mossy Posted August 4, 2009 Posted August 4, 2009 I just went and checked Lurch, at TDC the rotor it pointing at #1 Edit: when I removed the dizzy at the wreckers I think there was a ground cable at the base of the dizzy which i don't have hooked up now, could this be a problem? Quote
RB30X Posted August 4, 2009 Posted August 4, 2009 but is it TDC after the inlet stroke but before the exhaust stroke? Quote
silverz Posted August 4, 2009 Author Posted August 4, 2009 My car coughed & spluttered the first time I tried it. I was one positio out with all of the plug leads. Sorted that and fired straight away. May pay to check again. Regards Peter Quote
chris240 Posted August 4, 2009 Posted August 4, 2009 Edit: when I removed the dizzy at the wreckers I think there was a ground cable at the base of the dizzy which i don't have hooked up now, could this be a problem? no this ground cable doesnt need to get connected.. are you getting spark when you turn the ignition ? pull out a plug & check.. also is the coil you are using supposed to have a balast ? that coil looks suspiciously like a 9v coil....(Dimitri zedman240 would be able to confirm) also set the dizzy to 8deg advance....ie clockwise. Quote
mossy Posted August 4, 2009 Posted August 4, 2009 but is it TDC after the inlet stroke but before the exhaust stroke? No idea, thats too technical for me Edit: when I removed the dizzy at the wreckers I think there was a ground cable at the base of the dizzy which i don't have hooked up now, could this be a problem? no this ground cable doesnt need to get connected.. are you getting spark when you turn the ignition ? pull out a plug & check.. also is the coil you are using supposed to have a balast ? that coil looks suspiciously like a 9v coil....(Dimitri zedman240 would be able to confirm) also set the dizzy to 8deg advance....ie clockwise. I checked all the leads again and they all seem to be good, checked for spark which is good also, as for the coil I got it off a R30 engine with the elec dizzy so i thought it would be 12v Quote
acf321 Posted August 4, 2009 Posted August 4, 2009 I'm going to need one of these 280ZX dizzy's for the brown hornet .. Can anyone tell me if they're avail new, and what is the price? Cheers Quote
Administrators gav240z Posted August 4, 2009 Administrators Posted August 4, 2009 I'm going to need one of these 280ZX dizzy's for the brown hornet .. Can anyone tell me if they're avail new, and what is the price? Cheers I think you can get them brand new from Nissan but they are expensive ($600) from memory. I think the best option is to look on Ebay US and find a reconditioned 1. The electronic modules on them tend to be the most expensive item and they are usually 20 years + old. Quote
Moderators Zedman240® Posted August 4, 2009 Moderators Posted August 4, 2009 Mossy, Hook up a timing light if you have access to one and see when #1 cylinder is firing. Sounds like plug leads maybe out or timing way out. I think the R30 Skylines use 12V coils but not sure. TDC at number 1 is on the compression stroke ready to fire the plug. Both valves closed and rotor pointing to cyl number 1! Quote
mossy Posted August 4, 2009 Posted August 4, 2009 I should have pointed out that when I first tried to start it coughed and spluttered and almost turned over but now it just keeps trying to turn over so i can't even get it started. Quote
C.A.R. Posted August 4, 2009 Posted August 4, 2009 Check there's spark at the plug. Other than that, it sounds like a fuel issue Quote
mossy Posted August 5, 2009 Posted August 5, 2009 Put the old dizzy back in and went to see Daniel at DJM automotive, it looks like the leads were a bit dodgy and the cable that went from B terminal to the coil was replaced also then she fired right up, while I was there Daniel did the timing as I had no idea how to do that either, its very responsive now so I'm definetly happy with the upgrade. Quote
stevo_gj Posted December 29, 2009 Posted December 29, 2009 Hey just thought I'd confirm that this process is the same for the 260z. The 260 tacho connects up the same way? Quote
PZG302 Posted December 29, 2009 Posted December 29, 2009 Steve, Should do as the ignition system was basically the same between 240 and 260. Quote
Huw Posted December 29, 2009 Posted December 29, 2009 Ok well......had been wanting to do this before heading to Japan (mid jan) but have run out of time and money thanks to some random drunk....in the city deciding that tyres can be cut while people eat dinner..... I have a 280ZX dizzy...the module and shaft are in good nick but it could use a refurbish before getting installed, does anyone know a place that will do that? or is there a kit available? (prefer the former as time and energy poor). Huw Quote
stevo_gj Posted January 7, 2010 Posted January 7, 2010 I performed the swap myself last weekend and it went very smoothly. I only had to fabricate one wire with a ring fitting on one end to fit over the coil, and the bayonet fitting at the other end to go over the dizzy. Apart from that it was a simple process of removing the old coil and dizzy, which was a matter of a few bolts, and placing the new components. Once done, the engine started immediately and I was able to drive the car easily. I gave it a quick tune on the carbys leaning it out and then adjusted the timing slightly and voila - drives better than ever. I'll put a few pictures up in my build thread and link it back to here later. As many other have said, this is a very simple and easy conversion for an amateur, and makes a noticeable difference to your engine. Quote
PZG302 Posted January 8, 2010 Posted January 8, 2010 Good to see all running well Steve. Have you got the tacho hooked up yet? Once that's done and you get the idle set at around 600-800 then you can make the final adjustment to the timing to make sure it's in the sweet spot all the way through the rev range. Quote
stevo_gj Posted January 8, 2010 Posted January 8, 2010 Hey Matt, Not yet, I've been procrastinating replacing the Taco but I'm probably going to do it tomorrow. Quote
stevo_gj Posted February 20, 2010 Posted February 20, 2010 Just tried to hook up the new tacho I got from Dimitiri and it didn't work. I'm pretty sure it's not the tacho that's the problem. How do I test whether the Tacho is getting the correct signal? Quote
ChrisZ Posted February 28, 2010 Posted February 28, 2010 I assume it's a 3 wire tach, pull it out, or use your old one, connect it to the battery + /- the third wire (yellow IIRC) should then be connected to the - (minus) side of your coil, a bench test in your engine bay , it worked for me, my tach is okay, but a PO had cut the tach wire, while installing a Pertronix Chris Quote
stevo_gj Posted April 28, 2010 Posted April 28, 2010 Alright so I'm finally going to deal with this now that I can't hear the RPM based on my gearbox whine. In the photo below can I assume that A goes to the +ve battery terminal, B goes to the -ve battery terminal and C goes to the -ve coil when testing it out of the car? Cheers! Quote
Moderators Zedman240® Posted April 28, 2010 Moderators Posted April 28, 2010 The zed tacho's are triggered by the +ive side of the coil, not like other tacho's being negative. Quote
ChrisZ Posted April 30, 2010 Posted April 30, 2010 Hard to see at the photo, is C a loop (2 wires making a loop) if so and your car will start and run, your tach is toasted, get a new, that loop is a part of the ignintion system and the car will not run if it's not connected. Chris Quote
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