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Hi, Interested in driver side door (RHD) or passenger side (LHD). I'll contact you. Cheers Steve

Hi guys, Can someone tell me which carb (front / rear) has the short or long float needle. I removed both carbs from the car not realising that they front/rear specific because the float needle length's are different. Thanks Steve

Good on ya for taking the gamble and buying it. I know a guy who has been looking for years and will probably still be looking because he is too picky. One of those dreamers who wants an A-class condition car but is not willing to pay the appropriate asking $$. Even with the amount of rust so far I think it's still a good buy Des. When I was inspecting my Z before I bought it I took along with me a small magnet which I used to test whether an area had bog or not. It's a very simple and crude method but it works. You can quickly tell whether an area has no bog or heaps of bog based on the intensity of the adhesion. Same thing applies if an area is rusted away, it usually won't stick that well.

Great buy. Knew it wouldn't last long!! Looking forward to your build diary.

So i guess its sold to Iceburg ? If I didn't already have my 260 I'd buy this

$7k neg is a pretty good starting price but I wonder how bad the rusted floor is.... and if the floor is rusted there's a good chance it's hiding other nasties elsewhere.

Love the attention to detail. Love your work Scott.

Very nice looking 240z mate. What's the rule down in Melb regarding driving around town with historic/club plates on non event days ? I know in NSW you can't drive unless there's an event on

I'm guessing it doesn't matter if I accidentally score or mark the top of the valve spring retainers during the prying process ?

Tried to remove the rocker arm to texta the wipe surface and see what the wipe pattern is but I can't remove the arm. I was under the impression that once the rocker arm retaining spring is removed the arm should be pretty easy to remove. Not so in my case. The valve spring seems to be pushing against the arm. What's the best method to compress the spring ?

Hi guys, I'm after a pair of cork gaskets for the round top fuel bowls. Mine were warped and can't be re-used. Does anyone have a pair they would like to sell or know where I can get it? Thanks Steve

Zedman - I had a closer look. They look to be all the same height. Gareth - Just looking at them in situ they seem to be the same height but I guess they need to come out and measured with a micrometer or at the very least verniers. This is how they look. cyl #6 cyl #4 Does anything look obviously wrong from this angle of the engine ? How can you tell if it's a stock cam or aftermarket ?

I'll have to take the rockers out and do a wipe pattern check. I'll also measure the lash pad thickness and report back. I measured the gaps with the lobe pointing up.

Thanks for the reply Dave. To answer your questions. " what clearance can you get with the adjusters wound right down ? " - I'll have to put the feeler gauges on and get back to you. "What is the history of the engine ? " - No idea. I bought it off the 2nd owner and never asked him about the engine. It did come with 240z round top hitachi's so there was some fiddling around. "Any chance it has had a different cam put in it ? " - No idea. What does the OEM cam look like ? Can you visually tell just by looking at it? "Have the valves been replaced ? " - once again no idea. The owner I bought it off never mentioned anything about engine work being done. I'll have to remove the rockers, texta it and reinstall to see what the wipe pattern is like. Also I noticed in your last pic you inserted the feeler gauge on the valve side not the adjusting nut side. Is there any difference which side you insert the gauge from ? Do the lash pad's simply pop off or are they screwed in ? If all I need is thinner lash pad I could mill off some material at work.

The adjuster post is lowered as far as possible. How do you remove the rocker ? A pic of the cover off cylinder #4 lobes cylinder #6 lobes Do the lobes look ok ?