Scando

That looks mean as! Nice work

Pete, where did the oil pump gears come from and roughly what price? With the single cam vs twin cam head, the single cam head is A LOT lighter. I strongly considered a 30 head with some work done instead of the 26 head for that reason. Could make quite a difference to keeping a Z nicely balanced. This is going to be a monster Loui

That sounds great if I can get away with a set of 1000cc injectors, it'll save me a fair bit of cash which I can spend elsewhere. Unless a set of 2000's pop up cheap. I'm definitely interested to find out more about the chamber mods. I'll send you a PM.

I didn't know CP did a piston to give 9.5 comp. I had CP's in the L28 and I'm keen to use them again. I'll have to look into it. Will the 1000cc injectors have much left in them at 350rwkw on E85 or will they be fairly close to 100%? Do you reckon I should go the twin 044's or the aeromotive pump? The only thing that worries me with a twin pump system is the potential to lean the engine out if one pump fails. 25deg at 15psi sounds nice, was that with the 10.5:1 2JZ? That'd be great if you could send me pics of the combustion chamber tricks. What does it achieve? I reckon at this stage I'll just leave the head as is then maybe send you over a head to do if I want more in the future. I'd still be interested to see the pics if you could send them to me though. Thanks

Thanks for the tip on the comp Pete, I wanted to go high comp for the E85 but don't have any experience with it so I wasn't sure how far to go. I think Arias make a 9.6:1 piston designed for RB30DET's so I might go for them. I'll wait and see what the head cc's up at and go from there. I bet the 2JZ makes lots of power with 10.5 comp and 20psi! I'm hoping I can get the power I'm chasing on about 15psi with the high comp. You're right 350rwkw should be nice I think any more than that would be hard to use properly in a car as light as a Z on semi slicks. Thanks for the tip on the exhaust housing, the cool exhaust temps is one of the main reasons I want to run it on E85. I can always stage the boost with the Haltech if it comes on too hard I guess. I've already got the .82 housing so I'll definitely try that first. Any tips on injectors for E85? The Bosch Indy Blues seem cheap but I've heard they're not the best? I've heard good things about the injector Dynamics 2000cc ones, but they're just a modified Bosch 2000cc right? Are they any better than the standard Bosch 2000cc?

When's your next trip down? Like I said, this will be a 1 year project minimum if everything goes well. Would be good to take you around Baskerville in it next time I got hold of some 200ZR mounts at a good price. Haven't tried them yet to see where they will position the engine but I'll let you know how it goes. If it sits where yours does I'll be very happy

Thanks Brad, I got a Patrol sump from John who bought my old engine. 200ZR sump would have been a better starting point but since I'm going to hack it anyway it doesn't matter too much.

Hi all, bit sad that it's been well over a year since I've had anything interesting to post in this thread. I've built a house, got married, and now it's finally time to start playing with the Z again The L28ET is sold, I hope it provides John with as much fun as it has me. The plan is to build an RB26/30 running on E85. Aiming for about 300-350rwkw for a start with a 7,000 rpm rev limit, high compression and low boost. This should keep it relaible and give good drivability. I also want some thing strong enough so that all I need to do is turn the boost up and get a tune if I can afford a drivetrain strong enough to take more power in the future. I've already bought an RB26 that's a bit tired to use the head and inlet setup off. I'll sell off the rest of the parts I don't need. I've also bought an R34 RB25 gearbox. This will be a very long term project, I'd say 1 year minimum. I also plan to replace sections of the chassis rails and extend the roll cage to tie in the front strut towers while the engine is out. So here's the plan: -Series 2 RB30 block crack tested, acid dipped, drilled & tapped for RB26 head studs, bored to 86.5mm, annular groves to feed RB26 main bearings, enlarged oil return galaries. -RB30 crank crack tested, linished, grub screwed & balanced -Crank collar -King or ACL RB26 main Bearings -Standard RB26 harmonic balancer (or an ATI/Ross one if I see one cheap) -Standard RB26 oil pump – new (or Nitto/Tomei/Jun if I see something cheap) -Spool Rods -CP 9:1 or Arias 9.2:1 RB30DET pistons -Standard RB26 water pump -Dayco 94407 timing belt with the one high, one low, tensioner setup. -RB26 head crack tested, hardness tested, acid dipped, surfaced (take enough off to get compression ratio up to around 9.3-9.5:1) -Standard cams, cam gears, valves, springs, etc with the seats re-done and spring pressure checked. -Standard RB26 throttle bodies and inlet plenum -RB26 ARP Head stud kit -Block the rear oil gallery to the head and use a 1.5mm restrictor in the front gallery -Extra oil drain in the back of the head and the side of the head plumbed directly to the sump -Full Genuine Nissan RB26 gasket kit -R34 splitfire coils so I don’t need separate igniters -NGK BCPR7EIX-11 plugs -Holley Blue lift pump (already have) -Cumulator tank -Bosch regulator -Twin 044 pumps or a single 1000hp aeromotive pump -1200cc injectors or bigger (will probably go Bosch/ID 2000cc) -Ebay twin feed fuel rail if I go twin 044’s (if not then standard RB26 rail) -GT3540R with .82 exhaust housing (already have) – may consider 1.06 housing if the .82 come on too hard. -Whatever T3 flanged externally gated manifold I can find that will work in my engine bay. -Tial 44mm wastegate or bigger? Depends on the manifold design I end up with -4 inch dump into 3 inch straight through pipe. (already have) -Haltech Sport 2000 ECU (already have) -Large good quality intercooler (already have) -Oil cooler (already have) -Turbosmart Vee Port BOV -Pod Filter (already have) -Twin plate clutch (most likely a 2nd hand OS Giken or Nismo, whatever comes up cheap) -R34 RB25 gearbox -Modified R33/R34 tailshaft -Patrol sump to fit the 240Z. Increased capacity, baffled, etc -Modified Patrol oil pickup -Intercooler piping, turbo feeds & returns, etc That should keep me busy and broke for a while!

Another price drop on the 280ZX 5 speed. Now $400.

Thanks for the help guys, I searched the net and found a tip shop south of Mount Eliza that sells them for $2 so he's going to grab one from there. Cheers

Hi all, I've just bought a gearbox from Mount Eliza (VIC) and the guy I bought it off needs a pallet to put it on for shipping. Does anyone know where he might be able to get a pallet from in the area? Thanks, Shane

Haha, you beat me to it Engine type: L28 Turbo Engine Size: 2800cc L/100km: 50 Carburettor type / or injector size: 500cc injectors

Price drop on the 280ZX gearbox $450.

I think that's what the original colour of my car was from what I found when I stripped the interior. It's now Ford Toxic Green. I hated the colour when I first bought the car but it grew on me so I stuck with it

Nice time Sinisha! The video looks great, gets a bit excited out siberia That's a great time for semi-slicks. Well done!

I've got one in Tas I can freight to you too.

Clutch Sold

Yeah, but I don't think the spare on my shoulder will do much on an RB30 bottom end

Personally, I'd start by checking if the shocks are ok as per what Nizmozed said. If your shocks are buggered then fixing anything else won't make a noticeable difference. Secondly, you're on the right track with the bushes. If they're buggered then there's no point upgrading anything else until they're fixed. Thridly, tyres! The difference between a good or bad set of tyres is huge. You don't need to spend a fortune, just something decent that has plenty of support in the sidewalls. haha, can of worms indeed! The main things I could see having an effect are the longer wheelbase should make the 2+2 more stable at high speed but less nimble in tight corners. Also, I would expect the body of the 2+2 to twist more due to the longer wheelbase. The other thing is, more weight is not just more to accelerate and stop. It's also more weight to change the momentum of when you turn into a corner. I haven't driven a 2+2 so this is all hypothetical. As to the impact any of the above would have on the way the car feels driving around the streets? Probably next to nothing!

L28 & L24 sold

I reckon I'll try to find a head complete with the inlet side. I'll keep it in mind though incase I find just a head at the right price. Thanks

Sco_Aus sent me a pic yesterday of where his engine sits using 200ZR mounts and I reckon that's the way I'll go. Would have been nice to be able to use the standard R33 tail shaft with no modifications as yours looks like a great setup but I need to get the engine very close to the firewall for weight distribution. I've got a couple of friends that I race against running RB30DET's and they seem to make massive power with minimum effort which is why I'm keen on building one. The inlet manifold is the main reason I'm leaning towards an RB26 head. If I use an RB25 head I would need to buy an aftermarket forward facing plenum to make it fit and I'd want a bigger throttle body too. So in the end it should work out about the same as buying an Rb26 head which already has the forward facing plenum and ITB's. Whichever engine I built I would be going forged pistons and rods so the overall cost won't be much different whether I build an RB25 or 30 bottom end. I'll run the single GT3540R I had on my L28. I was running a .63 exhaust housing on that which was too small. I've just purchased a .82 exhaust housing (thanks Vindicare ) which should be perfect. I plan to run minimum 9:1 compression (maybe more like 9.5:1) on E85. I want about 300-350rwkw without running too much boost or reving it too hard. With the extra capacity, high compression, and lowish boost it should make the power delivery nice and smooth. If it does come on too hard I'll run the boost control through the Haltech and stage it. If it makes strong power from 3500-7000 rpm then that will be a plenty wide enough range. This setup should also allow me to make much more power in the future if I can get the car setup well enough to use it and if I can afford a drivetrain strong enough to take it. Good point about the weight. I might do some research into the weight of the bigger block and crank. If there's a big difference then I might consider an RB26 bottom end. Thanks for all of the info, it's very much appreciated. I'm still getting it all together in my brain and trying to work out what will be the best way to go for what I'm after I don't want to re-invent the wheel, just copy what people smarter than me have done well

Hey Jamo, It's funny you mention it. I was reading your build thread yesterday and was really interested about what you had done with the tail shaft. I'm sure you'll get some pm's from me once I get into it Going to stiffen the front end up a bit while the engines out so it'll be a long term project. I think I'm going to go for an RB26/30.

Hi all, I have a buyer for the L28ET setup in my Z and am going to move to an RB engine. As a result I'm going to clear out all of my L series parts. As I find parts kicking about the shed I'll update this post. I'm happy to send interstate at the buyers expense but for most of these parts it will make it uneconomical. I will consider trades for RB parts. To get things rolling: Patrol L28 - F54 block, N42 head. I haven't seen this engine running but the previous owner said it was running fine when he removed it to put a 302 in his Patrol. $300 SOLD 280ZX 5 Spd - No noise, synchros feel fine. $400 Sprung centre button clutch and HD pressure plate - $100 SOLD Bare L28 F54 block - $50 SOLD L24 from R30 Skyline - Spun bearing, high k's, fuel injectors, rail and maybe a couple of other parts missing. $50 SOLD PM me if interested in any of the above. Cheers, Shane

Nice stoppers They should pull it up nicely on the track. That is a great price too for what you get.