PZG302

Pete, if you show up with the chook cooker I'll bring along my hairdresser's car......

For me no roof lining.and.hard mount the seat to the floor, was interesting when the better half helped.me.with bleeding brakes as she couldn't reach the pedals and had to sit right.at the front of the seat and hang onto the steering wheel to use the brakes. Getting in and out with the cage was also a challenge for her....

See what happens when you turn to the dark side.....

The motor your running is the updated twin cam head one isn't it......

Your on the money for the spoilers, the bird bath is about 250mm high and the sides extend up the rear quarters to about the hub line of the rear wheels, very good design for keeping the air from falling off the hip of the car. http://www.flickr.com/photos/15569455@N07/4452926527/ This is a link to a pictureshowing the bird bath spoiler I used to run, you can see why they are called bird baths with the amount of water they can hold. The IMSA spoiler is as described with the ends dropping down the rear quarters and the edges formed to try and stop the air falling off the side and from memory were about 150-200mm tall.

If you want to use some rear aero on the back of your car, first thing is to check the rules you are racing to. Sprints/timeattack should be anything goes, but using one may put you in another category up against more modified or modern machinery. For racing, there are more limited rules to worry about, if you are going to go racing in the future, the best bet would be to use what is legal in the category you want to race. For historics with a Zed, you are basically stuck with the Nissan motorsports wing, commonly called a BRE type wing. For production or marque sports the rules are a little freer in that you can a little bigger, for a spoiler up to 150mm from the body and to the rear most part of the car, or for a GT type wing, single plain a maximum 250mm tall and some other restiction in terms of placement and maximum width the width of the car, need to check the CAMS manual for actual restrictions. For what works best, I can only go off what I have used as a rear aero device, also remembering that the front needs to be balanced to work as well. The front of my car used a MKII type spoiler without ubdertray, but still keptthe front down. I have also run without the soiler but the way my radiator was set up, the lower rad support and radiator acted as a air dam, albeit 100mm or so higher tahn the spoiler was. I have used two aero devices on the raer of my Z, firstly a Group C RX7 bird bath and secondly a nissan motorsport bob tail (BRE type). The bird bath, which I still have and is for sale, worked very well by creating a low pressure area behind the car sucking the back down, this could be seen by the amount of grime that was deposited on the rear of the car after a track session. This probably cost me 10-20km/h top speed, but allowed me to go through turn 1 at eastern Creek holding the throttle flat at about 6800rpm in 5th using a 4.1:1 diff. The bob tail didn't create as much downforce, as the car could not be driven flat through turn 1 at eastern Creek. The first time I drove the car with the bob tail at the creek I tried to drive through flat and only myself and my dry cleaner know the true colour of adrelanin. having said that I was clocked by radar at 187km/h after the turn in point, but i did need to lift off at the end of the grandstand and then get back on the throttle as the corner opened up. With the shape of the Zed, my personal preference would be for a spoiler over a wing, with the Group C bird bath first choice, and IMSA type spoiler the second choice, and the Nissan motorsport bob tail third choice. Before I binned the race car I was getting an IMSA type made up that would be within the rules I had to work with and keep as much air flowing over the spoiler as possible without falling of the side of the car as it does with the bob tail spoilers. A quick word on using the helicopter blade as a wing element, on other forums, this has been tried is not as succesful as you might think as the element is designed to work completely differently in its primary function of making a helicopter fly rather than keeping the bum of a car on the ground

standard Nissan Motorsports (or BRE) type spoiler. Mine had the same "raised section" as that one has for the badges. It may be exaggerated a bit as it may be a mould taken from a spoiler from a mould taken from a spoiler taken from a mould taken from a spoiler taken from a mould.

Yokohama still make the 352, just F*&^ken expensive and the size you need is always on the next shipment due in a few months, I had been chasing them for my charger for about six months and just gave up and got some other 15's with an old school tread pattern fitted to the performane challengers tucked away under the house.

Probably is 14kg Simon, and not unreasonable. I ran 900lb springs in my 180B 3j street sedan. When we went to IPRA to drop the ride height the good old ghetto way used as we also wanted to up the spring rate to keep the rear trailing arms as close to a live rear end as possible. I think we ended up with around 1200lb springs, and concussion every time I drove over a white line, let alone a bump.

Jason has to run the standard road calipers and solid rotors at the moment for Sc. The historic boys are trying, but they may as well be hitting their heads against a wall, at least when you stop hitting your head the pain goes away.....

I'll be at lakeside watching cars racing around, first round of the year's championship and I have to sit it out, frustrating, but you get that in the big games.....

Option 1 garage up here in Brisvegas should also be able to do them.... Link to their website......http://www.option1garage.com.au/default.htm The steel wheels aren't listed on the website, but last time I was at the shop they had them on the showroom floor.

Pete, sad to see you can't live the dream, but at least you will never die wondering. A man of your talents should find work befitting your skills and at a suitable pay rate. Remember to keep your hand in with the projects you want to do, and don't forget to call yourself a consultant, you can charge 3 times as much then

The Easter festival at bathurst this year will have regularity, but you will need.to be a member of either the porsche club or the NSW Road Racing club. Supp revs are available now.and I can send you a copy if you want.

Those wheels look familiar, good to see they are being put to good use.

An S30 built to group Sc historic specs would be competitive in prod sports up here, as would one built to 2B specs. you only have to look at last year's championship where I finished 4th in 2B only doing 3 1/2 rounds. if if did 4 or all 5 rounds then I would have finished 2nd for the year. As for events, prod sports do 5 rounds of their championship, plus one enduro round as well as being able to run in the 4 round Qld CAMS championship plus the other qr meetings we don't buy slots in, a total of around 12 to 14 events each year. personally, last year I only wanted to run the PSCRAQ events, so 6 meetings for the year for me. When the new car is finished I will look at doing the 2 Qld series and one or 2 enduros as the dollars allow. There are more than enough events up here in Qld to choose from without having to head south, so that can't be an excuse. For.this year I am hoping to co drive in the Qld round of.the enduro series, want to win group S Jason, hint hint

I reckon the quoted.prices are fair for what you want. Even though you have prepped.the car a good painter will spend a lot of prep time to get it to what they want before they paint, a good estimate will be around 10 to 15 hours to block back and get ready and that won't include any further repairs needed to get the body up to scratch. This is so they know the base will be good enough to lay the colour over it and last the 10 years or so you will want it to. It's their reputation on the line if any blemish comes through the paint in time. If your prep work isn't up to scratch and the paint looks crap are you going to blame yourself or the painter? I just spent $6k to have the MX painted and rear quarter repaired. What was supposed to be quick scuff and squirt needed more prep than first thought. The advantage was that the car now looks better than when It was put on the boat and if there are any problems the shop will sort it as it is their reputation on the line. One of my best mates who is a spray painter by trade was surprised that the job was so cheap. He thought the job was worth closer to $10k for the work done and it was only doing the external surfaces, no door jambs or engine bay. Personally, I think those quotes for a road car are pretty good, especially if that covers paint and materials as.well as labour. I wouldn't pay that for a track pig, closer to $1k, but for the chugger, the painting and prep bill will be up near $20k.

I played last year at Lakeside in the top gear series, when are you guys going to have a go at real racing in prodsports???

My excuse is I prefer to do proper door handle to door handle racing, and at the moment are between track cars. The MX, and when the Charger is finished, aren't the types of cars I'm prepared to risk at Lakeside. They will see QR a couple of times this year, the MX to give a friend a taste of track driving in a safe environment where they won't be worried about bending the car. The Charger will never see Lakeside as i am not prepared to put at risk an 11 year rebuild that turned into a checque book restoration. Once the S14 is finished I will be back racing in the Prodsports championships up here as well as looking at doing a few of the one hour races down south, like Bathurst, about 4hrs track time for $2000, bit exxy but where else can you get that much track time at Bathurst, and Phillip Island. I should also be asking when will the zed guys get serious and give some prwhilst oper racing a crack with prodsports. All well and good to do a 61 second lap at a sprint for a lap or two, try doing it when you are attacking one car whilst defending your line from two others cars for 8 laps around Lakeside......

I had the challengers as wets for the Zed and also have a set for the Chugger. If you want real old school race wheels try to find a set of rebel wheels made in Unenderra Wollongong. They are being made, but at $700 a throw a bit exxy for mine. Plenty of Mazda SS, formula fords and HQ's used them back in the day, well when I was racing in NSW anyway.....

Nah, new skool wheels +16/18 is pretty hella flush and deep dish when the standard off set for most wheels is around +35 to +40 these days.

What Jason said ^^^ Both motors were out of 280's so have the injector notches.

Yep, got a couple of L28's, one a F54/N42 combo, one N42/N42 combo, both long motors with no accessories and suitable for rebuild, see my for sale post http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,10129.0.html

The mould is for what I know as a MKII spoiler, the equivalent today would be alfa motorsports large spoiler iirc. I had one of these on my race car. For track work, they are one of the better options available for the front of a Zed. I have an archived email from alfa motorsports showing the same spoiler but can't access it.

So you haven't heard of the dry ice and hammer method? A lot easier than the heat gun and scraper method. Basically cover the deadener in dry ice and let the dry ice melt away, when it's gone you can then use a hammer to shatter the deadener off, or use a screw driver to get under a corner and lift off the deadener in relatively big pieces. It comes off nice and clean leaving only shiny metal underneath.