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Posted

Steve, looking awesome, makes me want to sell the MX and spend the better half's money on one to match the green car!!!! ;D Hope she doesn't see that, or there'll be a bloodied corpse in the gutter.

 

Now all you need to do is get rid of the ancioent carbies and update to to the new world of L28 injected goodness. In a couple of years I might be bale to give you agood price on a very good L29 ;D

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Posted

Hey thanks for the comments guys. I'm pretty satisfied with the ride height (inch lower than stock thanks to king springs), I already have to angle it over speed bumps and driveways, so any lower would be inconvenient.

 

will you do with the side front mudguard indicators that are still painted black?

 

Hey Lynton I'm pretty happy with them for now. I'll look at them in the future perhaps but as Shaun said they don't look out of place.

 

I decided to give the car a full detail today in preparation for going to Shannon's tomorrow. While I was at it I primed and painted the windscreen wipers and bonnet vents. I'm a pretty poor painter, but they look a lot tidier now.

 

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Posted

Thanks Steve but can not get the link to work. Have you any idea what that sort of job would cost to anyone else?

Posted

I can only guess mate, but if I had to put a number on it I'd say between $2-4K. Entirely depends on your car and exactly what you want done ie rust repairs or whether you want it taken apart or just painted in one go. Best bet would be to take your car to the workshop and get a quote, you'll find he's quite freindly.

 

Also I don't know why the link wouldn't work since it works fine for me. It's a link to a thread I just made in the 'recommended businesses' section.

Posted

Thanks mate, I found it. My car is still in rebuild stage and ready for paint but I am not to sure whether to have a go myself or get the pro's to do it. Check it out in my thread peter t's project. Would like to have it done before all new interior goes in.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Steve the old 280Z Flamingo has come a long way. Well Done.

 

That paint Job is mirror finish pristine as well.

Posted

Steve the old 280Z Flamingo has come a long way. Well Done.

 

That paint Job is mirror finish pristine as well.

 

The Flamingo has flamin gone!!

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Shaun and I installed my new gearbox on the weekend. It has the internals of an S13 including a double synchro on second and a VL main shaft, and the external appearance of a 260z box. As such it bolted up nicely to my L26 with the only exception being that the starter is now fastened using nuts rather than a thread into the gearbox itself.

 

We took it for a test drive tonight after sorting out the starter motor bolts and found it to have good and bad points:

 

Firstly I quite like the fact that there is no whine in any gear, it make driving a lot more peaceful. However there is a little crunch every time the box is put into second gear. Shaun said it was possibly the synchros. I'm hoping it is something that is related to it being a 0km box meaning it has never been driven and therefore once the synchros are worn in this noise will stop.

 

Also it is quite clunky to change gears and it is very difficult to find first gear. Apart from those two things the box is good and I am enjoying driving it.

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Posted

Steve try some Redline slip oil gearbox additive and also see if pressing the clutch twice before changing up into 2nd gear takes away the problem? Lynton 8)

Posted

Thanks for giving me something to think about Lynton :)

 

I don't think double clutching takes the problem away.

 

Where sells this redline stuff? I don't think supercheap does. What does it do?

 

It doesn't actually grind as it goes into second, just grinds as I am moving the shifter past the location I have circled in red on the picture below. It seems to go into 2nd gear fine its just as the shifter slides past this location I hear a little bit of gnashing. If I am really careful I can make it grind less by not pushing it to the left so hard, however this level of care is impractical for normal driving.

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Posted

Also I should mention that today the car went back to the painters (cut it fine getting the gearbox working didn't I? ;) ) and they are going to buff the new paint, replace the rubbers in the rear quarters and hatch and hopefully polish the rear quarter trim back to a nice stainless steel finish. They reckon I'll have it back tomorrow afternoon - touch wood.

Posted

Stevo if the gearbox is working fine just with that little blip as you change through to second, don't worry about it just drive it. Does not sound like the gearbox is going to blow a poofle valve anytime soon.

Posted

Steve, Nulon is an alternative & maybe even better?

I use it in my S15.

Are the selectors grinding on the inside of the box?

Lynton 8)

Posted

Good to see your actually doing something on your car yourself again.

Or did you supervise Shaun.  ;D

 

I know how small those boxes are, but each time I see one it makes me chuckle, then I go to lift my gearbox and I am not the one laughing anymore.

Posted

Haha I actually tried not to get my hands dirty but that didn't last long ;)

 

Haha speaking of weight, we took Dad's Range Rover box out, now that's a heavy gearbox.

Posted

Steve, Nulon is an alternative & maybe even better?

I use it in my S15.

Are the selectors grinding on the inside of the box?

Lynton 8)

 

I shall look into getting some nulon additive then. Do you know what it actually does to the box? I guess the selector could be grinding? I don't know enough about the internals to infer either way.

Posted

Stevo if the gearbox is working fine just with that little blip as you change through to second, don't worry about it just drive it. Does not sound like the gearbox is going to blow a homole valve anytime soon.

 

I said "Poo-fle Valve" not "homole valve" political correctness has hit auszcar.com too now. What is going on with the world

Posted

You can run a mix of auto trans fluiud and your normal gear oil, BRE used 100% trans in their racers as an added bonus it cleans and stops build up on the syncro rings. I found having thick oil in mine made it hard to shift when cold, my second gear started crunching on down shifts when racing. I now run a 50/50 mix of trans and gear oil and have a happy box again.  :D  Just make sure it's sealed well, trans fluid is horrible for leaks!

Posted

I was recommended to use Nulon or Redline gearbox slip additive oil by Nissan as I complained that I felt the S15 box was a little notchy especially between 1st & 2nd when I first purchased the car, not a clean cut razor sharp change as you would expect!! I have done well over 200,000kms on both clutch and gearbox and still don't have any further issues. I guess it is a game of suck and see, the Nulon will take a few kms to settle in and lubricate the box properly. Lynton  8)

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