PZG302

Take it back to trackside to set it up properly if you were happy with their work. Personally I wouldn't take a skate board to get a wheel alignment done by a "Franchise" type shop, especially when they mainly work on shopping trolleys and make their dollars on turn over of cars through the shop. I've been stung too many times. I now pay a little extra for the tyres but get great service and a wheel alignment that I know works, and great follow service if I have any dramas with the tyres, alignment, balance or punctures. If I'm reading the figures right, you have toe out on the rear as well as the front. As Lurch said the rear can get a little taily with toe out, so if possible I would try to get some toe in on the rear through the available adjustment. Also with the loss of adhesion , was it due to too much throttle, ie wheel spin, and you don't have to be hooning to provoke wheel spin. If you are getting too much wheel spin how old are your tyres? Over 4 or so years old they will be starting to get pretty hard with UV attacking the rubber and they will be hardening, also due to heat cycles through the rubber as well. Even though the tyres aren't worn you maybe up for some new boots....

Radios and all the associated crap are only dead weight anyways...... That attitude is probably why my Z only weighs 960kg ready to hit the track and is still all steel apart from fron bar and bonnet.

Not a 260, but heres my set up in my 240, again probably the best set up you can have for a Zed.....

Steve, I'll be home late Saturday arvo, from about 4, and pretty much all day sunday if you want to set the timing over the weekend. Should be home tomorrow, and not too hung over if you're in any condition to drive also

I'm looking at a set of Avon CR6ZZ in 245/60/15. I won't be purchasing them until the Charger is just about to hit the road, hopefully June/July 2010. I was quoted $400 a corner plus freight to Brisbane.

If you could stretch the budget a S2 or S3 AU XR6 with the VCT motor would be very nice. I had a S2 AU XR6 ute with the VCT and was brilliant for towing the Z around and for getting me a round. I only got rid of it when the opportunity came up to jump into my current BF MKII XR8 ute at a price I couldn't refuse. Probably helped that I bought two utes in the one week from the same person, that would have made their figures for the month look pretty good Either of the falcodore types would be a good thing to run around in, another good car would be the last of the Magnas, or 380's as I think they rebranded them, or even better the 4WD Magna.

Jason, Might also be worth giving Billy at Gordon Leven Tyres a call, they are the NSW distributor for Bridgestone Motorsport tyres. I will be using him for the replacement tyres for the Z when I move away from slicks to the A050 and also for the Avons I will be using for the Charger. Last quotes I got with freight to Brendale were still cheaper than what I could get the Yokis for up here and there was no one who could get the Avons I will be using up here.

Yep, Red Hill TAFE run them, jump onto this web site to see when and where they are available........http://bn.tafe.qld.gov.au/resources/pdf/ace-guide.pdf

If you're in Sydney then about the only place to get good parts from is SWM. There are a few other shops in Sydney that can also help, the only other shop I can think of off the top of my head is MIA Engines, details below. If you want a motor to last you have to spend the freight to build it right, whether that be on good quality components or the cost of having someone who knows what they are doing to screw it together right. As the sign said in the wreckers in Mad Max - "Speed's just a question of money - How fast can you afford to go?" These guys may also be able to help.

Steve, Should do as the ignition system was basically the same between 240 and 260.

Steve, will PM you with contact details. More than welcome to wander over for a look see.

No worries Steve. If you need something to look at and take some pictures, my Z runs the 280 electronic dizzy with the module off the distributor body and has the wiring mod to run the standard tacho with no issues at all. I also have the wiring diagram to sort it all out either in the office or the garage. If you need it I can try to find the wiring diagram for the swap for you, it was pretty easy and the original tacho workes fine, just the standard Z innacuracy up around 7000rpm

Steve, I have a points dizzy you can borrow to get your carrunning until you get the electronic one working if you need it. Give me a message and we can sort a time out to drop it over if you want it. Matt

If that's what the owner of the tyre shop runs, and he would have a much better choice than us , then that's what I'd be running. Robbie hasn't been off the mark with any of the tyres I have bought off him, or his advice in terms of race tyres and what it costs him to buy off the state distributors and so on.... He and Tim also do a bloody good wheel alignment as well.

I've had mine for about 12 years and with having it parked for about 6 or 7 have managed to average a couple of hundred km a year, having said that nearly every km was flat out at various race tracls around NSW, QLD and Vic It has done more miles on the back of a trailer or tilt tray than actually under it own steam.......

Steve, 215/45/17 will work quite nice on those wheels and the Z. One thing to watch out for is to "overtyre" the car. Being relatively light weight you don't really need the extra width that can be fitted, say a 235 or 245, like you would with an old Ford or Val. With the 215 you don't have a lot of bag in the sidewall that you would get with a wider tyre and that will help the handling as the tyre won't wobble about with the sidewall flexing, even with a reasonably low profile you are going with. It's always intersting to get onto the tyre manufactures' web sites and have a look at the motorsport tyres and what the suggested tyre widths are for the different rim widths and sizes. It can be suprising as to how narrow a tyre is recommended fitment when compared to road tyres. And also, that wasn't a cat it was a moving wheel chock!!!

Knowing Robbie, he will be looking at the best bang for your buck tyre, so all will be good.

Ahhh, the penny's dropped, you were after tyres for the 17's..... 215's will work very well on a 17.5" wide rim. What profile are you looking at and what tyres has Robbie recommended? When I had my old AU Ute he put a set of Hankooks on it, 235/45/17 and they went very well and were cheap to boot. Basically what Robbie used on his personal ute, so if they are good enough for the owner of the shop they're good enough for me....

A 215 will work as well, I have run upto a 235 on a 7" rim, and have seen 265 squeezed on a 7 as well. As for not ordering any in, more to keep you happy as you get the tyres straight away. As Robbie is an independent dealer it can take some time to get some tyres in, I have had to wait up to a coupleof weeks for tyres for the work ute due to being an odd size and load rating.

Steve, I would suggest a 195 or 205 tyre in either 65 or 70 profile for your wheels, this would cover either a 6 or 7 inch rim. Personally I would go for the 205 in a 65 series, but final choice would depend on tyre availability and budget.

Steve, what size rims are you running at the moment? These will determine what size you need now. If you're running 7" rims you would be looking at about a 205-225/ 55-65/ 14 tyre depending on final aspect ratio you want to run and whether you are too much worried about gearing and speedo.

Nah, you blokes don't no what you're talking about!!!!!! You want to throw in 450lb/in springs on the front and 420lb/in on the rear, plus drop the ride height at least 2" and run a locked diff to make it really handle....... Ohh, and then don't go anywhere but the smoothest of race tracks, and you need to really run slicks with that set up. My advice, before you do anything to the car, get the suspension checked out and replace the bushes with good quality mixture of rubber and nolathane. You do need some flex in the suspension to work well to give the car the flex it needs to handle well. And get a good wheel alignment from a shop that knows what they are doing, not the local tyre reseller. Talk to a few guys already doing sprints and suss out who does the best work in your area and be prepared to pay a bit extra for a decent wheel alignment. If the shocks show signs of wear, get the best you can afford to replace the worn ones and you really only need to replace springs if they are well out of range for what will work, ie riduculously stiff like my set up above. For sprints, even long ones, when you are starting out standard brakes will be fine, I do 10 lap sessions in my MX5 with bog standard brakes and all good. Just make sure that the pads are in good condition and the brakes bled the week before you go out. If the pads are down to half or less, replace with a good set of pads, Bendix Ultimates or equivalent will get you out of trouble on the fronts and the rears will generall look after themselves. Don't worry about power mods until you can't drive the car any faster around the track after a few months of setting it up and really learning how fast you and the car can go. Enjopy the car and don't worry too much about spending a lot of dollars for track work, just prepare it well, spend money on what's necessary, suspension check and wheel alignment, and get out there and have fun.

Revolution racegear used to sell them, but not sure. I'd be letting Google be my friend.

$700 is a bit rich..... I paid $250 for my F54/N42 combo and $200 for my N42/N42 engine. The cheapies are out there, just got to be patient and keep looking

Jason stuffed up...The wheels he borrowed off me for the Sports 2000 are my spare set of 18x8 two piece OZ Wheels from my 240, so we are on the look out for some freebie 18" slicks from anywhere, most likely the Porsche guys as their fronts are the perfect size for the rims, generally I run a 225 to 245 wide 620 to 640 tall 18" tyre with my rims and a 4.1 diff. Jason, I know the Superlites won't fit under my guards, the 8's just fit under as it is, plus the back space is very marginal for my dropped spring seats. Let me know what time your heading through, may need to be a little earlier so I can do a compression test on the Z to see what work is needed over Christmas. After the way it ran at Noosa I'm hoping the fuming was caused by sitting for too long and the run has settled everything down. I will just get the block breather fitted from one of the other engines and run the tubing to the catch tank. I would like to get away with another year before a rebuild with buying the house.