PZG302

To drive it anywhere he raises the height of the coil overs he has fitted, well I hope he does........

Don't think so!!!!! I know which way the track goes, and now it's even wider than I remember it from supporting the Super Tourers Looking forward to the run and to see how long it takes me to get back in the groove, shouldn't be too long if I could get the MX round QR pretty sharpish.....

Mmmm.... 62's, gives me something to aim for on the 2nd November at Lakeside. With the good tyres on 18" slicks, and washed in traction V, hope to get down to 61's and maybe even crack a 60. Will have to see how we go as I haven't driven the Z in about 3 years and need to bed everything in as well as me..... Car is on the dyno on Friday and quiet exhaust will be fitted on the weekend along with front brakes and bleeding the system again!!!!!

How much power, depends on your dyno operator......A good operator should be able to give you what ever power you want Will be intersting to see how you go Ash. Mine is on the dyno for it's tune in a coupleo f weeks after putting my old N42 head onto my stroker bottom end, I'm hoping for around 135-140 rwhp on the dyno I'm using, will be roughly equivalent to 150rwhp on a dyno dynamics based on previous results.

Pfft.... what an easy subject, Dice. There is only one film to make..... a short road trip in a Valiant with fluffy dice hanging from the windscreen. If only my Chugger was finished....... :-\

Gav, I should have some suitable photos of mine in mid November from Lakeside and Noosa and can put something together on my racer, built to different specs than Shane's, for different rules 2b Marque Sports rather than his much freer Targa spec and a lot more freedoms than the Historic Group Sc boys.

Even well into Group C days a lot of the cars raced at Bathurst were road registered as the race spec was very close to what rolled out of the dealers. A lot of the photos of cars running in the mid '60s to early '70s will show cars running with number plates on the track. A lot of the racers used the run from Sydbney or Melbourne up to Bathurst to run in motors for the race weekend.

Depends on what you want, the rubber will give a lot more than the urethane bushes will. In my circuit car I run a mixture of rubber and urathane as there are some suspension components you want a bit of give no matter how stiff the rest of the set up is.

Dat2kman on here is able to get gear sets from Japan and has played with plenty of these boxes to work out the best setup and ratios, when he puts his head in here I'm sure he'll be able to help out.

Have no idea, they were on a L28 I picked up to rebuild for a spare race motor. They need a bit of a clean up as they have surface rust, but are strcuturally sound. You're quite welcome to pick them up and take them away, they're only taking up room in the garage as I can't use them, too small to replace mine.

Or you can do what I've done and convert the flange output to the later type using the later gear box rear extension housing.....

From memory 1600 handles will fit and maybe 1200 and 180B, but I've had a drink and a sleep or two since I've had to worry about door handles for a Z

Don't know about what effect a motorkhana will have on tyre pressures but I do know that in a 5 - 10 lap race the slicks will grow from 22 psi to about 26 psi and if the wheel alignment is good the temperature across the tread of the tyre should be resonably even. Previously I have gon eon the tread wear and where the rubber balls up on the tyre, though now I have access to an infra red thermometer I can start to be a bit more precise. Also I always over inflate the tyres before the day and then at the last moment, or within 10 minutes of heading out drop the pressures to what I need for cold pressures and check the hot pressure as soon as possible when I get off the track. The tyres you are using will also influence what pressures to run and you will need to adjust the pressures slightly depending on the age of the tyre and what tread there is left and also the surface you are running on will have an effect as well. About the most important tool you can take to a race meeting is a good tyre pressure gauge, for example I would hate to have to replace mine as its a Longacre guage, that when I got it 10 years ago was over $100, and is very accurate as well as easy to read and only goes up to 50psi with the ability to accurately adjust to 1/4 psi increments due to the size of the scale on the dial. The weight of a car will make a big difference. For example my cars and the pressures run for different tyres are: XR8 Ute - OEM Dunlop Sport SP 3000's 245/45/18's - 40psi all round, rears to 42psi when towing race car Mazda MX5 - 15x6 wheels with 205/55/15's - 32 psi for road and 34 psi for track 240Z race car - 18x8 with 245/35/18 radial slicks - 22 psi all round 240Z race car - 15x7 with 225/50/15 Toyo Proxes RA1- 26 psi all round Valiant Charger - 15x7 with 235/60/15 Yokohama 352- 38 psi front 40psi rear The weights of the cars plus tyre types make a big difference to what I run in pressures. The slicks and semi slicks have very stiff sidewalls so I can get away with less pressures, however if I was to run the Toyos on my Charger than the pressures would need to be up around the 36-38psi due to having an extra 500 or so kg to deal with over the Z, as it's at 960kg with 40 litres of fuel on board. The road tyres need the extra pressures to help the side wall not flex, especially when loaded as in towing, this also helps with not overheating the tyres as the extra load will cause more flex and therefore heat which will reduce the life of the tyre dramatically. Depending on what I am doing at the track, and which car, I will sometimes chack the tyre pressures at every opportunity, other times it's set and forget a the start of the day.

Rev, pity you're in Mexico, I have a set of headers sitting in my garage just taking up room you could have :-\

As an ownere of both at the moment..... The 5 is great fun and a car that my partner likes to drive and be driven in. My 5 being a very early one has the short nose crank, but if serviced properly, this is not an issue. My car has 205000km on the original motor and will go for another 200k easily. The suspension is stock, but handles very well. The best bit was the price, $5k, and I don't have to worry about where I park it or it something happens to it at that value, plus insurance is dirt cheap. The Z is a more hard core driver for me, well all the Zeds I have owned are either racers or ex racers and weren't popular with passengers, or others used to more creature comforts. Keep the Z and spend not a lot on an early MX, and when the bug bites, modify the MX. Just be careful with what model as turboing a NA is cheap and easy, but I'm not sure on legalities.

Nothing wrong with an MX5, they're cheaper to buy than Z's and you don't have to worry about anyone having put a sun roof in it allready

Simon, the big wing will definately work. My 240 had a RX7 Group C bird bath when first built for 2B Marque Sports and it could be driven flat through turn 1 at eastern Creek, the duck tail won't let you go anywhere near that quick. I know Dat2kman, Jason will have some moulds soon, and I have a spoiler. They do need to be modified to sit best on the car, and need to be done as a three piece to work properly. You should get yourself to brisvegas so we can get the aero you need working

Don't know if i can make that, I might be in WA sitting on a train between Port hedland and Newman, and i still need to get the Z onto the dyno now the throttle linkages are sorted and I've had some other bits and pieces sorted out. I know the noise meter won't like it, and may even struggle with the quiet system.

Was supposed to take the Z for a shakedown at QR yesterday but had some dramas with the throttle linkages for the dyno tune so I took the MX5 out instead. Bog standard 1.6, except for Genie headers and 2" exhaust with Bridgestone RE001's that are still at 80% tread depth, set to 34 psi cold, and standard brake pads. The shocks are I don't know how old or what rates, just know they are pretty close to stock, if not the originals adn the car has 205000 on the clock with the original untouched motor. Got down to 1:08's on the Sprint circuit and cracked a 1:11 on the Clubman circuit. Pretty chuffed with those results. Ended up running 16-17th in a field of 31 with everything from out and out track monsters through to stock road cars like mine. The MX felt like it was driving on a sponge with the tread squirm from the road tyres, though I was impressed with the even wear I got. Whoever did the whelle alignment last, before I bought it in December 2008, did a good all round alignment. Looking at Jason's times, the Z should be good for around 60 to 61 sec's on the Clubman circuit once I get full throttle. Will also be looking forward to driving a car with a lot more support in the seat, my shoulders are very stiff from using the steering wheel to hold me in place and both thighs are bruised from bracing against the transmission tunnel and arm rest on the door. Only had 2 spins, so wasn't really trying hard eneough......

If I was in Melbourne I probably would have taken them off your hands, however 1800km doesn't make it easy, plus the other half would shoot me if I turned up with another 2 L28's to fit beside the others in the garage. Good luck with the sale, someone will have to want/need them....

I know where there is a good S130 2 seater for sale in Sydney if your keen for something that goes like a scalded cat. If I had the spare cash, and room, I would have snapped it up months ago.

Only if you put a turn bay at the bottom, mine wouldn't get in your driveway past the gates........

One of those horrible Chook Cooker things that should see said purchaser banned from here for life!!!! ;D

Fair go!! It's his car he can have whatever he wants fitted to it or how. Personally I don't agree with V8's in Zeds, or RB's for that matter but I don't go around asking the owners to put an L series back in them. If the mods are too ricey for you, then too bad, suck it in and as my mother would say... " If you can't say something nice don't say anything at all...." This type of attitude is what has turned a lot of people off car clubs in general and it was something I hoped wouldn't happen here.

I know for sports sedans quite a few years ago the rules where changed that the any new 300ZX and one of the MR2 models could only run in Sports Sedans with retrictions on motor types. From memory the 300 could not run the VG30DETT, hence the going to a V8. I'm not sure whether Keith Carling's car can still use the VG or not. I think that would be up to an individual ruling from CAMS and what has happened to it, unless we wait for about 15 years and then it will be eligible to tun as a Group U car