Zeddophile

Yep. And if the cops pull you over while you are there, you'll most likely get booked for it. You must take the most direct route from your house straight to a workshop. No stopping off on the way. However, there also exists some kind of 'single trip' permit, which can be used for a different reason. A rare left hand drive Alfa (90's vintage, ineligible for club plates) was driven to Philip Island for the purposes of an Alfa only race meeting, and then driven back. One permit each way. Not sure on the particular details, but this was, according to Vicroads, above board.

Lol....

I was hoping to open this thread and find details of the replacement... After all, the only reason you'd sell it is if you got your hands on something even juicier...

Oh no - they didn't let you near the camera did they, that's.... actually, BLOODY funny.

If you're saying the Montreal had a Maserari V6 in it, you're a long way from correct. It was an Alfa designed 2.6 litre V8 with Spica mechanical fuel injection. A modified version of that V8 (3 litre) was also used for boat racing...

Good to hear you got it working. Not the foggiest idea what the other two wires are for off the top of my head. Following them on the wiring diagram would likely tell you if you could be bothered.

Highly unlikely that particular engine was a bolt in swap. The diff doesn't make any difference to the swap, but the engine mounts on the body have probably been cut off and welded into a different position, etc etc. Someone who has looked at or done the conversion before would be more definitive, but I'd say its not quick and easy. Well, since you're on your P-plates, L26's will be extremely difficult to find. If you were on your L-plates, they are plentiful, and if you are fully licenced, they fall into the 'pretty easy to find' category. Seriously, if you want one with a standard engine, don't waste money and your time on finding and refitting a standard engine to a car with a conversion, just add that money to the budget and buy a better standard car.

That would be what he is trying to do, I'd say... This should really be a new post, as this how-to was written for a 240/260.... Perhaps Lurch or steve could move this part elsewhere? However, assuming you have checked for power at the lights themselves, and eliminated blown globes/fuses etc, what colours does the wiring diagram give for the inhibitor switch part of it? I would be tempted to disconnect the two bridged wires. Test both for power (with ignition turned on obviously). I think you'll probably find the blue/white wire has power, and the black doesn't. Test the blue wire for power, and if it doesn't have any (but the blue/white did previously), touch the blue/white to the blue wire to see if your reverse lights operate. If they do, chuck those two on the reverse switch, and mark the black wire you disconnected. Check the remaining wires for power (only 3 colours listed, 2 black wires I'm guessing?). My instinct says the green wire is the most likely suspect, but it's also possible that both sides of the inhibitor switch are black wires..... My guess on what has happened, is that the PO has gotten hold of the 'earth' side of the inhibitor switch (the black), but instead of feeding it power from the correct source, he has fed it from the power for the reverse lights....

Ironically, its only the guys in the 2 seaters who'll ever have the need to carry more than one at a time...

No wonder you don't have a woman....

LOL.

What I think is that you can have the 2000GT as long as I get the Lancia Stratos in the background! As far as the colour scheme goes though - where would you finish the blue spot? The front of a zed has a few more defined edges at the front, might make it a little harder to get it looking right? And if a lot of its use is for track days, stick your normal race number on it (assuming you can request numbers in the track days you do)...

Aww, come on! You know as well as I do, every time you break something, something better has to go back in!

I shouldn't be surprised that you'd come up with that.... your tastes do seem equally as strange as mine. Because I'm really silly, what sort of nick is it in, and how many is a couple (maybe a topic for PMs)? Although I really should be focusing on other things to put in the garage, like machine tools that weigh and cost as much as a car.....

Yeah, I agree with most of that, although I'd go with an '81 personally... According to the bloke who used to rent the factory over the road, you can get 'adult' blow up sheep/goats and a few other animals.... Maybe Lurch meant one of those? As far as 'replacement' cars go: I've often thought lately that if the Alfa (current zed substitute) gets put off the road, first in line for use as a daily drive is a Supra RZ. But then again, I've also always thought at some stage I'll buy a Jag XJS. I have this condition where I believe an English car with lots of electrical crap in it, and a thirsty v12 might actually be fun. Probably only have it for a year at most, but at some stage I must get that out of my system.... And there are many other cars I'd love to own/play with on the list - an Alfa 147 GTA (or, for more rarity, a 156GTA wagon) would be a good daily, there was a 1939 Willys ute on Ebay a little while ago I thought would be great with a supercharged VH45 in it, still love the idea of a Stagea 260RS....

That would destroy tyres pretty fast, besides making the car push the nose. 4mm toe in OVERALL would be the limit FOR ROAD USE in my opinion, i'd be shooting for that. And would personally prefer between 0 and 1.5mm per side. (1-3mm overall). As has been said already by a few different people, with various embellishments. For what its worth, Haynes manual says "The rear wheels have no toe-in, and a camber angle of 0.5 degrees with the car unladen." In the interests of gaining a touch more rear end stability, I feel a couple of mm toe-in is an acceptable change.

They also got Alfa GTV6s (mid 80's model) with a 3 litre v6 motor instead of the 2.5 v6. They had triple carbs on them instead of the Bosch L-jetronic fuel injection, and there were about 200 of them produced to homologate the car for racing.

Hmmm. Bugger. Although, if its that close to the main hoop, is that going to cause an issue in getting it logged? Seem to remember something about 150mm minimum distance between your head and the main hoop, although no CAMS manual on hand.

I don't have it in a Zed (unfortunately I have no Zed to put it in!), and I don't have a rollcage (yet)! But if you like skinny, you definitely should have a sit in a Corsa. They are a bit funny in comparison to almost any other seat though, in that you kind of feel almost like you sit on top of it rather than actually in it. Feels like you might fall out compared to other seats, but you don't.

Haha - emergency stop in a Sud/33... equals coming to a screaming halt with all 4 wheels locked up and the engine valve bouncing. Well, with my feet it does anyway. If you're a skinny bastard like me, you could look into Sparco Corsa seats. But when I say skinny, I mean really skinny. My reason for buying that seat was that it actually gives me lateral support without any slop side to side, which I get even in a Sparco Evo (only a small amount in those though). The wings only stick out past my shoulders by about half an inch either side... If you want some reference material, Sparco put out a spec sheet for all their seats with the dimensions on them (including weights and construction materials). Can't find the one I had printed out just at the moment to confirm whether it shows width of the wings, but a quick search of the net should turn one up for you. *EDIT* Got less lazy, heres a link: http://www.sparcousa.com/resourceFiles/26.pdf Hmmm, just had a look at the measurements, and they all seem to be about the same, apart from the Tec and the Sprint... However, if you start playing with dimension C, you might be able to get it high or low enough to clear the side bar. Although, given how little my seat sticks out past my shoulders, either I have wide shoulders, or you're leaning against the rollcage as it is?

I read the orginal post as make an reasonable offer (with respect to the replacement price), and it will be considered?

Either thats the right hand side, or someones done something really dodgy with the front guard?

In the words of Little Britain: "I'm a LAY-DY!"

To anyone who's thinking of taking sulio up on this offer, I'll give you $3050 for the same car. BARGAIN!

He'll get bored soon, and join the grumpier ones among us who can't be bothered to even type "Use the search" for these types of posts.