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The car has had a hit in the back so the rear valance needs to be replaced (thanks Locky)

The rear chassis member is out of shape concave to flat on the pass side convex on the drivers

I need to know roughly the clearance from the spare tyre well to the chassis rail I'm guessing about 25mm at the moment its zero rail hard up to wheel well

Any ideas, photos greatly appreciated

I have a very big slide hammer that I hope will work

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My 260 2-seat is on jack stands at present to replace perished exhaust hangers so I took a look as the back of my car is undamaged. Reaching up between fuel tank and valance, I can't quite fit my fingers between the rail and the wheel well at tightest point. So even if your rail is out of shape I doubt that it's as far bent inwards as you think. Hopefully someone here can provide you with a definitive measurement.

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Thanks so  about 10mm? (assuming your referencing the old english measuring system rod ,pole, perch and finger)

 

I don't have the expertise or the equipment to get it exact so I'll work to that unless a 240 is different

Thanks again for taking the time

Nick

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Am old school but bi-lingual in metric and imperial. Yes, 10mm or maybe less. I could try using a thin bit of wood as a feeler gauge..(!!). the fuel tank is in the way so hard to access up in there... will look again tomorrow with my lead light.

If your car has taken a nudge in the back then check out the boot floor for any ripples, and how much 'crush' where the taillight panel is pushed against the curve of the spare wheel well, may help you decide what side or where the impact happened, and work back from there.

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The impact was to passenger side to mid car drivers side looks ok , a nice curve

There is a slight crease  about 20mm in on the floor going about half way and angled down by about 5mm

Was thinking of making a template from the new valance, across the line of spot welds and working to that

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Locky I'm sure that would get the best result most of the local workshops not interested, either got rid of jigs or they are 

buried under piles of stuff. They said if car has to go on jig its a write off. Really only interested in replacing parts!

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4 hours ago, PeterAllen said:

You may find it hard to believe but that section can be prone to rust

Yep, just shows how far into the enclosed areas rust can penetrate.

Looking at this video I will be looking to do further rust prevention spray treatment on the internal chassis areas https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cZAnhTLeqvE

 

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On 5/2/2021 at 11:59 PM, C.A.F. said:

You need to put it on a chassis bench to pull it straight, Nick.

My car HS30 00150 has had a light nudge in the butt and it's pushed this section against the spare tyre tub also.

I haven't been able to progress things much for this reason. I need @C.A.F. help to pull it straight again.

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6 hours ago, AndBir said:

Yep, just shows how far into the enclosed areas rust can penetrate

When they get hit in the rear the seam sealer between that box section and the rear valance becomes separated, then add in the rear slam panel in the hatch is a rust trap, it's no wonder they rust in that spot..

That's how it went on my Gold car #150.

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On 5/4/2021 at 2:20 PM, NickF said:

The damage on yours looks similar to mine how did you go about correcting 

Like everywhere else, cut it out and replaced.

I became quite a fan of 'Ferguson's Knock-Out'. Composition looked good, was easy to apply in channels, etc. and was weld through.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by PeterAllen
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Managed to pull the rail out now have a tight 9mm clearance.

Used pieces of 75mm x3mm box section with one side cut out a piece of chain welded to each piece and a Range Rover 

Chain o RRS clamped box section to Datsun pushed Datsun forward and slowly pulled out, used small movements as chassis rail pulled out floor 

moved out and up so almost flat.

If someone could post a picture looking down from the slam panel to the valance (without rear panel trim) that would be really helpful

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Quote

Looking at this video I will be looking to do further rust prevention spray treatment on the internal chassis areas https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cZAnhTLeqvE

Jeez, surely that shell is way too far gone to go to all that trouble... every last section of metal is rust pitted.

And is the guy just lining it all up again by eye? I don't see any reference profiles anywhere. :( 

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