Huw

So, in terms of short update, I have tried my hand at 'reverse engineering' the piece on CAD. The only variable I don't know is the height of the two protrusions for the bracket - - so I have guessed by (i) taking a measure off the mounting bracket and the radio and calculating the 'gap'; and (ii) uploading a whole bunch of pictures to AI - some with measures to give scale, and sent a prototype off for printing (yes, I wish I had my own but the cost of the printer could go to other projects. My measurements are not great as I only have fairly rudimentary tools (have yet to invest in a vernier at home, most serious work is done at dad's shed). Hopefully I manage to get something that works. Although, I still think it will ultimately get 'bubble wrapped' and put away with my original aerial for the next owner wit ha Classic Auto Sound one going in - will see.

If you have some, it would be useful to trace out or scan. I don't think they would need to be particularly strong. There will be movement through the dash as you drive which may flex/fatigue if too thin but otherwise it should live a fairly sheltered life. I had been thinking of attempting with hand tools in the first instance (on assumption that I wouldn't be able to find something that could be copied). But I am certainly not an engineer etc!

Ah, my ignorance shows through. I hadn't clicked to that but had noticed the difference in the brackets. If could get hands on the bracket it would be easy enough to copy.

Well, just to provide the information for anyone else who has the radio but not the brackets. You can see them on the below: S30 World provides a useful exploration. https://s30.world/articles/a-hitachi-km-1520zc-radio-deep-dive Useful photos on the S30 World site included: And, after all that, with some upcoming longer work drives that may see me on the phone, I am thinking of putting in the ClassicAutoSound unit instead! (Existing would get packaged up neatly for if I ever pass on the car)

Thanks Gav, I had been gathering photos as well but hadn't had any with those two brackets. My radio just has the case without the brackets. That would explain the difficulties. Strangely, no materials on line for it. I couldn't see it on the part diagrams etc, so that photo is great. I suspect we will have to make something to replicate the bracket.

Hi all, Does anyone have a photo showing how the stock radio mounts in the 71 zeds? I had understood that it mounts on the bracket that runs across from the the dash (shown in diagram from manual) without any additional bracketry. Previously had a modern unit in there with the metal cage. Going back to stock. Not in my shed, with a non-zed specialist mechanic (for other stuff as well). Huw

Posting for anyone with interest - not my parts but from an Alfa mechanic that my family has used for quite some time. As he doesn't do much with Zeds, has asked us to spread the word. Model: 280Z Sport Rear Muffler Contact: Sam Tucci (0419 three nine two 290) [Italian Job, Oakleigh] Asking $300 ONO

I had no issue with getting the hoses from Nissan recently. I got a new heater tap from JDM without any issue.

Hi, While I haven't re-installed and tested yet, I wanted to give a quick plug for Mark Sully of Old Car Radios fixed. I sent my Hitachi radio and Harada antenna off to him to be refurbished (not restored - as still had chalk marks etc on it) and checked over (and to have an in-line blue tooth receiver put on). Despite my worries about sending what is now quite valuable off to someone I had not met, he did a really good job with good follow up and information (and at a reasonable price). (13) Old Car Radios Fixed | Facebook Home - We Fix Old Car Radios Wasn't brave enough to do myself (as other members have done). H

Yes, I was expecting it to be in dreams or sell kidney territory. Still, it will be interesting to see what they come up with. I see Les is their distributor in Australia.

Some more idle conversation and speculation. I am assuming some of you saw the recent NISMO twin cam L-series head? Nissan Develops 240Z DOHC Upgrade Decades After the Car's Retirement (thedrive.com) https://www.instagram.com/p/C3bdk4dpVH2/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link Most of the commentary seems to suggest it is unlikely to end up readily available and, even if it did, likely to cost a pretty penny. Interestingly, the team at L6 Head Project also announced that one of their new head projects is a twin-cam head (all in Japanese), amongst other interesting projects.

Hi all, So, 20 years ago I put a used (repaired) heater core into my 1971 240Z as part of the restoration. Works done by a store in Mordialloc, did a great job on the core and an uprated radiator. However, after driving this weekend, I noticed that there was some coolant leaking inside. I assumed non-standard heater tap had gone again. However, when I had a closer look tunnel was damp and seemed to be a larger leak from the core itself (explain the drop in coolant). Anyway, I don't have time/energy to do the heater core work (2xkids and own business), wonder if anyone has a shop suggestion around SE suburbs? (we are in Hawthorn but I have a shop in Moorabin in mind). Will be: - fault diagnosis (although I have a strong suspicion); - fix; and - hopefully, new cooling system cables all round (had been meaning to buy from US but a shop should be able to make easily) - heater system has always been NQR (I built it...which explain a lot). Have to do it before I can move on to the fun stuff of getting the interior really right... Huw

Hi, Having just bought a house with no garage (pay it forward, next house should be suitably fitted out), I have had to locate alternate and nearby housing for my zed. I have found a secure parking spot (CCTV, underground, security passes, handshakes etc) but the park that is available backs on to an area where water/rain could get in during bad weather (it is shielded by metal grating etc). As such, I am looking for a car cover for the zed that: (1) fits; (2) breathes; and (3) is good for light exposure. All of the covers I have previously owned have fitted terribly and simply annoyed me. (By storing it this way rather than where it currently is, I have some hope of driving it more regularly despite the slight compromise on storage). Any suggestions / recommendations? (1971 240Z). Huw

Aside from ZTherapy (postage and US dollar scares me) - does anyone know of a good: - source for kits for the Hitachi SU Carburettors in Australia? - shop in Melbourne to send them off for refurbishment (on the basis that I probably won't have time to do them myself...)?

Thanks, with a proper clean of all of the electrical bits and new plugs, fired up quickly tonight. However, suddenly wants to idle at 2k with linkages all slack so something is still off. Suspect will need to rebalance / adjust carby's but not set up for that where I currently am (all of the tools and space I need are up in the hills in the family shed, not at home). Now to wait for a morning/afternoon where I can skive off work and kid duty to figure out the balance and get it running nicely. Carby's have needed a rebuild for a long time so may just bite the bullet to eliminate them. Neighbours probably won't appreciate if I do it tonight once kids asleep :p Once I get the idle down, it off to the shop for a proper tune and work through of the carbs. [Edit: a 10 minute play today has revealed that at the very least the rear carby is contributing, the choke which previously got stuck and would 'snap back in' if you checked it now has significant play in it such it won't snap back and it is unlikely that the car would hold tune...going to have to take it off and have a proper look (or more likely, send it somewhere to rebuild them both)] Huw

Well, after just dusting off the zed and taking him out a couple of times last week, he decided to complain about treatment today. Breaking down on Lonsdale Street at 5PM was spiteful though and made me very unpopular. Anyway, lost cylinders and power, sputtering and wallowing at 1-2k rev, wouldn't idle. Tried to limp on until out of city but stopped and then wouldn't start again. Once got home off truck have: - cleaned plugs (rear SU carby choke 'sticks' and sometimes causes rear plugs to gum up - a rebuild is on the cards (or replacement with EFI). - made sure I had fuel all the way through (I do) - briefly checked that my 123 dizzy hadn't died - still connected and properly mapped). Still doesn't want to fire. Starter is strong and cranks but only weak attempts at firing after significant cranking. Didn't take plugs out and check spark. Ideas? I have it either as ignition or carbys in my mind. Was running (poorly) this morning. Ran better on a brief run yesterday. A bit time poor thus the request for ideas. If not, he will be off to the doctor on Tuesday (need to get him on club plates anyway so...). May get 6 new plugs just to eliminate gummed up plugs but that is a symptom and not a cause. Huw

Well prices are up with a spec/explanation in different specs. Taking orders. Base model without valve / guides in. Second and third have valves and guides in but differ in material used. Says domestic only - don't know if this a permanent state of affairs or just for first batches. L6_spec4.pdf

Waiting with baited breath - they had planned to announce the price / variants at a car show in Japan today - pulled out due to covid but I assume the price/details will still be published. Will update with a link once it all goes up. It will be interesting to see what the specs etc are.

Of course, I wouldnt be surprised if Gav or someone has already posted on this and I am late to the party!

Hi All in Japanese but may be of interest to some. There is also a write up in one of the Japanese magazines (I think it was Nostalgic Speed [Edit - it was - Vol 29 (Nostalgic SPEED vol.029　2021年8月号 | 芸文社カタログサイト (geibunsha.co.jp))). A group of 3 or so shops collaborating to remake L-series heads with a more modern design and manufacture. http://www.pams-japan.com/30cafe/project.php [Edit - they have youtube updates on the project - here is one; there is also one for the first test race at Motegi] Looks like they hope to manufacture and sell this year. They are currently testing the prototype. It will be interesting to see how it goes. Huw

Would love to hear if any updates on this as I hope in coming years to be refreshing the l24 in my zed. Has been rebuilt 10 years ago but left stock at that point. Now thinking about doing more rather than drop an l28 in.

Hi, just wondering of the name of the Melbourne crowd for one-off orders? May need some 240z rear glass. Huw

Where did you get it? I bought one from the US with base and general shape?quality very good. However, the glass/metal was not beveled and due to this it ‘flopped’ in the mirror frame while moving (admittedly, the dirt road on the way from where it is stored would loosen anything but still very unsettling). Think I solved with a bead of silicon but have not done many miles since. Car looks amazing in monochrome.

Hi Years ago I removed my lighter finisher (chrome ring on fuse cover, not lighter) to get a 12v accessory socket to fit in flush. As part of cleaning up my centre console I have reverted top stock (looks better - undoing crimes of youth/first restore). Anyway, for the life of me, can't find it (we have moved a number of times in interim). Does anyone have any ideas where to get the finisher or something to use for it? Otherwise will probably try to make in two pieces (angle of tubular section join means would be hard to do in one) on lathe and solder together. Huw

So, I am in the process of restoring my 71 console, which is fairly good. Only a couple of areas that warrant attention being: - holes at the back; - previous owner drilled holes (clean but may fill) (at least I think they are po drilled - happy to be corrected - 4 holes in `bow shape`) —->edit—> looking at Gav`s photos confirms suspicion. - two broken sections (missing) at top of gearshift hole and at bottom of fuse box hole. [first photo is top of gearbox, second fusecover] Two queries: With the last item, just wondering if anyone has a photo of a 71 underside that shows these as I want to confirm if there is a cut out on the top of the gearshift section or if I can just path in a single piece. Photos may be clearer. Edit —> subject to correction, Gav`s photos suggest both were single pieces and complete (ie no cut out at all). The reason I asked was that the top of gearbox `cut out` Looked very regular - as if properly cut. Second, I am thinking that the two holes at the back were always a weak point and to use the lathe to make up two metal pieces that will take the bulk of the countersink and to fiberglass these pieces in. Stupid idea or workable fix? — As a 71 there appears to be a fair proportion of fiberglass in the console compared to a later 240. Plan to primarily fiberglass the repairs rather than attempt too heroic a plastic weld. Had thought of reinforcing sections but concerned re creating new stress points in old console. Thanks Huw