Zeddophile

What year is the newspaper in the roof? Definitely a candidate for blasting, that car. It will probably come back more holes than car, but at least you can size it all up properly, and set up a plan of attack for how deep you need to go... I'd be guessing its had a hit in the front by that bonnet, that could be fun to repair if you go down that path - lots of curves in that leading edge that aren't readily apparent

I'm amazed this scam is still new to anyone in the car community, given that it's been going on for years now, yet every month or two I'm talking to someone who's selling their car, and has been all excited by having 'someone overseas/working on an oil rig/temporarily incapacitated beyond using their nose to type on the keyboard' wanting to buy their car. Another common variant of the same scam is that they 'overpay' you with Paypal, and ask you to refund the excess. I'm sure there are plenty more though, and they're rampant on Carsales as well.

Old R's? This is my new old stock D98s after a 6 hour (relay), and half a sprint. Bought mid last year, binned early this year. I'm told its because they've been sitting around too long...

No idea on there being an intermediate unit. I would take a stab at no though (other than a timer relay for intermittent), given the age of a Zed. Most cars of around that era just have two sets of windings (IIRC) in the wiper motor itself to give the two speeds. Could also get low speed by having a resistor inside the motor to reduce the voltage going through the winding on the low setting. *EDIT* Just had a quick squint at the wiring diagrams in the Haynes manual for 240/260z, and on the diagrams I can follow without going completely cross eyed (some are really tiny scale!), nothing between the switch and motor.

What do you mean not working to their full potential - still slow? If that is the case, in a car the age of a zed it's more than likely going to be voltage drop through all the wiring. I more than doubled the speed of the wipers in my Alfa by adding relays right before the motor, to defeat the voltage drop. To see if this will help you, first unplug the motor. Then turn the ignition on, and test all the pins of the car loom for power with a test light - you should find one that is powered all the time when the ignition is on, this is for the self parking circuit. Now set the wiper switch to low speed, and test all the pins again, you should find a pin that wasn't previously powered now has power. Write down which one it is, then set the switch to high. Repeat the process, and write down which pin now gets powered up. Finally, plug the wiper motor back in. Grab a length of reasonable thickness wire, and put one end of it on the positive terminal of the battery. Turn the wipers on low speed, and observe how fast they go. Now, with them still going, stick the other end of your piece of wire into the back of the plug on the pin you identified as having power at low speed, and see if the wipers speed up. Repeat process for high speed. If you find the wiper speed significantly increases when you do this, adding relays will benefit you. Adding one to the low speed and one to the high speed circuits should be all that is required. In my case the intermittent speed also increased by doing this, as it must run through the low speed circuit. A zed may be a little different in its layout here though. I should note here though, that in my Alfa and one other I've done this modification has caused some odd park behaviour on intermittant, in that the wipers start coming back up before they 'pause'. Also stop in the same '10% up' position when you switch the wipers off from intermittent, but they park perfectly when switched straight off from low or high speed. No idea why, haven't had enough 'intermittent' rain for it to annoy me enough that I'll fix it. Could just be an Italian gremlin. Good luck!

LOL. I reckon that's the best one so far....

Nah, floor was too slippery. Was asked to lay down a non slip coating!

Just went for a quick click around the site (Firefox 8 ), and it seems fine to me? Other sites often run a bit slow for me, but this one is fine. Reminds me of a problem I had with Ebay a while ago, where it would run painfully slow on my computer, despite all other sites working fine, but would run fine on my laptop. Can't remember if I ever found the cause of that before I reinstalled this computer for another reason...

Probably to see if any of those methods for adding inches have actually worked My desk has a lot of clutter, amongst which is a 22 inch LCD for the (Pentium 4, it was one of the fastest processors around at the time I built it!) desktop, a laptop hiding under two framed advertisments yet to be hung on the wall (a wartime Mobil ad, and an ad for Fords 'V-8's for 1939). About 8 toy cars, some Matchbox, some Hot Wheels, some unknown - more interesting ones are an Alfa SZ, a Lancia Stratos, and a Countach race car. A catalogue of tooling for lathes and mills etc. Heaps of cd with various things on them which were considered important years ago when they were put on there. A few old Nokias, a dead corded phone (why don't I throw that away, come to think of it), a disemboweled Xbox 360 controller, a digital camera, couple of computer cables for various purposes.... Two or three notepads for scribbling down random pieces of information, and lists of things to do or buy, mostly for the cars (not many of which are actually done). Two in trays where I throw the bills before I pay them at the last minute. Chargers for just about every electronic device I own also seem to be in residence. Oh wow, that's where that piezo BBQ lighter went too... what's the unused paint brush doing there? There is still plenty more crap floating around on here, but I don't think I'll bore you itemising that lot, suffice to say its mostly just clutter of small random items that seem to gravitate to desk spaces... The (fairly old) Logitech steering wheel is under the desk, so I guess that doesn't count

Petrol is the best lubricant for rubber.... Especially since it evaporates away, so tight fitting rubber grommets etc don't pop back out on their own 15 minutes later!

The details I was going to get have been posted in the first post?

LMAO - I saw this car there on my way home yesterday too, was going to try and get some details for the forum tonight if it was still there when I went past.

No, they make a u turn... Unless of course you aren't doing regulation 90 degree left turns, in which case officers are on their way to your door as we speak...

Good luck with finding a solution to this one (not intended to be sarcastic) I had this problem some time ago, and I worked out that my computers software was definitely the cause, as it worked perfectly on the two laptops I have access to. The ONLY site that went slow was Ebay, and it was excruciatingly so - 10 minutes sometimes just to load the next page of search results. Yet I could browse any other website at normal speed at the same time (and did while waiting), and even access Ebay at normal speed from the laptop while my desktop was still thinking about it... At the time Firefox was at about version 3.4, and I had the same version on both the problem computer and one of the working laptops . Pretty sure I tried reinstalling Firefox anyway, but it didn't work. You've now got me racking my brains to try and remember whether I actually ever solved it, since that time I've reinstalled the whole operating system anyway (for other reasons) and it now works fine. If I remember anything, I'll let you know... At the time I couldn't even find any posts on the net from anyone who'd had the same problem.

If you didn't have or fit relays when you put those headlights in, you've just destroyed your switch. Like most other cars of that age, there are no relays in the headlight circuit from the factory, meaning that the headlights draw full current through the switch. This burns enough switches out with normal 55w globes, which why a lot of people make it the first mod they do to the car. For the minimal cost of the relays, you save yourself the cost of a new switch (its a 'when' it burns out, not an 'if'), and get a bit brighter lights to boot. If you've just gone and plugged 130w globes into the standard loom you've more than doubled the current draw through wiring that wasn't really up to the original draw.

Laughed my ass off. That's the best post in this thread.

Yep. Things that rely on an electrical circuit generally don't work very well when you only hook up one half of the circuit...

Personally, I'm looking at a nearly empty bucket, and counting the 10c pieces at the bottom, even I'm sure there aren't enough in there.... That, and a full garage

I have a Miller, and its great - mine however is a Digital Elite, as opposed to an Elite. Difference being, it still has 4 sensors, but I actually don't use them - I run mine in 'X-Mode' all the time, which is triggered off electromagnetic detection rather than light hitting the sensors. Great for low amperage TIG, as it fires up during HF start! I actually don't know why they bothered to put the 4 light sensors in, maybe X-mode doesn't work so well with arc welding.

Quick skim suggests the bottoms of the front guards have been replaced (badly), given the funny angles they're at. Sills look a bit funny too, like they may be flat instead of a little curved top to bottom, but that could be the photos. Drivers door appears to be a slightly different colour, but again, could be the photos. Bit of rust staining visible in the engine bay shots, particularly the bolts that hold the front guards on, but in a few other spots as well. Still in the engine bay, the 'return' on the LH guard where the bolts that hold it on are is very dirty - why? Could be scum buildup from sitting in someones back yard for a while, but a car yard would normally make sure to wash that off. Given there appears to be a well defined line where the dirty paint goes to very clean paint just before the fold leading into the externally visible part of the guard, one would suggest it's been resprayed. Looks like a rust bubble on the front side of the radiator too, in the same photo. I would suggest that it likely will need quite a bit of bodywork to bring it up to scratch and rectify dodgy previous work. You never know though, it might be a bit rough, but perfectly acceptable to use as a daily. Given that it is still there however, probably not the case, although old cars really don't seem to sell well through dealers for some reason, unless they are well restored examples. What I would term "as is" cars tend to languish on their lots for ages, seen a few different makes and models do the same thing, especially if they're a bit sporty. Think the market for that aged car is very suspicious of used car dealers morality. On the plus side, it seems to be mostly complete, which can save you a lot of money in the long run, hunting down little bits and pieces.

Ask them if it will fit in USPS flat rate boxes. Usually take about a week to turn up, and tends to be the cheapest option....

What he said. At 5 years old, the battery is pretty likely to be rooted - they just don't seem to last anymore. Tried jump starting it when its making the clicking noise? Could also be fusible links or bad connections on battery or other terminals though....

I'm guessing custom crankshaft to withstand very high rpm is the start of the secret...

What sort of racing are you doing? For club sprint type events, Sandown and Phillip Island are normally 75 dB, while Winton is 95dB. If you are doing historic racing (or other larger open meetings) however, such as group S, the noise limit at those 3 tracks is usually 95dB (they get a permit for a 'noisy' meeting). Generally measured at 30 metres drive by. At Sandown, the sound man is often sitting in the grandstand, but does use other spots on occasion. Don't remember where he hides at Phillip Island, but I seem to recall its on the opposite side of the track (some people have left and right sidepipes they swap over depending on which track they're going too ) The Supplementary regulations for whichever event you are looking at will have the information you seek. Never heard of there being a fine for being too noisy at the track, usually you'll be told the car is too loud and to fix it. If you go back out and it's still over the limit, they just won't let you run anymore. As far as the EPA measurement goes, I'm told by noisy mates that they have a book listing models of cars, and a specified test rpm for each one. Not sure if there are different noise limits depending on car, but the test rpm is certainly different from car to car. Amusingly, a mate had an exhaust that was very loud and drony up to about 2,800 rpm, but he passed because the specified test rpm was somewhere in the mid to high 3s! Not sure if they also test emissions though, if you get dragged in for a noise check...

Looks to me like the rubber in the strut top has given up the ghost... Without really remembering how a Zed rear strut is put together, I'd say you need a replacement strut top, as usually the rubber is bonded into the metal of the top (which is what those 3 studs are a part of.)