Mr Camouflage

This is the difference between the 2 seater and the 2+2 *note: these cars have North America spec bumpers though. Both are 260/280z S30. Not a great deal of difference externally between 240Z and 260Z 2 seaters. Most notable difference is the tail lights.

Probably shouldn't have bought a 280ZX then Dave. 240/260Z's are a lot simpler to work with due to the lack of EFI, 80's electronics, and pollution gear. But having said that, you should be able to work out how to fix stuff given all the resources available on the net these days.

they look like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/71-DATSUN-240Z-SPEAKER-BRACKET-WITH-BAFFLE-AND-WIRING-HARNESS-OEM-PARTS-/221656449988?_trksid=p2054897.l4275

Gerry says it was a 260Z air box and "now that I remember it was built from one only, and the missing bits fabricated."

I can ask Gerry what it is if you like.

I'm collecting parts for an L28 turbo and have a lead on a new old stock cam for sale to suit an L28 turbo. Need some expert opinions on the grind. Just after something streetable with a bit of power, not a track monster. Specs are: intake: open: 26 degrees Before TDC close:70 degrees After BDC Cam lift: 11.5 mm exhaust: open: 74 degrees Before TDC close:70 degrees After BDC Cam lift: 11.5 mm 276 degree duration 11.5 mm (0.45 inches) is a relatively low lift for an aftermarket cam? An online cam calculator tells me these specs, which don't mean much to me. Your cam has an Overlap of 48.00 degrees Intake Duration of 276.00 degrees. The Exhaust Duration is 276.00 degrees. The Inlet Cam has an Installed Centerline of 112.00 degrees ATDC. The exhaust cam has an Installed Centerline of 116.00 degrees BTDC. What's the verdict? Also how much can one expect to pay for such a cam? Seller and I are on the how much you want/make an offer merry go round.

Looks good. Restomod style. Fun tip: A trick race car drivers use is to rotate the gauges so that the normal reading of the ancillary gauges are all pointed to 12 o'clock. That way they can tell at a glance when something isn't right. Might look a bit odd on a road car though.

The USA have this weird system, where by if a car is build from, say 10/2000 to 9/2001 its called a 2001 model (even though it came out in 2000). So if the car was a 11/1973 240Z, built in 1973, it could still be called a 1974 240Z under their silly "model year" shenanigans. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Model_year I'll take that $5 Gav

Unless your car is a north american market LHD import it won't matter what your chassis number is compared to his. They ran in parallel. eg. HS30-00501 and HLS30-00501 are 2 different cars built in different years and sent to different countries. Original engine numbers are a better indicator of production date when comparing different types of (G)(H/R)(L)S30 Datsun/Nissan (Fairlady)(240/260/280)Z

554 units if you add up the numbers for all the years listed.

What year is on the plate in the door jamb? eg: http://www.sonic.net/~hrwillis/ID_plate.JPG

Back in the 90's I dropped my zed off at a gearbox place to fix the synchros on second gear. When I went back to pick it up, it was outside in the car park. just off the road. I went in and settled up the bill and asked for the keys. The reply was, they are in the car. Walk out to the car in the car park, and there they are in the ignition, car not locked, for anybody walking by to steal. Was not impressed either.

exploded view

Can you post a picture of your wheel centre. From what I've seen in your other thread, it looks like you might be missing the upper ring. See exploded diagram below. From memory, the upper ring had a threaded punch hole that the screw screws into, and the ring directly below it has a cut out for clearance.

The previous photos were from LHD cars - they were all I could find on the net. RHD are mirrored, so the same as yours. Its a basic switch design. +ve voltage comes from the spring arm, to the track on the back of the wheel (isolated from ground), The wire carries the +ve to the top isolation ring. When the isolation ring is depressed it makes contact with the second ring which is earthed via the steering wheel/column completing a circuit, closing the horn relay that sends 12 volts through the horns to ground. Make sure the track and the spring arm contact are clean (use a bit of emery cloth or other suitable abrasive paper to clean them up), and maybe apply a bit of electrical grease or vasoline to stop them oxidising. Some tests you can do: With steering wheel off, use bit of wire to earth the spring arm to the steering column centre : horn should sound (If it doesn't you may have a problem with a fuse or the horn relay) If horn sounds, With steering wheel on, use a bit of wire to earth the top ring to the steering column centre : horn should sound If not, then there is a problem with the spring arm not contacting the track on the back of the wheel, or the wire is not conducting voltage to the top ring. Some gentle bending of the spring arm may be required so it makes good contact. Try pressing the horn ring directly, without the centre button trim thing on. Horn should sound. If your horn button is cracked it may not allow the ring to depress properly. Some test you can do with the wheel itself: If you have a multimeter, set it to measure resistance. With the steering wheel off test that there is an open circuit between the track and the centre splines. Have someone press the horn ring, resistance should drop to about 0 ohms. If it doesn't there is a problem with the horn assembly and should should take it apart and inspect it. With the steering wheel on, test that you have voltage between the horn ring (+ve lead) and the steering column (not horn should sound) and meter should read around 12 volts I'd guess. Thats about all I can think of.

Honestly I don't think that rusty POS is worth $500. Maybe if the bonnet is ok.

It should work and be a straight swap if you have the 240Z wheel, horn assembly and horn button, only gotcha I can see is the spring arm might be slightly different, but I don't have a Z handy to compare. Of course these are 40 year old parts and things wear out, previous owners mangle stuff, etc. Maybe a handy member local to you could have a look at it when you have some free time. One last thing i'd check is that there is a decent gap between the top ring and the lower contact ring. I think you can adjust this by loosening the 3 screws slightly, although its a been a long time since I've seen a Z wheel. I'm not sure if its possible but if someone overtightened the screws there might not be a gap, therefore the horn would sound.

Sounds like the spring arm might not be aligned correctly if you are having issues when turning the wheel. If the spring arm strays off the track and touches the hub it would cause the horn to sound. Maybe some careful adjustment of the arm is needed This is the bit i'm talking about: http://dailydatsun.files.wordpress.com/2013/04/daily-datsun-240z-280z-steering-wheel-7.jpg What's yours look like? and maybe post a pic of the back of the wheel too. Next thing I'd do it disassemble the horn assembly and make sure nothing internal is shorting out.

The spring arm attached to the indicator assembly? or the coil spring on the 260z assembly? If the latter: It doesn't. You don't use the 260Z spring. Its a completely different set up. You need to use the horn equipment that comes with the 240Z wheel. In that case there is no spring that you can see. its all captive within the horn equipment (see the photo I posted in your other thread) - notice you don't see a spring anywhere. The centre cap just clips on there and thats it. Check out this thread for an exploded diagram of the 240Z horn assembly http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/29090-steering-exploded-view/?p=257364 Although this guy did manage to swap a later horn button onto a 240z wheel if you don't have the 240Z horn assembly: http://dailydatsun.com/2013/04/20/240z-steering-wheel-on-a-280z-while-keeping-the-horn-pad/

Weird. I imagine since they admitted to basically stealing the car, that some descendant of the original owner who left it at the garage would have a legal claim to the porsche.

They are all pretty similar. You just need to make sure the arm touches the track on the back of the steering wheel. See pictures of 240/260/280 parts here http://www.new-datsun-parts.com/240Z-parts-electrical.html

That was just part of the troubleshooting process. Obviously theres a problem with the isolating ring then. Do you have a multimeter? Post some photos of what you have. Dealing with this over the internet with a vague description is impossible.

Pics of what you currently have would help. Basically there is a spring arm that supplies +ve voltage to the back of the steering wheel, and the black wire in the photos in the other thread connects the back of the wheel to the electrically isolated spring horn ring. If the ring is not electrically isolated the horn will sound constantly. What happens if you disconnect the black wire?

http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php?topic=12109.0

240K is already sold. edit - was already posted on the last page.