PZG302

My comments would be to KISS, no keys, just a master switch and then switches for the ignition?ECU and fuel systems. The others such as lights (headlights, tail lights) on its own circuit, brake lights a separate circuit, wipers a separate circuit. Also look at doing things like running the brake lights in series so the circuit would go one wire from positive power through fuse or circuit breaker to the brake light switch at pedal box to the first brake light globe to the second brake light globe to earth. I would also look at instead of fuses using circuit breakers for not so critical circuits but where you want to be able to reset and use again, such as wipers. I will be doing the PDM path for the S14 as the ECU, dash and the associated wiring costs mean the extra for the PDM and incorporating the rest of the wiring harness make it worthwhile. So I will have a switch panel mounted within arms reach, probably on the transmission tunnel and then a the big turn it all on and off switch panel near the base of the gear shift, again within easy reach, and the start button will be as big as practicable so it is easy to find and push with a gloved finger. Also make sure the power isolation works as per the CAMS requirements (in bold below) and take this into account in your wiring design. SCHEDULE C Each automobile in a circuit race (except a superkart) shall, of necessity, in addition to the provisions of Schedules A and B, be fitted: (a) only with laminated glass in any glass windscreen. Windows, including windscreens, shall not be coloured or tinted unless fitted as standard to a production automobile and compliant with AS2080; (b) with wheels and tyres in compliance with Schedule E. No tyre shall have been retreaded, recapped, repaired or re-conditioned in any way; © with bodywork which generally encloses (when viewed from above and each side) the chassis frame and basic mechanical elements, from the front of the automobile rearwards at least as far as a transverse vertical plane immediately to the rear of the driver’s seat; (d) with not fewer than two functional rear vision mirrors each of at least 50cm²; (e) with a fuel tank as specified in Schedule N; (f) only with such replacement seat which in closed automobiles first registered with CAMS after 1 January 1980, and in which the relevant regulations permit the replacement of the driver’s seat: (i) incorporates a head restraint; and (ii) does not incorporate adjustment of the rake of the squab. The use of a seat to the FIA 8862-2009 Advanced Racing Seat standard is recommended. Where a seat to this standard is required, the seat shall be used with the seat mount bearing the same FIA homologation number unless an alternative seat mount has been homologated by CAMS, in which case that seat mount may be used. Additionally: (g) Where an automobile does comply with the Australian Design Rules (ADR) for seat mountings, the seat shall be mounted to the main structure by not fewer than four grade 8.8 bolts of minimum diameter 8mm. Where the seat is affixed to an un-reinforced section of the floor pan, each attachment point shall be reinforced by the use of a plate of not less than 75mm x 50mm x 3mm; (h) On each automobile, other than those of the 5th Category, fitted with an electric fuel pump, the pump power supply must cut off in a maximum of six seconds after the engine stops; (i) Each automobile of the 2nd and 3rd Category shall be equipped with a battery isolation (master) switch which isolates the battery and stops the engine, and: (i) it shall be capable of being operated by the driver in his normal seated position; (ii) there shall be a second switch, or a remote means of operating the main switch, from the vicinity of the base of the A pillar on the driver’s side or, for an automobile with no A pillar, in a comparable position; and (iii) each external device shall be clearly marked by a symbol showing a red spark in a white-edged blue triangle of minimum edge length 150mm; (j) For a non-road-registered series production automobile any cable-operated bonnet or engine cover release mechanism must be disabled and replaced with at least two fastening systems in accordance with Schedule B; (k) Each automobile shall be fitted with a window net as required by Schedule I.

And not legal for Prod Sports so no use comparing apples with apples. Here are the latest rules for you..... http://docs.cams.com.au/Manual/Race/RA16-Group-2B-2F-Eligible-Comb-2018.pdf In any case, a car built as a race car from the factory will always beat a car that starts life as a production car only, there are just too many compromises. However in my case, these changes regarding turbos came just at the right time, more off the shelf "cheap" go fast bits for me like a disco potato and any choice of the huge aftermarket exhaust manifolds available for SR20 turbos.

And a serious prod sports 370 will be absolutely flogged by the equivalent porka in legal prod sports trim. In Queensland I know of one 350 that has been built to, and runs in 2F prod sports, still a work in progress and may or may not win against the 2F MX5's. It's times are slowly coming down and he mixes in the top half of the 2F field. There is also a 370 that is being built for the Cue Enduro series as a class car, not sure if 2B or 2F spec. There is also a 370 that was running in Prod sports over the last couple of years. I actually considered buying it a few years ago, but didin't have the cash at the time, nor job. This car is slowly coming good after chasing a lot of issues that always happens with a new car that hasn't been run before. I'm not sure what the car is doing, as being off shore most of last year I am now more or less out of the loop in regards to what is happening in Queensland in Prod Sports.with a lot of the cars.

The bird bath was about 300mm high measuring vertically from the centre of the hatch, so much taller than Tom's car. For what my car did in NSW in the hands of John Hepher and myself in the mid 90's it seems to have slipped through the cracks as it wasn't the most powerful or built by the right people so no kudos or credi in the zed worldt, but it turned up to every meeting, finished in the top 5 pretty much every race. It won two state championships and was run on an absolute shoestring. In 1997 when I won the NSW Marque Sports drivers' championship with the car we spent less on the whole season than one other competitor spent on the parts for their L series motor.

If you were up in Brisbane you could try my modified RX7 Group C birdbath I ran n my green car for a couple of seasons before we were pinged for it in Marque Sports cars. It created a low pressure area behind the car that sucked the back of the car down. The edges along the side of the car also helped catch and prevent air from falling off the hips of the car, directing it to the flow over the spoiler. Unfortunately for Prodsports the spoiler is too tall to meet the rules, but a cut down version to comply with the height restriction would work well, and I was pursuing having a legal birdbath built before the green car met its demise. This was evident by the amount of crap that collected on the back of the car when we came in off the track and the fact that with the birdbath, turn 1 at Eastern Creek was flat, with out, I had to touch the brakes to settle the car at turn in to get through the corner.

What? These documents are and have been readily available from the CAMS website for many years, as are the FIA homologation papers able to be ordered from CAMS. From reading these documents and the CAMS manual of motorsport, that lays out the rules for general competition plus the general requirements for automobiles in various schedules, plus the actual rules for each category, 1, 2, 3, 4 and the 5th category for historic cars it's pretty easy to get all this information, that has been bought up and quoted over the years in various threads on this forum. After reading the last few pages, and other threads, are you generally interested in historic racing and trying to help get some more freedoms for S30 cars as per some of the competitiors, or are you just trolling to continue whatever yelling at clouds vendettas you have against certain people on here?

Gotta agree with Dave on this one Gav. Without knowing the source of the MCP bonnet you can't really be passing off the review of your bonnet as gospel. The only way to do a fair review is to get one of their bonnets and have a look. It's sort of the same as me saying all L24's are shit because the one I had in my old Zed that sat for 20 years smoked and belched and farted and didn't rum any good compared to the L28 I had built that made 200hp at the wheels.

Not happy about this latest series release of plates. When I got my old merc I wanted something suitable, and the best i could get was DSP07, with the new series I can get DE5P07 for the same price, but can't justify it now

Geebus, they have gone up in price. I sold mine for a lot cheaper than that 5 years ago, and buying them 20 years ago I would pay a maximum of $150 if I needed one in a hurry.

Depending on their competition history and when they ran they could run as Group T if before the cutoff date of around '79. If that is the case then they will be abe to run as Gordon said as long as they are running the injection systems they ran with during competition in the US. As a Group S car doesn't matter what is done in the US they will have to be changed to meet the rules here. Similar to Group N where genuine improved production cars like the Geoghan Mustang and Super Falcon don't comply with the Group N rules but run as "invited" cars.

Take up the offer of the Tokico adjustable dampers and get some King low springs. The springs will be linear rate. The easiest way to pick a linear from progressive spring is the shape of the coils. If the coils are all even up to the last ones at each end where the rod will taper to sit flat they are linear, if the diameter of the coils changes and/or the spacing of the coils changes at one end odds on they are progressive rate springs. Both will work as well each other in the correct application. In my old 260 and 240 race cars I used the Tokicos and the konis with some success. I however would not use the spring rates I had as they would really only work on my car with the way it was built and the tyres I was using. I also had the spring perched dropped on the struts to drop the overall ride heights without changing spring or struct lengths. This was due to the fact that when the car was built 20 years ago there were no kits for coil overs and the best that could be done was by welding on adjustable spring collars, which we basically didn't need as we didn't need ongoing adjust-ability. In your case I would grab the Tokicos, they are a very good damper for the price point, offer good adjust-ability in terms of feel and they are a direct fit. Get some new springs to suit and replace the bushes front and rear with a mix of rubber and nolathane/urathane. You still need a little give in some areas of the suspension. Or just give the car to Lurch to set up for you. Lurch will make sure you get what will best suit for your budget and needs, as long as he feels like it

There really isn't a coilover "off the shelf" option for Z's like there are for the later R and S chassis. You can easily get progressive rate springs for coilovers, and for cheap. Do what Lurch said, refurbish the standard suspension, throw in some Koni reds or equivalent and go with standard spring rates, maybe look at Kings lows or Lovells for the springs, I've been out of S30's too long to know what is still available now, and only drop the ride height about 25-30mm from standard, that shouldn't throw out anything too much in terms of bump steer angles. For a road car, I wouldn't really worry about a LSD, maybe just chase up a 3:9 or 4:1 diff. If you have a R180 already, no real need to go to an R200, 15 or so kg is a lot of weight to drag around if you don't need it. You won't need adjustable anti-roll bars, or adjustable anything, just refurbish the standard stuff and replace the bushes with good quality urathane to tighten the car up and let everything work as it should. If Lurch is doing the body work, get him to set up the suspension as well, the extra dollars will be insignificant in the overall scheme of things, and he can probably chase down the bits you need easier than you could.

You might not get flex from the body moving around but you will get flex from the targa tops being separate structures to the roof no matter what you do. Plus race car, only needs a 20 foot paintjob, or wrap....

The fibreglass itself will flex around the joints anyway and crack the bog. Probably better to get a nicer finish in the tops of the targa tops, then glue in place, don't use bog and just paint the roof and tops in one hit with the rest of the car.

I got an ebay one for about $800 used it for about 4 years and sold it for pretty much what I paid for it, so that coulld also be an option. Was easy to adjust to suit the car and spin it to what ever angle I needed on my own, and with half decent castors was able to move it around as needed on my own also.

To glue the targa tops in I would use sikaflex, whichever one that the perspex mob I bought my window kit from recommends.

I know it's too late now, but for anyone playing, retrosound also do a powered amp/antenna for full stealth installs. I have this for my charger and it will sit up under the dash so I don't need an antenna external to the car at all. The signal amp is powered from the unit and the antenna portion will sit up under the dash as close to the windscreen as we can get it. http://www.retrosoundusa.com.au/index.php?l=product_detail&p=752

It's being set up for drifting, so as some would think, maybe a bit of a waste, but the tyre shredding power will be useful in that application. In saying that, with the hardware mentioned in the story it should be reasonable around a track if you were chasing a time.

Pretty much as above. Chassis will be very stiff and a nice thing to drive in terms of set up. Also having a workshop like Matt Stone racing behind you will make the car a very very very good thing to drive. I'm sure it will surprise more than a few people when it hits the track. Just a pity it is being built for drift rather than cutting laps, but it would be pretty competent in going fast in a straight line with a few set up changes.

Performance wheels have now set up in Brisbane and are doing some of the old period wheels in good offsets for Zeds. Hotwires, Challengers and formula all in 15x7 or 15x8 with offsets around 0 or up to -13, plus the ubiquitous superheavies. http://www.performancewheels.com.au/wheels/

I only wear a full face helmet with visor down on the track, seen the damage that can be done when things come loose or into the cabin, some of it not very nice at all. With the old Zed the seat was a fair way back and also offset to the left as far as possible, so that did help a bit, plus the window net I ran in the Zed was one of the older style fine mesh nets that caught most things as well.

40 year old light weight magnesium wheels??? I'm not sure I would even want to push the car around on them if they are known to have been used in competition. My heavy as 3 piece wheels I used on the 240 had to be rerolled a couple of times a season just from the ripple strips used at the Sydney tracks during the mid to late 90's, a set of magnesium wheels that have been belted through a few forests would be interesting to look at. Even Chrysler in Australia lifed the W35 option ROH Jelly Bean mags on the RT chargers to 10-15 races, and they are one of stronger wheels about.

Will run with both window and net to give me flexibility in having window up or down. Will have window down when in dummy grid and push the button to have it go up for race. In wet weather will be able to open one or both windows depending on how fogged up it gets. Also whatever window you use will have to withstand a force of 400N (check CAMS manual to make sure I got that right) hitting it, to replicate your bonce bouncing off it. Check your rule book, most, if not all categories will want some type of covering for safety, in a big hit your hand may end up in the door and being belted around there will get messy. I looked at doing the cards cheap, but the shape of the S14 door and associated latches and so on make it difficult to do, plus the carbon door cards look very spanky, and should last forever. In the Zed I ran with the window open all the time so it just used to sit in the door if I forgot to take it out. As much as we all whinge about CAMS, at least they do have specs for what is required to make our cars safe for use on the track.

Have a look at the HAPP website.... http://happ.com.au/ And in particular this handy sheet to decide on what will best suit you..... http://happ.com.au/sitefiles/wp-content/uploads/2017/02/HAPP_catalogue_Feb_2017_2lr.pdf Page 11 of the file. For my garage, with teh limited height I have I am looking at a Happ 90 2 poster hoist. http://happ.com.au/hoist_and_lift/happ90-3t-two-post-hoist-fully-adjustable/ They also do a scissor lift as well. http://happ.com.au/hoist_and_lift/happ10-scissors-hoist-autolift/ Price is $2100 or so plus delivery

My S30 doors were around 10-15kg if I remember correctly. Just gutted all the window gear and locks leaving the door handles and basic rods needed to open and close. Used the standard door cards to cover the holes as per requirements for the category, and windows were 3mm perspex held in place by a leather strap over the frame and press stud. S14 doors, I gutted one spare I had and went from 25kg down to 12kg cutting out the intrusion bar and getting rid of most of the electrics and hardware not needed. This also takes into account swapping glass for 2mm perspex. For the S14 I will be keeping the power window mechanisms and function as being a frameless design is a bit harder to keep neat and tidy. For door card I will probably get a set of Freddy's S14 door cards in carbon he has advertised as that is the neatest solution I have seen to cover everything and still make it a simple thing to open the door from the inside with the window net in place. I also won't bother cutting the intrusion bars out of the other doors, a lot of fiddly painful work for three kg, plus its an extra level of safety from a big hit to the side of the car even with the very good intrusion bars my cage has. So I will save aboout 10kg in total for my doors when finished and fitted up.