Scando

Love this car, great to see it will be on the track soon. What events do you plan to run with it?

Agree with what Lurch has said above. I prefer a little toe out on the front rather than toe in but given the care feels unstable at the moment, the toe in should be better. The only thing I will add is to do one step at a time so you know the difference each change made. Start with the alignment setting and see how it feels. If that doesn't fix it, move on to the springs and shocks.

I'm running them with 330mm 2 piece DBA rotors (I think for an STI from memory) on custom hats. A mate made the hats and dog bones for me which kept the cost of the conversion very reasonable. Paying full price for the machine work would blow the cost out a bit.

Thanks Gav, it's a lot of work but all worthwhile My wife has been doing her masters of teaching at the same time so it's been a very busy household. Her last exam is in a weeks time so I'm looking forward to having a bit more spare time.........A least until no. 2 arrives later in the year!

Hi Mick, I hadn't thought of an oil accumulator. I reckon I'll just see how it goes for a start, hopefully 6.5L should be enough, the old L28 survived a lot of racing with only 4L! I'll probably log the oil pressure the first few times I take it out and see how it looks, might be an option if it looks like the pressure is dropping off anywhere, thanks. I've also got the rear drain/vent. It's funny how Nissan built the L series with a crank case vent but decided it wasn't necessary on the RB.

The car is looking amazing Scott, love the colour!

The thread about lack of content made me realise how slack I've been. Since my last update we've had a daughter and she's now over 2, which also has a bit to do with the lack of posts The engine is mounted, plumbed in and just awaiting wiring. A mate (SBF Fabrications) modified a patrol sump for me to make it 6.5 litres with wings and a gate. It was a bit of a battle to get enough volume in the sump with the engine sitting so low but I'm happy with what we came up with. We have vented the sump to both the head and the catch can to try and relieve a lot of the oil issues RB's have on the track. We also fitted a resticter in one oil feed and blocked off the other, and enlarged the oil returns as per the guidelines on the SAU forum. I ordered a CRS gearbox mount and it was complete rubbish so we came up with our own desing which I'm much happier with. It uses the strength in the tunnel where the original mounting points are rather than the flimsy floorpan and chassis rails that the CRS mount uses. We also now have room for the exhaust which the CRS mount seems to neglect! Funds were running short and we've never built an RB before or an engine for E85. So we decided to do a throw together out of 2nd hand bits to see if everything works the way we think it will. The bottom end uses the standard RB30 crank and rods with RB25 pistons and the block decked 30 thou to bring the pistons back up flush with the block. This will give me a compression ratio of around 9.5:1 which is what I was after. We threw in new bearings and rings to freshen it up a little. The head is all standard RB26 with standard cams, freshened up with new valve guides, etc. For the fuel system I've used a cheap E85 compatible lift pump, new larger hard lines and braided teflon lines everywhere else. I've used a Magnaflow pressure pump and reg with ID1000 injectors in a Sard rail. I've used my old GT35R turbo with a 1.00 a/r twin scroll housing on a cheap manifold just to get it going. If it doesn't crack then I'll probably stick with it. Using a Tial 60mm wastegate to make sure we don't have over boosting issues like we did with this turbo on the L28. We have also replaced the drivers side chasis rail with one of Nato's (passenger side had already been done by a previous owner). These are very well made and it made the job a lot easier than expected, a credit to his work. We also added a dash bar into the cage and triangulated the strut brace as shown in the below pic. We've aligned the mounting points for both the dash bar and the strut brace with the gussets that run from the inner firewall to the outer firewall. This should stiffen it up nicely. Have also fitted a set of ZCar63's adjustable rear arms. These are very well engineered and it will be great to fix the uneven rear tow. I've got someone lined up to do the wiring in a few weeks time so it shouldn't be long until it's going again. We have another bub due towards the end of the year so it might still be a while before I do an event with it. So there is 3+ years of posts shoved into a few paragraphs. I'll try to keep the updates a little more regular for now on!

From memory it was one of the partners from Nolathane went out on his own, I could be wrong though. It was a while ago! Not sure if they're still around or not.

I used Noltec through mine and was very happy with the product. Didn't source them locally though.

I had the same experience with CRS. I only ordered the gearbox mount. Had to modify it heaps to get it to fit and then didn't use it anyway because it doesn't leave any room for an exhaust and uses the chassis rails for all its strenght which are pretty weak on an S30. I e-mailed them photos of the modifications to make it work and received no reply.

It sucks that it's not on free to air and I have no intention of paying an inflated price for a bunch of other channels that I don't want. At least Fox give live coverage of all of the support categories though.

I did a full season of racing with my Rota RBs bouncing of ripple strips, etc with no issues. The only ones I've seen photos of broken are the ones with the 6 square looking spokes like in the pic Dat2kman posted up.

I thought somebody in QLD might be keen to snap these up. If you scroll down to the last post he says he's happy to give them away to get rid of them. http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/433133-rota-wheels-17x85-4-offset/

240Z circuit car in the south, getting close to the end of a 5 year conversion from an L28 Turbo to an RB26/30. I'm confident this will be the year it hits the track again but I've said that at the start of the year for the last 5 years.....

We screwed a thin piece of aluminium angle across the back the hatch and screwed the back of that ducktail to that with the ducktail sitting over top of the angle so it is hidden. We also used sikaflex.

Best get the loctite out pal. The nuts on my moustache bar always kept coming loose until we put loctite on them.

Nice steering mate, and what an outstanding production! I'll be looking out for you on the red carpet at the Oscars.

Yeah, mine caused mass oversteer on exit when we put the cage in. Went from a 23mm rear bar back to a 16mm rear bar and it fixed it. I'm only running 200lb springs but I generally like a softer setup.

I did a 1:48 with an L motor on semis. Car was fully engineered and road registered.....................had a turbo hanging off the side though

Looks like a pretty handy steerer........Is his last name Bobby? I really like the track, looks like heaps of fun.

Well done Mick! I noticed you were towards the pointy end of the result at Highclere hillclimb. Must really be getting the car sorted now. Pitty about the blue Z, that was a pretty tidy car :-\

If it's an N42 head it will definitely have dished pistons. It was only the Patrols with P90 heads that had flat top pistons to get the compression ratio up to something reasonable with the large volume combustion chambers of the P90 head.

Pretty sure you will still need an engineers certificate because you're putting a turbo engine into an n/a car, regardless of capacity. Best to have a good read before you do anything.

When I bought my car it had a standard front bar and a 22mm rear bar in it, I think to counter the understeer from the welded diff. It worked well until I put the cage in and that made it way too stiff in the rear resulting in massive oversteer on the exit of corners. I went back to a 16mm Whiteline rear bar and it's really nicely balance now. I've bought a 25mm Selby front bar to try with the 22mm rear bar to see how that works but I haven't had a chance to try it yet.

A reliable 200rwkw with a truckload of torque should be achievable on a budget build L28ET using an unopened L28E engine and fitting the turbo gear to it. It's still not going to be a cheap exercise though and you need a good computer or it will be thirsty and a pig to drive. For the few hundred dollars difference, I would go an RB25 over an RB20 considering how much you're going to spend to get it in there and running anyway.