PZG302

Shouldn't cost too much more if any to get Stewart to make a set to suit your application based on the existing design, he's really only having to use a smaller diamter pipe. As i've said before, if Andy is still at Penrith Muffler Man, he will build a good set to suit. Mine definately won't work in your application, 2.9 litre motor and built with a 3" pipe all the way through. Cost to get a set custom made will still be arounf the $1500 mark or so.

As the title says, Morgan Park at Warwick will be hiolding a car and bike race meeting the last weekend of September. As part of this meeting the Production Sports Car Racing Association will be holding round 3 of their Enduro series with a one hour race as well as a couple of sprint races for the driver and co-driver over the weekend. I will be taking the green monster out for a run and to hopefully suprise some of the runners up here with their new fangled race cars. I have also managed to twist Dat2kman's arm to have a punt as my co driver for the weekend. For anyone with a PCC or better licence who wants to have a drive the supp regs are now out, and if you only have a 2S licence there will be regularity as well. Other classes running will be Group N tourers and some historic sports cars according to the supp regs. Superkarts and about 5 bike classes will also be having a run. At this stage I may also be trying a superkart out to scare the bejusus out of me on the Friday to help with some weight reduction All in all it should be a great weekend, and it also looks like we will be running on the full 3km of circuit. Here's a link to the Prod Sports web site for some more general info on the Enduro series....http://www.prodsports.com.au/

If the motor you put togtehr isn't what you're after give Paul at Zbits a ring. he will sort you out. Only downside a bit of a drive out of town, but well worth the trip.

Oi!!! leave us middle aged men with MX5's alone......Well maybe not those with NB and NC girly MX5's, the NA would die with Mobil 1 in it, way too thin for a motor with 200k on it!!!!

Your call obviously, but if it was me, and it would depend on a lot that I can't know being up north, I would probably do the trip as long as there are no real hills to worry about and the traffic around me would be fairly light, but I have done some dodgy towing in the past, both through ignorance and taking a well educated guess. If you were in brisbane I'd offer to tow it for you for the cost of fuel and a couple of beers for time. But that far away, I don't think it would be the economic option.

Europecar have falcon utes in their fleet. If they have the right tow bar, heavy duty, they are rated to tow at 2300kg, or 1600kg for the standard tow bar. Depending on how far you need to go, and where, the CX7 would probably cope. I wouldn't cross the range west of Sydney or Brisbane with that set up, but a run for few suburbs would be OK asl long as you're sensible and allow for the idiots.

If you can still find it, I've found the Penzoil GT- the 10-50 mineral oil only, to be very good and at a good price, unfortunately it's getting harder to find than rocking horse poo as it's not brought in any more. If you find some, make sure it has the zinc additives. Shell may have a replacement, but haven't really looked For my new motor in the Z, the engine builder put me onto the Joe Gibbs driven Oil from the states. Not cheap at $120 for six 900ml bottles, but cheap insurance for a race motor. here's a link to their web site...http://www.joegibbsracingoil.com/ The other oil I would recommend would be a suitable Penrite, I will be using this in my Charger and MX5 as they need zinc being older technology motors or high milage, MX5 210,000km and still going strong.

looking good and a lot of effort, will be nice an dlight when you're finished Wheels look good. if you're not too fussed about the guard lips, the fronts lips can be trimmed and the guard pumped out without spoiling the lines. I've had this done to mine to fit 18x8" rims with -2.5mm offset. The rears needed to be trimmed and a small "eyebrow" flare off a Suzuki 4wd screwed to the rears to cover the wheels. Only adds about 10-15mm to the width but covers nicely and doesn't spoil the natural lines of a Z like a ZG flare does.

No because the dizzy also has mechanical advance, hence you need to lock the actual distributor body as described previously. In my NA race motor I don't run vacuum advance, just mechanical, and have had the dizzy regraphed to suit the motor, that is the amopunt of advance is modified from standard by adjusting the amount of movement available.

The MX5 got cleaned up on the Old Pacific Hwy, the investigation into that crash is still to be finalised I believe. The Putty Road is still a good drive, from my last quick trip down it. The Old Pacific hwy was a great drive, but too many people spoilt it, now mainly 40-50km/h I believe. Another good drive up that way is the road from the back of Gosford, west out to Wiasemans ferry through Mangrove Mountain, IIRC.

Why not drive up and gives your's a run, only 20 hours each way if you do it easy!!! And that's the long way......

I'm pretty sure the ECU's are the same for manual/auto as the auto was not an electronic box and the EFI was a simple Bosch system.

For mine, 20mm bigger crown wheel for near 20kg extra weight, there's no way I would bother with an R200. I can pick up just about any R180 ratio, except 5.1, for less than $100. As my car is circuit only, no need for LSD, just weld them up and instant traction ;D For a road car I would chase an LSD with big power, there are a few options about for reasonably cost effective solutions that are still cheaper than putting in an R200.

My 18x8's with 230/650/18 slicks don't rub, but do catch the left guard when I have any lock on the steering, the front spoiler is not on the car and I'm reversing into the garage. When going slowly and putting heaps of lock on to warm the fronts I do scrape on the back edge of the spoiler with any of the slicks I use, anything from a 225 to 235 wide, but more importantly diameter of 630-650. If possible I try to get a 230/650 slick as this gives me about the most clearance I can for the slightly pumped fronts.

Entry is on it's way, may even be needing a slot in each block for a guest driver!!!!

That's easy fixed..... give me the original image in jpg format and I can edit the metadata to be whatever date you want!!!!

And only really worth doing on the front if at all. There isn't much difference in performance between slotted or standard for Zeds. The biggest problem we can have id to overbrake the car. I was looking at getting new calipers to fix the brake problem I have, but at the moment it looks like I can get away with rebuilding my calipers, saves me some big dollars and fabrication work. The new calipers were going to be Wilwood Superlites, a lot bigger than the Dynalites I currently run and will be getting repaired. The rotors with the bigger caliper were going to be a 298mm Alsa rotor, that was vented only. The current rotors I use are standard TP Magna rotors, about 270mm in diameter and depending on cost I usually get standard vented, though currently trying slotted to see what difference it will make to overall performance. With the slotted rotors and my usual carbon metallic pad they make no real difference in performance or wear. Having said that the car weighs 960kg, so is relatively light compared to other categories where slotted rotors are a must, along with the biggest caliper and most number of pistons you can afford.

If you have to ask, you can't afford it..... Seriously, a good motor can be built at an affordable price, <$10k, but as the sign said in Mad Max at the wreckers, "Speed is just a question of money. How fast can you go???" My rebuild was about $11k, but that included all dyno time for the tune, a new clutch, new radiator, and some other bits and pieces and work that needed to be done atthe same time.

I know I'll get shot for this.......But bugger it put me down as well, I'll just have to change exhausts and throw more goop at the slicks to get one more event out of them.

In my experience the 76 cam has worked very well in a couple of motors i've used, the first in a L28 with standard EFI system, wasn't the big pig I thought it would be, but assumed that the injection helped smooth out the power delivery. Car pulled from about 4000 to 7000 with peak power at 6800. That was using a P90 head. You would more likely find the cam too big for the road with carbies than injection, and the 74 or even dropping to a 72 degree cam may be a better option for a car that sees most of its use on the road. I have had a stanza that was running twin webbers and a 76 degree cam and it was undriveable in the wet and felt like a two stroke it was that peaky in the power delivery. In the current spec, L28 block with N42 head and Haltech F9 computer in the 240, we found with the porting work done for more torque than power the 76 cam felt a bit "fluffy" and didn't really work. I now use a 74degree cam which suited my engine much better, power and torque was made in a similar rev range. With the new bottom end and tweak to the head we are making plenty of torque and power with the 74 degree cam, but not sure if the 76 degree cam would be of benefit as the motor has been built for more torque than outright power as I believe that torque is more useful on the track or in a hill climb.

Peter, good to see someone else with a taste for Mopar, I also have a 265 Chugger being restored at the moment as well as my 240. Not sure which one I prefer though, each is better for what I bought them for.

Lurch, why go to the R200??? The extra weight is a killer for bugger all strength. I have used R180's in my 240, just weld them up and away I go, haven't broken one yet in about 10 seasons of hard racing. The only time I had one fail was when a customer tipped it over emptying the oil when it was on the floor waiting to be put in, even then it did 10 laps of Amaroo Park before it let go!!!!! If you want a 3.9 diff I have a 3.9 R180 open diff you can have, just need to get it Melbourne from brisbane, I'm sure Jason will find room when he runs at Sandown. You just need to get a LSD centre to go with it, or for track only weld it up. The other advantage is cost, the most I have had to pay for an R180 has been $150 and that included being couriered to Brisbane from country victoria. There also seems to be a better variety of ratios readily available compared to the R200, I have 3.9, 4.1, 4.6 and 4.9 diffs.

For safety reasons alone I would never run a locked diff on the road, and then you have all the problems with the axles winding up and tyre wear and the extra noise and clunks and so on. An R200 should be able to withstand a fair bit of power and torque, they aren't that much smaller than a nine inch, and I have seen R180's used in some pretty potent sports sedans over the years.

Being in Sydney, try Penrith Muffler Man. If Andy is still there he makes brilliant systems and extractors. The extractors and system on my 240 were made by him, and I will be getting the exact same done when they need replacement, they would be around 15 years old and still going strong, even with the thermal wrap on them.

Gotta ask, why would you want to make a Monaro rear 1/4 panel at all!!!!!!!