Scando

As the others have said, keep them out of the light and at constant temp. each time the rubbers heats and cools again it cures and hardens. I remember the old tyre treatment dat2kman is talking about from my karting days. Worked a treat but they banned it when I was about 10.

Found the part number. RUJ-2028PL The PL is the important bit of the part number.

Hardy spicer do a heavy duty uni joint without the grease nipples and galleries as discussed. Haven't broke one with 266rwkw and 255 semi slicks.

Nah, no regulator on the lift pump, just on the pressure pump from the surge tank. The lift pump should never see much pressure anyway as it only has the resistance of the lines. I have a return from the top of the surge tank back to the main tank the same as Jamo.

Hi Mick, I run a Holley Blue on mine with the return going back to the surge tank. Seems to work well and yes they are very noisy!

Don't go body colour, it can end up looking a bit cheap. Silver could possibly work if you got the colour just right, but the accountants vote is still for black I have a feeling Darth Spud would also want black..................

Time for some more pics!

Pretty sure the mounting points are in the same spot on a 25 & a 30 because people don't change the mounts when they put a 25/30 in an R33. It's possilbe that the mounts I got sold as 200ZR mount are something different. They were really cheap! Anyway, I'm still glad I got them becuase they gave us a great starting point to work with and try different positions.

Looks great Pete, can't wait to see what it punches out.

Progress has been slow the last couple of months. Now we're into cricket season it doesn't leave me with much time to work on the Z. We've decided to make some mounts rather than modify the 200ZR mounts. To get the engine where we want it, it ended up too far from the position the 200ZR mounts put it in and they were going to be quite heavy by the time we welded extra plates onto them. We now have some templates made up for one of my fabricator mates to make the mounts from. The extra height of the RB30 block makes it a bit more challenging than it would be to fit a normal RB26 or RB25. The sump will have about 10mm clearance to the cross-member. I've bought a high mount manifold so the turbo will only have about 30mm clearnace to the bonnet. I hope this is enough when it pulls up on the passenger side mount under load. I'll have to get a turbo bag to stop it blistering the paint I reckon. The cam covers just sit in nicely under the bonnet latching point with about 10mm clearance. If this hits under load I can always chop it off as the bonnet release is removed anyway. The engine is sitting around 30-40mm from the firewall which should just allow enough room to run hoses around the back. There's plenty of clearance from the timing belt cover to the bonnet thanks to the factory bulge in the bonnet. I'll post up some pics once the mounts are made and it's sitting in there properly. I've been keeping an eye on ebay and the skylines australia forum and grabbing parts as the come up cheap. So far I've acquired a Nismo twin plate clutch, Jun oil pump and collar, ATI 1000HP balancer, twin feed rail with Tomei regulator, exhaust manifold, along with the 25 box and complete RB26 mentioned earlier. Slowly getting there

When I looked at it, I remeber it saying the ECU must be "from the period". So that pretty much limits you to the stock ECU or maybe there were some very early Haltech's, etc about then? There were also a lot more freedoms with fibreglass panels, intercooler, turbo, injectors, etc if the car was built in 1981 or before. I think the first 280ZX Turbo was built in 1982? I know they've changed the classes for the new historic tarmac rally championship class so it's probably all changed since I looked at it. Anyway, back to the subject sorry navanskyline. As the others have commented, it sounds like your engine has had a bit of work done so I'm guessing it has had the head shaved and/or flat top pistons. If this is the case then your compression ratio will be too high. Better to sell your engine and get an n/a engine from a 280ZX. It will have a comp ratio of 8.2:1 and happily take around 10psi on 98 fuel. With decent manifolds, exhaust, computer, throttle body, intercooler, turbo, injectors, fuel pumps, etc, etc, you should be able to make close to 200rwkw on standard internals with good reliability. Unless you can do pretty much all of the work yourself then it will cost you a small fortune.

Yep, too much I'd say. Remember, whichever engine you choose, buying the engine is only a small part of the conversion cost. I've often had the same idea about an S130 2 seater turbo. Hardest part would be the computer. You would most likely have to mod the standard computer like you've done on the 280Z.

It's going back a few years but I got quoted $2,500 from a place that imports them from the US. I thought it seemed a bit steep at the time. I reckon Galderdi is on the money. Anything over $1,500 and you're better off starting with an n/a L28 and buying manifolds, etc. If you want decent performance then you'll end up not using a lot of the standard parts anyway, turbo, computer, etc. The Turbo Dizzy is worth getting hold as it gives you the trigger signals you need to hook up an aftermarket computer. Also has a P90 head, high volume oil pump, F54 block, and probably a few other bits that will be handy if you want to build an engine to make decent power. I'd actually prefer the higher comp n/a engine to start with, they will happily take 10psi on 98 fuel and be much more responsive. If it's got a T2 turbo then Ben might be on the money about it being an L20A. Pretty sure the L28 turbos came with T3's.

Loving your work as usual Pete, are they those 'yellow jacket' coil packs? Any good? They seem to be a lot more reasonably priced than splitfires.

If you don't want to pull the 260Z 5 spd apart, I have a bellhousing sitting about with the hole already enlarged for the bigger diameter selector shaft in the R32 box. $20 plus freight? If you're interested, send me a PM with your address and I'll get you a quote on freight.

I still just run a standard rubber mount. The standard rubber strap has been replaced with a 4mm thick metal strap with the ends wrapped around and welded to the same points the rubber strap mounts to. It's then got a piece of radiator hose wrapped around it so that the diff doesn't bash metal on metal. Works a treat

I saw something about this on Mozzas facebook the other day, sounds great! Maybe I should be building the 26/30 N/A!

Nice mate, can't wait to see it up and running. I reckon it's going to surprise some very quick cars.

Gearbox Sold!

Thanks for the pics Pete, I can see why they need tidying up with that pic of the factory return!

Hey Pete, is that the oil return fitting that Spool make for the back of the head? Good thing? Looking forward to seeing the oil mods.

Coming along well mick, keep up the good work

Yeah John, that's him. That 25/30 makes great power for what it cost him to build. I spoke to him a few months ago to get info for my own build and he hadn't ran any events then but said he wasn't far off having the car ready again. Great to hear he's getting into it, I'll have to catch up with him again and see how it's going.

That is MAD!!! Amazing effort for Peter Hall to be that close to him too.

Have any of you guys noticed a yellow R31 coupe running club days in Vic lately? A guy I used to race against moved to Vic and said he was planning to run some club days last time I was talking to him. His name is Kelvin, say hi to him if you spot him, he's one of the nicest blokes you'll ever meet and quite switched on. His R31 gets along alright too.