Scando

Mine is a simialr colour (the Ford toxic green) and it looked very yellow when it went on and turned greener as it dried properly.

You've done an awesome job of tidying it up, looks great!

lol, got something on your mind after the weekend Bluerat? Haven't got the cheque book out yet?

hehe, just looking at something on ebay that would go better with the colour of my Z

Easy to build yourself, just pull it out of a standard 280ZX With the right bolt on bits, good fuel, and a decent computer you could easily make over 200rwkw on an internally standard L28. Compression ratio is only 8.3:1 so the n/a engine is very turbo friendly. My current setup is making 265rwkw on standard 2nd hand rods and crank with forged pistons and a slightly modified P90 head.

Well tell it to stop dressing so suggestively

Not sure, I was too busy perving on the car to look at the driver

Spotted Sexual Sushi coming the other way as we were heading from the city up to Mt Cootha on Saturday. Not sure of the suburb we were in, I was up in Brisbane on holidays

You could try to find the "B" grind cam which is the factory turbo cam. I'm running a regrind to suit the turbo from powerplay (formerly datrally) and am very happy with the results and price.

The turbo pistons are the same as what you've already got. For the power you're chasing don't change the head. The P90 lowers the compression ratio too far and you'll loose response. The standard engine is more than capable of making the power you're chasing. I had 174rwkw on a basically standard n/a engine at 10psi with my old setup. I'm running a Haltech sport 2000 but a basic Microtech would be a lot cheaper and do the job fine. The 174rwkw was made with a Haltech F9 but this was a fuel only computer and I'd suggest going for something that also controls ignition. Read the thread below, it runs through the basics you'll need for a budget turbo build. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,6863.msg62759.html#msg62759

I attached the front to the hatch and attached the rear to a peice of right angle aluminium inside the rear lip of the spoiler which I also attached to the hatch. I used screws and sikaflex but I'm sure sikaflex alone would be fine, it's awesome stuff!

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My car owes me about the same as the cheapest 2nd hand 350Z's getting about, has an extra 150kw's or so and weighs 400-500kg less. Pretty easy decision I think. A 350Z would run smooth, be quiet, etc, etc but to be honest (unless it's for a daily driver) I find all that boring.

Congrats Scotty. If you're not sure of anything along the way send me a message or ask the old man when You're in at the workshop.

Here's some links to in-car footage from a couple of my runs at the kart track: Run 4 Run 5

For me , it's always been a cost thing. I know i wouldn't have been able to get the same lap times as cheaply at each stage of the development of the car with an RB platform. But now, to make more power I really need to pull revs which is where it will get expensive with an L-series. I beleive the best way forward for me now is an RB25/30 hybrid. Bluerat is right though, the looks I still get when people see an L-series under the bonnet are priceless

Only problem is you end up with a viscous centre. Depends what you use the car for I suppose. Viscous are nice and smooth on the street but open wheel on the track once they heat up. I bought one with the KAAZ centre for a NA S13 already installed. The NA S13's used the same number of splines as the Z's on the axles so no need to modify the axles. Herrods, if you wanted to go this way I have the part number for the correct KAAZ centre to use. Or there is an excellent write up on it on Ozdat. Exactly what I had in mind but I found one already done, much easier and cheaper

Most open R200's have different size crownwheel bolts to the LSD's so this can cause problems if you try to do a swap.

As the others have said, CAS on the front on most RB's with the exception of the RB30 where it is in the dizzy.

Above sounds really good for a budget build. I would stress to go for aftermarket engine management though. If your budget is really tight then you should be able to pick something up second hand for $300-$500 as long as your patient enough to sort out the wiring! As far as turbos go, the one I'm running would be perfect for a road car. It's a 3540R with a 0.63 exhaust housing. The small exhaust housing makes it come on very quick for a large turbo. Unfortunately it also creates a lot of heat so I need to move to the 0.82 housing. On a street car you won't be on the throttle for the extended periods of time so that heat won't be a problem.

Yep, I think I first raced there in 1991. About 10 years ago it had an extension to add two more straights and hairpins. They've done a lot recently with the clubrooms,etc.

Thanks Scott. My old man has put many many hours into it also. I take it you saw it down at the workshop? Are you from the Huon Valley? Unfortunately I'm not running many events this year due to building a house but may run at Baskerville in August. I'll keep you posted Cheers Shane

Hi Aidannn The L28ET's in the US use used a head called a P90. It has larger combustion chambers to lower the compression ratio to around 7.4:1 from memory. In my opinion this is too low and will result in a lack of response. For a budget L28ET setup I would simply use a standard n/a 280ZX engine with the compression ratio of 8.3:1. You could go a thick head gasket to get it a little lower as herrods suggested. If you get a decent intercooler, good engine management, run it on 98 fuel and run around 10-12psi you should be able to get 150-200rwkw depending on what other bits and peices you use. This is the basics of the initial setup when I bought my car and it was good for 174rwkw with excellent response and torque. Make sure you buy a computer that controls fuel and ignition so you can pull back the ignition timing when it comes onto boost to stop detonation without loosing response. Don't worry about the lower power figure, it will have a truckload more torque than your mates Honda. I'm now running a modified P90 head and flat top pistons to get around 8.0:1 compression but this is not worth the trouble really. I now have 265rwkw but the biggest gains have been from the turbo (switched from a t03/04 hybrid to a GT3540R), and fuel (I'm now running Sunoco 260GT0. This allows me to run 21psi boost. My build thread can be found here. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,2662.0.html

Can't wait to see the pics Scott. Hunter, it was at highclere. Lots of fun!

I originally tried to go for 17x9 all round but the offset doesn't suit the fronts all that well. I know there are plenty of guys running them but most of them end up with 225 rubber to squeeze them in under the flares which defeats the purpose for me. I ended up going for the 8.5 fronts with 9 rears with 245 rubber on the front and 255 on the rear. The offset on the 8.5's is spot on for the front (if you're running coil overs) so it allows you to run the widest rubber from what I've seen . There would be room for more rubber under the rear than the 255s but that's the widest most companies make 17 inch semi slicks so there was no point me going to the 9.5. I'm sure you could get 265 x 17 road tyres though. All I've done so far is bought the fitting kit. My house got started just before christmas so the poor Z has sat untouched since then until I dragged it out for this event. I just ran a 280ZX box I had kicking about because I knew this event would be easy on the drivetrain. I'm looking to have a Z32 box in by August to run a round of our state series.