gav240z

Thanks Peter, I made this post a sticky. I also found this page here: http://www.240zrubberparts.com/apps/webstore/products/show/4423585 For those that want the OEM look and feel. It also has good photos of what these rubbers look like. I've been around Z-cars for years but even I didn't know these existed. Having said that I've got to spend more time with my head buried in the parts catalog it would seem. I always assumed old cars were just not as good as modern cars, but it's amazing how good the quality of these cars were when all the missing bits of trim and put back on them.

Sell your stock ones to offset cost of ZG ones?

If we're looking at colour options in my opinion the most underrated s30z colour for 240z's is the original blue shade. http://s30zed.blogspot.com.au/2010/04/say-hello-to-11651.html

I take full credit.

So after bringing the rear hatch into tafe and speaking with the teacher, the decision was that the easiest way to repair this will be to fabricate the lower section of the hatch. Now you might be wondering why? If it's only the lower edge that's rusted? Well the bog that was in it, was also covering up several low / high spots and previous damage. It would be possible to repair what is there, but the idea here is to undo the spot welds where the glass goes on the lower edge, make a small cut on the right and left hand sides and then replace with the new section, do a few spot welds and small weld lines on right and left hand side of glass. The other advantage of cutting the bottom section off is that I'll be able to get access to the bottom of the hatch to remove any surface rust forming and treat the area to help prevent any further corrosion. So here is how it will be done. Paper template is used to mark out exactly where each line, fold etc.. will be in relation to other parts of the hatch. Can you spot what's missing? Yep the lock / key-hole. I forgot to trace that out first time. Notice how we're also tracing out the vents? Well... hindsight is a wonderful thing, but that basically means I could have got a regular 240z rear hatch and turned it into an early hatch. However I wasn't to know, but for anyone else out there just grab the best condition hatch you can get and you can relatively easily add the vents in. Once I had the pattern ready I got a fresh sheet of steel and then used a scribe to start marking the fold lines etc.. Next week I'll start shaping the metal hopefully.

Can someone PM me the address again? I roughly remember how to get there but seem to have lost the address from last year. *Yes SatNav makes us all lazy.

+1 only thing I can think of that would cause it to change.

Awesome, yeah I'm really looking forward to receiving my Rally Clock(s) from Ron. I was originally thinking of selling 1, however I might just keep both (1 for each Z). I just wish he could re-furb all electronic components in a Z. Like turn signals, wiring looms, other gauges not just clocks! On the show "For the love of cars" where they restore a Mini Cooper. There is a segment on a guy who restores classic car gauges. Alan Davis is his name. http://youtu.be/_8F6CZi7sXw (~36 mins in) Sadly it would seem that their profession is a dying art.

So when do we get a how to replace your floor pans tutorial from the master of Z restoration? Can it still be done without putting the car on a rotisserie, up on axle stands?

Don't like the sound of a 20B? I'm a self confessed rotard though. Plus you said reliable, rotaries can be a little fussy if not given the proper care they need. I think the weight difference is comparing a stock 20B with all it's twin turbo gear on it etc.. A non-turbo 20B motor should be very light sit far back in the engine bay and have a low center of gravity. But it would be pushing it to build 1 at $8k and do the conversion. In fact I don't think it would be possible on that budget. A 13B however would be possible and would make for an interesting weight distribution set up. (turn the volume down!)

Just a few pics of how it could look restored.

Hi Everyone, So I managed to source a calendar clock for an S30z. You can read more about this clock here: http://www.zclocks.com/rally-clock-identification.html This is obviously a US centric view of the clock, it would be best suited as plug and pray (in a 260z) whilst it can be modified to fit a 240z also. http://www.zclocks.com/sale-items.html You can see prices for such conversion are listed as a guide here: http://www.zclocks.com/pricing.html I currently have 2 of my 2 knob rally clocks with Ron for repair and the feedback I've heard so far is excellent, a fellow member also PM'd me to say he was really impressed with the work done by Ron. I'm going to list this clock at $200 AU as is, you can then send to Ron for repair and refurbishment as it is untested at the moment. However on the plus side it isn't missing the knob and doesn't appear to have been tampered with (just weathered obviously). If there is no interest I may refurbish it myself and price accordingly. PS: It came with the amp gauge in the photos, I don't need this either (have 6 already) so will sell that for $50 to anyone interested.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-Z-Series-orinignal-Datsun-240Z-Series-I-Low-VIN-000913-/141481451735 Described as a low vin S30z. "Datsun 240Z Series I...Low VIN 000913" It's in quite a state. It is 1 of the nicer early colour combo's.

Yeah in fairness it was pretty well hidden, hard to tell without stripping it all back. But honestly it's a 40 year old Datsun tailgate, if it didn't have any rust I'd be more surprised. It is still far better than the other 2 I had to work with and it looks very clear everywhere else so should come up good. I also managed to get that snapped bolt out of it without too much hassle (where the rear strut attaches). Thanks for attaching the pic of the strip disc / flap disc that's exactly the 1 I was using.

My guess. These are actual physical photos that were scanned into a computer and therefore come out mirrored. I'd say the photos are from some time ago now and likely the car has deteriorated since then. At a guess...

Try this. http://www.justauto.com.au/justcars/cars-for-sale/ATW3563537

When I grow up I wanna be like Ando San. I love learning old school restoration techniques. To reiterate what he says about dud restorations check this out. http://japanesenostalgiccar.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=22669&start=40 It was linked to from that article. Buyer beware.

Bidding went up to nearly 40K USD - which is about 45k AUD at current exchange rate. Car did not meet reserve. Don't blame the seller, I wouldn't have sold at that price either. Just goes to show that even in the US with their abundance of supply, prices for early S30z's is on a rapid rise.

Because the sandblaster was really slow to remove all the body filler in the hatch, I decided to try the grinder with strip disc on it. The strip disc looks like a pancake of sandpaper (don't have photos) but any strip disc should be fine so long as you don't get too aggressive on it. The only problem? I looked like I'd stepped off the planet mars afterwards with all the red dust that went everywhere. I wore a dust mask and face mask / goggles for eye protection as quite a bit of debris can go flying. I also wore my overalls because I'm happy to get crap and debris all over them. You wouldn't want to wear a white t-shirt you like. I'm not sure on the health hazards of body filler dust? But old paint can contain lead. http://medicine.yale.edu/intmed/prep/worker/hazards/dust.aspx http://www.hse.gov.uk/mvr/topics/dusts.htm And what can I say? It worked brilliantly when it came to removing the bog and paint. Very fast and very effective compared to sandblasting. Bottom left. It is relatively straight except for the corners with rust. I think someone hit it with a hammer and then filled with bog. Underneath. I was pleasantly surprised to find no more rust or nasty surprises. So overall very happy with the hatch and much better than the other 2 I have. I have a few ideas on how to go about the rust repair, but I'll consult my tafe teacher for his opinion on the best way to fix it and proceed from there.

I'm afraid I've not seen anyone offer them. Perhaps call Rare Spares and push them to make some? I'm sure if there is a market for it they would do it. There is after all many more 2+2's around that need love. I feel it's kind of a chicken egg scenario, in that more 2+2's would be restored if there was replacement body panels / sections available like there is for the 2 seater and as a result more suppliers would make parts for them if more were being restored and there was more demand. If ya get my drift? Just a minor update in terms of door progress. See the way the door skin meets the door shell at the top left hand corner? Well here is the passenger side for comparison. You need to trim the door skin a little, then weld it to the shell in the top corner here. Problem was when I cut this section it didn't quite look right (no photos sorry). But the skin was a little short and so I needed to use a MIG welder to gently tack on welds to build up the area and used a finger sander / file etc.. to knock down and shape the area. How it looks on the car. The next challenge is the front right of the door skin where it meets the A-pillar. How it looked. Passenger side for reference. You can see the upper stainless door trim is shaped in a way that helps you determine how the door skin under it should be shaped. But someone cut or modified my door trim at some point on the driver side. I actually think the trim on the driver side was off a 2+2 because the rubber trim that runs along the window is longer than the upper stainless door trim (which isn't the case on the passenger side). I've so far welded it up in this area. I've filed it down a bit and it just clears the a-pillar. But before I can modify it further I really need the upper stainless trim, hence my wanted thread. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,15083.0.html Once I have that as a template I'll be able to determine exactly how much to modify this part of the door skin and that may allow me to adjust the door a little bit more to improve the panel gaps by a couple of mm which should put it spot on. I'll also be putting the latch mechanism on and door handle etc.. so that I can open and close the door and see how it sits etc.. Once that is sorted we can file finish the door skin edges which will sharpen it up and finish off the door. This is what the panel gap looks like at the front. But I think I can improve it ever so slightly. So what's a rust free door worth to you? Now that you know how much work is involved in restoring a rusty 1?

Seller http://www.ebay.com.au/usr/kopmanbutik I like the oil cooler set up. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/BRE-Dual-oil-filter-adaptor-and-oil-cooler-set-for-Datsun-260Z-240Z-1600-etc-/191414051924 Triple Webers. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Triple-Weber-Carburetors-on-Cannon-manifold-suit-Datsun-260Z-and-maybe-240Z-/191414044392

You can remove the bottom half as far as I'm aware. I wouldn't try as you'll damage it. You should be able to rechrome it though. I'd refresh the wood grain first. In terms of the button I'll send a PM.

I was tempted to skive off work Friday and have a look at it. But that would just be greedy.

Yeah I think the body is probably average. Hence the single photo and lack of details.

North American S30z's don't have fuel door locks is that right?