Scando

Hardie Spicer do a heavy duty uni joint. I've run them with 266rwkw and 9" semi-slicks. Destroyed several gearboxes but never had a problem with the uni joints.

I've got the front valance/stone tray plus the sections either end that the indicators sit in. If you're keen, $50 plus you organise freight from postcode 7109 TAS. Cheers, Shane

I fitted one to mine. I don't have an oil temp sensor but it helped decrease the water temps. Also, before i fitted the oil cooler, the oil pressure would drop right down towards the end of longer races. Once I fitted the cooler it stayed perfect all of the time. Unless you're doing track days, I'd say it's overkill on an n/a L series.

Hi Pauly, you're going to hate me for telling you this now but on 98 fuel the standard naturally aspirated compression of 8.2:1 would be better without the decompression plate. Even more so once you switch to the bigger turbo so there's not as much restriction on the exhaust side. Have you welded the timing weights in the dizzy? If so then you should be able to bump up the timing and liven it up a bit. Great to hear it's up and running

Good to hear I'm on the right track. I know it's a completely different shell but I guess the same principles still apply. I did want to run bars from the strut towers back to the bar behind the dash and weld them in as part of the cage, the same as you did on the GTR's, but the new CAMS rules won't allow it so I'll have to settle with the 3 point strut brace. I could do it if I went through the roll cage certification process but that's a pretty expensive exercise. I can still do bars from the strut towers back to the front legs which may still be an option. You're right about cages being more about performace than safety. Although now I have a baby on the way I'm thinking a little more of the safety side of things.

I agree with Jamo on the strut braces. I had a front brace built for mine and I couldn't feel any difference on the track, opposed to when we installed the cage which made a huge difference to the way the car felt and picked up 1.5 seconds a lap. The plan now is to add a cross bar between the front legs of the cage in behind the dash and tie this to the gussets that go between the inner and outer fire walls. We will then build a strut brace which ties back to the same points on the engine bay side of the fire wall. Is this what you did on the GTR's? Or were the bars in the engine bay of the GTR's actually part of the cage?

At PI in 2009 I was hitting the 6,300rpm limiter at the end of the straight with a 3.54 diff, 0.75 5th, and approx 625mm diameter tyres (255/40's). Works out at just under 280km/h. That was with an L28ET, only making about 400HP but it was pulling around 200km/h coming onto the straight and the last little bit of the straight is down hill. I'm not sure that a power to weight based calculator would give a very accurate top speed. As Gordo mentioned, aero has a lot more impact on top speed than weight.

Nice work Jamo! I like the sound they make with small exhaust housings. Sounds like a 747 taking off

Yep, perfect for that

The only downsides we found with it were your tyres will wear quicker and if you use it and then don't use the tyres again for a long time it can deteriorate the rubber. It doesn't leave any greasy film and softens the rubber so you'll be quicker in the wet too. I wouldn't use it on new tyres, just buy a softer compound. But it's great for getting the last bit out of old tyres.

You can see in the video how much quicker Gordo is through the sweeper coming onto the straight which makes all the difference. Nice driving! As for the tyre treatment. We used it all the time on the kart tyres until they banned it. Works a treat! And it smells like deep heat so you could probably even use it to soothe those aching muscles after race day

Ahh, thought it was you but I wasn't sure. You're right that it would be a nicer setup on a road car to retain the factory inlet plenum if it fits.

I'm in the process of doing an RB30 conversion at the moment with an RB26 head. I agree with Jamo about not using the Castlemaine gearbox mount. I bought one from them and it needed a LOT of modification to fit. I think it might be design for a 280Z (only sold in the US). It doesn't work with the 240Z/260Z floorpan and rails. I'm not sure about the Castlemaine engine mounts as I had them made to get the engine as low and as far back as I could. Because I'm using the 26 head which has a forward facing plenum I have plenty of bonnet clearance to the cam covers. If you use the factory RB30 inlet plenum it will be tight for room but you could always use an aftermarket forward facing plenum. If you sit the engine about 30-40mm further forward than I have it, then you can use one section of an R33 skyline tailshaft with one of the flanges changed. Another member on here has done it.

You can't trust him Pete, I would have confiscated his camera

Rings are sold pending payment I'll post up pics of what is left after the buyer takes what he wants.

Thanks for all the enquiries so far. At the moment the following parts are sold pending payment/freight quotes: - Engine Mounts - Most Interior Plastics (I will post up photos of what the buyer doesn't take) - Gaskets - N42 Head - Stone Tray Sorry to those who missed out. If any of the people who were first in decide not to take the items then I will offer them to the person that contacted me 2nd. The interior carpets and diamond vinyl for the rear strut towers are all still available. I will try to get some photos and post them up but it probably won't be until the weekend. As a general guide, if you're looking for bits for a nice resto then these interior parts aren't what you're looking for. It all looks respectable but not immaculate. - The carpet is good (just needs a thorough clean) but I'm pretty sure it's not original - The strut tower vinyl has some small tears in it but is still usable - The recover on the sun visors looks ok but it does have wrinkles in it I hope that helps with peoples queries Cheers, Shane

More pics

Pics

I had a big cleanout over the weekend and have a few L series parts I won't need anymore because of the RB conversion. I also have a few parts which I have stripped from the car for the track which I was holding onto but I can't see myself ever needing them again now. New engine mounts - Sold Pending Payment - had these as spares but they were never used New Mahle L28 rings for standard pistons - Sold Pending Payment - Must of bought these when I was building an engine at some stage but never used them. They're still in the box with the fitting instructions, etc. Assorted Gaskets - Sold - This includes a head gasket, 5 manifold gaskets, 2 sump gaskets and close to 100 other random gaskets and seals. 'A' grind factory cam - $30 'B' grind factory L28 turbo cam - $50 N42 head with valves and springs - Sold - This was on my original L28ET but it cracked the block and boiled. When I rebuilt the engine I used a P90 so it hasn't been used since. I believe it is not warped and fine to use but I can't guarantee it. It is priced accordingly. Stone tray - Sold Pending Freight Quote - Looks to be very straight Black Interior - $100 - Includes a centre console (not perfect but useable) and some other plastic parts such as kick panels, includes carpet in pretty good condition (99% sure this isn't the original carpet), sun visors (in good condition but I think they have been recovered), rear strut tower vinyl (couple of minor tears). May seperate if there are particular parts people are after. I will post most items (except the stone tray and maybe the interior) at buyers expense. Please message me for a quote. I also think I'll be replacing my standard Speedo and Tacho with a Racepak dash but I'm not 100% sure at this stage. If anyone is interested in them then let me know and it might make my decision for me! Cheers, Shane

Did you get this sorted? I found this while I was doing a big cleanout yesterday. I use a full size battery and it was 30mm to short but it would be fine for a smaller race type battery. It would need a lid made up. Let me know if you're interested.

Sweet, even easier! If you want to take Jac somewhere nice for the night while you're in the Huon, try this place: http://www.woodbridgehillhideaway.com.au/ It will earn you some massive browny points

Hey mate, Me and Jas are keen to catch up with you and Jac again. Could go for dinner somewhere around Hobart if you're keen. Let me know the dates once you've locked it all in.

I reckon the vents look great. I've got a couple of small vents in the same spot and they work a treat. When I blew a head gasket once before, the water from the overflow sucked out of the vents so hard it was going over the roof!

Thanks Jamo, I'm not around Melbourne too often, that damn bit of water in between makes things difficult! I'll see if I can source a set here locally first. What sump are you running Mick? A custom one I take it? My engine sits in a similar place to yours. I have a heap of room between the bowl and the cross member. We're going to extend the bowl forward here to get some extra capacity.

Thanks Jamo, I might see if I can get hold of a set of R33 braces. The standard R31 braces are fouling on the Patrol sump by a long way before we've even modified the sump.