PZG302

This 240 popped up on Australian Muscle Car sales in my update email this morning........ http://australianmusclecarsales.com.au/muscle/133680-240z-datsun Advertised price is $28k and photos show it to be a good honest car, makes the 240 Dr Datto has a real bargain!!!!!

I might be able to find some tyres for you. One source is the Porche boys' fronts. I'll have a look see at what's about these days at a good price. Anoher option would be some semi's, especially if you can find some Yoki A050's, from what I've been told they are only a second or so off full slicks and last a lot longer.

I won't be there.... :'( :'( Have justr bought a house so the racing budget has to suffer.....Plus I want to race and can't get the licence upgraded in time, so it looks like 2011 for me. I also can't justify the entry fee and the other expenses at the moment for a an hour's run around the mountain, mainly because of the house purchase. Jason, have you fitted up the 18's on the Sports 200 yet? and if so how do they fit? They would fill the guards pretty well. I may also have some slicks soon for that set as I will be going to Yoki A050's hopefully in the new year.

Should be able to come along, and if Dat2kman remembers and sees me on the side of the road can also pick me up so I can help the environment, and have an enjoyable amount of amber beverages

Also George, ignore those uneducated rockapes and their haidresser comments They obviously haven't had the pleasure of driving or being driven in a 5 hard through a set of twisties leaving pretty much all behind. Don't try too hard to sell the Z as you now have the best of both worlds.

Well done on the purchase George, I know you'll like it as I couldn't not have my NA6 after 12 months of ownership. Guess I'll be reading more of you on the other forum

The biggest problem I see is the spray patterns won't be as effective as the standard 280 EFI set up as the injector nozzles are too far away from the ports for all but the wildest biggest revving, >9000 rpm, L series engines. The revs that the L series will run to comfortably don't allow for a set up where the injectors are away from the cylinders to run as well as the standard system does.

Supply and demand......... Another example is old Valiant Chargers, nine years ago I was told I was crazy paying $1,000 for a chugger complete but needing some work. Now days you pay $5K plus for a rusty shell with half the bits missing. With Z's being rarer to begin with, and being sought after the prices will only go one way, and it's not the way I want them to go either as I won't be able to buy another road Z for a long time unless I get rid of another toy or two.

David, If you're on the North side of Brisbane give Gasoline Alley at Brendale a call. They specialise in restorations of old school cars. My Charger is currently there undergoing a full restoration. They have the capabilities to do all the work in house including forming panels as they have the correct english wheels to allow them to roll roofs and so on. As part of my Charger restoration they did exactly what you are after, make and graft in a panel to fill in the hole left by shitty cheap glass sunroff fitted in the 70's-80's. Here's the link to their web site......www.gasolinealley.com.au They aren't cheap, but the quality is second to none and I can't recommend John and the boys highly enough. As well as the Charger resto, they have done general mechanical work on my old AU XR6 ute and also done some fabricating work for my 240 Race car.

If they are in generally good condition with no cuts or tears or contamination then no, but the belts are approaching 40 years old if they are original and the sun does do a lot of damage. For a couple of hundred bucks, what price do you put on your life, or those who are near and dear to you???

All FIA approved harnesses at all levels of circuit racing up to state level have a 5 year extension on the life of the harness. My harness had an expiry date of 2007, it is now valid for all the events I would do up to 2012. As far as I remember SFI accredited harness still only have a two year life. To make sure of the requirements call CAMS.

The final decision could come down to legalities. As the car was originally sold with EFI and to meet ADR's for pollution, your hand may be forced to keep the EFI to meet the relevant ADR's.

Rip the tank out and use a fuel tank repair kit to get rid of the rust once and for all. POR15 make a great kit that is done in basically a 2 stage process, the first cleans out all the rust and scale and the second lot of goop poured in seales the tanks so no new rust will form. From memory the cost was about $100 for the kit and pretty easy to do. I didi my Charger tanks with this and was even able to use it to repair a couple of small holes, about 5mm diameter, in the tank as well.

The XA XB XC Falcon mirrirs look really good on a Z, I have them on mine and they are pretty easy to fit. Just make sure you colour code them to the reat of the car.

First up, what do you want from the motor??? A nice easy streetable fairly standard motor or a modified grunter or screamer??? No matter what rebuild you are doing, don't choose the pistons until you know what the block will need to be bored to, if keeping it relatively stock, or what it can be bored to if you want to go a little wilder. Once that is decided you can then look at pistons. My advice would be to source the correct L28 pistons, either flat top or dished, depending on motor type, and then get the correct oversizing to suit what machining will be done to the block. Standard L28 rods and crank will be fine with little or, if in reasonable balance, no work to be done for a street motor revving to around 6800. What induction will you run, standard twin carbies, triples or injection. This will also influence what needs to be done to make the best of the motor. What condition is the head, I would be getting the head checked for trueness and serviced with new valve springs as a minimum. Make sure all the valves are good, any doubts pay the dollars for new valves, standard will do. Also check rockers to make sure all good. What cam will be used? This will also influence the build and what bits may or may not be needed, for example a wilder cam may need the use of different lash pads to what you have available. Who is doing the machine work and/or build and assembly? If you are outsourcing don't go for the cheapest, go for someone who actually knows L series motors. Spend a bit of time working out exactly what you want from the motor and then plan and budget accordingly. You maybe better off getting a stock motor to throw in the hole until you can get what you want built. A decent motor won't be cheap, but built right will last you for ever with only the need for a freshen up every 150k or so if it isn't thrashed.

A good header design will also do this for you if the primary pipes are designed to be long enough to negate the push back effect before merging into a single system. Then the gases are combined and help drag the next lot of spent gasses out of the combustion chamber. The design of the pipe after the collector is also important for the complete system to work properly. The only stricght six that I know that had a twin system from the factory was the R/T Chargers, and then only the six pack equipped ones and that was for the series production racing rules to allow the race teams make up the best systems they could for racing. The race systems basically went from the header with two pipes bent at about 70 degrees to exit towards the end of the rear of the passenger door at the side of the car. There was no mufflers fitted as straight through systems were allowed in thos days. Also, while there are plenty of V8's with twin systems, a lot of them run a "X" pipe in the system effectively joining them to form a single system. If you must have a twin system on the Z, the easiest way would be to split the system at the back and run the second pipe behind the rear panel from one side to other, or just fit a dummy pipe.

Being a two piece makes it even better for me.... Run it complete at the track and take the bottom section off at hillclimbs where it can be a pain in the pits, just like Noosa where the front spoiler got hammered getting to the marshalling area as it was only about 10mm too low for the access road. If a copy can be made and sent to Brisbane I would be very interested if the cost is reasonable, for my pocket up to double the cost of a MKII spoiler that I have now.

With my first Z, an ex PRC Rally car, we found that the standard Bosch L28 computer was the same as a Jag V12 computer and was able to trick the computer into thinking it was running a V12, therefore able to get moe fuel into the engine. We also used this on my current Z until we got the Haltech F9 for it, quite a few years ago now. I can't tell how it was done as my engine builder at the time did all the white man magic to get the computer thinking it was running a pommie car, but without the usual Lucas Prince of Darkness reliability Jason, Dat2kman, has to run the standard computer in his Sc car and has been playing with the injectors, changing the in line reistance to get them to pump more fuel in. If he sees this thread I'm sure he'll be more than happy to explain what he did a lot better than I ever could.

If you're not doing the work yourself, don't go to a panel shop to get work done unless they do a lot of resto work. My choice would be to find a business that does restoration work and ask them the question. If they can't help, if they are reputable they will point you in the direction of a shop that can do the job you want. As John said, the best way of repairing the rust will have to made after looking at what there is under the paint. For one section a replacement section may be the way to go, but for another section looking the same it may be best to repair. This happened with my Charger. I bought all the replacement sections for the car only to have the resto shop I'm using use half of them and repair the other sections, and it wasn't a constant. Some areas where I though it would be better to use the section were repaired and other areas where I would have repaired it were replaced. Basically to get the job done right you can double what you think it will cost, and then add some more. The Charger is blowing out in cost, but I am getting a top quality job for the money and will have a new car with '70's powertrain.

Don't bother with the Powerglide, if you want a good auto you need the good old Torqueflight from an early Val, even comes with the push buttons Hope the Z32 conversion works, might also be worth looking at a Tremec, Mal Wood at Warwick is the agent. Could be worth getting some specs on size, weight etc.

Would love to replace my MKII front spoiler with that one......WHere do I sign up to get one sent to Brisvegas??

Well, a mixed bag for me at the Noosa Classic Hillclimb last weekend. The good, didn't bend the car, didn't break the motor. The only damage was cracking the front spoiler getting out of the pits when someone wouldn't move so I couldn't get out at an angle. The bad, not having any confidence in the brakes lost me a lot of time, as there was pedal but no retardation. I really need to sort these out. Everything points to the brakes working, but they don't, so some more head scratching for me there. Also not having driven the car in anger for three and a half years I was very rusty and not comfortable in it. By the end of the weekend I was starting to find my feet again and able to have some fun, hopefully putting on a show for the crowd with some sliding around corners and power oversteer out of corners. My best time was a 68, very dissapointed in that, 6 seconds off the pace. I know that there was a few seconds in me and couple in the car, so I should have been a lot closer to John Siddons' times. The fun, the motor pulled better than a 14 year old and I had no problems at all during the weekend, save for the first run where I had a moment and had to get out of the throttle and the car overfuelled badly fouling the plugs which didn't clear until the end of the run, giving me a time of 89 seconds For the rest of the weekend it was all good for me, but a bit frustrating. Should have it sorted for next year..... Just found the photos for the event up on the web, here's a couple of links showing how close I got to having it all end in tears...... http://www.teamfoto.photoape.com/album/photo/index.cfm?albumID=28012&photoPage=85 http://www.teamfoto.photoape.com/album/photo/index.cfm?albumID=28012&photoPage=86

I'll sit down with the finacial controller tonight and discuss it......Looking at buying a house so Bathurst may have to wait until 2011 for me. maybe you better come round and convince someone that I should be doing this, at least then there will be multiple bodies and someone will eventually come looking for you

Already booked up that weekend with the MX5 club.....Otherwise would have loved to have a go, probably in the ute.... The racing Z doesn't allow me to reverse using the mirrors due to the harnesses and limited head movement with the cage. Visibility out the back is better with the hatch up though

Locked diff, no handbrake and a seating position that limits visibility to the rear....... No so good for motorkanas, and with what I did to the MX I am not allowed to take it any where near a track or motor sport event again I have done a motorkana a long time ago and it was great fun, for any Qld members here it is well worth a go and you will suprised how much fun low speed driving can be, especially when a great deal of precision is needed