So basically what they'll do for the moment is do an overall check. They'll do mostly head work this time as I don't really want to work on the bottom end any time soon. Things they'll do: - Port and Polish - Port matched to extractors and intake manifold - New Valves - New Retainers Won't do new springs as I'll wait and consider what cams I wish to put in. - Cleanup - Overall pressure test - Internal Engine Check Hope that's enough to get me sorted for now. Some other things I've been doing: - Started researching about Webers. - Followed Ash's advice and blasted the webers with some carby cleaner, freed up a lot of the parts. - Had a crack at dismantling one. Found it quite easy, I believe dismantling a laptop is harder and I do that on a daily basis. Also found out the jets are clogged. - Decided I should get my hands on a ultrasonic cleaner and rebuild kits, to proceed further. *Note I will document the rebuild. Then we'll have covered Mikuni's (Mikuni's rebuild covered by Luvemfast) and webers for our knowledge documents.

Update: Jimmy no longer works at Fulcrum. Whiteline no longer make these parts. "Selby's" is the manufacturer for these sway bars . I just called them up and basically they use to work for Whiteline and now they've made their own company which deals with sway bars which no longer are produced by Whiteline. To get your hands on these go to your nearest Pedders and order. So eg. the old whiteline code is BDF7 and BDR30 = SDF7 and SDR30 S for for their company name D for Datsun F for front R for rear. followed by the model number.

Anyone got the part number for the K&N breather filter?

Hi guys, recently I've been searching for after market parts and thought I'd start a thread that would help others. This is due to the fact that some parts are getting scarce and thus manufacturers are starting to remove the part numbers from their catalogue. *Disclaimer: This list is for compilation purposes. Please confirm model with manufacturer and also confirm with an expert if it fits your application. I take no sole responsibility for misinformed purchases. Feel free to post and I'll add to this list. I'll compile it. If possible can we get this thread stickied? Whiteline Sway Bars[240Z] Front HD: BDF7 Discontinued Whiteline Sway Bars[240Z] Rear HD: BDR30 Discontinued Whiteline Sway Bars[280ZX] Rear HD: BNR5 Discontinued Whiteline Sway Bars[260Z] Front HD (Blade Adjustible): BDF7Z Discontinued Whiteline Sway Bars[260Z] Front HD: BDF7 Discontinued Whiteline Sway Bars[260Z] Rear HD (Blade Adjustible): BDR20Z Discontinued Whiteline Sway Bars[260Z] Rear HD 70-73 without OE sway bar: BDR30 Discontinued Whiteline Sway Bars[260Z] Rear HD 70-74 with centre dip: BDR7 Discontinued Whiteline Sway Bars[260Z] Rear HD 74-79 without centre dip: BDR20 Discontinued K&N Oil Filter (all L6 series engine): HP-3001 k&N Air Filter[240Z] (oval shape for original air boxes): E-2910 k&N Air Filter[260Z] (oval shape for original air boxes): E-2900 k&N Air Filter[280ZX]: E-2880 Whiteline Strut Bar[260Z] Rear: KSB609 Cusco Strut Brace Front AS model: 246 510A Cusco Strut Brace Rear (2 seater only) AS model: 246 511A Cusco Strut Brace Front OS model: 246 540A Cusco Strut Brace Rear (2 seater only) OS model: 246 541A Cusco Pillow Ball Upper Mount (Non-Adjustible) [240Z]: 246 411 A70 Cusco Roll Cage (2 seater only) 4 point type: 246 270 C20 (steel) Cusco Roll Cage (2 seater only) 5 point type: 246 270 D20 (steel) Cusco Roll Cage (2 seater only) 5 point type: 246 261 D (chromoly) Cusco Roll Cage (2 seater only) 6 point type (avoids dash): 246 270 E20 (steel) Cusco Roll Cage (2 seater only) 6 point type (avoids dash): 246 261 E (chromoly) Cusco Roll Cage (2 seater only) 7 point type (avoids dash): 246 270 F20 (steel) Cusco Roll Cage (2 seater only) 7 point type (avoids dash): 246 261 F (chromoly) Cusco Roll Cage (2 seater only) 8 point type (avoids dash): 246 270 G20 (steel) Cusco Roll Cage (2 seater only) 8 point type (avoids dash): 246 261 G (chromoly) Wasp Tie Rods: WTE860L/R ARP Head stud kit: 202-4206 Ryco Tall oil filter: Z115 Rear Wheel Bearings: Outer Bearing B31Z-16C4 Inner Bearing RLS10-T-C4 Seal 43232 E4100

Very nice, How did you get the insides so clean, even the corners are clean? Throttle body cleaner? Or did you wack the whole thing into the ultrasonic

Hi guys, I'm after a light/indicator/wiper controls for the steering stalk. Some details about my car not sure if it will be relevant. Datsun 1971 240Z.

I've just handed my car off to Stef who will be helping me finish her off in Geelong. I previously thought it was going to be a simple few tasks which quickly built to a list of over 50 items which is out of scope in most regards what i had advertised it to be in the business section of this forum. I have to apologise to those which i had contacted previously in regards to finishing the Zed off, i didn't mean to fool around and that i didn't want to hand the car over and forward you a list of 50 items. It was very much out of scope on my part. So my humblest apologies to Dimitri and Ben. I'm looking ahead now for the project. I've sourced a N42 head from a fellow member. Which I'll be picking up soon. Many of you will know him if you are south of the border(garage filled with zed parts and a few zeds). His name corresponds to his street name (I found that so ironic and quite a good notion to have a chuckle about). I'll have pics up shortly.

I know the feeling. I was given a really harsh examiner at sunshine vicroads. If you guys go there his an old chap whose bold and wears glasses and has that forwarded looking between the gap of the top of the glasses look. He made me do a 40 minute drive. Tested me on not 1 but all 3 items. U-turn, parallel park and 3-point turn. After that he just passed me. My twin brother on the other hand was speeding through a 40 school zone and got in excess of 95% and he had a hot chick for his examiner, not to mention he only had to do parallel park and a 20 minute drive. Examiners aren't standardised which is a craphole, if they are feeling shit that day... be sure to expect a fail. That being said I too experienced this at Honda bike license tester. I had 2 examiners mark me whilst my brother only had 1. I feel that just overkills the nerves. Bloody testing people under different scenarios is a bit unfair. Yep, i failed that test and had to pay the stupid $70 for a resit.

Another rant. in 2007 cars sold in australia were in excess of 1 000 000. If local companies think they can sell cars like they sold in 2007, they are dreaming. Thats like 1 out of 22 people you see on the street bought a new car that year! My god and they have high hopes on the fact that they can survive. Its great to be a patriot and buy Australian. But we have to also consider other countries aspects to how they manufacture products. Japan has passion and thus creating a quality car. Their goal is to spend $1 to produce $10 and they are quite spot on. I don't even think Holden or Ford could even match that and would be quite certain to say they would be spending $9 to get $1. Would you settle for less income? I doubt it, and that reflects any organisations profit margin (- ongoing cost). Hate to say it but its our way of life that does affect some organisations. Automotive being one. Would you settle for a job in a manufacturing line? Knowing true well, you may be more educated and worthy of working somewhere else and getting paid more. HELL heres another shitty point. Would you settle for a job in a manufacturing line when the DOLL pays you nearly as much?

"The day a 39 year old 240Z puts them to shame..." LoL Dimitri. The funny thing is, they'll use one of 5 million reasons to why they lost as well. Even if you beat them 3 times straight.

SNAP CRACKLE POP!!! God damn the government and their vehicle tax crap just to save the Australian vehicle industry. The amount of technology and engineering that goes into over seas cars totally tramples over what an Australian produced car gives. You know what i say. "Let them burn". If they are struggling now even with a safety net then there's no use in letting them live. Start comparing prices. If Australia didn't have such an excessive tax on import vehicles we'd be looking at pretty dirt cheap BMWs and Mercedes and luxury cars worth buying in comparison to the price now for the top of the range Holden or Ford. Big Top Gear fan. It's like what Jeremy Clarkson suggested. Which would you prefer? a M3 or a Holden? I'd go with the M3. Technology advanced to triumph over what little a Holden (an engine + gearbox + super simplicity but we'll charge a shitload [apple scheme]) is.

ummm are those fans mounted backwards? don't we want pull fans at the back and push fans at the front?

HI! Any plans for this bad girl? or is it going be a good girl?

Great info guys. Definitely searching for a N42 head now. Might get the ports matched for the triple webbers and the extractors I have stored here just in advance.

Hi, I think its best to wire it up for now. I think its just a loop with the front indicators. Can anyone confirm this?

UGYAAAA! Trust me to jump at an opportunity. As you all may know I bought a L28 from Evgeny a while back. Turns out its a E30/F54. Doesn't looks so grand now. Even with Triples I don't think it would be so flash. Only recently I've started to get focused into this. Mainly because a certain man has "planted seeds" into my head to get everything done now rather then later.