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Posted

Whilst i know one should not ask, BUT, what sought of costs to date have been spent on the care to date, in terms of body work.

 

The 2+2 i have purchased is as bad if not worse then yours. Mind you, it too was only $1300 and i know it will have countless hours and money spent on it.

 

I plan to do a lot of the work myself, things like cutting out rust section, unpicking the floors and alike. I suspect at least 5K to get the body ready once i have done a lot of the rust repair myself.

 

Mechanicals will be all done by me, being a mech engineer has it's pluses

 

Anyhow, let me know how much you spent if you don't mind.

 

Thanks

Posted

hey mate

 

do me a favour and make sure your seating down when and if adam tells you the cost,

 

for 5 k i think you will be lucky to get it finished but that depends on the quality of the build

 

:)

Posted

This is not the usual type of restoration.

Whilst the work being done on this car is amazing, it is a lot more work then you will normally have done when you just want a car repaired and looking nice. I think this is more a show quality restoration.

Posted

sorry 5K is for body work after i have done all my bits. In total i have 15K for works on the car over the next 5 years or so. Covering mechanical, interior and paint and body. My car won't be show quality, mainly a nice car for me.

 

A lot of my work will be free and a lot of favors about to be called in. Paintwork as such, other then material is free as well. Just the fabrication of any bits and final body finishing.

 

I would have though 5K would be ok to do final finishing on a car. I have rang a few body works which are interested and they charge about $30 per hour, so for 5K that is 166 hours to do finishing of the car.

 

Anyhow, still love to know.

 

 

Posted

Hi Guys, thanks for looking at the Hornet.

 

Not sure I really want to say what this has cost me, but I'll make these few points. I am pretty fanatical about this car and its true what Garvice says, this really is not your average restoration. So far, Nat has done over 650 hours on the body, all documented, and i'd say there's plenty more to get it put back together (some of which I will help with). If you can get your labour at $30 per hour i'd jump at it, as most restorers up here are quite a bit more. I'm not a mechanic, nor an engineer, so if you can do much of it yourself, then this is a real bonus.

 

I am genuinely very excited about my 240z project as my plan is to have it just the way it left the factory, albeit with some nice modest upgrades. I did not want to go turbo, as my last car had one and I still tremble at the thought of what trouble I could have got myself into, and even with that you cold boil an egg in the time it took to spool up!

 

The spec for the hornet was to make a period correct light and nimble car with big naturally aspirated HP.... what I see as a real drivers or 'sports car'. Massive HP but with lots of weight was not something I wanted. Have a look at the Caterham R500 to see what has inspired me. My recipe is <1000kg and 250hp, which should do the job nicely.

 

I really think that with all the Euro cars and even early Holdens and Fords having gone through the roof in recent years, I believe (as does Nat) that Japanese classics will follow. It might sound stupid, but I think I might get back what I put into this.. just have a look at what the japanese are paying for nice ones now!

 

Anyway, I hope i'm right.

 

Good luck with your project.

 

Cheers

 

Adam

 

 

 

 

Posted

Yeah most panel beaters here are a little more too, these guys are doing it as a cash job and so forth, you know what it's like ;)

Posted

... My recipe is <1000kg and 250hp, ...

 

Adam. I have been led to believe that the first Aus 240Zs were 1044kg and were up to 1099kg with the introduction of the 260z 2 seater.

Posted

Thanks Peter .. always wondered what they weighed out of the factory.

 

I'll be avoiding use of all the tar underlay, tools and spare as well which might get me close.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Week 22...

 

Was not planning on going to see the hornet today, but alas I did and Nat was actually blocking it when I was there. As far as I can see the alignment is 99% done, and straight with the only issue now being the drivers door skin, where the gaps are just too wide. Nat is planning on completing this, then we're ready to complete blocking and onto the stone guard.

 

F&R bars are on, but given they both need straightening and chroming, I am considering buying a set of aftermarket stainless ones from Ebay. This is likely to be a cheaper and better option than repairing what we have, especially with the dollar where it is.

 

I ordered the Kameari Twin Idler gear and fully adjustable cam sprocket as well, given strength of the currency. Am even tempted to grab the watanabes while the Yen is where it is.

 

Cheers

 

 

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Posted

You can see the masking tape on the sides that Nat is using as a guide for the blocking. The lines should be pretty straight when done on this.

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Posted

week 23...

 

What a difference a week makes. This week the Hornet had been completely hand blocked and aligned and was sitting in two pac primer when I saw it. Must say, it really is starting to look good now! The purpose of priming is to check the lines, and Nat will again shape, guide coat, block, dry sand, wet sand and then re-prime in the coming week. To me it looks finished, but there remains quite some work to have her completed.

 

Just ordering some final parts from the US and then it should be about done.

 

Received my Kameari twin idler gear and adjustable cam sprocket and was pretty surprised by the quality. Now I have all the parts for the motor, so will get these to James to make a start on the build.

 

Seeing NZeder's red 240 with those 16" wheels has made me pretty confused again .. do I go 15" or 16" wats? Decisions Decisions

 

Enjoy

 

Adam

 

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Posted

Looking oh so smooth Adam!

 

I've got a lot of work to do to mine if I want get anywhere near your quality bodywork...

Posted

Week 24...

 

Nat's just about finished final blocking. The dark lines and patches on the Hornet this week show the remainder of the guide coat left after blocking. Interestingly, he found a couple of high spots that chamfered off nicely. Rear deck, roof and drivers side still needs more work, but it almost looks two tone with the roof a darker shade with guide coat still on.

 

Engine is at build phase, with only the harmonic balancer now required. Transmission has been rebuilt and we can confirm its a later 260 item with brass syncro rings. Its been wet blasted and fully reassembled. We have not changed any ratios (noting its all pretty standard stuff), but may address this if we deem it necessary once done. James has a 240Z item that I could swap with him (for authenticity), but not sure of the merit in doing this. Block has been hot tanked, pistons made, flywheel seriously lightened (-2kg+), and rods drilled out for larger gudgeon pins. Still awaiting balancing of the above, once its bolted together. I can't wait to hear its shreaking, popping and farting once done. Exhaust will be 2.5" custom stainless with small hotdog and sports muffler.

 

Wheels are a bigger decision than I thought. I know they'll be watanabe, just not sure if we go for RS type, or F8 (effectively the same wheel with less dish). Given the body remains standard, it'll be 7.5" front and likely 8" rear ... maybe 8.5" if i'm feeling lucky. Keeping 55 series tyres in keeping with that old school look.

 

I've got the new seat covers and diamond vinyl kits ready to go in.

 

Next stage is Nat finishes the blocking, re-primes, and does the stone guard underneath and inside (like NZeder). The outside is then hand sanded with 800 grit wet and dry and its into the booth for the paint. The method here is for 2 light coats, 2 heavier coats, and one final thin coat with more thinner, the purpose being to give a smoother finish. Not convinced I'll go for a clear coat yet.

 

Checked out my suspension again today ... I think the springs are King brand with Koni inserts. Not sure, but we will confirm this when we get them apart. Nat's keen to make sure we get the height just right ... See the green 432 i'm using

as a benchmark for the suspension settings.

 

I'm actually getting pretty excited about this now ...

 

enjoy.

 

Adam

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Posted

Looking at it, they are very nice. I'm almost betting they're 16*8 front and 16*8.5 rears. The standard bodied car doesn't seem to be able to fit anything larger. Love that colour too.

 

Cheers

 

Posted

You can get 9inch rims under the back of the Zed with rolled arch lips.

Offset has to be spot on though...

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Week 26...

 

Been away for 10 days and returned to see Nat's completely finished the body, and is adding seam sealer, badge & mirror holes and generally finishing everything ready for paint. The car still has one more guide-coat and sand ahead of it before 800 grit wet sanding prior to paint. Believe it or not, Nat's been finding high spots this week that are now gone.

 

Once this is complete, we'll add the stone guard underneath and inside pre paint. Colour is determined, has been tested and looks (in my opinion) very good. Suffice to say its a 70's racer and will look like it!

 

I went to James Flett's MIA Engine Services workshop today to drop off the cam, carbs, valve springs, inlet, and Kameari parts. The block has been hot-tanked, bored 60 thou (to ~2.5l), and skimmed. Gearbox, head and timing chain cover have been bead blasted with mild scotchbrighting, giving a factory fresh satin finish. E88 head is very fresh with only one helicoil insert evident, and no other evidence of damage or corrosion. All the magic on the head is yet to occur, which will almost absorb 50% of the budget of the build.

 

Pistons and valves have arrived, fly is 2.5kg lighter, and rods and crank are balanced, with new seriously strong rod bolts (not sure of brand). Assembly should only be weeks away. Still need to acquire extractors, and while the tuned length ones do look incredibly tempting, at three times the price of the SWR product, they're probably not warranted.

 

I called Nat on the way home to ask him to add a few more seam welds on the strut towers, as with this engine I could be tempted to throw this car around a little more than I thought.

 

Hopefully by next time I write, we'll be somewhere near the spray booth...

 

Cheers,

 

Adam

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  • Administrators
Posted

Great to see another update. I guess you are keeping the colour a surprise until its done? I'm sure you picked a great colour and can't wait to see it with a lick of paint on it.

 

Bodywork looks amazing so far.

Posted

Forgot these yesterday ...

 

I spent a heap of time cleaning and polishing the rear tail lights and after re-assembly I could not bare the look of the chrome bars ...

 

I had them re-chromed and the results are outstanding (but a little exxy). The quality and shine speaks for itself .. See the before and after shots. I taped off, primed and painted the middle with satin black.

 

Cheers

 

 

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