gav240z

Thanks Roady very useful post, if I build my ghetto L-GATA I plan to document mods and then eventually dyno to see results. Provided my rebuild doesn't blow up on me first .

Not in Australia.... I've seen a few in Japan but you gotta import them and hope they are not shagged when they arrive. Subaru R180 LSDs can be adapted I think I've read, not sure how hard it is?

Yeah I was watching a quick demo video on it, don't you have to pay to install it on your phone? I know it's probably a once off and used across many forums but that may deter some...I'm also mindful of people getting irritated to install the app each time they load the site on their mobile phone or tablet. I will see if there is a way to disable that perhaps? The software has inbuilt mobile friendly theme which should give most of the benefits of tapatalk from what I can see, except you won't be able to manage it perhaps through tapatalk (as in manage all forums in 1 place). Depends on how things go I'll look at maybe offering both options, first things first though . PS: SMF offers a tapatalk plugin also.

The new software is Invision Power. https://www.invisionpower.com/ I'm not familiar with Tapatalk but it looks like it is supported? https://tapatalk.com/activate_tapatalk.php?plugin=ipb Can you tell me what the benefits of tapatalk are?

Thanks mate, I've actually used the recent donation money to purchase new software. I'm in the process of testing out the migration process and I'll upload a test that people can log into and give feedback on soon. The new software should be light years ahead of this current software and it will make a whole lot more things possible. In turn it means I'll eventually be able to move the site to the Auszcar.com domain rather than be stuck with Viczcar.com and possibly give people better options around their build thread by offering the ability to start their own blogs etc.. Might be also able to improve the classifieds and make donations more of an automated process. Like give people access to the site for 1 year without advertising (when logged in). For those who don't donate or just guests who are not members they will see advertising etc.. I just have to be careful what I promise because all of this is time consuming in amongst trying to manage my own restoration project, maintain my other cars like RX-7 (which I've thought of selling the reasons you mentioned but not sure I can do it yet) and trying to also organise a few other things I'm doing on the side. Like selling refurbished clocks (as 1 example). I guess if I didn't somewhat enjoy these things I wouldn't be doing them haha .

+1 to what George said, another member here warned me against DIY plating kits saying he'd done it and it simply wasn't worth the hassle. For the cost of outsourcing it makes much more sense to take it to a professional. My own concern is trying not to get all the bolts and fasteners mixed up. I'll see if I can find the post where someone basically said don't bother unless you really want to learn etc..

Ad says sold lol...

Sorry guys forgot to include link, it's on Gumtree. Have edited original post to include link now. At that price I don't think it matters, rest of the car looks solid enough so I'd say probably not too bad. Can always get on the group buy with Nat0 in SA. Oh dear, flying start hey? Good thing this is in Victoria (St Albans) but can't confirm with Gumby Tree being down.

Although costs aren't exactly laid out in front of you I still think 1 of the most informative sites for an S30z enthusiast is Z-Garage which has been around since 97 or so I think? I seem to recall finding the site right after I got into S30z's and was still in high school. It was hosted on the now defunct Geocities . http://datsunzgarage.com/ This section in particular is useful if you plan to retain the SUs and want to see what you can achieve. http://datsunzgarage.com/dyno/index.htm

Not even the Porsche's of the same era had good rust proofing. What often gets neglected is that the PS30 and HS30's (especially HS30-Hs) were limited numbers and are highly desirable. Also the PS30 was a very expensive car when new in Japan. If I recall correctly it was priced at the same level as Ferrari's of the same vintage. The PZR (a.k.a PS30-SB) is as desirable and limited as the 911-R ( Now I know the article said "Datsun 240z" but that's half the problem, so many 'automotive experts' know nothing about what the Japanese had to offer. So they don't even consider the Nissan Fairlady Z. I guess I just get tired of hearing about how 'second rate' the S30z is compared to other marques. Or Japanese cars in general, when I think about the early rotary coupe's of the same vintage I can't help but think of how incredible it was that not long after Mazda started making wankel engine cars they were out winning racing with a completely 'revolutionary - excuse the pun!' powerplant. It's as if today Tesla went out racing and starting winning in their electric vehicles, which I honestly think they could do but haven't.

Aston Martin will help it's customers restore their classic cars.

I'm guessing maybe air con, immobilizer / alarm? By the way I love the duct tape on the fender. "There's nothing SHHHTICKY TAPE won't fix mate".

1973 Datsun 240z on Gumtree. $3,500.00 Negotiable *Edit to include link to gumtree* http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/st-albans/cars-vans-utes/datsun-240z-1973/1077819358 Gumtree says it's currently offline So here is the cached link for now, don't think phone number will work until it's back up.... Everyone is gonna be waiting to hit that buzzer! http://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache:v4eYSmHk12gJ:www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/st-albans/cars-vans-utes/datsun-240z-1973/1077819358+&cd=1&hl=en&ct=clnk&gl=au Bargain? Yes...

They look completely non-standard to me. Looks like they go to the firewall and under the dash? Where do they go?

Only way to learn is give it a go, stuff it up and pay a professional. Simples . In fairness if you end up need a new door skin, you're in the same place you started.

Thanks mate, yeah I've been looking but it's hard to know from photos how good they are. Is there a list of brands I should go for? I have a cheap hammer and dolly set my step dad bought years ago when he dented my mum's volvo (they were dating at the time) so I still have a bit of a chuckle about it. Anyway when I was in Melbourne around Christmas I dusted the set off and took it back to Sydney with me, well what a disappointment. Just very cheaply made and I haven't used them at all on my 240z for fear of doing more damage than good. 1 of the hammer heads fell off the wooden handle within about 3 whacks on a piece of metal I was practicing on. So I really want to avoid the cheap Chinese made junk...Hence the reason I was looking for some vintage / well used tools that have 'proven' themselves. This is the hard part for any beginning knowing the difference between cheap and good quality tools and what to look for etc..

How rusty is your door? From the photos I saw it looked a little beat up, but if it's not rotten you may be able to save the skin you have on it with a skilled panel beater. Otherwise I'd look at a rare spares door skin. Especially if the shell is in good shape. The only reason someone should really go to the effort of sourcing a new door is if the existing 1 has been bent badly (frame is beyond repair) or the shell itself is so rotten that to fix it would be economically unviable. Door skins are cheap and shouldn't cost much to reskin a solid frame, even if outsourcing the work to someone else. The frames are a bit more tricky...

Thanks. Looks like his Hammer and Dolly is the Eastwood Fairmont brand. I'm guessing that nobody recommends finding second hand used tools then? I kind of like using old stuff that has done the rounds rather than shiny new tools. I think I might buy a decent starter kit to give me the main tools I'll use and then look in other places for more obscure dolly's, hammers etc.. that might not get used that often.

I can understand where you're coming from with this. I've given it a lot of thought in terms of best bang for buck. But also what I want from budget etc.. I'm still on the fence here in that I'm considering spending $10k+ on the motor or just doing a simple refresh and looking for ways to retain drivability but maybe make the car a little more alive. Let's assume a standard 240z, L24, points distributor, standard SUs and exhaust system. Assuming the motor needed a rebuild anyway... 1. L28 block, if you need new pistons anyway overbore to 3.0L 2. High compression flat top pistons. 3. N42 head - if not doing anything other than clean up. P90 if you have budget to make higher compression. 4. Rebuilt SUs with suitable needles for bigger motor (consensus seems to be SM needles for L28). Or if budget allows Triple 44 Mikuni's. 5. Port match N42 head and SUs or Triples if available. 6. Electronic ignition recurved to suit camshaft profile. 7. Mildly aggressive camshaft profile. 8. Performance valves with seats cut to suit. Maybe tidy up valve seat / throat area to ensure smooth transition. 9. Exhaust manifold from Stewart Wilkins Then I'd look at a 260z close ratio box (2.9 first gear) with a tall 5th gear for freeway cruising and perhaps consider an LSD 4.1 or 4.44 ratio diff. I'm guessing that would total maybe 6-8K depending on options you chose.... Maybe yield around 200-230 HP at flywheel?

The whole episode was a bit disappointing, at least they didn't try to give too much of a history lesson. The whole camshaft swap glossed over lash pads and rocker arm geometry. I'm guessing maybe the grind didn't require a change in lash pads here? But if the cam was well worn surely the rockers and lash pads were also? I think they considered triples but realised how expensive they were... I would have preferred he went for the original hubcaps and he really low-balled the guy when buying the car it must be said. Especially if it really was rust free...

I'm saving OEM bolts where possibly and will re-zinc / yellow chromate them. If I snap them or they are rusted too far etc.. I'll try and source more from a wreckers or similar. You can sometimes find them on eBay but at crazy prices for OEM ones. I really wish there was an entire S30z fastener kit.... that would save a lot of hassle.

For some reason I'm getting another part no here... 26740-10W00 http://page5.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/e160897725 Priced around $100 but still too expensive considering the list price I'm seeing is half that.

*Sigh* It's good it is getting recognition but I really wish we could shake the "poor man's " moniker these cars seem to attract. Why does it have to be a poor man's anything? Surely it's good enough to be a great car on it's own merit not because people can't afford Porsche' 911s, Jaguar E-Types. I prefer the S30z to both...If I really wanted to I could probably buy a Jag E-type or Porsche 911 (probably rough ones) but I simply don't want either of them. I don't think I've ever referred to it as a poor man's anything... and I'm an enthusiast.

Hi guys, So I've been looking at a good set of hammer and dolly to buy, my tafe course this semester is on hold due to lack of numbers so I'm hoping it will resume next semester. In the interim I'm looking to press on on my own so I was researching hammer and dolly sets. I found recommendations for Snap-On (expensive) and Martin (a little less expensive). http://www.eastwood.com/fiberglass-handle-body-fender-hammer-dolly-7pc.html?reltype=3 Unfortunately Eastwood's can't give me an accurate shipping quote upfront and if I know anything about shipping from the US it's super expensive. I was wondering with regard to panel beating tools etc.. What is the best place to find 'old school tools'? There must be panel shops that close down and liquidate etc.. Where can I find used tools that are high quality? I've looked on Gumtree, eBay, Graysonline etc.. but it seems hit and miss. I guess what I'm ideally looking for is perhaps someone who is retiring and getting rid of quality gear.

I think I paid more than $800 to restore 1 side. So sounds like a deal to me. @Wings you didn't mention what year your 260z is, different years have different latch mechanisms.