gav240z

It was listed and sold faster than I had to really take much notice of it. Thanks to the Google-bot cache I can provide these pics. It certainly looked straight and would appear rust free, but who knows what is under the paint?

Fair enough? Seems like an absolute bargain to me. But obviously you would want to inspect for rust etc.. Looks like it has fender mirrors mounted on the door.

They look like HS6 SUs to me. Can tell by the nozzles. Why are you trying to rev past 7k anyway?

Ask Dad what happened to the fender mirrors? Since he owned it since 72 did he change them?

That door re-skinning process looks awfully familiar. They make it look easy too! But it takes a lot longer than 27 mins.

Moorabbin Auto Spares video. Shows Ash's Works Replica 240ZR I'll have to go down and see him and take more photos of it.

Yes pics are a must, lets see it in all it's patina'd glory!

Hi guys, So I did a quick search and only found this thread. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,4291.0.html which sadly has broken image references on the second page. My plan is to go to Clarke Rubber and buy some new seat foam. As seen here: http://www.australianjavelins.com/technical/seat_repair/seat_repair.htm and possibly cut to the shape I need based on the original foam template. These are the covers I have. I guess I'm looking for info on how to go about restoring the seats, as in what tools are helpful to have, any tips and tricks for restoring the foam, springs, seats bases etc..? I'll be sure to post photos of how I go about it once done so that others can use it as a future reference. Surely someone here has done it already though so any tips would be appreciated.

More collector car interest in Japanese Classics. http://carstories.com/2014/12/jdm-car-collectors-looking-towards-east/

If the roof is good it is worth $1000 on its own. But I doubt the roof isn't rusted. Might have other parts worthwhile but the body is shot to shit.

Hey thanks mate. Yeah I'm really happy with it, it is certainly an intricate little thing. I forgot to mention on the video it emits a low frequency hum. It isn't very loud like I've read some people say it is so maybe if they are loud is is a sign of wear or faulty oscillator box. You can hear the mechanical noise of the clock gears moving if you listen carefully. Sort of adds to its charm. Pressing the right hand knob resets the sweep hand or zeros it. Which I figured out after the video. I wanted to install it because I asked Ron what kind of maintenance they need. He told me best thing to do is keep it running. When old electronics sit unused they can deteriorate. So best thing is to keep it humming along. Not sure what I'll do about the second 1 yet but I might set it up in my house and have it running since HS30 00150 might not be on the road for a while yet.

There is a red pair on Gumtree at the moment.

Hi everyone, Since finding any information about these clocks is so scarce and I had to figure this out from scratch. I thought I'd share the info with others as it may help someone else lucky enough to have 1 of these clocks and it can serve as an educational piece for others who are interested in this sort of thing. So to begin with this is what the clock and oscillator box look like. These mounting photos were provided by Alan T (HS30-H) here: http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/22917-rally-clock-clocks/?p=203553 The oscillator box is attached via a long piece of wiring loom, I had read that the oscillator is mounted on the firewall, but I didn't know exactly where? There is also a positive and negative wire that goes to the clock unit itself. These are exactly the same as the standard clock as shown here: Looking at this diagram helped me figure out where to mount the oscillator box. But then I got to the car and was confused when I saw this? I thought maybe it went near the kick-panel? On the other side was the fan unit and I didn't think it would go directly under there? It turns out you need to pop out the little square tabs in the firewall insulation. It felt weird removing something that had been on the car for 40+ years untouched and left there from the factory for this specific purpose. Behind the 2 tabs are bolt holes and from the diagram above it looks like the screw that fits into them is the same as that which holds the 3 center gauges into the dashboard. I brought 1 spare with me from another dashboard I have. But I didn't have the same for the other side of the bracket so I used another temporary bolt for now. I'll get another 1 of these bolts for the other side to match later. On top of the oscillator box is a label that says UP, which means mount upwards obviously. So I did just that Next I installed the clock, I removed the old clock as you would any other gauge. The tricky part was getting the now polished and scratch free Rally Clock into position without damaging it. This was actually a little tricky and I had to turn the clock on it's side get it near the gauge pod hole and then turn it 90 degrees again to face the front of the dash and I managed to put it into the gauge pod without any damage etc.. It seems the clock has a little less space around it mainly because of the glove box. Then I screwed the retaining nut into place and put the globe in as with any other gauge. The only difference was that I had to plug the oscillator loom in also. So I had to feed the loom over and around the heater/fan blower unit and it was the perfect length to plug right into the oscillator. How it looks installed on the S30z. Finally I put a small little video together to show the clock working and in action and how you use it. Which is basically what this image shows. Video

I saw the Magazine at the airport when I was in Auckland for a short stop over - so you're internationally famous now.

I was half tempted to go look at this 1 also when it popped up. Looks like a great deal and an early girl also. Canberra rust free? I'm jelly.

I can't make 18th I'm afraid folks. Have fun without me though.

Hi guys, This gear knob is a 4 speed button version (think part no. is C2885-H9300) and it seems a little bit thicker than the other ones I have in my 240z's. On the positive side the chrome is a bit pitted looking but not flaked off and the wood is in excellent shape, likewise the 4 spd button is in excellent shape. The photos highlight the flaws much more than you really take notice in person. Photos below. Price: $120 neg.

L-series engines make a lot of valve train noise anyway so it might be normal? Post a video of the car running? On these old cars you have to adjust the tappets. Your mechanic may not be familiar with older cars needing tappet adjustments. Spoilt with all the new technology and all that stuff!

Try a hard refresh perhaps? Shift + F5.

Thanks for clarifying Alan, that photo wasn't very clear to begin with.

It's a good price, but if it went for much less than that I would have been tempted myself.

Yeah I figured that may have been the determining factor in terms of which radio we received.

Datsun 240 Z Sports (1973) 2D Coupe 5 SP Manual (2.4L - Twin Carb) http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=111548212904&globalID=EBAY-AU&alt=web But please keep it original.

I do have a pair of rails I could include but I've modified them. So not sure how useful they would be.

http://page18.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/w115948789 Yowzers $2000 AU for an OEM choke set up for a 260z.