Natez

like the same block number as is on the placard... howd u find out it was your before you bidded

have you engineerd the car for vic. what were the requirements for engineering the car with the rb25det

i read on hybridz that the 200zr sump and pickup can be had for $350+gst from nisssan the patrol one sits to low for my liking.... and the 200zr engine mounts from what images i have seen sit the engine a little to foward for the optimum setup, but im sure will work fine for a road car... sco_aus, where did you get ur transmission mount done.....

i had a facet pump... you could hear it at startup, but was quiet when pressurised, great pump...

evan, id assume that you would have to weld the sleeves on as per the norm...

there has been discussion on the next Z34, which i think won't come out till after the gtr, as nissan usualy let there cars sit for a number of years... but id hope that this newer Z looks more retro, and has that top of the they cayrenne look. but the Z33 does look alot like a bigger brother of the Z33, if you look more closely at it as well,

i want them for my z, so if theres a group buy count me in for sure,

320-400 is quite normal for 3rd party for any car, if you are under 25, as long as its not a import.... ive gotten qoutes of around 400-750 for full comp, less than 5000k a year, with agreed 13.5k value, im rating 3 thou, but still only 22,

i have never like convertible Z's, Ive seen that green one around the east side, it just doesn't look that good compared to a hard top..... if u want a convertible buy a mx5, even if they look a bit hairdresser but props to the photoshop work there sulio....

if they are anything like what Nzeder has shown, but prefer gunmetal grey, id be putting in a order asap

what type of wantanabes.... and what is the number, address for the distributer, is there a shop...

it sounds more like tuning issue, but after doing zedophiles test. if its not that.... most likely, air leak.... theres actaully a carby cleaner product... mostly like WD40, but more for carbies, use that before tuning to clean it up a bit... intructions are easy rev the car to around 2k, then spray in the intake of both carbs, and it will free up parts etc, if things are stuck,,,, i also found atf the best fluid for my 240z Su's///

awesome vid... for sale to on ebay love the power it delivers... don't know why he went for that turbo... bloody british, its a good turbo and all but theres better stuff suited to that motor that will be less lagy

trailer is usually cheaper if you got a car that can tow... but if the car ain't running its pretty damn hard to push the car up the trailer, unless its got a working chain thingy(forgot what they are called) i know a guy in my area western suburbs, that will take the car for anything less than 25k for $40 cash but as my house is 2minutes from his house i think he does it cheaper for me... and he lives in st albans he is Ming Towing... and its in the white pages,

what area are you in

im buying it tommorrow, i think it will befaster as well to spray on... as i am doing alot of the car... thanks

Has anyone done this yet, on there website it says 250kpa, but no needle size will do it with 2mm but not sure if it should be 2.5mm , im doing the wheel well, and floors and rails and basically everywhere that rusts normally on Zs... haha...

this is the actaul kit here http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DATSUN-COMPLETE-WEATHERSTRIP-KIT-DATSUN-240Z-260Z-280Z_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33685QQitemZ8034323599QQrdZ1 i was qouted 72.75US for shipping... using XE.com so it will be 341 deliverd...

dyno sheets mean jack all i had my silvia on 2 dynos..... both nearly same weather, 2 weeks apart... same petrol even, and 4th gear one had 165rwkw, another had 184rwkw...., the one with 165rwkw was the one i usually go to. btw.... dynos are good for tuning.... unless its done on the same day and comparing dyno runs between differant car clubs for say a club dyno day, that would be more accuarate to see what differance both motors have but back to topic.... Rb30e, is a good motor, but most likely not worth the effort to install into a Z, unless with de head, and some work, with new computer and better injection as the injection setup on a stock vl Rb30e is comparable to stock L28e, ie shit

hey... Time has come to buy some weatherstruipping for the car, i want the full car new stuff, so wheres a good place/ with a good price to buy for the car.. looked at ebay, can get sent to my door for around 350 for full kit

Hey, this isn't the datsun, but the corona, but a overall car related thing that can happen to any car... k the starter is clicking, but the motor isn't turning.... sometimes its fine then 3/5 times starting the motor it doesn't start and 2/5 times the starter just click but not turning the motor, nor turning the starter motor.... the car starts when, jump started, or after it doesn't start and i manually turn the motor over then start the car via key new battery, reco starter, all wires checked and cleaned... nothing is on... no voltage drop when car is off, and when car is on sits at 14.5v, omhs between battery and starter motor is 0.034ohms so its not the wires, My theory is that the pinion on the starter is jaming with the teeth on the flywheel, and the car has done 285k on the original flywheel so id say its a little old, and might be warped, or just worn and doesn't bite and turn... if you know what i mean.... any other theories

old thread but stilla worthy topic... i still havn;t decided my color yet and with around 3-4 days to choose it, its coming down to either pewter,... which is a gunmetal grey/silver... or basically a chilli red... both look great... I love white as well, and id love to paint mine white... but for some reason i feel its a little bland... and you can't see the lines as much.... but id love to see a white one that has pearl paint thou it... would look really nice...

either gav or sulio have the speaker box done in there cars, i can't remember which one... had it... but a few hours in the shed and a trip to bunnings for some materials will make it a decent job out of it... just try and make it nice and tight... when i made my last one in my Z, it wasn't tight and it just flung around everywhere when i went for a drive... .

there is clear coat, but the car is dirty, and its gotta be cut and polished. buffed etc, next week and it will come out all shiny... i actaully wanted to put more coats of paint on, but i only bought 2 ltrs, and did arond 2 coats of the paint and 1 coat of the clear, so i kinda ran out of paint and didn't want to buy more at $50 a ltr yer im happy to spray the Z myself, spraying is actaully the easy part, the prep work of getting the body 100% before you spray it is the hard part... espcially today when i was out there in 35+ degree heat trying to sand the bugger, at least its free gym..... i don't work at crown, but i work at a bar near crown, and crown has the cheapest and closest parking so i park there when i work...

here are a few shots of the new spray job on my daily corona.... just a crappy job that took only a day or 2 to do... few dents here and there still, but i couldn't be bothered as they will come up again when i work at crown... just needed a job cause of some rust, and the roof would've rusted thou if it wasn;'t done soon.... same brown color, Total cost was $185 with paint and materials.. but the car is properly worth only 600 so its ok... thats what i was up to over the last coupla days, now going to finish the Z and get ready to paint it... Oh, and thats my first spray job ever, with some assisting from my dad who never painted a car ever as well... but learnt alot...