Nizm0zed's coupe

[nizm0zed]

How did you tackle removing the fusible links?

 

 

i used side cutters...

 

 

 

but seriously, i just removed all the associated wiring to do with the shunt and ammeter, and rewired a new peice of wire from the alternator, into the fusebox.

in my particular setup, it was easier to go to the fusebox then the batt +

but ultimately the end goal was the same.

 

yea, i suppose that maybe it should have a fuse in it, but i have other cars that i used as a guide that dont have a fuse in them.

If i find that there is a need for it, i still have the ability to seperate the wire, and place a fuse inline.

the only thing to consider is that any fuse placed inline needs a rating high enough to match the maximum output of the alternator.

[JP]

Right, I noticed the relay block you used accepts Jcase fuses which are available in high current fusible links if you choose to re-fuse them.

I was looking at something similar but in the end just connected them directly as I mentioned.

 

Are you leaving the fusebox alone in the kick panel?

I plan on rewiring mine with some more modern mini-fuses at the same time.

I have been looking for ages to find a good fusebox to use that might fit. I have a couple of the tiny fuse blocks used in the rear of the VE commodore, but they dont qute have enough slots.

[nizm0zed]

yea, i felt it was ultimately easier to keep the origional fuse block, and retain the factory systems on that.

makes for easy diagnosis.

 

all the new systems, the EFI and such are contained in the new fusebox.

 

if down the track, i do it again, i will remove the wiring completely and use a painless kit with integrated fuse box.

[nizm0zed]

well, got a little bit done, seeing as i spent most of my long weekend sick as a dog.

 

did a small bit of wiring, and fitted the dizzy up, inc cap.

i discovered in the process that the throttle body actually fouls on the cap. DOH!

so, i have rotated the throttle body around so the cable pulley is on the other side.

I'll have to re-think my throttle cable idea, but it shouldnt be hard.

12042009273 by Alan Hartcher, on Flickr

12042009274 by Alan Hartcher, on Flickr

 

the coil is also now mounted, i just need to wire it up.

12042009275 by Alan Hartcher, on Flickr

 

and the top intercooler pipe and BOV is done.

12042009269 by Alan Hartcher, on Flickr

12042009270 by Alan Hartcher, on Flickr

 

i think for a short while, i need to stop building stuff, and start polishing things.

otherwise im going to have to pull it all apart again and polish it, right when i want to drive it.

[Aaron Neubauer]

i think for a short while, i need to stop building stuff, and start polishing things.

otherwise im going to have to pull it all apart again and polish it, right when i want to drive it.

 

That might be a good idea!  Looking tops so far!  How many aitch pees where you hoping for as an end result?

[nizm0zed]

nfi.

 

 

i am putting a rough estimate (pulled completely from nowhere) at 220-250rwkw at 15psi

[Zedman240®]

Top radiator hose looks like a tight fit above the IC piping... hope the pic is deceiving! Nice build though....youtube vid when running by the way!

[zzzzed]

yours and my car are going to loory similar when finished

I am going red wrinkle paint on my rocker cover though

[RB30X]

Just wondering what ECU is going to drive this intake/injector set-up. I can see you running into difficulties due to the lack of trumpets inside the plenum as well as the fixed diameter all the way from #1 cylinder to #6. If you look at a lot of factory and expensive after market plenums, they taper off towards #6 due to the lesser volume and velocity of air.

 

It does look great however and I'm sure the costs you saved by making your own will far outweigh the small power loss you may experience compaired to a pro job.

 

I'll be watching this thread eagerly.

[nizm0zed]

ECU is a Megasquirt, as mentioned earlier in the thread.

 

as also mentioned earlier in the thread, this is a budget (well, sort of) build.

If i was going to spend any decent money on the engine, i would have started with something else, like a RB25/30 or 1JZ or v8

 

as it stands, once this motor pops, i'll do an engine swap anyway.

 

I am very aware that i am sacraficing some power with the design, but i also want it to look good.

im not trying to build the fastest car around.

Oh, im also thinking that boost will do a very good job of solving the 'lack of air' at the end runners

 

yea, the pipe is VERY close to the rad outlet.

at the moment, the hose will sit against the pipe.

i have two solutions to the problem.

raise the rad slightly, or, get a custom alloy one made, with the outlet high enough to clear.

[nizm0zed]

did more on the manifold, i have mostly finished the fuel rail.

Just need to thread some of the holes, and mount my rail pressure guage.

Oh, and polish more stuff

 

21042009277 by Alan Hartcher, on Flickr

 

21042009278 by Alan Hartcher, on Flickr

 

its going to look shit hot, but im sure im going to regret all this polished alloy :'(

[nuclear_z]

nfi.

 

 

i am putting a rough estimate (pulled completely from nowhere) at 220-250rwkw at 15psi

 

My L28ET puts out 200rwhp on 8psi... But, my engine is a little tired and I am not sure the condition of the ignition system... This beautiful puppy will definately punch some numbers if tuned properly... I reckon an easy 250rwhp on 8-10psi and maybe 300rwhp on 15psi?

[Aaron Neubauer]

its going to look shit hot, but im sure im going to regret all this polished alloy :'(

 

Lol!  It'll be worth it in the end though.

 

Any news on the megasquirt??

[nizm0zed]

nothign on the MS yet.

Its on hold till i find a suitable grommet for the EFI loom, then i can do the plugs, and connect it all.

 

Till then, there are other things that need doing.

 

Today i did some polishing.

 

now my fingers hurt.

 

26042009285 by Alan Hartcher, on Flickr

 

26042009286 by Alan Hartcher, on Flickr

 

and some detailed shots of how the rail is held down.

25042009283 by Alan Hartcher, on Flickr

25042009284 by Alan Hartcher, on Flickr

[waxhead]

Looks good

Your workmanship is top knotch

Im looking to make my own intake manifold as well , will be interested to see how it turns out

[nizm0zed]

actually the photo's hide a fair bit 

 

my skills is something i have developed over several years of just being a hands on person.

But this is still the first complete manifold i have ever built.

its also the first time i have ever worked primarily with alloy.

[nizm0zed]

did a bit more work over the last dew days.

i finished welding up the intercooler, i had to cut the outlets off the end tanks, and weld on the 90 degree bends.

they extend all the way through the radiator panel, and the silicone hose mounts onto it.

 

29052009296 by Alan Hartcher, on Flickr

 

29052009297 by Alan Hartcher, on Flickr

 

I have also been working on some HT lead mounting brackets.

they have taken a bit of time, as they have to be hand made from scratch.

[29052009295 by Alan Hartcher, on Flickr

 

29052009298 by Alan Hartcher, on Flickr

 

once i finish the brackets i can work out the required length of the leads and get some pretty blue ones.

[tbscobraZ]

Incredible work jealously. A turbo verison of what i hope to do with mine. Love the blue theme and craftmanship is nuts. Can't wait to see it finished.

[RBZ 260]

very nice work. looking very good. i so need to start on new project LOL... getting bored working on the bmw. soon soon.

 

anyway just a thing i noticed but prob bit too late now.

 

ive noticed,the cooler pipe runing infront of the radiator than to throtle body.

 

what will happen is the hot air from turbo gets cooled by the cooler than heats up again infront of the radiator before going into the engine. kinda spoils the hard work the cooler had to do in first place.

 

try and see if u can make the hot pipe route infornt of the radiator (as its hot anyway)  and the cool pipe to be the short one to the throttle body.  it will help with bit more performance expecialy in warmer days when car is idling or driving slow. less heat sinks into the shorter pipe.

 

just see if u can re-route it easily. my guess be it wouldnt but u have a better view looking at it from your side.

 

just a small tip that prob would have been more usefull earlier.

 

 

[S30Mike]

"I opened the thread and i JIZZED IN MY PANTS! "

 

haha i want that motor..

[Mr240z]

"I opened the thread and i JIZZED IN MY PANTS! "

 

haha i want that motor..

 

First time Mike......Just wait till you find out about the opposite sex...Its gets better.

[nuclear_z]

very nice work. looking very good. i so need to start on new project LOL... getting bored working on the bmw. soon soon.

 

anyway just a thing i noticed but prob bit too late now.

 

ive noticed,the cooler pipe runing infront of the radiator than to throtle body.

 

what will happen is the hot air from turbo gets cooled by the cooler than heats up again infront of the radiator before going into the engine. kinda spoils the hard work the cooler had to do in first place.

 

try and see if u can make the hot pipe route infornt of the radiator (as its hot anyway)  and the cool pipe to be the short one to the throttle body.  it will help with bit more performance expecialy in warmer days when car is idling or driving slow. less heat sinks into the shorter pipe.

 

just see if u can re-route it easily. my guess be it wouldnt but u have a better view looking at it from your side.

 

just a small tip that prob would have been more usefull earlier.

 

 

 

I was looking at doing this when I redid my pipe work. To do it as you say, would be better, but its a lot harder to do, and when the car is moving doesnt make that big of an impact. I can quite comfortably touch my inlet pipe out of the cooler that is directly behind my radiator.

[RBZ 260]

u be suprised. one of the guys had temp guage on both inlet and outlet and made a bit of difference.

 

its not easy but it can be done. my rb has the intake and turbo on the same side as on that L series. pipe had to go infront of radiator.

 

to make it cool again after sitting on the traqffic lights it will take few minutes of 60km and above to bring it down.

 

10deg C  increase for an engine intake temp is a fair bit.

 

though this gets even worse during summer as the air is warm hot and intercooler doesnt work as well. thats when water spray helps.

 

been working on turbo cars since 1994. Relatives and friends cars

I had turbo cars since 1998 tried everything and experimented with lot of different aspects.

 

small things do make a difference. just stick a thermocopler in few spots and u be amased.

 

also u be suprised what a small leak does in the intercooler piping and than try to find it.

 

but thats for next installment. 

 

 

 

 

[Aaron Neubauer]

also u be suprised what a small leak does in the intercooler piping and than try to find it.

 

We used to smear a thin film (only a bee's dick thick) of clean oil on the inside diameter of the silicon piping under the clamp.  Not only does it help seal the piping, it also makes leak diagnosis easy as you can see where the oil has been pushed aside from the escaping air.

 

I want to see the results of the intake plenum modifications.

[nizm0zed]

"I opened the thread and i JIZZED IN MY PANTS! "

haha i want that motor..

 

thanks  

 

yes, about the inlet pipe.

Initially it was going to be out of the turbo, and along the underside of the rad, then through the intercooler, and back in the passenger side to the throttle body.

Once i mounted the throttle body, i discovered that there was no way to reduce down in diameter AND make a 45 degree turn within the limited space provided.

It also wasnt really feasible to run 3.5 inch piping up and into the cooler, as there is no room for silicone bends or reducers next to the cooler.

yea, i know im going to get a bit more heatsoak.

Im trying to counter that by polishing the pipe to reflect any heat.

when i do the alloy raditator i will also try to incorporate a shroud or shield to help isolate any airflow from the radiator onto the pipe.

It would be similar to the standard finger guard that comes off the back side of the top radiator tank.

realisically though, i dont have much of an issue with toning down the power output if a little heatsoak is present.

as i have said before, if i was going to go real silly with this, i would have started with a different motor.

 

well, as for an update, i have been stupidly busy at work, pulled a 12 hour day yesterday

I have my front brakes ready to go, just havent had a chance to put them together.

i will try and get into it on sunday though, im itching to get it together.

hopefully i'll have a real update on sunday night.