Scando

Very nice finished product. I've definitely got some good ideas from this thread. Thanks mate.

That's what I'm after Thanks again Pete.

Thanks for the explanation Pete. Makes sense that the sharp edge on the step would cause a hot spot. So for a higher compression (9.5:1) and farily low boost engine (15psi or less) you would just do the inlet side?

Checkout Jamo250Z's build thread. He found that for a street car, if you sit the engine in the right spot then you can use part of an R33 tailshaft (front half I think from memory?) and just change the yoke to go onto the diff. It's sits the engine a little further forward than what would be ideal for balance though. As Pete mentioned, there's always a fair bit of work converting a carby car to EFI. It's handy if you're good with wiring or know somebody who is.

Bare F54 block sold

Looking good Pete Thanks very much for posting up the pics.

Very nice

Hi Ben, I have a bare F54 block. $50 plus freight if you're keen? Cheers, Shane

Hi Paul, We do all of the mechanical work on my car so I can't recommend anyone from first hand experience. However, if you're looking for someone in the Hobart area I'd give JP automotive a go. The 2 owners worked at Warwick motors with my old man. Warwick motors was the southern Tas Datsun dealership. So they should know Datsuns inside out. I believe one of the owners still has a nice original 240Z.

Had a custom made steampipe manifold, not a bad design for the limited space. P90 head, standard other than slightly modified combustion chambers. Standard inlet manifold and commodore throttle body. The crossover pipe going from the turbo to the inlet of the intercooler wasn't very big in diameter so I think that may have been a restriction? Should be plenty lively enough for the new owner in a street car anyway

If this affects Classic Targa Adelaide then I wouldn't take this as the final word. Octagon are a very profesional crew and are used to working through these kinds of issues.

Hey mate, the info I have from when mine was engineered has the standard wheels at 14" x 4.5". Front track 1335 Rear track 1350 Doesn't seem right to me (I thought the front track was wider than the rear from factory) but that's what the Department of Transport had on their records. What about the R31 GTS-R's? They had a long nose R200 but I'm not sure on the wheel sizes?

I'm not sure it's the difference between the RB30 and RB25 blocks as I'm pretty sure the mounting points are the same. You're right though, your engine is definitely a lot further back than the standard mounts will sit mine. We've decided to sit th engine another 35-40mm back now. Getting some plates made up to weld onto the 200ZR mounts and drill some new holes to re-position it.

Nice work Jamo, that looks fantastic! You've definitely given me some great ideas for my sump. Thanks for posting up such detailed info and pics for us all. And yep, the rear bowl RB30 sumps are from Patrols. That's what I'm using to start with.

Yep, I wasn't even in the ballpark of that kind of power

That exhaust manifold looks like a brilliant design for the limited space on a l28t. This should make one quick z Aaron I found mine tapered off quickly up in the revs with the .63 but it may have been something else restricting it on my setup.

We have a freshly crowned state champion in our midst. Bluerat called the shots from the passenger seat to win the Tasmanian Rally Championship in the 2WD class. Unfortunately it was in a Commodore but I think we'll forgive him this time. He wore a fake moustache at all times in an attempt to go incogneto. Well done mate

Yep, that's him. He's a very friendly bloke and has just about every Z part you could possibly need.

Dummy fitted an old RB30 block last night using the 200ZR mounts. It looks like the mounts are going to work with a bit of modification, thanks Sco_Aus for the tip As you can see from the pic below they will sit the engine in about the same spot in the engine bay as the L series was. The 240Z mounting points on the cross member are slightly further apart than in a 200ZR so it needs a spacer plate between the mounts and the block to line up nicely. The plan is to weld on a 5mm spacer plate to the face of each mount and drill some new holes to sit the engine about 5mm further back, 15mm down on the passenger side, and 25mm down on the drivers side (it's currently on more of an angle than it would sit in a Skyline). This should sit the engine spot on where we want it. I'll post up some pics of the mounts when we're done modifying.

Welcome Paul, great to see more Tassie members joining the forum. If you need any parts call BP Dover and ask for Mick. He has HEAPS of parts. Cheers, Shane

If that's the case then I'd definitely stick with the rear bar you have and just try the springs. I'd be worried it will get very tail happy with a big rear bar. And it won't cost you anything What rear shocks are you running? Are they going to be able to properly control the stiffer springs?

It will be a very stiff setup for running on semi-slicks, keeping in mind that the bre cars ran on slicks. Your front is already much stiffer than I would recommend but it obviously works well going by the times you're doing. What does the balance of the car feel like now? Does it tend towards understeer or oversteer? On entry or exit? Unless the car tends towards understeer as it is now I'd be worried that the stiff rear springs and bar might give you some serious oversteer issues. As dazda said, do one thing at a time and test it. Do a session with just the new springs in then try a bigger bar if you think it needs it, that's my 2 cents worth

We just used standard studs but we used the copper washers and nuts you mentioned. The copper nuts are a lot more friendly to use after they've been hot.

Who's is the blue over white car in the 3rd post? Looks nice.

Thanks Pete, sounds like a good option that's much more affordable than a Tomei/Nitto/Jun pump.