nat0_240_chevZ

Pricing upon application. whos still in?

Rev, PM me pricing of the diamond vinyl and the seat covers, might aswell send through door skin prices if they are STD look. Have you got pics of any previous/current work? you can email me? 'nat0zparts@adam.com.au' cheers Nat0

just one pair?? ahh, may not be enough now!!! lol on a serious note, this is the main reason why its best for them to be done in larger batch qtys, as the machine setups and trying to lock-down time to do them is the biggest hurdle. I guarantee you though, after Late June there is NO hope for these to be produced for at-least 2-3 years.....! just a warning!!!. with #2 on the way (little nat0'z) there wont be much left in the fuel tank for cars full stop. So if your thinking, 'Ah, I'll get them when I need them, next year sometime.' Id think again!!! These things take up enough time as it is and hence My recommendation to get them while you can. I have a 2+2 on loan to get the long ones finish designed, but Im struggling to do so! cheers nat0

mmm serves me right for not visiting in a while..... Whats the status Rev? nat0

yawn!!!! aghhh....did someone ring??? sorry guys been really busy with work, working on my car and getting ready for another little'ee.... sounds like i have enough to gear up for another batch... Great to hear there is some more cars coming back to life. Ive been doing hatch shut panel sections as any spare time is going into the repair lately. ok guys, to formally advise your intent, get pm's and or emails off to me. I seriously havent even been looking on the forum of late so missing out on any updates, i promise I wont fob off any longer, its just been hectic as, of late. nat0

pictures speak many words!

what??? my last 2 cars were around the mark, both good cars too, but im a either lucky or make my own luck......or just jump on a bargain if its there or likely to ever pop-up....

I have previously confirmed the following. all headbolts and cylinders line up rb-L6. main points of difference -size of cooling jacket ports, head-block -location varies slightly of cooling jacket ports (not alot) -front of rb head to l block almost the same, but need to adapt chain->belt -rear oil drain on RB is massive compared to the L, and needs the most amount of attention, but very do'able. how much money you got? Nat0

Its like the iceberg...... only 1/10 sits above the surface for all to see! its the 9/10ths that will make you go 'Ah For F*/%s S$#E, strip the F/-#*$n Lot' Nat0

AndyK, I must admit I remember reading that book when I was quite a young lad. (still am compared to Paul!) Even at 10 years old I worked out this book was.......well, ........ quite out-dated......(biting my tongue) however I do give that book credit, for explaining basic principals of automotive engineering on a level that a 10 & 13 year old can understand. I do remember going through it twice and learning more basic principals at a later stage as a kid still. Even now I still remember reading it and from there having a need to learn more, hence on my path for future studies, till i am where I am now, and still seek more.... I would almost definitely recommend this book for all other aspects of automotive design, just skip the body repair section......Please, for all of man-kinds sake!!! and especially if you own a car which is already, or likely to be, one-day, a classic/relic. Its also great how this book paints a picture of some of the early variants of modern technology like fuel injection, ABS brake systems, fail-safe braking systems, like in Volvo's etc and many others as a mandate. but of all, the diagrams were easy to read, understand and visualise, even as a 10 year old. nat0

Hi Bud, got any more pics of the main bearing girdle, just after removal? and did you find any key pieces of the piston skirts, from around the small end? indicating any failure in skirt or does it appear rod only? do your logs show any ign timing retardation prior to? and/or afr's issues prior? already it looks like your cradle was a 'passenger' after the failure, check out the harmonic marks its left on cap-face on #6 bearing (between 5&6) looks like the back end of your bearing girdle was a 'tuning fork'....... Bad news, and expensive none the less. Still appreciate the incar footage you still manage to provide, despite a day best left untold!! nat0

um both! I have a new set in boxes and can either sell you mine or the next set.....On their way. check them out, do a giggle search "15x7 superlites 240z" stacks of results. I have pics of mine still in box...on old phone, (just got a new one last week!) comes with centre caps and new nuts.....Wheel nuts! If your serious, I can arrange something depending on how soon you want them landed in WA. nat0

performance superlites brand new 15x7 to suit 240z (+12p offset) from 200 per wheel, cheap as!!! ex adelaide

old hat methods vs new hat best practice. always hard to convert the foagies, most never re-train anyhow, and that includes 'trainers' themselves. If we lived by the old philosophies, F1 would still be steel caged cars, our forum would consist of pen & paper and maybe we would never have discovered light & lasers. boy has the world come a long way in the last 60 odd years....too bad the motor car has not! I would only recommend treatment of raw steel, either phosphate or chromate resultant products. Of which the super etch is one of a handfull of the best there is as far as a 1k ep etch suitable for almost any further surfacing/finishing. nat0

Sorry, meant Sold?

although blurry thats an 11/73 right?

Howdy- Howdy, Definitely a good read. Chuckled, smiled and burst out in laughter, especially with your artisan concrete flusher experiences. Reason I relate these well is also those thoughts you often get after cursing when you find such a mess under what you already thought was not going to be too bad. Thanks for your witty humour and patience to write/type such lengthy, amusing recap of your quick jam job. Oh I thought the RB was a good representation of an FJ? Cross flow and all with cast bottom end? Any way cheers for the laugh, welcome and I look forward to your follow up post. Nat0

Darius, check out the rad supt's they have been dev'd for the 260z, so thats a start!!!! yea? Nat0

Updates....... made a couple of lower sections only, had my balls broken so I got my sh it together!!!! see below the first couple made complete. Back panel of the box section was formed by hand, (not on Ledges bead-roller/swaging machine), as I dont have that machine myself, and the run up the hill was to hard at the time.... This is the early to late 240z-Only, style lower rad support-tie rail. These were made in 3 sections and then fabricated back into a one-piece unit, although I probably wouldnt make them like this again as it took way to many hours to complete. I reckon my first attempt in the first post was the easier way and the finish would be even better....... Enjoy these pics, will add to post # 3 or 4 for 1st page visitors..... Nat0

next batch under way..... (Gav, can mod and do a 'stock length' for you.) I am really surprised how well they have been adopted........(especially the full length floor rails.) I ended up selling my own set (front & floor rails), so I need to replace them both as Im almost ready to start working on my car again after a looong workshop move. But now the hoists are in and up, mezzanine is done and the front car-park is now nearly fully concreted. Really keen to get back into the cars again, especially now im able to get down and work instead of setting up workshop stuff (although a little more to go but not critical.) also got plenty of interested parties in 260Z floor rails.....mmm. any donor cars in adelaide (or surrounding) on a rotisserie requiring them, 2 seater and/or 2+2??? as i need to firm up some dims on the rails as-well as all the bloody humps and joggles in the floor. Check the other Thread 'Lower Rad supports" LINK, for updates as I have done a couple of these in the last week or 2. Cheers Nathan

gordon is 'Spot-ON' the 260z one is straight as pic'd above, 240z appears to hum forward, or some I have seen also hump downwards. Nat0

lean the torch over on an angle, not towards one of the plates, but either pull or push away from last tack. Dont be afraid to leave the trigger on for a moment longer, and pull the the weld if only 3-5mm, but not too long or youll get too hot and the weld will fall through. youll get to the practice stage where you can pull/push a 10mm long weld (after tacking and flushing of course) give it a go on more test plates, youll have nothing to loose. Nat0

Hi Rayven / Pete. can you advise your Zip code etc, and ill look at some freight quotes to Australia, based on 1-2 pairs of cf/f-glass panels. Would you be able to advise a 'shipping size' of the packed up panels, as they would be considerably bigger, given then amount of cardboard req'd. And one last thing, whats the nearest town/city to you so I can look at depot drop-offs instead of courier collect. cheers Nathan

Currently being looked after by fellow Zed member..... goes to show the forum has better finding power than facebook or the po-po!!! one big ups for it. Will await owners response when he gets around to it. Gavin, you should probly edit your post above and remove your email and # Nat0

Normal people no, not really, but I have pulled 2 4 speeds from them, one an early series the other with customised tailshaft an g/box crossmember, not saying they came out with them, but there are many others about, just point of interest. I myself put a 240k box and l24 from a K into a stationwagon as its the only motor and box I had at the time. Had to swap sumps and mod the oil pickup but not a big deal by any stretch..