fufu

Hello all, Sorry I've been away for so long. Well the last few months i got really depressed with the car not working and i pretty much let it sit there at the panel beaters for the whole time. Not doing anything. After all the fair lady was giving me the attitude so i thought i'd give it some space, time away you could say. Anyways my mechanic/auto-electrician friend just came back from his trip to J-land and decided to swing by to have a look at it today. After about an hour. I'm finally glad to say that "IT'S ALIVE". I thought i'd share my findings since no one has covered this problem before. If you've been following this thread and other threads I've posted, you would understand that i had an issue with the "common fuse" continuously blowing. After explaining to my auto-electrician friend for about 15 minutes on what I've tested and what happens. He looked at the problem head on and gave me this advise... "why don't you just get rid of it". So we did, pulled the blue connecting plug from the back. Tried starting the car for about a minute. Now this part you may find a bit silly on my part.. Being away from the zed so long... i forgot about the choke. ROFL! So here i am stomping on the accelerator and thinking why it isn't starting for like a minute straight. Then realising the choke and telling every bystander that i forgot the choke. Upon activating the choke it started straight away. Basically the common fuse isn't really necessary it is mainly for the alternator and taps into every circuit in the car as a sort of backup/bypass highway. So if you ever have a problem with it. Just disconnect it. To make a safety measure, I'm going to create a fusible link to the alternator as a replacement backup for the common fuse no longer being available. Tomorrow my plan is the bring her home and start on the interior re-assembly. I'll be leaving the dash out to make the manual conversion easier for me. That's all folks.

Hi Zedevan, sorry can you clarify "mini colour". Sorry i'm not to technical on the terminology. Will try that out tomorrow. Cheers. Any advise given now is a stab for me to try. I've run out of ideas and am waiting on a friend whose currently in Japan to get back within the next 2 weeks to do the auto-electrician for me. Fu

Hi guys, I spotted this on another forum and wondered where to get it... then i found out on ebay. Anyhow its automotive artwork and probably would look fantastic on a wall that needed a bit of sprucing up. Link to ebay store: http://stores.ebay.com.au/SAD-ART_W0QQ_trksidZp284.m184QQ_trkparmsZalgo%3DDR%26its%3DS%252BI%252BSS%26itu%3DISS%252BUCI%252BSI%26otn%3D4 zed: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/HardBoard-Painting-Datsun-240z-V6-Retro-Car-Not-Poster_W0QQitemZ260292358505QQihZ016QQcategoryZ60437QQtcZphotoQQcmdZViewItem 510: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/HardBoard-Painting-Datsun-510-sss-Classic-Retro-Car_W0QQitemZ260291070342QQihZ016QQcategoryZ60437QQtcZphotoQQcmdZViewItem ae86: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/HardBoard-Painting-Toyota-Corolla-AE86-4A-GE-Not-Poster_W0QQitemZ260291065226QQihZ016QQcategoryZ60437QQtcZphotoQQcmdZViewItem Apparently you can do this in photoshop and make it inverted and get it printed on A0 at your local harvey norman to get a similar art piece.

God, missed you when you were down in Melbourne. I'm really glad i could help you out. What started was a simple stroll to see a L28, turned out to be a extensive analysis on a zed. But it was all fun and gave me insight to other things that i needed to know about the car. Sounds like a memorable journey. Good luck and best wishes with the Zed.

I won't be going there anytime soon, kinda giving the gal (the Zed) a little space since its giving me the silent treatment . They are calling a auto-electrician so when i get the details on when its booked in i'll let you know. Because more then likely they'll be calling me to grab the keys and open the old factory up for the auto-electrician. Your car looks to be complete. Except the flares haven't been done. Your colour looks a bit funny under low light. Did you give them a colour code to do it by? I've yet to see the car under proper lighting.

Cheers, Luis Do you know they've moved factories? I have to go to the new factory every time and grab the key and drive back to their old factory to work on the car.

Hi guys, has anyone got a picture of their battery? just a picture with the battery connected up in the engine bay. I've got the 2 (1 starter, 1 ground) connected up to the negative and I've also got the thick fusible link hooked up to the positive. Is this correct? I posted this problem on the web and it appears i may have my battery hooked up the wrong way around according to them. If anyone could email their pics to me at this email address: fuscanonline@hotmail.com much appreciated. *Edit* it could be like my rear disc conversion, simplest things could solve the problem. In the rear disc conversion the calipers were on opposite sides making the nipple at the bottom.

You can thank me for leaking the news to hybridz, i left little clues and people were like... "HOW WHERE" so i led them to this post. I hope you didn't mind Woza.

Utter failure today. Still popping fuses. However i think its my old rusty alternator thats the culprit. Does anyone know how i can test it? The auto-electrician guy said... i should try turning the car on without having the white/red cable plugged into the back of the alternator. So i'm thinking about giving that a go tomorrow. Upon closer inspection, the alternator has seen better days. A alternator point was really corroded upon further inspection, hidden away by the protector cap. On the other hand i did do the volt/fuel gauge conversion... i don't know if it works yet... its pretty much a straight swap using the existing harness. I also did the temp/pressure gauge, exact same process, using the same existing harness. Tomorrow i'll test the alternator and also install a later model clock, see if its a straight swap like the other two gauges. *EDIT* some more information about the problem i'm facing... When i unplug the... big white/red cable it still pops. However if i unplug the corresponding "common fuse" opposite cable to that of the white/red which is the black cable... it doesn't pop the fuse, upon i connect the battery. This black cable runs out towards the engine bay... as I've tried disconnecting it at where the inner dash harness meets the engine harness. Once again this... doesn't pop the fuse. Following this black cable(really thick/big) out to the engine bay leads me to many places.

Mike, you wouldn't be asian background would ya? I get that convo all the time... the "why did you spend so much money on a car that doesn't work" "how much more money are you going to throw into it before you can use it" etc... etc..

That's a definate good point for me to look at. Problem is i have a 240z gauge and i also have a spare 260z gauge. Is this the same scenario as you? The big white and red cable won't have a spot free as well. I think this is what your refering too. So just find a way to bolt them together. I'll try temporary GAFFA TAPE (god's miracle bandage for cars). *EDIT* i just read your personal desc and it says 240z lol... that answers my dilemma as its exactly the same problem then. I'll have a shot at it tomorrow. Fingers crossed God damn the devil... why does it have to be a pain in the arse Also a quick question to paul, is everything plug and play? as in if i remove the cables from the 240z fuel/amp gauge and transplant them in the same position to the volt/fuel 260z gauge, that would work right? I think its just 3 cables. Then slam the 2 white/red cables together and use a bolt and nut to secure it and some duct tape. I also found this writeup on how to get the volt metre to work with the amp wiring in the 240z. However the writeup was written with an alternator upgrade. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=106163&highlight=amp+volt+conversion Essentially the steps are: connect the white/red big cable to the black - red sleeved cabled at the back of the volt metre, the other black cable goes to a grounding point. That's it.

ok, did a lot of cleaning today to the car. Cleaned all the ground points, cleaned all the sockets for the wiring harness, a lot were clogged with dirt and dust. Cleaned the alternator points and all electrical points in the engine bay. Cleaned that small "mini starter" thing, above the starter where the power goes through. Result... still the same... still blows that "common" fuse. I guess i'll call the auto-electrician tomorrow, after i try changing the amp gauge.

do you think his a member of auszcar? because... the starting price has now been changed to 7.5k, i still reckon he hasn't changed the reserve though.

Hi guys, Just to inform you of a new ebay listing. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/NISSAN-DATSUN-240z_W0QQitemZ160281284155QQihZ006QQcategoryZ130628QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem ebay item number: 160281284155

Thanks Dimitri, Yea its the big cable with the white and red. My amp gauge is faulty, incorrect reading? or there's no power going to the unit because the fuel level indicator didn't work either, since day 1. However the car worked prior to dropping it off at the panel beaters. I think there's a lot of dust in the alternator because... the hood has been opened since day 1. To be honest it looks like the alternator bought a ski jacket, a white jacket... a thick layer of dust. It's specifically damp dust too.

Hi guys, My "common" fuse in the inner cabin keeps blowing, just requesting information on what items would be connected to this fuse? Some more information: The fuse blows the moment the battery is connected up. Would dusty wiring cause this? As I've had the wire exposed during the restoration process. Results of the blow, doesn't let me do anything really with the car. Doesn't start, doesn't crank, no rear brake lights. The only thing i believe that works is... the engine lamp. Some extra information: I've had all bulbs changed with corresponding designs. Also had the H4 bulbs done but... the switch is off, so i believe this isn't the problem. I'll try dusting it all up from tip to end with a brush tomorrow hoping it might be the dust. Also a little bit of sand paper to clean up a bit of the rusty circuits.

80k would get you a replica reventon from US with the real lambo engine. Almost identical to the real thing. http://www.superreplicaslamborghini.com/superreplicascontent/superreplicasarticles/lamborghini-cars.html

Hi, your second link is incomplete. It's been shortened by your browser. You need to have the full link showing before you copy and paste. as you can see.... http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBr...3d801d1d80.jsp, the "..." is the automatic webaddress shortener. Please replace the link with the full link. Otherwise it won't work.

That's unappealing to here there MaxZmus. Spoiler for my project... wheel importer company screwed up the order and ordered 5 studs rather then 4 studs. So they gave me a discount... $1X00. muhahahha, i'm gonna go quiet on JDMST as well. I want to just pop at a meet and surprise everyone and then do a massive thread update to make everyone go ballistic. Of course i'll leave good teasers along the way ROFL... blurred photoshop images of a barely recognizable car. Sure you don't want to do the flares at a later date?

same here, i have a 1971 240z which had fender mirrors and no indicators on the fenders.

I'm fairly sure the kit from MSA is the maxima caliper rear disc conversion. Beware. You could end up like me if you purchase those. I'm certain what i bought was a Stage 2 rear conversion kit which MSA sells.

I hope so, its actually dependent on the brake bracket. I was reading somewhere either S13 caliper or the S2 280zx but not really confirming articles that i've read. More along the lines of... it could or it should. But nothing hard evidence. wish my luck i will find out shortly. I also had the clips ordered and a spare set of brake pads as well. It's not all that bad i guess. To get the brake pads it would cost me about 60 AUD to get sent to my door. It's just the wait time of not being able to have things available to me that worries me about this conversion. Anyways i hope my misfortune guides others on what to do or what not to do.

Yea, I also ordered the parts it cost 100 bucks including shipping to get the brake guide clips to get sent to me. If you do get a brake conversion kit from US, make sure you don't lose a clip like I did, but all together the benefits of the 280zx caliper is a lot better. You benefit from bigger pistons which if you do the 4 x4 hilux fronts it does seem to balance out the braking power. Don't buy from ebay user "Tinmonk" he literally provides no support for his products (Rear Disc Conversion Kit). Lesson learnt. I'll check into that. I have high hopes that... dependent on the rotor size that you mentioned will give me the answer to the caliper that will fit and bolt on. I believe i have the flat type caliper bracket. As the picture that Lurch pointed me too looked a bit high. This was the kit i bought from Ebay. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-240Z-260Z-280Z-rear-disc-brake-kit_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1638Q2em122QQcategoryZ42614QQihZ008QQitemZ180283592522QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD2V You can see the bracket doesn't give much height out for the brake caliper. But I'll find out about the rotor size and hopefully that will help or that ebay seller will reply to my 2 dozen emails.

Cheers mate, I'm looking into this because... as you may have seen in my projects page. I did the rear disc conversion, however the kit i used, contained the 85-86 maxima calipers. These are impossible to source parts locally for. All brake components and even the pads need to be ordered from US. I'm looking into replacing them with 280zx rear calipers. Trying to find out which one uses the 85-86 maxima caliper mounting bracket.