PZG302

There's nothing wrong with a 10,000amp slow blow fuse!!!!!!!

From a user name of a rego plate from an old Ford long gone Happy birthday and hope to see that S130 out on the track soon.

Shaun the work will be top notch, just be prepared to wait a while, the Chugger has to be finished in the next few months.... Also, the workshop fridge likes to be fed Cascade Light at times, though I am slipping with my feeding of the fridge must fix that this week....... The guys there will do a top job for you, and John with the rest of the boys appreciate any classic car that is well looked after, and also goes like stink.

Shaun, if I get to run at Cootha some nice photos to use for marketing at work would be good

They can be converted to the later slip type connection, mine has been. I use the later 260 rear extension to utilise the slip joint output, it does make life easier. Not sure on what's involved though but it isn't too hard as I believe the boys in the shop knocked the conversion over in pretty quick time. I was spoilt by having a pretty good Z workshop look after me when I was racing in the NSW state championship pretty seriously.

My money's on the flasher unit.... Switches tend to get cranky and operate intermittently before they finally shit themsleves. Easy solution Steve, turn it into a race car, then when things like indicators fail, who cares they are only extra weight anyways

Basically throw the motor back in the hole, fire it up make sure the timing is about right, no leaks, or anything that rattles that shouldn't etc, then let it run for about 20 minutes to run cam in and also bearings. Then it's off to the dyno for a couple of hours to tune it and at the same time run it in. As it is a race motor and will only have around 20-30 hours run time, at most 50, before that motor is scrapped and a new block prepared with the current head it doesn't need the few hundred kilometres that a road motor needs. Also helps that the oil is changed before every event, cheap insurance. Unfortunately, I will be out around Warwick in the Southern Darling Downs when it is being sorted on the dyno so won't know how it goes until I get back from work... :-\ May have to ask and crawl and grovel to get that great bloke up the road from me, who races old datsuns, to help out with some transport and housing whist I'm away.....

Called into to see how the build was progressing, and I won't be doing a shakedown run on the 3rd May :'(. As above, the block is sitting waiting to be assembled as are the pistons and rods. The crank has been checked and polished and good to go back in. Last time I called in the head hadn't arrived back from the machine shop, but is now back and looking very shiny and new. Nothing much needed doing, just a little clean up of the chambers to get it breathing a little better than what it did. All going well, I should be looking at getting it back in the hole in the next couple of weeks, and when it get delivered back will be tuned and run in for me so I can go hard straight away at the Cootha Classic, if my entry is accepted, hopefully this year I won't have my entry fee returned...... It will be interesting to see what power it makes and more importantly what torque, though the best dyno is always the stop watch and the track,

My first on the lsit for chasing a modified 240 would be just look at any 2 seater car available, 240 or 260, doesn't really matter if you're looking at one that's got an RB, or for that matter even a modded L series. For the rest of the list, it would be: 2. RUST 3. RUST 4. RUST 5. condition of the body, as well as RUST 6. Overall condition of the car, including RUST 7. How it drives and the RUST 8. the standard of any rust repairs completed 9. any RUST coming through as a result of the rust repairs, and finally 10. Any RUST Generally the mechanicals of Zeds are pretty cheap and easy to fix, as with most restorations. The body is the main thing to look at and with Zeds there is generally plenty of rust to be found. If you can get someone to have a look with you if you're not confident in your own abilities to check a car, then that will help, otherwise its pretty much standard things to check as you would with any prospective old car purchase.

Pretty easy that last one, well for anyone in Australia with a passing interst in cars anyways......

Shaun, don't be suprised if John isn't real interested he has more work than you can poke a stick at the moment. However mention that Matt with the Charger put you onto him and see how you go. It might take a while but the boys their will do a brilliant job.

I run a good quality MINERAL oil with a high zinc content. At the moment I will look at availability of the Penzoil GT 50w oil as it will be suitable for my Charger, MX5 and Z, so makes it cheaper to purchase it by the 20 or 50l drum. The other option I have been looking at for the Z is the Penrite mineral oil. I have found that the L sereis motor likes a reasonably heavy oil, that is something like a 10-50, or for a race motor only a straight 50. They also seem to prefer mineral oils over synthetics, plus a good mineral oil is still cheaper than a good synthetic. I also baulk at paying the stupid dollars asked for the fancypants oils like redline, they maybe very good oils but for mine a waste of money when I'm throwing it away after each event in the Z or changing it every three months or 5000 miles in the Charger, or in a high milage, 210,000km, MX5 where the heavier oil is needed. That's my thoughts on oil and I'm sure you'll get plenty of other advice as well from others.

Off the top of my head, that's about what mine runs, set up by the Z shop about 5 years ago and still going strong in the race car.

As herrods said, for that little bit of insurance on the track, as mine is a track only car. I have run probably about 100-200ml extra oil in all my track cars and have never had a problem with oil starvation. The track cars I have done this for include: Turner Clubman with Toyota 3K motor Stanza SSS 180B SSS 260Z, and 240Z track car

A lot of local governments use them in their fleets, especially for utes that work on beaches, and the results seem to be pretty impressive, ie the ute lasts longer than the lease and can be sold on in good condition. The systems have been around for years and arepretty effective if installed correctly, and like anything else maintained.

I don't, I just run the standard sump and that's it, no oil cooler, no funny baffles or anything else. I just make sure that the oil is a little overfull and that I change it every event.

Greg, should be a 3.9 then... If so I'll take it as a spare, unless Datpilot needs a 3.9. I already have one so will only be being greedy and trying to fill my place with bits.....

Greg, what ratio is the R180??? If it's anything from a 3.9 up to a 4.9 I'll take it off your hands. Matt

Greg, Your post on EFI plenums a while ago covered them. The best manifold yopu can get would be a N47 cast manifold, I believe from the L28ET. The runners are about 1/2 inch longer than the standard L28 manifolds and it has a 63-64mm throttle body standard. The twin butterfly throttles are crap and too restrictive. The NAPS manifolds aren't much chop because of the twin butterly design. Here's the link to you other post. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,4222.0.html Another easy mod to get a decent size throttle body is to use an XF falcon one, diameter of 65mm and a relatively easy mod to do. When you say you are getting the ports done, what work exactly and what are you hoping to achieve from this. My N42 head has had some portwork done, but only cleaning up the ports not opening them up at all because I want to produce torque, which makes the car a lot more driveable for the track. Who are you using to do the engine work? From who I know up here in Brisbane I would recommend Jim Milliner as he is doing my motor the way I want it built to produce the power and torque in the way I want it delivered.

Shan, a well built L28 will give you anything up to 200hp at the wheels and can still be made very streetable and give you good bang for your bucks. You should be able to get change out of $10k for a smartly built motor by someone who knows how to get a lot out of them. They are a different beast to build than the old red 202, or hemi 265. Depending on final spec, you could build a L28 out to around 2.9 litres, depending on how much of an overbore the block will take, use a standard crank, the longer 133mm rods, some custom pistons and some head work, all of this will pretty much all need to be done anyway if you go down the L28ET route. The advantage of the L series route is you don't need to spend money on the hardware for the RB swap. My only preference would be to use EFI with a good after market computer, for mine either Haltech or Motech.

Bluerat, great program, thanks for sharing I had a quick play and it works pretty well spot on for me as I was clocked at Turn 1 at Eastern Creek at 187km/h which I am generally at peak revs in 4th with a 4.1 diff and the program shows my max speed would be 198km/h at 7200 in 4th, which to me is spot on. I think this will definately sort the chaff from the wheat!!!! The speeds definately show what I would expect from my car, not too fast in a straight line to everyone elses figures, but it gets there quickly and can get through corners at high speed.

We also have to look a little bit at the history, from my recollection the event started out as the Z nationals and grew to be the event it is now. Also, isn't it up to the organising club to put on the event they want and only really need to cater for who they want to cater to, ie, their members. They are the ones who are putting in all the work to put the event on so they can put on whatever type of event they want. If people don't like it they don't have to go and they can organise their own event if they want. I have no affliaition with any of the clubs, but having been involved in the Sydney Z club many years ago know what work goes into these things and the number of people who whinge and moan about not getting what they want, but won't put their hands up to help orgnaise anything gives me the shits, and it's applicable to just about any club or organisation.

Should do, or easily made to as they were in 1600's and some 180B's from memory

Greg, flick me your email and I can shoot you acopy of a 280Z Electronic Fuel Injection theory and troubleshooting hand book. There could be a miriad of faults, starting with AFM, but tteh book should sort you out.

Year/Model: 1973 240Z Suspension: Standard struts, spring seats dropped 2". Body Modification: Front guards "pumped" and rear guards have Susuki 4WD "eyebrow flares. rear inner guards tubbed for clearence Comments: Tight fit and wheels need a maxiximum backspace of 100mm to clear spring seats. Rim Brand:Simmons OM18 or Performance Challenger Rim Diameter:Simmons 18" Performance 15" Rim Width:Simmons 8" Performance 7" Rim Offset:Simmons -3mm, performance +4mm Rim Price:Simmons $3000, performave $400 2nd hand Tyre Brand:Yohohama slicks18", Toyo Proxes 15" Tyre Width:225-235 Yoki's 215 Toyos Tyre Profile:30 Yokis, 50 Toyos Tyre Price:Expensive for slicks, about $230 per tyre for Toyos Picture: