PZG302

The spoiler shown is the US IMSA type spoiler. Also try Gavin, Biscuitballs, on this forum, he wass working on a rear spoiler similar to that for my 240 before it got written off, I'm not sure how far he got with the design though.

that's ratio is for a petrol one, diesels ran the 4.875.

You know there is one of those 5 minutes from your place......pity he can't afford a toy at the moment :'( But I could be a gun for hire!!!!!

Pfftt, that's not even half a lose. If the question is should i retiire because I'm a big girly blouse who gets scared after putting two wheels on the grass??? Then I would say yes..... If i don't come off the track at least once every meeting in practice sessions, then I'm not learning or trying enough to get the most out of the car. But then I do believe that you shouldn't have a car on the track unless you are prepared to see it end up a smoking pile of bits, hence my haidresser car doesn't do Lakeside and the Charger certainly won't see Lakeside, and why I am currently without a race car at the moment.....

So it looks like my new....ish tyres for the track day are in better condition than expected then..... Sounds like it was a better weekend than mine by all accounts, i spent the weekend driving around between roma and Surat, includinng waiting 2.5 hrs on monday in the middle of no where for a poor mechanic from St George to drive to where i was stuck so I could use a jack for five minutes to change a wheel Bloody standard scissor jacks and soft dirt roads. As for the motor in a certin Group Sc car, well the driver does give it a ppretty hard time..... But it is a shame it broke, looks like it will be a rocket this weekend at Winton.....

If you are getting serious about your build, in terms of going a big overbore(2-3mm) and getting new pistons, I have a set of 133mm rods available. They are usually used in strokers, but with a standard crank and custom pistons, will work quite well and give a better stroke/rod ratio which comes into benifet as the bore size goes up. You will need to get good quality rod bolts to suit, but they are here if you are interested.

One is the Grand daddy of the Zed, and the other is a little poetic licence.....

To do my good deed for the day and help out those older and feebler than myself, attached are requested pics of the roadster.

Jason, I'm home all day to day and te rest of the week at this stage, so if you are not commuting down south I can wander around and sort it out for you to get pics up.

I too can vouch for Gavin's work and ethics. He built me a front spoiler for the race car and was starting to develop a rear spoiler for me based on the IMSA type and a bit of Escort as well. Gavin's service was second to none, and I will no doubt be asking him if he can do some more work for me with the new S14 race car when it gets closer to seeing the track.

Not allowed to go triples for Sc, so twin hitachis it is. Manifold is freeish, got to be period IIRC. Hence race car = expensive because to get fasts legally (within category rules) costs more than what a car used for track days can bolt on cheaply with no regard for rules.

No worries, if you change yor mind they will be here atthis stage, or if anyone else wants some 18"s with deep dish come and get them.

I know that car and it is worth every cent with the package offered. A fully enclosed trailer is about 8-10k second hand. The stuff that is on the car is top spec and one the best engine builders for L series motors in Sydney screwed that motor together, so I would guess the original build would have been in the 10k plus region. With Sc the suspension is expensive because of the rules, no coil overs allowed, will have struts and a lot of work done to inserts and arms to get it to work. The body is in very good condition, if it is the car I am thinking of, it was built in Qld at no expense spared and was mentally quick. The car woulld have cost at least 50-60k to build by a workshop so he is still dropping a bucket load of money, and yes he will get close to if not the asking price fo that car. Before my car was bent, if I sold it the asking price would have been a very fair mid 20k, yoou couldn't build a car to the category rules and go faster for anywhere near that coin. One big problem is that there are plenty of track cars around, but they can't be used in any proper racing because they don't comply to any category, and to build a car that is quick and complies will cost a lot moore than throwing a big HP RB in the hole and some monster wings front and back to hold it to the ground.

They came off the car in my avatar. They are 18x8" with an offset of -2mm. On my car i needed to pump the front guards to have them fit, but my car was lowered by a good 2 inches and ran very stiff suspension, circuit racing only. The best way would be to trial fit to make sure. The wheels are a 3 piece rim and can be split for re sealing which i would recommend as one wheel does have a slow leak, will drop about 10lb of pressure overnight. they also need a good polish which would be best done whilst they are pulled apart. Price on them is $800 and I'm in no hurry to sell so price is firm. Hope that answers all questions. Matt

I've got what yoou need, but 18"and need clean and put back together. Picture below....

Jason, if you're not available, just toss the keys to me, I'll get the right result, and still have synchros left in the gearbox!!!!!

Or as the bet is which car is faster, just get me to drive it. Problem solvered...

To be CAMS complient the switches have to stop the motor within 8 revolutions and must isolate ALL circuits from the battery. So spend the few extra dollars to get the good ones. I saw plenty of Group A and V8 cars at Bathurst where when we pulled the switch, the cameras would still keep on working.

Simon, for the isolation switch spend the extra on the metal ones, including key, they last a lot better than the cheaper plastic ones. You know when the switch has operated by the big clunk when you move the key from on to off. When I go mine it was about $50 from memory.

Simon, personally I would keep the battery in the engine compartment. I did this with my 240 and when I went into the wall at Lakeside was glad i did. I didn't wear any of the battery. I am not a fan of having anything but the bare essentials in the car when on the track, and the new car won't be having an extinguisher fitted with the new cams requirements, plus I will only ever wear a full face helmet for any event where a helmet is required. As a fire marshal at all events from state level to the GP I have seen what happens when things snot you in the face in a car wearing an open face helmet. In a previous car, a Turner Sports 1300, I had a bad crash at Amaroo when the suspension broke and I snotted the wall at a genuine 120mph at the top of Bitupave Hill. The battery was small racing type, but still lead acid, and located in the passenger space bolted to the frame next to the fuel tank, but with an aluminium firewall between to cover and islolate them both. In the aftermath of the crash and looking at the resultant wreck once I was able to move freely, I was shocked to see how close I had come to getting an acid bath. I know the Z is a different type of car, but there is real no benefit in moving the weight, a Z is not a small sports car where 5kg moved from the engine bay to the cabin will make that much difference, where there is an increased risk of injury, no matter how small.

And was a hoologated option with the FIA for all 240 and 260 shells for retro fitting, how this would go with the RTA I don't know....

Yep, Lakeside is definately a track hat rewards commitment with no fear of the consequences, and/or a lot of confidence in your ability and the car.

I can see about 1/2 a second from.the karosel to hungry for you Richard. Hungry and up the hill i'm still trying to get right.

Jason, I can get pics up on Monday if you want. Have a bit of running around in the morning, but free after that.

Would have to check.2F rules as it may have had to have been sold here. 15's not a problem, nor going up to 8 inch wide. You would have to run standard turbo and inlet and exhaust manifolds though for both 2F and 2B. Could.still be a potential giant killer.with a snail.