mossy Posted July 22, 2009 Posted July 22, 2009 Steering wheel looks good Adam, where did you pick it up from? NZeder what about JB weld, I've heard its very good. Quote
acf321 Posted July 22, 2009 Author Posted July 22, 2009 Thanks Mossy Found the wheel on Japanese auction site ... they tend to cost a lot once imported. So if you find one, you need to add ~50% to the purchase price once delivered here. Mine was in pretty good nick, but i lightly sanded the spokes and taped it up for what it now it. I'm thinking of also buying one of those leather style covers to place over the out rim also, to accentuate its fatter rim, and place a genuine leather cover over what is the factory rubberised finish. NZeder, regarding the centre button, mine had a few hair line cracks also in the outer radius ... I got some super glue and filled these cracks before using clamps to crimp it into a smaller shape to hold the glue ... Once this was repaired, I placed a few strategic drops of glue around the inner rim of the hub (where it clips to the actual wheel), which once dried acted as a means by which to grip the actual wheel. In a word, you do not have to buy a new hub, but 'fatten up' the inner rim such that it grips to the steering wheel. Mine works really well. Cheers Adam Quote
mossy Posted July 22, 2009 Posted July 22, 2009 Just saw one on yahoo japan, starting price $790 , I think I'll stick with my Nardi deep corn. Quote
NZeder Posted July 24, 2009 Posted July 24, 2009 good idea's for the centre/horn pad - I will give it ago. I have just given a list of part number to my local Nissan dealer who has not let me down in the past with checking if they are NLA or not. I will let you know the results once I get them. These part number are for a bunch of rubbers/seals etc - I know you can get some of the stuff aftermarket but I thought I would check with Nissan first as new OEM stuff sometimes is better. Quote
acf321 Posted July 25, 2009 Author Posted July 25, 2009 Week 10. Just popped down to check out the motor and box in Nat's shed ... a few things are twisting my arm to go with a fast street L24 ... not exactly sure why, but looking at 'Jims 71Z' its given me inspiration, and reminded me that a fast street L24 is probably going to be sufficient for me. It also adds to the authenticity of the overall project. Did not have the camera with me, but Nat's put the front qtr panels and rear tail on the car ... it actually looks more like a car now ... he was just trial fitting and checking alignment ... all the same, its good to see it with parts on it, and it actually reminds me of a 240Z !! I really need a passenger door ... Project is stopped until I find a good shell at least. The one we have is way too riddled with holes to move forward with. If you can help me, pls drop me a PM. No photos... forgot the camera. Cheers Quote
S30Mike Posted July 25, 2009 Posted July 25, 2009 You sure you wouldnt rather just drop an L28 in there? I mean its not really that pricey, and it does just practically drop straight in and they go great! however i can vouch for L24 triples setup being fast enough, paulys goes good! Its your decision at the end of the day, and i suppose if your going more "original" and feel you need to keep the L24 i can understand, and you can always drop an L28 in later too, but might be worth thinking about. I mean essentially there the same engine! Quote
acf321 Posted July 25, 2009 Author Posted July 25, 2009 agree with your comments Mike .. its just someone recently said you either go full bore L28, or L24 for originality, and given the amount of effort going into everything with the car, I'm leaning more towards originality, having said that I don't plan to use a 'stock' motor of any description. Mike I just PM'd you on another matter ... have a look and let me know. Quote
Zedback Posted July 26, 2009 Posted July 26, 2009 Just caught up on your journal, great work. You are definitely not alone, my '71 is in a similar state. I went and bought another one to do while I work up the courage to tackle it. Please do keep it coming, and I wish you all the luck in the world in hiding the credit card statements from the wife Quote
acf321 Posted July 27, 2009 Author Posted July 27, 2009 Thanks Mike .... It's called Internet banking ;D For what its worth, I did call Nat today regarding the issue of the door and gently slipped in the question I forgot to ask him when I gave him the car ... he charges only $70 an hour labour, which frankly is very competitive compared to most guys in this field. Am not sure what it is about looking at a seething pile of datsun junk in the corner of the workshop that I've frankly sunk a small fortune into already, BUT I have started to get a little more excited about it all ... maybe its that I saw it last weekend with the front panels on !! Still struggling to finalise a colour ... the lime green one on the front of the website does look pretty cool tho !! Quote
acf321 Posted August 1, 2009 Author Posted August 1, 2009 Week 11.. Did not see the car as Nat's away, but they've done a lot of work apparently. Went down to see James Flett (MIA Engine Service) today to talk the spec of the motor. As you might have seen, I'm sticking with an L24 (albeit in name only). Today I bought a block and head (P30 and E88) and work will begin once I get it (hence the reason for the sale of my L26). James (and others) have suggested that the free revving character and flat torque curve of the L24 is very often overlooked by the outright pursuit of CC's. I've been in a few L28 cars, and while I was not left wondering about the torque, revvability (is that a word?) was not really a feature of these cars. The L24 with be a peaky high RPM device sure to put a grin on my dial. Some of the ingredients we've agreed will include; US Cam (not sure of make, but could be Rebello), total head port, value job etc, much lightened flywheel, balanced everything, custom flat-top pistons, O.E.R 45mm side-drafts, Custom headers, elec dizzy and ignition, and 8,000rpm capability. We'll be looking for 100hp/litre, so doing the maths, added to a 950kg or so body, she should be able to show a pretty clean pair of heels to .... literally anything should I feel the need. FWIW, this car should have an 18% better power/weight ratio than a 930 porsche!, or be in line with a 996. Here are the photos of James' car .. I was absolutely gob smacked by how beautiful it was in the flesh. I love the colour, and given my car was orange from new, its a fair bet i'll be using this same colour. James has 15" panasport's with Dunlop Formula-R semi-slicks. The overall condition and build quality of this car frankly is beyond anything i've seen. It really has to be seen to be believed. Can you believe he offered me a drive and I said no!!! Wife was waiting. rgds Adam Quote
Administrators gav240z Posted August 1, 2009 Administrators Posted August 1, 2009 Its an amazing car alright, very clean and very well put together. I can't believe you said no to a drive, especially since you would have been able to see how the engine was to drive. I agree the L24 definitely has a peppy nature compared with the L28, although using a different set of rods with the L28 / LD28 crank helps to improve it. You can get lots of power out of the old L24, I've read about some of the numbers achieved from the l24 block back in the 70's when they were racing them and you certainly don't need the extra capacity to get a thrill of a ride. Quote
chris240 Posted August 1, 2009 Posted August 1, 2009 Brain snap of the year !! James offers you a drive and you say no :'( Id love to see his 240 up close...interesting comments about the revability of the L24 ...hmmm Quote
RB30X Posted August 2, 2009 Posted August 2, 2009 Some of the ingredients we've agreed will include; US Cam (not sure of make, but could be Rebello), total head port, value job etc, much lightened flywheel, balanced everything, custom flat-top pistons, O.E.R 45mm side-drafts, Custom headers, elec dizzy and ignition, and 8,000rpm capability. We'll be looking for 100hp/litre, Can't wait to see this go together. Where will you source pistons from. Be sure to post all those details up cause I'll be heading down this path soon hopefully. Quote
mossy Posted August 2, 2009 Posted August 2, 2009 If you don't mind Adam post up a breakdown and total cost of the engine build when finished. Quote
C.A.R. Posted August 3, 2009 Posted August 3, 2009 Guys, at the request of the OP can we PLEASE keep this thread on topic? Quote
acf321 Posted August 8, 2009 Author Posted August 8, 2009 Week 12... Nat's away again, but I called them mid week and Mike told me they'd been "a grindin' and a hammerin' all week" .. Surely its GOT to be getting close to something resembling a car by now.. more photos next week. In the mean time, I bought an L24 (P30 & E88) and am having it sent to M.I.A Engine Services today. Like the car, its a sight unseen jobbie, so I have prepared myself for a less than spectacular outcome. However, James will be boring and shaving the block for the new overside domed pistons, and the head will be completely worked inc; valves, springs, porting, shaving etc. We'll be running 11:1, so premium unleaded sounds like it'll be necessary. Just bought a set of 'O.E.R racing carburetors' from the US and matching alloy inlet manifold (see pics). From pretty much every source I've spoken to, the OER's are a very high flowing carb, that as one member suggested flowed up to 17cfm more per port than a 45mm weber in tests. In case you've not heard of them, OER started when Mikuni bought Solex in the 1960's and later changed the name to OER. They use weber jets and tubes (so are very tunable with lots of available parts). They are very similar in design to the Mikuni, but have aluminium bodies for 'added lightness' and are fully adjustable externally. Here's some photo's ... pretty aren't they! Cheers Adam Quote
Add Posted August 8, 2009 Posted August 8, 2009 Looking awsome mate Getting a loan of a digital camera from a mate in the next few days, so i'll take those pics you wanted. Sorry about the delay, never been much of a camera nut. :-\ Cheers Add Quote
acf321 Posted August 8, 2009 Author Posted August 8, 2009 Sorry Lurch ... I think I meant to say flat-top pistons. Yes Mike, they are 45mm OER's, which also are available in 47mm and 50mm. On another note, MIA just called to tell me the engine looks to be 'very good' and appears to have had little use. The inlet and exhaust sides have both been well ported, which should save some billable hours !! So it appears at least the engine is not the heap of sh%t the body was! Quote
nedloh312 Posted August 9, 2009 Posted August 9, 2009 haha Good! I was kind of nervous that something would be wrong with it but Bret said it looked pretty good when i dropped it off Can't wait to see what it turns into, seems everyone with a car in Sydney knows about MIA so im sure it's going to be a ripper!!! Quote
acf321 Posted August 15, 2009 Author Posted August 15, 2009 Week 13... Was a big day for me and the hornet today. Went and had a look at the car early, and Nat's been flat out and is 95% done on rust removal and is now finalising a few bits and pieces, including front radiator mount and spare wheel well (which we are replacing with a 2nd hand one). Now we'll be priming absolutely everywhere, and once painted will be applying clear fishoil to keep the rot out for good. Took the L26 over to James for him to determine what we can use for the L24 project, and then got in the car to drive half way to Canberra to pick up a passenger door, front overriders, and complete rear bumper from Brenton. Not much more to report other than to say I think I've just sold the webers. The person in one of the shots is Nat. Cheers. Quote
acf321 Posted August 15, 2009 Author Posted August 15, 2009 Forgot to mention. Received my parcel of rubber seals this week from the US. Bought absolutely everything new OEM Nissan including front / rear /side window seals etc etc. Did not buy the two piece OEM door seals, but will instead go for one piece pinch weld stuff that appears to work better and is a neater fit than the two part OEM items. Nat will now begin the task of trial fitting all the panels to get alignment 100%. Suspect this will be somewhat tricky, however given the car has not got evidence of a major bingle, it should be achievable. Next step is to choose the colour, and then completely renovate the suspension including blasting and paint. Quote
C.A.R. Posted August 15, 2009 Posted August 15, 2009 Looking good Adam! Is the wheelarch in the last pic going to be repaired? Quote
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