Natez

just admit it evan, your a ricer to... haha j/k ive realised now after talking to a friend, if im spending 2k on rims, might as work a little harder and well spend 4k and get wide fat lighter wantanabes from japan... anyone know the weight of wantanabe RS, compared to Superlites

well the way im looking at it.... is that id rather build a strong L28 rather than putting a Rb in the car, as i know i will get more power out of a rb, but loose the classic feel of the L6 etc, but i don't want to spend a crap load on a L28 when i finish and be unhappy with the power and be thinking in the back of my head i shoulda went RB, but my budget will be 4k, for the long motor my aim is 200hp/150kw at the wheels, so looking at 240-250hp at the motor....

i'll be going the all gunmetal grey look,

Hey, ive never built from scratch a L28 performance motor, ive rebuilt a L26 before, and cost upwards of 1800 with machine work and new pistons, and gasket set etc... but that was years ago... so what are the estimated cost, to build a good streetable N/A L28 F54/N42/or R30 E88 combo say 200-240hp at the flywheel, bored a say 0.060, with headwork (porting), with performance valve spings and valves, flat top pistons, gasket kits, new cam, and any other stuff that needs to be done that im not known about... Thanks

went to my local newsangency today to pick up a copy, vbut its sold out, and they got the new may edition in already.... stupid month early publications

most likely a crack in the bondo that is covering the joint between the two panels and the lead

looking at the vicroads website http://www.vplates.com.au/ipplateorders.htm you can choose a number of types, obvously the large one for the rear is the go, and a slimline for the front, ...wel that what i want anyway... but what about the colors, black backing or white... and any ideas on custom plates... just thinking out aloud...but i had a quick play around... and they had dat24O with the 0 being a o in the new style of plate, and the RB24O with same thing with the, o, evan thinking LPOWER, would be cool

found this for panasports, but the are pretty much the same as superlites i think http://www.panasport.com/240z.html they are 16x7s for the most of them, pretty much what i want for the 240, now to find prices, just thoight id post them up for people who wanted some photos to see how the 16s looked

the stress fracture you are refering to, happens cause datsun put lead in that area, where the hatch joins to the roof, or unless your car has had a little bit of bondo in that spot to smooth out the lead, that will have cracked due to the flex inthe chasis and thats the spot where it hits most... not sure about sydney, but you can get something decent with the rust repaired for the 4k mark no worries in melbourne, the paint won't be that great, but

1. if you go a RB20 you are wasting your time and money, yes the motor is cheap, but to install costs a bundle, and worth the extra cash to spend on a rb25det, as the extra torque.... and power possibiltys with this motor is alot better than the 20...., but to intall details, best to check out www.hybridz.org heaps of info there, basically you need new mounts,200zr sump and pickup, and electrics, and new brakes, ie budget around 8-12k if doing the work yourself.... and if you want it to be done right.. 2. if it has visible rust, im sure that there will be more somewhere else in the car that you don't know about.... therefore costing more money... cutting the rust out of the car isn't a big $$ spenditure, if the bodywork then respraying that costs the money if you want it done right... 3. the original motor will have something of the 80rwkw mark, will be slow by todays sports car standerds, but an engine swap to a mild L28, with some nice cards, will boost it a bit, but won't be a rb25det... my answers are pretty vague as well, but i havn't seen the car to say go for it or not, but it sure does look pretty good in that color.... another thing to realise that it is a 77, thou stil a Z, not as wanted as say a 70-71 240z, so the price should be adjusted for this as well...

apparantly http://www.240z.id.au/, zbuild is in the Fast fours April 2006 edition i will be checking it out tomorrow....

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Rear-Disc-Brake-conversion-Datsun_W0QQitemZ4632129990QQcategoryZ102336QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem or this.... finishing soon

check ebay..... or call warren at zworx, he might have a rear set spare you could have...

mmmmmmm pretty

oh sweet, im 100% sure my car will be ready by then, sweet

17.9k, pretty unique.... but it might possible be, the car that was for sale on ozdat.com last year for 12k, from a guy in bendigo, or ballarat

oh 5 stud conversion, how much that set you back... yer that liquid silver is really nice, don't think about mercedes silver unless u got some deep pockets for a paint job, as its expensive paint, but well worth it in the end really... im going for either nissan pewter, or vw silver

it says add an attachment above the submit button when you are posting a reply

somone record, i can't get a friends place to watch it

blue, silver, white, its damn hard to choose ae

im going a silver... but not 100% sure on what shade... more current mercedes silver.... its damn hard to finf what kind of color you want the car to be....

personally, if you want to restore to factory-ish spec....best to get lowest Vin 240z.... as you'll buy now for 3-5k, say something that needs a full ground up restor, and not molested already.... but it will be worth it in the end, as if yo keep it for long enough, and restore it to its formor glory, it will be worth more in the end than compared to a 260.... be just more collectable... try to get the lower VIN in best original conditon you can find, spending more at the start might possibly save you money in the long run,

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4626700247 love the car, looks nice, not so clean, but nice and the way i like it

check ebay.com.au theres a brown one there, for a decent price... im sure theres not a alot of them out there that are beautiful, but im sure from what you have described, there is a few more honest and less dodgy ones out there... imo....

every seller you see will appear genuine, The family my mum bought her 2004 astra from looked genuine, but last week we found out that car had a major colision in its life, (was repaired properly thou) we were told only 1 owner, but its had 2... and weren't told about the smash... my personally opinion is to stay away, and don't even bother getting a report...... espcially that this one has rust appering after 4 months, believe me and the other guys rust is the biggest problem in these cars, and its best to find out without rust in the first place//// and the seals weren't evan changed when he got a respray, shows a owner.... theres plenty of good condition 2+2s around for decent prices... for 3k you should be able to find a pretty decent one with a good sound body... and decent mechanicals and good interoir.. Is it your first one that you have looked at...