PZG302

Well here's a couple of mine. The first heading off to a static display, hence the big wheels are fitted. The second having a run at Mt Cotton Hill Climb, I really need to get some soft pads, carbon metallic brake pads DO NOT work cold!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I'm pretty sure he is concentrating on the tyre side of his business now, but even if he can't do the work for you he will be able to point you in the right direction, which will probably be to Fulcrum.

Steve, for what your looking at doing Fulcrum would be one of the best shops in Brisbane. The only other place I would try would be Z Car Workshop in Underwood, Alan really knows his stuff having susccessfully built raced and rallied Zed's for years. Matt

I run 8" rims with slicks and as much castor as I can for racing and the steering is heavy. Depending on if you have grown up with power steering or not will be the deciding factor on how heavy the steering is. Personally I haven't found a Z yet with heavy steering, then again I grew up driving old falcons and valiants with 7 and 8 inch rims no power steering and sports steering wheels, gave me arms like Popeye

With 100mm back space I can fit 8" rims under my guards that have bben rolled and the fronts slightly flared. The spring seats have been dropped to give me a lower ride height with the same distance for travel and I use spring rates at around 420-450lb/inch. This is for a circuit 240Z with the weight at 960kg plus 100kg of me.

Good to see you've come to your senses.... Enjoy the project, and the only piece of advice I can offer, besides not selling, is to decidse what you want and then stick to the plan.

Nope, just an XL, but try to find a Charger these days.....Especially one that can be restored. No offence taken, and I knew the dollars would be steep, I was thinking around $25K, but I got talked into a few more things to finish it off properlyand make it something really special. Also not worried about the dollars as I won't be selling it unless someone offers me a stupid amount of money. I reckon the owner of the Z would have been in the same boat, otherwise why spend the dollars on a leather interior and so on. I have been in the same position before and vowed to never sell any more cars, no matter what the cost.

Don't know about that, a full checque book resto could easily spend that much to do the lot. I just had a planning meeting with my restorer for my Charger yesterday. I have already spent $10k on the body, another $8k in bits and pieces for the car, my study doesn't have much room at the moment with the parts being kept safe and sound, and I'm still looking at spending another $30-$35k to get it on the road. There's another $15k in the body and paint alone, $6-7k for the motor, another $1k or so for the drivetrain if we can use what parts I already have, $1k to rebuild the brakes, and the rest to put it together, so the dollars add up quick if you want a good job done. With $56k spent he's still copping a fair loss on the investment, I would hate to be in his position to have to sell what looks like a very nice car.

For an old school rim like centrelines, the trading post or e-bay would be your best friends. Search under centrelines and cull out the ones that won't fit rather than look for datsun or nissan.

Don't sell you'll only regret it later!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I had a ZG Fairlane that I had to sell, needed a bit of work but couldn't see myself getting around to do it, I now wish I never sold it, it was one of the best old school cruisers you could want for. My 240 hasn't seen the track for nearly 8 yeras, but I won't be selling it, currently only just looking at getting it back together and sorted now. I also have a Charger that I bought in 2000, was going to be a six week rebuild, but 7 years later it finally got into the shop for the body work and now after another near 12 months will go back to be finished with the help of a loan. Don't get too disheartened, and always look to what it will be when finished. It doesn't matter how long it takes, just stay with it and it will get finished. Once it's on the road you will never regret sticking with it to completion.

I'm not letting you any where near my cars!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :o

I have toyed with the idea of dropping a Z shell onto a 720 4WD chassis and converting the rear area into a ute tray, removing the hatch, enclosing the cabin from the top of the hatch opening down and having enough room in the back to fit an esky or two

I'm one of these so called Neanderthals with a V8 ute, and about to get some work done and I own a ZED, so what do I do now???

Why not chase up an R180?? For the high speed salt lake type work you won't be putting the torque loadings through the diff that you would with a shorter ratio, so shouldn't have to worry about breaking them. Plus I've found the difference in strength between the R180 and R200 for a circuit car to not warrant the extra weight of dragging around the R200.

Easy out, hope that's the right spelling, and then Helicoil works fine, my first L28 had a couple of bolts let go trying to get the head off and once done never a problem for another 4 seasons of fairly hard racing.

When Eastern Creek was running on the main straight, I'd do it in about 9 or 10 sec, but I was starting at the top of the hill with a bit of a run up :

I'm in Brisbane, but the 240 lives in Sydney, just waiting for a freshen up to get back onto the track.

If it was in Brisbane I think it would be mine. That is the perfect stage to build a great circuit or rally car. Enough of the hard work has been done in terms of suspension and brakes and body work, leaving the new owner plenty of scope to put in what they want in terms of seats gauges driveline, springs shocks etc. $8500 is bargain with the body work and suspension done if it has been done to the standards the photos show.

I do not need to know this I need to get my 240 back on the track and the Charger finished... I don't have room, I don't have room, I don't have room..... I can't justify the money.....I can't justify the money.....Ican't justify the money....... The missus will have my balls.....The missus will have my balls.....The missus will have my balls..... I think I have almost talked myself out of it..

The flat top Hitachis were used on the 260's when stricter emission controls came in in California. They are basically a pollution carbie that lost a lot of power because of the new emission controls. Because of the market size in California the rest of world pretty much had to suffer as well. Similar situation for Australian cars in 74 with ADR 27, the pollution one that crippled power outputs of the Holden, Ford and Vliant motors at the time.

If that is the backspace measurement, ie from the back edge of the rim to the mounting face then they should fit fine. I just had a set of 18x8's made with a 95mm backspace to fit my suspension which has lowered spring seats on the struts and I can go a maximum of 100mm for backspace so you should be OK if the car has standard suspension or coil overs.

I wired mine up using this diagram I got off Classic Z forums, I think. Anyway worked a treat and no issues with the standard tacho at all.

200hp at the wheels is pretty unrealistic for the set up your looking at unless you have big dollars. One of the guys up here in Brisbane running an SC 280Z gets 196 rwhp on his L28 with injection. He has spent a lot of money on cranks, rods pistons, inlet manifolds, etc etc, about $15k to get there. My race motor, L28 bored to give me 2.9 litre capacity with P90 head, ports cleaned up to match standrd manifold, that has also been cleaned up, electronic dizzy and big 76 degree cam get just under 150rwhp. The big advantage of my motor is the torque, a very flat torque curve showing between 650 and 700 lb on the dyno dynamics dyno sheet between 3200 and 5200rpm. Peak power is at around 6200 rpm. I could chase the magic 200rwhp, but don't have the budget for that type of expensive motor, and I feel there are better gains in track times by chasing the handling in the car. Plus all dynos can be tweaked to give you figure you want to read, and some unscrupuless operators will tune the dyno rather than the car to give the power figures you want to see. In reality the only true dyno is the stop watch. I have had my car on two different dynos, the second run with new leads, dizzy cap and better inlet piping, less restrictions showed 20 hp less and in better conditions, ie cooler weather.

They're the revs I would expect for a stock cam, good torque and power from 3-5. A bigger cam will raise the revs at which the power drops off, but then your torque curve gets peakier and comes in higher. A good torquey motor will always blow away a peaky motor in the real world.

With mine on injectionand a 76 degree cam the power falls away at about 65-6600 rpm. I use a max of 6800 by the tacho, probably about 7200. That's where the motor changes note to the horrible scream that says go up a gear.