PZG302

No worries. I'll try to get a phot up ovver thhe weekend and confirm the block.

N42 head and i believe N42 block, will have to check the block. Will definately need a rebuilld and was sourced as a base for the next race engine as I would be going straight to a 3mm overbore if it sonic tested fine or as big as it would go anyway....

Again, that is one awesome bit of kit.... I would love to do something like that for racing, but the manual says no, so if a scrutineer didn't like it you wouldn't be able to play.

John, Here are the two photos I have of the system installed and one of it out of the car. The photo out of the car shows how the pot and pumps sat a little better. The in car shots are a bit unclear. basically I had the pot made to suit and it bolted to the underside of the floor between the diff mount and the fuel tank with the high pressure pump mounted of an existing bolt on the diff mount and the low pressure pot pump just mounted in line between the tank and the pot. This was deemed about the safest spot as it would have to be one almighty hit to do any damage to the swirl pot or pumps and they were fairly well protected from stones and othher road debris as well.

John, One of the biggest hits I have had on the track involved me zigging when I should have zagged and I was cleaned up by a TR8. The end result was a hit to the rear right quarter and the only thing holding the right rear wheel on was the braided brake line. The drive shaft and strut bottom were snapped like carrots. The most worrying thing was the fuel tank was ripped from its straps and as a result the filler was ripped from the tank. I didn't see it as I was in the seat, but the flaggies said it was quite spectacular with fuel spraying out from under and out from the side of the car. As it was a sprint race I would of had only about 20 litres in the car. I was lucky it didn't ignite. In my opinion you would be better off keepinng all the fuel out of the cabin if possible. Whilst I used a standarrd tank in the racer, the surge pot I put in was fitted under the floor in front of the diff and was kept out of the way. If it was hit then: A) the fuel would be kept outside of the cabin, and therefore a little safer, and B) if the worst happened it woulld be a huge hit and there would be nothing left of the rear half of the car. If you want to see how the surge tank and pump was set up I have some photos from when I was selling the bits from the race car. Matt

Looks awesome. I agree with the bonnet pinsat the rear and i know you can get stick on bonnet pins so you don't have to drill the bonnet. I have some somewhere but would take weeks to find them. If you are keen I could probably get you some.

That has come up a treat, looks brilliant. I would love to see the flat capper leather patch brigade tut tutting over it at scrutineering for a pukkah historic event. One of the better paint jobs I have seen for pice of old decrepid junk

Roberto, and anyone else wanting to bleed brakes. try this method put up on the hairdresser's forum, all credit goes to a very smart man who is a good mechanic and knows his shit, works on everythinng from buses through to GT3 997's and some in between. The pictures are missing, but if anyone is interested I can link to the original post. Before we start lets get one thing clear "If your NOT confident about your mechanical ability maybe your better off getting this job done by a professional". I say this for one main reason, I have seen many times over my years as a mechanic, people trying to save money and end up costing them a fortune because of inexperience or not having the right tools etc. So sit down grab a coffee and read!!! I hate pumping brake pedals!!! why, clutch master cylinders are designed to travel the whole range of the cylinder, that's how they work, on the other hand or leg, brake master cylinders only ever travel approx 5% of the available cylinder. The only time this changes is when your brakes need adjusting or worse, you have a fluid leak and/or hydraulic failure!! make sense? hope so!! The basics when bleeding brakes, if just to change fluid or after caliper rebuild is all the same. What you will need, 1/2 m clear tube to go over bleeder approx 1/8 dia large syringe from chemist ask for a catheter tip syringe 50ml Brake fluid 1 ltr a different colour to what you have in your brake system now, I'll explain later!! container or you can use your oil drain bucket. coffee/tea or beverage of choice non alcoholic!!!! First step is to mark the master cylinder reservoir at the level that the brake fluid is now, (unless you have had a fluid leak) this is so you will know when your disc pads are worn down.As your pads wear down goes the fluid. Jack up the car, place on stands and remove the wheels. Grab yourself a length of clear tube to fit over the bleeder nipple. Suck out all the old fluid from the master cylinder with your syringe and tube. Refill with new fluid and turn the M/C cap over and place on resevior. Place you drain container under the caliper and run the tube to the container, I like to have the hose going up then a gentle bend downwards, this way you can see the fluid coming out and see the colour change when the new fluid comes through. Crack open the bleeder and leave the hose to drip brake fluid Now go and get your beverage of choice, this step will take approx 15mins. Have your drink, start polishing your car, start changing oil whatever, but, keep an eye on the brake fluid reservoir and don't allow to go under 1/4 of the way down. top up the cylinder when it at the low mark and have a look at the fluid dripping out of the hose, it will be nice clean fluid, and a different colour that why we change the brake fluid colour.Grab your spanner and tighten up the bleeder, you just tighten it up, the fluid will still be running out so no air can go in!!!!Do this to all 4 wheels, rears first then the fronts.Some vehicles are supposed to be bleed in a certain routine but doing it this way I've never had any problems. If you have run the system completely out of fluid this method will still work however you will need to open the bleeder and tap your finger over the top of the bleeder for a few minutes until fluid starts coming out, this causes a vacuum and helps the fluid to start to run, re: Once the fluid starts to run place on your clear tube and go do something. Now this is the method I was taught when doing my time 37 years ago and I've used it ever since and never had a problem if everything is in good condition. If the fluid won't run after you've had the system apart you have a leak somewhere, recheck all joints and recheck that everything is tight.Of course someone will disagree with my method and that's their privilege. If you want to go buy the gear to do the same thing but spending lots more $$$ buy one of these, I have one but only use it for sucking out fluids and bleeding diesel engines. I have used this method when replacing all the pads in the old racer when there has been no one around to help me. The only problem was i didn't follow the advice and used alcoholic beverages and as a reult was too pissed to test as it was a six pack job..... If you are still havinng dramas and all the lines are good, ie no air, no leaks, and everything moves as it should, then I would be lookimg at the booster, or get rid of the booster, Zeds aren't all that bad without a booster to drive. And if that fails get the rear brake conversion of Lurch ( I will want 5% commission for the sales pitch Lurch).

Similar, but they have to pay me for a sticker, or at least give me something to make it worth my while on the race cars. And my road cars tend to stay fairly clean with regard to stickers. i used to upset some suppliers who would charge me full retail for bits when I was racing as I would then remove all branding from their products. if I'm paying full price for something generally i won't advertise the brand.

Windscreen scuttle and tail shaft gone, still plenty of bits available as per first post. Someone must need some of these parts so I can make room for more S14, NA6 and VH bits....

SMS sent, I have one if no one local can help out.

Yest the scuttle is the bit between the bonnet and screen that the wiper stick through. It's in pretty good condition no rust and straight, but can't get it down south as I will be flying in. Can wrap and get it to e-go depot in the new year if your still keen.

No worries, will put it aside for you.

Sorry fellas, can't make this as the 29th has been planned for me and if I bailed you would find my bloodied corpse on the side of the road near Alexandra. Yes even more under the thumb than Sheldon.....

As the title says, having a bit of a clean out of the left over Zed bits I have. The following are for sale: 240/260 tailshaft - was used in my 240 with the 260 box so it is the later slide type tail shaft. $50 take it away. Sold Dash cowl - the piece that sits between the crash pad and the windscreen - $30 Windscreen scuttle - good condition painted in green - $50 Sold Rear trim, back only for taillights, tell me what you want to pay. XB falcon mirrors, left and right - $150 for the pair 133mm rods, set of six out of my old race motor and will need new bolts - $200 Bare N42 head and any of the bits I can find to go with it - $100 Long L28, was being kept to use block as base for the next race motor - $400 18x8 -2mm Oz wheels, 3 piece similar to a BBS mesh type wheel, 15" centre with spun rims - $800 Photos can be sent if wanted, but they are what they are, not trying to rip anyone off, but thems the dollars I want. Arm could be twisted for good beer, of my choice, at equivalent value or a good Irish Whisky. Woulld prefer pick up, but could post if required at purchaser's expense. In no real hurry to sell so no low balling, I got plenty of room to keep this stuff until it becommes my super, if medical science lets me live that long.

There's other categories out there than Historics......... Come and have a look at Prod Sports at a one hour race, some GT3 cars by invitation, some Fecking quick 2B category cars, try 54's at lakeside holding back so the slower cars get a full run, and through to 2F cars that still sport number plates. Unfortunately we only race at places like Bathurst Eastern Creek, Morgan Park, but only the full circuit, not the one some only want to run at, and Phillip Island. The other problem is we have rules that the cars have to built to, but my cheap Ghetto racer should be good for 56's at Lakeside looking at what Paul Williams did with his S14, and that was on semis, I will run full slicks and a lot lighter with plastic panels and the only restriction basically being Standard snail and manifolds. Sprints and the glorified version time attack just does not compare to door to door racing. I only do a couple of sprints a year in the hairdresser car just to keep my eye in for lines, sprints do nothiing for race craft and passing other cars off line. I am really working hard to have the ghetto racer out on the track this year so I can have a full race seaon in 2014 with hopefully a drive or two in our enduros this year.

Nice colour, but Toxic of the BA would stand out a little more......

Evan, hurry up and get my old motor in your car and running, Peter mac would have it sorted pretty quick for you, and then you could hire it out as a stump puller with the torque the thing has. Lurch, I'm working on getting down there, looks like I'll be in Alexandra for those days, so will try to make it down for one, just need to see what the better half has planned for me.

And you could also try to find the "how to Modify your Datsun" bible as well. A search on Ebay should turn something up. It was originally written in the late 70's and updated in the 80's and goes through engine and suspension mods for early Datsuns like the 1600 and Zeds.

and the manual is on its way through the magic of the interwebs

I have a 280ZX fuel injection manual on PDF, if you can give me an e-mail address I can send you a copy of the book.

No worries, glad it got there in one piece.

Porsche cup fronts are 240/640/18, so 240 wide, 640 diameter and for 18"s and will fit on an 8 to 9 1/2 inch wide rim. rears I can't rememebr off the top of my head for width, I think around 280 wide and will fit a 10 to 12 inch wide rim.

If Les says it will work then that's all you need to know, so go with what works best for you keeping with his recommendations.

Mick, if your class allows slicks, Porsche Cup or GT3 Challenge fronts are what I used and you shoould be able to get tyres used for qually only for around $400 a set and will last you most of the season, just take a little to warm up though. And be warned if you do the the slicks, once you have used them you wont want to go back to semis.....