PZG302

Measure what space you have to mount them and if they will fit hit the wreckers or e-bay and look for falcon or commonwhore fans. genearlly twin and generally pretty cheap. Go to supercrap and buy the temeprature control switch as a seperate part and wire in yourself. Should be able to pick up AU Falcon twin fans for about $140-150.

Also depends on the motor, my motor won't compete with one of Stewart's, but mine costs a lot less to build than one of Stewart's Also it may have a lot of top end power but what is the torque like??? Knowing Stewart's work they will be torquey, but for some builders all they chase is a number that can give a not very user friendly engine, an example being a rotary, they may make a scary power figure, but at scary revs, generally have no torque in comparison and need to be driven a lot differently than say a big six or eight with a bucket load of torque, but may not have an enormous amount of power. Well prepared motors with the best of everything will always outperform a pretty standard spec motor no matter what cam is in it.

I think the expected power figures for the 72 degree cam maybe optimistic. I'm getting 150 rwhp with an injected L28 with 76 degree cam running Haltech F9 with turbo throttle body, 62mm diameter, and log plus regraphed 280ZX electronic dizzy. Using the accepted 25% loss through the drivetrain that gives me 200hp at the flywheel. But as we all know the only true measure of power is the track I do know that my car will put out 300hp with the right dyno operator........ As 260 said the only real way to check is multiple runs on the same dyno at the same conditions to get the relative changes in power.

Scando, just quoting from the CAMS info, so maybe up to the individual inspector or if you are using the manufacturers' certification for the cage. Also the rules for cages keep changing, my cage would never be legal now, but as it was legal when originally log booked it will always be legal in that particular car only.

Why not look at building and certifying your own cage. If you use the specc'd materials and standard design template you just fill in the form and it is certified with no need for testing. If you use a kit cage it must be bolt together as no welding can be done once it leaves the manufacturer. I have attached the information pack on certifying a cage for you. Further info is on the CAMS web site.

With the side mounts you'll be able to get the seat as low as you need and pretty much as far back, just remember to weld some decent size plate, 50-75mm wide and at least 2mm thick to the floor to brace it all up, for me that would effectively be two pieces front to back and then two side to side at the four holes in the floor and stitch welded to the floor pan. I'm 6'1" and 110kg so need plenty of room, but can fit quite easily with the seat as it is mounted now to the floor. In fact the seat is a little too far back, about 1/2" to 1" so it's a bit of a stretch to get full throttle, but everything else falls to hand nicely, plus not many others can drive the car which is always a good thing As for the cage, I'd look at Brown Davis, closer to you than Bonds. Also I know of a couple of cars where their roll bars didn't fit and took a fair bit of work to make fit. At one stage the doors couldn't be closed. If your going to log book the car as well then you will also have to make sure that the cage can be certified if you install yourself.

The better seats, Sparco Velo Cobra will have mounts available that will bolt to the floor and get the seat down low. These will generally be easier than trying to mount the seat to the original rails. These will mainly be side mounts and will take a bit of fiddling to get the seat where you want it. What type of cage are you looking at, 4 point, 6 point, 6 point with intrusion bars? The main concern for clearance will be the intrucion bar design. My intrusion bars are just above the sill, so aren't to bad with interfering the seat. A more traditional angles bar would cause more problems for the seat and for me getting in and out.

I reckon the way to go, whoever you get to do the porting can take their time to get it right, plus the N42 only really needs a clean up to flow well. Not sure on carbies, but I haven't bothered with polishing the inlets as I want some turbulence in the flow for the air/fuel mix. Injection sprays the fuel in a much more atomised fashion than carbies will, plus only when needed in comparison to the fuel delivery of a carbie.

Don't worry too much, just start looking for an N42 head to go with it. They are out there, I picked one up complete a few weeks ago for $40 of e-bay. Getting a seperate head will give you the advantage of building it to suit the webbers with some match porting for inlet and exhaust, plus new valves and heavier duty valve springs which for a road motor with the occaisional track day will last you for years. Once all that is done whip the old E30 head off and replace with the N42 for an immediate smile P90 would be nice, but unless you will be putting a snail on it you need to shave too much off the head for good compression. The N42 built right will flow just as well. I found that on my L29 the P90 I was using flowed less than the N42 I put on because of the P90 being designed to run the puffer. The N42 flowed better for the same amount of work. I run injection on mine, standard turbo log manifold, throttle body is around 62mm diameter and log is square, not tapered like the NPAS manifold or standard L28 manifold.

Lurch, Two seats I have used in my Z are an RPM seat, now being replaced, and a Sparco. The RPM seat was not a bad seat for the price, narrow enough to fit in the Z, but ended up offset to the left to clear the cage. Seat is comfortable and offers plenty of support for circuit work, but would be very uncomfortable for use as a daily. The other seat I am using is a Sparco Evo. again should fit, but will be offset to cleat the cage. Seems to be more comfortbale than the RPM seat and offers a bit more support and seems to be a better construction. The Sparco is FIA approved which means no hassles at all with any scrutineer when they see the sticker. Also means you know the standard of construction and that it should protect you in the case of a prang. Most of the better quality seats are FIA approved anyway so shouldn't be a problem in finding one. Also, personally I would avoid buying second hand as you can't be 100% sure of the history of the seat and whether it has been fitted incorrectly, been in a prang, or been abused in other ways, eg solvents on it and so on that may wekaen the structure. As for price, get the best you can afford and don't scrimp, same as harnesses. The seat and harness do a pretty important job in the event of the unthinkable. Personally I spend as much as I can afford on the safety side of the car. The Sparco seat on got when Revolution Racegear had a clearence a coupleof years ago, so I would wait til June/ July when they have their sales and pick up a demo or superceded model for about $5-600 per seat.

I'm lucky in that the Z is my circuit toy, so doesn't get used a lot. Hopefully will have it home sometime in April. My daily driver is the bus generally but I also have an XR8 ute for long distance driving and towing. I also have an MX5 for reunning around in, a great fun car that is easy on the fuel, but I do have to be consience not to spend dollars modifying it as that takes away money from my Charger that is currently under restoration. Being single I am lucky that I don't need more than 2 seats, so I can get away with the toys

The Prod Sports series is for 2B, and $200K is cheap I know how much some of those guys have spent on building the cars and how much they cost to run, very scary for me, so mine will run in hillclimbs and I'll buy a 2F MX5 in the next coupleof years to play circuit racer again.

Can't run in improved production unless it's a 2+2 as it is seen as a sports car and not a touring car by CAMS and the FIA. 2a is for open or closed sports cars. Basically pretty much anything goes as long as it's under 6000cc in engine size and has a 2 seat body that meets specified minimum sizes as per the CAMS manual. Marque sports, or 2B is for production sports cars of which a certain number have been produced for sale to the public and are also on the eligible car list amended from time to time by CAMS. 2B has a fairly strict rule structure, that does allow some freedoms in material for body parts and modification to the suspension. Mechanically a 2B car must run the same motor type as the standard car, for a Z that means L series block and head that came off an L series block, so the cross flow FIA heads are eligible, if you can find one. Also gear boxes must have the same number of ratios and use the standard housing, but the gears themselves are free. Basically Ash's car can run as a 2A car only, but can be invited to run with other categories if invited by the meeting organiser. I know in NSW he would not get an invite to run in Prod Sports at the moment. In Qld he would be able to run as the state series is a combination of 2A, 2B and 2F cars. In hillclimbs and sprints the car would be classed as a 2A sports car and run as such. Problem nowdays is that a Z built to 2B rules is not competive any more, and will never be competitive in 2A with the one offs running there.

What size throttle body does the manifold have?? There are three types I know of and the one you want is the single 63mm turbo one. There is a smaller single and dual stage twin hole as well, and they are generally not interchangeable between manifolds.

As the others have said it depends on what you want to do and what class you want to run. If you want to run competitively for not a lot of dollars in hill climbs and so on, then there Leyburn and others will put you in classes depending on whether the car is log booked or not. If it is then it will run to the class it was built for, if not then will run in a generic sports car class based usually on capacity. In this case the flares won't be a problem. If you want to go circuit racing under CAMS sanctions then you need to look closely at the category you want to race in. Best bang for your buck in Qld would be Group Sc in Historics, very strict on what's allowed and what's not. In Sc the flares are a no no as are most modifications, however the guys up here are pretty competitive and would be more than happy to help you out building the car right. If you want to modify the car then build it for Group 2B or 2F sports cars if you want to keep the L series motor. If you want to go to RB or SR motors then you can run as a 2A car. Downside with the freer categories is that it becomes expensive to play competitively in 2B or 2F, I don't care what anyone says, a Z built to 2B rules will be blown away by most of the modern 2B and some 2F cars running around today. Up side is that pretty much anything goes as a 2A car and about the only restrictions for a 2B car are L series engine, 5 speed Datsun box, standard suspension type, and 10 inch wide wheels.

As everyone else had said, unless it's a serious race motor, you don't need an oil cooler. My 240 has raced for about 10years without one and no need to fit one for it, I just use a good quality oil and change regularly.

One wheel supplier come to mind straight up.... Simmons wheels. A set of 17x7 will set you back around $675 a corner plus delivery. Advantage is they will be made to fit your exact requirements. If you are in Sydney there is also circletrack wheels out at seven hills that should also be able to help you out with what you're after

I'll throw my 2 cents in..... It's your car, DO WHAT YOU WANT TO IT!!!!! If you want to modify it, then modify it, don't listen to any one else. If you want to keep it standard, then keep it standard. It all depends on what you want to get out of the car. If you want to make money from it, you bought the wrong car for this country You need a XY GTHO or HG Monaro for that, and even then you should have bought it at least 5 years ago before prices went insane. If you want to enjoy it, then enjoy it and do what you want to it. My 240 is a late 1974, does that make it deirable because it's one of the last? Who cares, it was bought to be built as a race car, so is modified way beyond what is now legal for the road and can't be bought back to standard anyway, I only have an L28 in it because the rules for 2B say I must use the engine block for the car and 240's were homologated with L28's.

These should qualify as vintage, about 10 years old and now no good as the rim is too soft to re roll.

Bugger, beaten to the punch and I'm in Brisbane 2nd gear syncro is always gone in a Z box, I've raced mine for about 6 seasons with a shot 2nd gear syncro, only now just being fixed whilst the box and motor are out of the car

But they are period, well the closest I could get to a period style wheel from Simmons. I really like the BBS style mesh wheels from the late '70's into the '80's

Not vintage, but these will work nicely for me...... 18x8 OM18 Simmons.

Maynot be what you're looking for, but in mine I run a VL turbo radiator, 3 core. In my opinion the older motors seem to run best with the older style radiators, ie not the new aluminium ones, plus the older styles radiator is generally cheaper and easier to repair. I run a stroked L28 with turbo log, standard injectors and electronic dizzy controlled by Haltech F9 computer. I get just under 150 rwhp and a mountain of torque, 640lb according to the dyno sheet from 3000 to 5250 rpm. The car runs an electronic fan that I only switch on when sitting on the dummy grid waiting to go out. Once moving it doesn't get hot at all, but then I'm not sitting in traffic. I find the time taken to get to temperature can take a little too long for my liking in winter, but summer isn't a problem.

I have to ask why?? Especially as I own both a Z and a Charger. The 265 is a good motor, but for high power applications is an expensive motor to build with some pretty bad weak points, cam float and oil pump drives being the main ones. The hemi is a pretty expensive motor to get reliable horse power out of, I changed plans for my Charger when I looked at the cost of building a reliable race hemi to get about 350Hp at the wheels, anything up to $20K to make sure it wouldn't go bang first time out The good old L series is also a bit lighter and is built better from the factory thanks to better tolerances that the Japanese could do compared to the factory in Tonsley Park, no disrespect to the guys at Chrysler as the Hemi was by far the best motor developed in Australia for production cars, especially for the time.

Here are mine.... Beer: Boag's Premium, or any of the Boags stable, or Cascade Light for a couple of beers after golf at the 19th Spirit: Jameson's Irish Whiskey, Silver Label, or a good Single malt scotch if pressed Mixer: Bundy with either dry, bitter lemon or Ginger beer, Vodka lime and soda, vodka tonic or G&T Wine: Good dry white in summer or a nice heavy red in winter General drink: Coke, tonic or soda with fresh lime or lemon