Steve's 75 260z 2 seater

[stevo_gj]

HPC on the exhaust manifold is a good thing. That is certainly where you want to keep heat in. But keep in mind that keeping heat in your inlet manifold and rocker cover may not be such a great thing. In those areas you want the heat to dissipate. But you could install an oil cooler to compensate for the rocker cover. Not much you can do to compensate for extra heat in an inlet manifold.

 

I have a spare rocker cover if you want one to use while you get yours coated.

 

Polishing the items yourself will work but the upkeep is a lot more effort. HPC would only need a light rub each time to bring back the shine.

 

Talking to my mech mates I don't think the inlet manifold heat would be an issue, since it mostly is worried about heating up from radiation from headers. The valve cover heating up is an important point, but I'm thinking that if Simon degroot is able to do it then I should be fine. worst case I notice the engine running too hot and I swap over to my l26's valve cover to fix the problem.

 

and powdercoating wouldn't look this good

[Riceburner]

I have jet hot coating on my exhaust it's the same as hpc, all i was told i had to do to clean it was wipe down with windex. It does work, and every 6mnths I give it a polish for extra shine.

[garvice]

Steve,

 

If you want the polished look without the repeated hard work, then do a clear powdercoat after you polish.

 

Or if you don't want much work at all, then sand it back and get a super bright clear anodised finish. You will get a mirror like finish with that.

[stevo_gj]

I'm interested in the clear powdercoating option as that could be applied to lots of parts on the engine that HPC couldn't. Has anyone clear powdercoated their valve cover before?

 

While procrastinating my thesis I did something useful! I now have a fold out workbench in my garage.

 

[MaygZ]

Good use of space.  well done

[stevo_gj]

My L28 is in transit from Perth! 

 

[benny]

bet your excited!!

[sexual_sushi]

Ahhh cool, was gonna send you a msg asking wat was going on with the engine

[Zedman240®]

Should sound nice with that 6 piece orchestra under the bonnet! sweeet

[PZG302]

Well done Steve, when does it fall in the hole, and more importantly, when will you take it out on the track, it would be a shame not to let a motor like that wind out to its full capabilities.

[stevo_gj]

Well I'm planning on putting it on an engine stand when it arrives and getting it cleaned up. So however long it takes to get parts coated, polished etc. Then I'll need to find a free weekend to strip out the old engine so I can get the bay painted before I drop it in. Once that's done I'll drop it to Jim Milner to give the engine a full inspection. Probably aiming for early next year.

 

Can the block be painted while the engine is assembled? Could I just mask up the head? I'd like to paint it the original blue if I could.

[RB30X]

Can the block be painted while the engine is assembled? Could I just mask up the head? I'd like to paint it the original blue if I could.

 

For sure.

 

Just remember those high temp paints wont cure properly until they heat up.

[stevo_gj]

The engine arrived yesterday, so it only took 5 days from Perth, which is pretty good.

 

The L28 was strapped in very securely, as can be seen below.

 

I pulled the tape off the extractors and they look pretty far gone. The HPC coating guy near me said he thought I'd be better off replacing them as the coating will have a pitted look if he used the old ones. I'm most likely going to end up buying a new version of them for $300 off ebay.

 

 

The webers look pretty nice. I'm thinking that I'll take them apart, clean them, get the bodies polished and get the bolts/screws electroplated so they will look as good as new. The air horns on the carbys are a bit battered, does anyone know how much they cost / where to get them locally?

 

 

I bought one of the 450 kg engine stands from supercheap, which I will mount the engine onto this weekend when I can borrow a winch off Greg.

 

I received up a box of useful looking spares and the fuel line:

 

In other news I also have the new tacho recommended by Brad. I'm a bit worried though, by my estimate if I put my speedhut tacho face onto the new gauge I'd be out by a factor of 5-6% (to go 6000 RPM the gauge would say 6300-6400).

 

[stevo_gj]

Just got off the phone to Recarb in Warana Qld (sunny coast).

 

Quoted me the following prices to get the carbys rebuilt/restored to as new quality:

 

Rebuild per carb: $290

Redline linkage full set: $149

New air horns: $180 for 6

 

So looking at around $1200 to get these carbs to show condition. I'm not sure I'll take this option as its pretty expensive, but its a handy reference.

[RB30X]

Those carbs are pretty shiny already steve. Do they need to be rebuilt?

Just get stuck into them with some autosol on the brass sections and they will look awesome.

[stevo_gj]

The flash is making them look shinier than they do in real life. The majority of the bolts and bits have rust or corrosion of some type, they need more than just polishing. I COULD just soda blast the carbs myself and take them apart to give to someone else for plating.

[NZeder]

Re the tach - most modern tachs internally have a pot/adjustment to calibrate to the correct RPM. If the gauge face is very close and you are only 200-300rpm out that might be able to be tuned out however it might mean you are out down low but more accurate up high - which I am sure would be ok

[garvice]

Get  rid of the carbs and get a computer then you can program your tahco to what ever you need. seriously though, not sure if that tacho has a pot because it has 3 dip switches for different engine cylinders. You could always ask shaun nicely to do you up a new face with the rpm points in simillar spots to the vdo one but with the look of the original. Or move your needle a touch so it is only out a little across the range, you need to take the needle off to paint it white anyway

[garvice]

Actually wait a minute, tge tacho I said to get was a 0-8k 270deg one, face should overlay in same spot, that is why I bought it,in the first place.

 

EDIT: Sorry, I see what you are getting at. My first response was typed on a phone and I didn't notice that the original face you have there is not quite 270 deg (looks very close though).

[Zedman240®]

Are the Webers 40 or 45's? Steve Newing sells some nice looking (and functional) velocity stacks for the carbs. From memory around $250 for a set of 6. Anodised blue or I think red and in silver.

[stevo_gj]

Webers are 45's the original weber stacks are only $180 for six so I might as well get them (I'm after silver)

 

Yeah Brad it's verry close but just slightly out on the speedhut face, which one would assume is based on the original face. I'll get an original face out to compare from the broken tacho I am using for the housing.

 

What filters do other people with 45DCOE's use in their S30 engine bay? I'd like to keep the horns if possible but apparently socks kill airflow like nothing else.

[benny]

The ITG tripple carb filter from the U.S would look nice on your car!!

[stevo_gj]

Is there any type of air filter that doesn't hide the ram tubes? The ITG one doesn't quite gel with the highly polished look I'm going for in my engine bay. I'm thinking maybe the K&N? Anyone have any ideas?

 

Edit: So Shaun just pointed out that the ram tubes are for race and show. I think I'm probably not going to replace the horns in a hurry and get K&N filters.

[sexual_sushi]

I like those oval K&N's or these ram flos:

[sexual_sushi]

K&N's on my 45's