PZG302

280Zx motor and 280Z motor are one and the same, both L28's

Carlos out at Sportsclassic at Castlereigh is the guy you're after. Google sportsclassic and you'll get his website

Sam, Another option if you have access to a daily shitter to run around in would be this.......http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Datsun-1973-240z-Rolling-Shell-260z-280zx-Nissan-240-zed-/150778883896?pt=AU_Cars&hash=item231b1f2f38 Not for the faint hearted but a cheap option to at least get a 2 seater in the garage. Buy a 2 seater shell, transfer your mechanicals, the only thing you would really need to change in your driveline would be tailshaft. The bits and pieces that you would need are avilable and how it costs depends on what you want from the car. If you don't want concourse original, a very tidy interior can be put together for ghetto money without looking ghetto. A long term solution, but one that may not hurt the wallet as much initially.

Whatever someone is willing to pay

This should be snaffled up quick. This is the perfect all round ratio for most tracks, even PI and EC, that's what 5th gear is for. I used this ratio for everywhere including Amaroo, oran park, wakefield, winton, Lakeside and various hillclimbs in NSW. If.you have the "bad" gearbox this diff will help fill the hole between 2nd and 3rd. These are hard to find and the perfect all round diff.

That's what PVR's are for

A quick update on the build....... I had a win today, picked up the brakes for the car for a very cheap $350, thankyou E-bay. Brakes I will be running will be R32 GTR calipers and rotors up front with R33 twin pot rears out back. I got the four calipers and front rotors. A simple bolt on mod, now to chase up a a master cylinder, which are cheap and plentiful, though I may still yet spring for a twin MC set up from Wilwood or Tilton. Will work out what will suit me best later down the track. They also came with pads, but won't be needing those. A quick check on the Hawk website and then the selling site in the states, and the pads are about $200 a set for the fronts and $150 a set for the rears in the compunds I will most likely use delivered. Also interesting to see that DBA rotors are cheaper in the states than here delivered for Australian built rotors. Go figure at the end of the year I also bought a seat and harness for good price, Sparco Pro 2000seat, Sabelt 3" 6 point harness, for about $1000. The old seat will be kept for ride days and I'll use one of my old harnesses for he silly seat when needed as it is in good condition, just out of date. Once the body kit arrives (thanks to Dimitri and Jason, and there will be something in the post for you in the next week or so Dimitri), I will be able to play a little with the kit to fit up and look at building a ghetto front splitter. I have also bought a wing off ebay that doesn't quite have the angle of attack i would like, but for $70 to my door I can't complain. I will fit a bit of angle as a gurney flap to help with downforce, but also minimising drag, well that's the theory anyway. I am researching the cage design I want and who to get to build it later in the year, as well as welding up the shell to make it nice and stiff. After the cage is done i will be then looking to source a donor car/front cut for the extra bits I need. The price of S14's now is making the purchase of a fullcar pretty attractive at the moment with cars available for around $4k as going things with rego. I will probably go this way as the front clip from e-bay didn't come through, the seller pranged his car and needed the bits to fix it. Whilst it is slow progress there is progress. The Charger should be in colour in the next few weeks and then it's just a matter of putting it together.

Flaggie waving green is standard procedure as he was the first flag point past the incident and signifying that the track is again clear for racing. Red flag is waved only under instruction from race control. No flag marshal can make the decision to wave a red flag no matter how bad the incident. The decision to go to a red flag is made by the clerk of course under advise from senior sector marshalls. The flaggie prior would be able to only wave double fellows if deemed necessary if cars were blocking the track, or people were on the track or in a dangerous position.

Would be a californian car as they had pretty draconian pollution laws even back in the mid 70's, so more than likely off a 280Z.

Jason, I have a useable rh guard from the green car and a spare 260 guard, can't remember if left or right, if you need them.

Sounds like your having fun down there. Sounds like we may have to go through the brake catalogue and look at destroying rotors until you can use vented ones.

Dimitri, don't forget to take the kit to give to jason. will have to get something suitable for compensation down to you as soon as I can. Matt

Engine and box went last year, have two L28s suitable for rebuild only if you are interested.

Yep, still for sale, tucked away in the corner of the shed out of the way. Let me know if you are interested. Matt

That nearly made me throw up my breakfast........ Veilside has a lot answer for and then whoever made that rear end conversion should be slowly and painfully put to death. As much as I don't like rotories, those chook cookers are a good lookinmg thing when left alone.

Peter, Saturday is fine, will PM my address.

Peter, If you are available next weekend, you are more than welcome to come up to my place and we can rewire to suit the relays. It is probably easier to do it that way than to try to explain over the interweb or phone. Matt

No need to use the expensive iridiums, the NGK BPE6, or 5 is all you need and only about $5 a pop. At worst you may need to go to a 7 depending on the state of your motor, ie higher compression and the timing you run, but standard motor 6's would be were I would start with plugs.

Great to hear Pete. Hope you get a chance to bring it north, there will always be a garage and a bed up here for you.

if you have to ask, you probably can't afford it So I would say lots......

CAMS and aasa are two different organisations providing the insurances etc. As such if you run both organisations events then you need both licences. I've needed both a CAMS and aasa licence to race up here in Qld. Unfortunately that's the way it is with 2 sets of organising bodies.

Depends what you hit..... If it's another car or something solid, fibreglass will break and shatter into tiny pieces or a combinatioon of big and little pieces, but at least it's easy to replace, I know this from personal experience Steel bonnet will fold and dent like steel does, so no real difference - in both cases the bonnet is buggered, with steel you can hit it with a hammer to straighten it out, with fibreglass you replace it. If it's a pedestrian, well steel, fibreglass, carbon it doesn't matter they are going to have a bad day......

If they are coated in oil and grime, and original, ie around 40 years old, I would personally bin them and get new belts. If the buckles are sound you may be able to get the belts re webbed. The webbing will more than likely be shot and won't do it's job if you do need them. There's a reason that race cars have the belts lifed at 5 years for international and 10 years for state level, and are made non operational after a big shunt. You can also be made to replace them if they are contanimated by oil and grease that affect the performance of teh webbing.

So therefore, the 91 octane rated fuel from the states would be about 96 or so here, the equivalent of our premium fuels on a good day at the pump.

Only for you Pete, because I know you will still respect me.....