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gav240z

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Everything posted by gav240z

  1. Dude, are you talking about a normal Aussie delivered S30 or the 432 and 432R and 240zg (HS30-H) models? In Japan a 432 will fetch big money, much like a KPGC10 GTR will. If I had the dough I would pay the right money for any one of those cars. $25K is what a reasonable restoration job on a 240z will get, there are buyers out there willing to part with more if the right car comes along. 6-7 years ago you could pick up a good 240z for $10k things have and are changing. I myself would like to import a genuine Fairlady 240zg one day, I have been considering building a replica with my 240z, but not sure yet.
  2. gav240z

    No caption

    From the album: NSW Photoshoot September

  3. gav240z

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    From the album: NSW Photoshoot September

  4. gav240z

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    From the album: NSW Photoshoot September

  5. gav240z

    No caption

    From the album: NSW Photoshoot September

  6. Good to hear, I didn't make sense to come that far and turn around again. I know because I was trying to think how I would buy it, but then I thought I have already collected all the hard to find bits for my L28 build and I should really just stick with the plan. Stuff the monies!
  7. Video of a Datsun 260z with a VG30DET engine. Owners says 450HP. http://www.engineswapdepot.com/?p=418 I like the widebody style.
  8. Forgot to say welcome to the forum. PS: Your title says "Hold out" for a 2 seater, I think that says to me you want a 2 seater.
  9. I agree price is a little on the rich side, but it does look clean. It looks strange without the front bumper on. Definitely check for rust, have it professionally inspected and if the owner has before and after shots before it was repainted (if it was) etc. Engines / mechanical work are cheaper to repair, body work is expensive as stated. Some argue that the 2+2 handles better than the 2 seater due to the extra length in wheel base. I tend to agree the 2+2 feels like a slightly more stable car, the 2 seaters tend to be oversteer happy. (Just my opinion here), but I personally prefer the 2 seater shape and I like the 240z style the most (tail lights / dashboard / interior) differences. I think when searching for a car patience is key, once you have bought a car you don't want to be thinking if only I waited, you will know the right car because after all the other cars you have inspected, this particular car stands out as the best. Kind of a gut feeling more than anything, but you generally only get that after having seen at least 10 different cars I would say.
  10. I tend to agree with everything you said there, I've seen alot of people selling their toys with the current economic climate. Unfortunately the 240z - 260z to many is just another Japanese car, regardless of its classic status, it doesn't have the same pull as the early Aussie muscle cars. The early rotaries have found their niche though and I think that comes down to the fact that cars like the RX3 did relatively well at Bathurst, but the 260z 2+2 made 1 appearance in 1975 from memory and so did the 240k coupe. They were not that successful, I guess Nissan just didn't put much into the Australian market, they seemed to be more focused on the US market at the time. If you can get a car at a lower price, all the better. If the seller is ignorant that's his fault, at the same time he may just want someone to take it and get rid of it for him. Rather than hang onto it for a few more months waiting for someone to cough up 3-4k for what is obviously a project car. Regardless the car in question is going to need a few grand thrown into it before it can be even put on the road again. Offer $500 work your way up from there I say. If he wants alot more he can always try his luck on ebay or carsales.com.au or whatever.
  11. I got no sympathy for him, hes let that poor car rust out under a tarp for the past 20 years. If you can get it for $500 go for it, every car restorer loves to think they can still get a bargain .
  12. Well technically they are not an exact copy, but they are a knock off of the original design idea. I think this car looks sounds, like any zed I'd get it checked for rust issues though and check to see engine number matches that on the compliance plate. I can't really flaw much in it to be honest, but if I was being really really picky. 1.) Exhaust tip is not the original design 2.) The drivers door panel has been cut for a speaker and covered over (door trims are expensive now - pay $500 - $800 for a good brand new set). 3.) Don't think those are the wing mirrors it left the factory with. But they are close. 4.) Would hope he still has original hub caps as they are getting quite scarse and expensive now. They are D pattern hub caps, not the Z ones. Some real positives: 1.) Dashboard looks like its never been reskinned - so original pattern (glove box is darker colour though??) 2.) Original centre console and choke / hand throttle cables. 3.) Appears to have early seats (non reclining) 4.) Not sure when the 2400CC valve cover was stopped, but since it doesn't have vents in hatch I assume its got the correct rocker cover. This is a real transitional year car so some bits on it are very early, while others are more like the later 240's. I'd say its a worthwhile car, provided its rust free.
  13. 1.) The 240z's all had MPH and the switch over happened in 74 with the 260z to KM/H. 2.) The very very first 240z's in Australia had a fender mirror set up, but not the chrome style ones. The really rare first zeds had a square type front fender mirror. I've seen a few 240z's in Australia with the bullet style ones but they are black in colour. I think the chrome ones come from the Bluebird P510 (Japanese market) or 1600 as they are known over here. The 240z style ones were slightly taller too. 3.) In Australia we never got a 4spd box as far as I know. All 240z's even from 1970 had a 5spd box, but the early cars had the A-box with different housing and tailshaft adaptation. I also believe the very first zeds had a slightly different shifter hole (position wise) than the later ones. Hope that helps, anyone who cares to correct me, feel free.
  14. Hi mate, Welcome to our community. Australian / NZ delivered cars are stamped HS30 as a chassis prefix. Japanese cars are S30 only and US delivered HLS30 note the (L) for LHD. This is a very basic overview it gets alot more complex when it comes to chassis numbers as you will probably find out eventually. If you find a car and think its a good buy, you can always ask us on the forum to tell you what is and isn't original for that year of car. Our members have loads of knowledge and can help when it comes to sorting out issues like this. Cars often come up on ebay with varying descriptions, infact I'm yet to see a description on ebay I agree with, so feel free to ask us about a particular vehicle. Greasy underbelly probably means a rear seal on the gearbox or possibly the rear main seal on the crankshaft. Not expensive part itself but labour to get to that part is what will often cost you. Best way to know where it is coming from is get the grease cleaned up and monitor for where the leak is coming from. Relatively minor issue though i would say. Rust is what you should be concerned about and these cars sometimes look good exterior wise but can be hiding alot of rot so do a search on rust and see how you go. I would say for a decent example with a few flaws you will be looking at $15k.
  15. Yes of course you can fit a more modern motor, but you will drastically devalue this car. This car is very original and looks to be an early car. If you keep it original you will have a car worth a lot more in the long run and as somoene who is a bit of a purist it would be a shame to see this things with a Volvo V6 or equivilent. There are just not that many early 240z's around at all anymore. They are a bit like a golden unicorn, find one and keep it. You could put in another L-series, l24, l26, l28 that is reasonably fresh. The engine may not even be siezed if you are lucky, although looking at it, I'd be surprised if you could get it running without damaging the bores. If you are going to drive this car daily I would consider an RB25, but honestly the cost involved with engineering and other madness, you will be no better off. You could rebuild and refresh this L24 motor quite easily if you are familiar with the cars. I wouldn't say it would cost you 10K. I would guess about 4-5k for a quality engine rebuild.
  16. Cool zed, would love to go rallying in a 240z.
  17. That's one of the best things I've seen today.
  18. Nice, wonder what reserve is set at.
  19. Car was sold long time ago. Great buy at the price. Wish I could have snapped it up myself.
  20. LMAO, this is pretty funny. I like the Lurch image with Ted Cassidy. He does kinda look like you Lurch . Whats with the Bogan Hotwires . Are your new wheels still rubbing?
  21. Welcome to the site and thanks for sharing your project with us. I've been approving your images every day of the last week or two. Been good to see your progress. Like yourself I would eventually like to undergo a lengthy restoration of my Zcar, but I enjoy driving it too much to pull it off the road for an extended period at this stage. Although having said that I haven't driven it in a whole year as I've been working overseas. Keep us updated and again welcome.
  22. If Chris is happy we're all happy .
  23. gav240z

    Tail

    Did your lenses have hairline cracks? Mine do and I need to repair them. Tail lights are worth spending time on though as after 30 + years they have carbon build up and other gunk. Great tail lights look clean
  24. Thanks Alan will get in contact / send email tonight.
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