Scando

As long as they are long nose they should fit fine.

Here's a few web sites for the Tassie side of things: http://www.targawrestpoint.com.au/ http://www.targa.org.au/ http://www.rallytasmania.com.au/2009/index.htm There's also the Classic Adelaide, although I heard this event is under threat, and there's one in WA. I'm sure there's others I don't know about too. The Dutton rally is another option, has a bit of everything.

These guys make them at pretty good prices. http://www.motorsportfibreglass.com.au/

What widths did you go for Scott? Your car will look great with them on. Big thanks to Bluerat and Mrs Bluerat for the accommodation for the weekend. What Bluerat failed to mention is that he also carved a track in his L20 powered 1600 to win the under 2 litre class by over 2 seconds! A 200B rally car with an L20 stroked to 2.4 litres also won the 2-3 litre class to give the mighty Datsun badge 3 out of 6 class wins! I got some good in-car footage from the weekend so i'll put it up on youtube when I get a chance.

I'm keen as to do this bathurst meet one year. For what it's worth, at Phillip island I was hitting the 6,300 rpm limit with a 3.54 diff, 0.759 5th and 255/40 17's. the gearcalc program tells me I was doing 281km/h. I do have a front spoiler and an undertray from the spoiler to the radiator support. I tried the same calc with the tyre diameter as specified by Bridgestone at it came out at 278. A guy I race against runs a VY Commodore and recently added a V8 Supercar bodykit. It's over a second a lap quicker now but hit's lower speeds on his telemetry due to the extra drag of the spoilers.

The four caps as I have marked with the red cross press out of the eyes in the yoke. However now I've looked at the picture closer it looks like the yoke is cracked where i have marked with the green cross?

The uni should be able to be removed from the driveshaft. The uni joints are pressed in not welded in. I just run Hardie Spicer heavy duty uni joints in the standard driveshaft. With a naturally aspirated L series this should be plenty strong enough.

I haven't run the Toyos but I've heard they like low pressures. Might explain the difference? I've only run Bridgestones and Dunlops. Bridgestones I would start with 28-29 and aim for 34-35 hot. Dunlops I would start with 25-26 cold and aim for 32-33 hot.

As the other guys have said, about 28psi cold is a good starting point. I assume you have the SR2 compound? The most important thing is to check them as soon as you come in after each run while the tyres are hot. Try to get them so they're about 34 psi hot. If they go over 36psi hot they will go to mush.

You can sort of see mine in this photo: http://www.viczcar.com/gallery/displayimage.php?album=random&cat=10399&pos=-2620 It's similar to what you have in mind. Just a flat piece of metal bent at 90 degrees with a loop welded to it.

My mount has not been reinforced to compensate. because the mount only needs to be cut away on the back side you still have the front side to provide the full support. mine has a lot more cut away than in the picture provided by nizmozed. I would say if it's only a very small amount like that it would have almost zero effect on the rigidity of the mount. Some of the engineering minded people on the forum might be able to give you a better answer here. Mine has been through a couple of the rubber mounts that sit below with no signs of damage to the part of the mount shown in the picture. Hope this helps. Shane

Mine has a LOT of that section cut away to clear the turbo (3540R on a custom manifold). It's done plenty of racing and hard launches with no issues. You're right, you don't need much clearance at all from the turbo to the mount as they will move together. I have about 2mm!

Spot on! If you're going to do any form of motorsport in your car you have to expect that it may end up a write off. Having said that, yes Z's are rare but not too rare to use for motorsport. I was just watching historic F1 cars on One HD at Goodwood going at it like there's no tomorrow! Watching that makes a Z seem about as precious as a rusted out 120Y. This guy shouldn't be hounded for wanting to drift his Z. The people that leave them in the shed and never use them should be the ones copping it! There's been a few good responses in here on the question you actually asked in your original post. I'm no expert on drifting but mtopxsecret6 had the basics down for starting off I think. Welded diff, stiff rear bar and springs and lots of castor. A high ratio steering box would be a huge help if there's any easy conversion out there. Z's are very predictable and I can confirm they will drift very nicely entry, mid and exit even if it is by accident on cold tyres As sco_aus said, a lot of people think you need slippery tyres, etc to drift. You actually want heaps of grip to carry speed when you're sideways. Then you also need lots of power to pull through it.

Pretty sure they're factory option mags off an early Celica. New wheels look awesome by the way

Sounds spot on to me. That's about what I'm running. I know there's a lot of the guys in the US making big power on around 7.5:1 but by the time they find boost you'll be at the next corner I agree with not worrying about tuned length. The minor gains you get from tuned length will be outweighed by the loss in response from the extra long runner lengths you end up with on a turbo L6. Mine is a very basic custom made log style manifold which looks dodgey but I've had a couple of fabricators look at it and say they couldn't do anything better in the space there is to work with. Make sure you use steam pipe not exhaust pipe. The manifold gets very hot and supports a heavy turbo. If it's made from exhaust pipe it will warp. Mine if steam pipe and we have still had a lot of trouble with warping. Yep, if you can get the same amount of air into the cylinder with less boost then it's definately a bonus. Will also generate less heat. Sounds like you're on the right track with everything anyway A boosted Cedric will be a very cool cruiser

The best advice I've had so far was from a member on this forum called redrbzed and that was to spend my money on a good, late model, ball bearing turbo. Mine is a 3540R with a .63 exhaust housing and would be perfect on a road car. The way the power comes in is incredible. Unfortunately, since the .63 exhaust housing is so restrictive it creates a lot of heat with the continuous load on the circuit. So i'll be sacrificing some response and going to the next size exhaust housing. Something along the lines of a 3076 with a .82 exhaust housing would also be very good on a street car. Other than that, make sure you have a nice big dump pipe and exhaust and a decent intercooler. Your ITB setup should work well. What exhaust manifold will you be running? I agree that in a n/a setup most of your power comes from the head but in a turbo setup the gains are not as good for the money. Since the air is already being forced in, the size of the hole, angles, etc aren't as crucial as when it has to be sucked. You will still find gains so it's worth doing if you can do it on the cheap. The best head I've used is a standard N42. Was even better that the P90 I'm running at the moment. What compression ratio will you end up with from the E88?

As Bluerat said, I'm very happy with the product and service I received from powerplay. I went from a factory 'B' grind turbo cam and a T03/04 hybrid turbo to the custom grind from powerplay and a GT3540R turbo. Since I changed both at the same time I don't know what gain I made from each but overall it gained 46rwkw and the power comes in earlier. I've found on a lot of items SWR prices are actually very good so they are worth looking at. I'd suggest though if you're building a turbo L6 then maybe your money could be better spent elsewhere and run with a standard cam for now. The gain from a cam will be minimal compared to other things you can do for the same money on a budget turbo build.

Nice Steve, the car will look great with them on it. I haven't heard of Neuton tyres before. They might be a bit of a gamble but at that price they're worth a try for sure!

Yeah, the Bluebird would love Baskerville. Maybe not as well suited to Symmons but Baskerville is a great twisty little track for the 4WD cars to punch off the corners. Targa Wrest Point might be a good option for a mini targa style event. There's also Rally Tas and the Targa Rookie Rally. Did your mate get any photos at PI by any chance? Always keen for pics

Thanks for the offer Lgee but I ordered my Z32 box fitting kit last week. Should be up to the job and will work out at a reasonable price. It's much easier and cheaper for me to go for something like that which I know will fit without too much work. Phillip Island is awesome! I'd love to go back and have another crack at it if the right opportunity comes up. Are you doing the 6 hour regularity at Bathurst next year? In the Bluebird?

Direzza's only seem to work in a very narrow temperature range and pressures are critical. Cold they're hopeless and too hot and they go to mush. In the sweet spot though they are the best thing you'll find in a semi-slick. RE55s work across a wider temperature range but in outright lap times they're not as good. Haven;t tried 888's yet but from what I've seen they work very well cold (all this will also depend on compounds of course, I always run hard compounds to keep costs down) One big thing I've noticed with semi slicks is when I was running the 15x7's they worked better than a good street tyre cold. Now with the 17x9's they are hopeless until i get some heat into them. Might explain the different experiences above?

Very good point, standard brakes with the right pads will work better than big brakes with the wrong pads.

Correct. Don't let people talk you into stiffening the car up too much.

I want to know why he wasn't wearing the glasses when he navigated for me...... What do you think big red will do up there? You might aswell just enter under 3 litre aswell in the rat. I was just looking at the results and you already beat the quickest class C car by over 3 seconds!!!

Bloody oath that is a high speed hillclimb! The rat sure hops into it for a 2ltr. No wonder Kelvins beast sets the pace. Camera on the roof does look trick, I might have to give it a go.