PZG302

We do Lurch, but not with the customer service that you do/don't provide......

No racers out ther want to save some weight and go faster?

Shell now going up on ebay, grab a bargain as I need the room for the new toys.....

An update for the build, not much will be happening until my Charger is finished, about 3 months away all going well, but the collection of spares is slowly growing. I have source a s1 body kit that will hopefully arrive in March thanks to Dimitri and Jason. And I have also just bought a complete front set of panels and lights from ebay for a good price, basically paid the going rate for a front bar and got the bonnet guards and lights for free.

Mmm, just two words quoted from one of the all time great movies...... " Medication time"

I just live by the saying...... "to beg forgiveness is easier than asking permission" Gets me most of the toys I want, she can't really send a car back from whence it came once it's tucked away in the garage and doesn't discover it for a week or two

But will it tow a 18 foot Viscount....

Yeah yeah yeah, all very frustrating, just make sure you get a run in one of your toys down south so I get my bodykit for the new Prod Sports car back here for the cost of nice bottles of spirits...... In all seriousness, i did try to get my Zed looked at but was built too late to count, and became the orphan that it was, even though it was built in the mid '90's the technology available was still the same for the late '70's with the xception of fuel management for the injection and tyre technology (which affects all racing now as the old cars are racing on tyres much better than what was originally available).We also had the same problem when the marque sports car category in NSW ran at historic meetings and cars were rejected at scrutineering for having stickers on them, even though they were not historic cars!!!!! Sometimes the flat cap racers are their own worst enemies, and if these types of situations aren't resolved soon, then historic motorsport as we know it will die. The last couple of oily rags and Qld HRCC newsletters have made for some interesting reading regarding the future of historic motorsport and the different attitudes to where it should go to prosper.....

I'll.dig them out over the weekend and let you know. I should have a full set as I know I had a spare set.for.the zed.

I have some 280zx injectors somewhere just have to.check they are the same as turbo.

Thanks to Dimitri and Jason, looks like I'll have a body kit for the 200ZX in March...... Dimitri, will PM you with details once everything is finalised, it's a buy it now auction so will get it sorted today. Matt

Cheers Dimitri will throw a bid on now. Will let you know how I go.

I'll try to put up a summary over the weekend based on my experience and limited knowledge of the brake pads for typical uses of what I expect we all need on the forum for the Hawk pads. Maybe then Jason might be able to make sense of the Hawk cattledog

Ando, here you go, one on the forum for sale......http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,10472.msg105094/topicseen.html#new

Go the yellow, looks similar to the Ford BA colour, Toxic, which I reckon was a great colour unless you had a serious hangover, then you could match it with what you threw up

For the guys down Mexico way...... There is a body kit on Ebay for the new race car, I'll call it the S14 200ZX, available, but is pick up only from Campllefield that I would like to bid on. Before I do throw a bid at it, is there anyone who is prepared to pick it up for me and maybe store it for a month or so until someone is heading north or I organise a courier? Kit consists of front and rear bars and side skirts. If I can twist Dat2kman's arm he maybe able to bring it back with him on his return from PI, if he has room with all the trophies won at the flat cap races , in March Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Matt

I think this may be the thread you were looking for about brake pads for the track..... http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,9205.0.html

For hawk pads, buy them direct from the US, about half price to your door than what you cen get them here for. eg, in Aust paying $140-160 for a set of HB100 size pads for my Wilwoods, from the US, $80 at my door. The best way to get the info you need is the following: 1. Jump onto Hawk's web site and download their catalogue, big at about 100MB from memory. 2. Once you have your pad shape, email the the tech help on the website, I have the email address of the person to speak to but would rather not put it on a public forum, and he will recommend the best compound for your application, for most sprints and road use, Hawk Blue, 9012 compound would be the go. 3. Jump onto www.hawkpadsdirect.com and order your pads. Be careful of the shipping, depending on how many you want to get at once it pays to play with the order number to see how shipping is affected, I saved a bundle doing this and made two seperate orders. The pads took about a month to arrive, but for the rice a bit of pre planning is well worth it. 4. Fit to your car, and have what is in my opinion the best value brake pads money can buy. Just be careful as some compounds can be harsh on rotors, the compound I was using, DTC60, would chew through standard rotors pretty quick, ie one set of rotors for 2-3 sets of pads, I would however get a good half season out of a set of pads and still have about 3mm of the origibal 6mm left when swapping them out. The hawk Blue 9012 compound is noisy and does like to be warmed up in my experience, so not really recommended for the road with the car I had them in. On the track, brilliant. And with the compound I enede up using again the same needed to be warm to get the best out of them and if they squealed like a stuck pig on the cool down lap coming into the pits then I knew I had been working them pretty hard. Matt

I have for sale two alfa motorsport fibreglass bonnets, both with damage on the left front corner. One is an easy repair, the second is missing a couple of inches of the corner. Bonnets have holes and most fittings for the pins, 6 per bonnet 2 pins at the rear 2 pins at the radiatior support panel, and 2 pins at the front from the headlight buckets. These bonnets did not use any of the standard catches or hinges, just the pins to hold them on. They come in at a fairly light weight 5.7kg, a lot better than the approximate 15kg of the steel bonnets. Bonnets are to be picked up only in Brisbane and price is $100 for the both. Pictures as below, the only damage is on the front left corners. For the bonnet with the sign writing, it looks to be an easy fix as it hasn't actually broken any pieces off, if you were dodgy a bit of bog would have it looking as good as new.

Done Lurch, but will be few months yet.

Looking forward to the build. Colour scheme will the reverse of the Zed, white with BRG Checks.

Now I have the new shell to build, I need the room in the garage. The old shell has to go. Condition is crashed, the front left corner needs to be cut off and the front right will have to be checked. Both top and bottom radiator supports had to be cut to get motor out. Would be best used as a rear cut or to cut up for the various bits at the rear, ie quarters, roof, rear panel and floor. On the plus side the rear of the car is good, as is the roof and the rear floor from the step back. The shell also has a welded six point cage that I can testify works. If interested, best to have a look yourselves. The shell is in Brisbane and will be sold complete only - I won't be cutting it up. Open to sensible offers around $1500, as it has to go, so as long as it isn't a riduculous low ball offer it will most likely be yours. Have a look on some of the commercial wreckers for prices of rear quarters and roofs, plus this shell has a full cage, that with the log book is CAMS compliant More pictures available. PM me if interested, Matt

Well, I got the new toy home this afternoon and it's now tucked away in the garage until the Charger is finished. Then it will be a concerted effort to get it built in around 6 months. Whilst I'm waiting for the charger, I'll be able to source the bits and pieces needed, including a half cut, a set of coil overs, set of brakes and some plastic windows plus a glass screen. It came complete with all hanging panels including some fancy wide body type guards that are supposedly worth some dollars, Q spec hubs and suspension, dash and sits on castors to get it around. It did have a RB crossmember which was taken off as I need to run and SR20 to comply with the 2B rules.

The biggest thing you'll have to.do.is get.the injection fly cuts done to your head. Peter MAC will be able to sort you out. Spend a few dollars getting that sorted and all will be sweet

Pete, I know there are plenty of cars around already done, but there is method in the madness. I have spent far too much time on MY105 and the IPRA forum as well as Boost losing ( I feel so dirty and ashamed), secret drift and so on looking for a good complete package. Having been around for a while I definately know it makes more sense to buy someone elses hard graft, and if I was looking at a hairdresser racer there are plenty of quick and very good cars for around $15k that would have me at the front of the 2F field, but I want to race something different to what everyone else runs in the category. Basically all the track cars out there have been built for either drift or IPRA or lap attack, so all are built to different rules for what I'm allowed to do. There are only a couple of cars I know of that have been built for Prod Sports, and they don't take advantage of the rules to the full extent thay can, they are still very standard. The IPRA cars are much more restricted in what they can do in terms of mods so the car would have to be pulled apart and rebuilt with most bits replaced for what I can do anyway. There aren't too many drift cars I would want to use as a base, seeing things held on with zip ties doesn't inspire confidence and with the mods most have done the motor is illegal under my rules anyway, so I have to source another engine. Engine wise, I don't need much more than 250rwhp to be competitive, that means unstressed motor - cheap build. Plus already have a build spec and budget sorted with the engine builder. This has been on the cards for about 12 months now, just the Zed getting tipped into the wall forced my hand a year earlier than I wanted. Where the car will be quick will be the shell with the suspension and brakes, plus 40" of wheels and slick tyres under the car will give a lot of grip. I was always told when I first started racing the following, which I have yet to find disproved...... If you want to go seconds faster a lap spend your money on suspension and brakes, if you want tenths faster spend your money on the engine. In starting with a clean shell I can build the car to suit the rules I have to live with and exploit those rules fully without having to compromise on what's already there. Plus I get the fun of building and then racing something that hasn't been done too many times before and I get plenty of support from the best workshops building and developing these cars as I am not competing against them. Plus the biggest issue against buying a car already is I don't have the $20k on hand at the moment, but I am able to put the money aside over the next twelve months to build the car slowly and cheaply, well as cheap as building race cars can be. I will be doing as much as I can in terms of wiring the car up, painting, assembly and so on. The only stuff done by others will be fabricating the cage and seam welding the body, building the engine and getting the nerd box and dash working and getting the wheels pointing in the correct directions before hitting the track. I also know that in the scheme of things in Prod Sports I will be a big fish in a little pond, I will be at the pointy up here in Qld, but head down south and the german cars and some of the other rockets will blow my car away, but I'll be having plenty of reasonably cheap fun, which to me is the point of the exercise.