JP

Sold today. A real tear jerker to see her go after so long, so many hours and so many plans. Thanks for all the support here.

Thanks guys. If I had some sort of permanent storage I would definitely not be selling and just wait until life slowed down a little. I've had a few people look and a few offers, but I have to say in my experience there is no way you could collect all these parts (if you could find them!) without the car for this price. Likewise you'd be hard pressed to find a 2 seater in this condition for any price, dead straight, perfect original floors not to mention the body work performed with frame rail replacement/extension, seam welding etc

I just had a look in my garage on the weekend and this is still there. I've been working fly in fly out this year and with a potential move overseas coming up, I really have no time to spend on her. Open to serious offers.

Depends on your background I would say. I am an automotive electrical engineer so for me I would 100% buy this car in the state it is in because it is exactly where my skills and enjoyment come into play and can still be tailored to the owners taste. The reengineered driveline was a huge expense to me because I wanted it done perfect and it was not something I have skill in yet. It took a huge amount of time and expense and if I had started with this base it would have been finished by now. If you were a mechanic, or fitter & turner or some other sort of mechanically minded person your enjoyment may be the opposite to mine and you prefer the bodywork/fabrication/mechanical phase more and would like to start form scratch yourself. When I bought this car I looked at dozens of cars which had the rust cut out just to use as a donor base, basically to avoid the expense and tediousness of doing it myself. This would have been perfect. There were a few around but on inspection none were great and none had the bodywork documented in any way.

I found an in situation photo here if that helps identification: http://www.viczcar.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=846&fullsize=1

I'm starting to think it is a starter relay, although im not sure where the power connection is. The black/yellow wire comes from the ignition switch starter position, the green/yellow goes to the dash with a branch wire heading to roughly where the starter once was with a female bullet terminal on it. Does anyone with a late 260z have a green/yellow starter solenoid trigger wire?

Thanks for the help so far! Looks like a lot of it is for the AC. If anyone knows what this guy is here in my picture next to the voltage reg it would be great. I can only guess that the 7 pin round plug connects to it even though half the wires are missing and the colours dont match. The real fun part is the starter wire from the ignition switch is the black/yellow that runs to the plug and never comes out again so I'm stumped as to how the old motor used to start. Probably a very obvious answer out there...

Great, Thanks for that. I spent yesterday tracing the wires through the harness and it didnt make sense with 4 links, but it makes much better sense with 3! I shouldnt have thrown them away so quickly. Another question if you dont mind, under the fusible link bracket I have the voltage regulator and another relay which I dont know what its used for. It has a round plug and the black/yellow wire from the ignition switch runs directly to it. Do you have that too? Im guessing an ignition/starter relay. I also have a 4 pin round plug in the area which I think I have traced to the old A/C systems. Do you have this also? I think its connected to those vacuum switches on the left of your photos. Thanks again

Perhaps if someone with a '77 or a non EFI car with 2 fusible link blocks could be kind enough to take a photo of them, especially if the labels havent rotted away it would be a great start.

If it helps according to the early 260Z wiring diagram the links go to: Battery -> (80A Fusible Link) -> Volt. Reg. / Shunt / Alt / Acc Relay / Fuse Block / Comb Switch -> (40A Fusible Link) -> IGN Switch According to a 280Z the links go to: Battery -> (50A Fusible Link) -> EFI Relay / IGN Relay Battery -> (50A Fusible Link) -> IGN Switch Battery -> (50A Fusible Link) -> Comb Switch Battery -> (80A Fusible Link) -> Volt. Reg. / Alt / IGN Relay / Fuse Block Unfortunately my car is in pieces which makes it difference to verify, but I was unaware that any of the carb 260Z's would have had an ignition relay which is that only way this makes sense to me?

Keen to get back onto the Z project after taking a while off and have been combing through wiring diagrams. So the only wiring diagram in existence I can find for the RHD 260Z has a single pair of fusible links, where as I have a '77 260Z which has two pairs. Seeing as there is no EFI relays, does anybody know what the additional links fuse?

Did this sell? If not I'm interested.

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Hi Guys, After a lot of consideration and a heavy heart I have decided I have to sell my project car. A lot of you have seen the progress of this over the years, but unfortunately lately progress has stalled due to other work, travel and home commitments. Most of you know what you are looking at so I don't need to plug the car too much here, but here is a copy and paste of the ebay spiel: For sale is a 1977 Datsun 260Z 2 seater. This has been my project car for a few years and has been a slow, no expense spared project to build my idea of the ideal Z car. Being a '77 car, it used the stiffer updated body (US 280Z) which I chose as the best base for the extra power planned. The car was bought complete and driven for a short time, it was the straightest Z car I had seen (and I have owned several). All hanging panels, lights and trim come with the vehicle (minus OEM seats). Basically this car would suit someone considering a RB powered Z project or a lightweight RWD project car. All the hard work and more importantly expense regarding fabrication is complete, however there is enough left to personalise the car to you tastes. Fabrication and repair is often the most daunting part of these projects and the area where big budget blowouts occur, in this case it has already been done. At last estimate the total spend on this project including the car purchase price, body work, fabrication and parts was between $35k-$40k. Hard to believe, but it often happens I now learnt the hard way! I realise this is a large amount and some cars are built for less in backyards, however you have to consider that no expense spared on structural and safety items as this car was built to be legitimately engineered and 100% road legal as well as confidently safe for its driver and passengers. Body The body while very straight, was stripped and sandblasted on a rotisserie. All rust spots were cut and with new metal panels fabricated and welded in. The frame rails were replaced from the rear and extended/tied into the rear subframe for extra chassis strength. The body was then seam welded for additional strength and primered. The underbody has been sound deadened while the cabin and engine bay were painted in Porsche Seal Grey. Engine Currently installed is a Series 2 RB25DET from an R33 Skyline halfcut reported to have 90,000kms. Used is professionally fabricated engine mounts and a genuine brand new Nissan 200ZR Oil Sump to fit the Z cross member configuration. Fuel Injection Bosch 040 external fuel pump Surge tank Lift pump Braided lines Drivetrain RB25DET gearbox - Much thought, planning and expense went into the professionally fabricated gearbox mount which is often a big hurdle on using this ideal strong gearbox, many opt for the weaker RB20DET gearbox to fit the standard mount. Customised tail shaft R200 3.9:1 Clutch LSD rebuilt by Stan Holmes Customised 300ZX CV shafts All fabrication was performed by Meridian Motorsport. Brakes/Suspension Front 5 stud slotted and vented Brembo rotors (Mercedes) using PBR calipers (VT Commodore) Rear 5 stud XF falcon disc brakes/handbrake Coilover suspension on shortened struts Redrilled crossmember to reduce bump steer Brakes & suspension were purchased and assembled by Speed Technology. All bushes have been replaced with a mix of Nissan genuine rubber and Noltec urethane as per expert advice. Extras All underbody components sandblasted and painted. Mitsubishi EvoVI front mount intercooler Mitsubishi EvoIII Recaro seats/Rails Rear mounted gel cell battery in battery box and heavy gauge battery wiring Reskinned Dash MSA complete rubbers kit New genuine nissan bonnet in box Whats left to finish? Wiring has been started but needs to be completed. Coolant piping needs to be connected. Exhaust and intercooler piping required. Orginal interior is all present however I have always planned to retrim the car. Exterior paint work required. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/140743280570?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649#ht_1243wt_1185 Ideally I would like to recoup approaching half of what I spent if possible ( the hours are lost forever!), however will consider all serious offers. I hope most of you can understand and respect that. Looking at $15,000. Thanks guys

For car stuff, the Toyota Museum is Nagoya (Aichi) was very good, it follows automotive history back to the start of the century and has oddities such as coal powered production cars used during the war oil shortage etc. They also had a 2000GT and 432R when I was there. I woudlnt waste too much time on cars though as there is so much to see and do (and eat and drink).

Just a thought: if it is a foam cell tape wont it trap moisture?

The tariffs have actually been slashed which in my opinion is a bad thing. It's a good thing if you want to support the German/Thai/Japanese/Korean economy but not so good if you like to keep Australians employed. If you do a quick search at the bureau of statistics the employment in the automotive sector is very large, larger than the mining sector we hear whinging so much recently. Somewhere like 60,000 Australians from memory. The argument is that import tariffs reduce competitiveness, but how can manufacturing in Australia be comptetitive if you and I are not willing to work for $3 a day like mentioned in this thread. At the end of the day hobbyists like ourselves can restore our Japanese cars or whatever to no harm but there is no gain to be had in trashing the local industry to the mainstream Joe Smith and fleet. Having no local industry will drive ALL car prices up not to mention parts. In the new car market you simply cannot get the features at the pricepoint local cars offer and just because you own an import doesnt make local cars crap, just like if you have an SS ute it doesnt make Japanese cars plastic crap. However due to the cultural cringe your neighbour with his iPad, soy latte and 3 series will think he is of higher social standing even though he is just driving a base model german housewife shopping car. Marketing and the image of prestige is a funny thing. So back on topic, I will use Japan as an argument to support my initial idea. We all have heard of Japaense Shaken or scheduled roadworthy tests. They are an excellent idea from the Japanese government to boost employment and productivity in the auto sector by making old cars expensive and there for unattractive to own/maintain. Dress it up as a safety or environmental act and there you go, strongest auto manufacturing in the world by making used cars worthless.

Volume. If youre talking about new cars then with any mass production volume brings down cost. Australia struggles to sell 1 million new cars a year. China do it per month. Combine this with the large brand mix we have here further reducing volume per maker, each maker has to charge a premium per car to recover costs in geting it here (or building it). To further reduce new car sales are the soft roadworthy and emissions laws meaning old cars stay on the road longer careating a large used car market to compete with new cars.. If youre talking used cars (which you are), then there would be spill on effect from the price of new cars, making it only possibly for many to afford used cars thus propping up the used car market. Combined with the above mentioned soft roadworthy rules, used cars a a viable option and therefore worth more.

What's the price now less throttle body?

I'm a little interested but have a bad habit of hoarding parts before I need them. I'll offer $1000 inc postage for the time being. Thanks

Sorry for the late response, when I was in Japan the cars I looked at were in the $35,000-$50,000 bracket and I couldn't believe the poor paintwork, obvious filler and appearance of rust bubbles. They look at the cars differently there in my opinion, more of a cult following rather than a classic. As such they are highly sort after, well modified yet not lovingly restored. Recently i have heard of exceptions starting but obviously you will pay for it. Owning a car is an expensive exercise in Japan and people don't have the space to hoard old cars, which will always make collectible cars more expensive there.

I have checked out several in Japan, just be wary that your definition of restored might differ to their's.

I'd consider doing a trade if I had my time again, but there is no way I am giving up my job to do a prerequisite apprenticeship now. Considering all manufacturing industry in Australia is declining, services are the where the job security will be in my opinion.

Haha I used to live in Toyota city...you wont want to be spending too much time there!