nizm0zed Posted April 6, 2010 Author Posted April 6, 2010 thorough is good, if you dont ask, you wont know.... the rotor hasnt needed to be machined at all, so long as the caliper is spaced at the same radius as factory (on the skyline) it'll all align properly. the two inner holes look closer, but they arent. If you look at the mounting holes on the stub axle, they are in a rectangular pattern, with the shorter sides of the rectangle on the vertical axis. they are drilled to suit the mounting position. On the unmodified caliper bracket the skyline mounting holes are a trapezoidal shape, with the larger spacing at the top horizontal axis. therefore the bracket wont bolt on direclty. will it be strong enough? dunno, we'll find out. I figure that it should be, there is only 2 bolts holding the caliper to the bracket. adding to that, the rears dont do much in the grand scheme of things anyway, maybe 20-25% of the braking load. Also, if you look closely at the 2nd and 3rd pics, you can see that the caliper bracket folds over the stub axle mounting face. where i have trimmed off the excess, it sits flush over the edge. the bracket cant physically rotate any further round, so some of the torsional load will be transferred through the bracket into the stub axle housing. From my perspective on the job, it didnt appear possible to do the bracket any other way if i wanted to be able to assemble it without removing the stub axle, from what im told its a royal pain of a job, up there with the spindle pins. i guess i could have cut the bracket to leave 3 mounting holes, but then i would have issues with where it folds over, and have to remove half of it anyway. Why did i elongate the caliper mount hole? because i stuffed up and drilled the bracket mount holes slightly too close, causing the caliper to sit out too far (also explains the mounting holes looking too close to the centre) This bracket pictured was the first one i did. the second one was a lot better. ideally you dont want to elongate the holes at all, its unprofessional. the caliper shouldnt move around, everything is tightened down pretty hard. how do the pads sit? right on the edge. Ideally the pads should sit in from the edge of the rotor about 1mm or so, and they probably would have if i had planned and measured everything, but thats not how i roll (im a typical bloke builder, cut then measure ) any more questions, just hit me up, happy to answer. Quote
RB30X Posted April 6, 2010 Posted April 6, 2010 Thanks for those answers. I'll look foward to some pics with the wheels on. I'm currently sussing out another potential 240Z (number 2) and it has Z31 fronts and rears so I'll have to see how easy they went on. Cheers Quote
tbscobraZ Posted April 13, 2010 Posted April 13, 2010 You're engine bay is soo nice and ur motor sounds really deep and loud going to be sweet when its tuned. Quote
nizm0zed Posted February 24, 2011 Author Posted February 24, 2011 jeez, last update was in april last year.... So i've been busy with life, and its taken me away from the car for a bit. however, i have had the last month off, and have managed to get some time into the car. I have finished the rear garnish and tail lights, hidden the fuel filler, painted up and assembled the front end completely, re-skinned the drivers door (im sanding and painting it now) and begun general re-assembly of the car. Im going to do the interior once its running and driveable, its not a big priority at the moment. So, pictures? This is the new filler pipe fabbed up to fit behind the light. it feeds down into the tanks stock filler location. there is a metal plate blocking off the rest of the tail light, sealing the filler assembly from the cabin, then the light assembly fits over the top of it, hinging out on a bracket. The LED lights are urethaned to the backside of the chrome surroud. Woooo, LED tail lights.... I used store bought LED lights (LED Autolamps brand, from Autobarn) and mounted them inside the standard lenses. I then filled them with Epoxy resin to locate the LED's It has added a litte weight to it, but they wont break anytime soon, and they are impervious to dust or water. The rear garnish all finished and assembled. I think it looks quite good. I still have my BRE rear lip, that'll go on last, painted gloss black. Quote
benny Posted February 24, 2011 Posted February 24, 2011 awesome job with the taillights.... great fabrication!! Quote
FLEXZED Posted February 24, 2011 Posted February 24, 2011 awesome job with the taillights.... great fabrication!! +1 what have you done with the original filler flap are you planning on shaving the rear as well??? Loui Quote
nizm0zed Posted February 24, 2011 Author Posted February 24, 2011 I welded the flap to the body and smoothed it over. Im going to have the bumpers fitted, so no, not smoothing the rear. At one point i was going to do it, but its a HUGE job if you are doing it properly. (im too lazy) I also thought the car may look a little unbalanced with a front bumper and no rear bumper. Quote
GV260 Posted February 25, 2011 Posted February 25, 2011 My old Zed had the smoothed rear end but with a front bumper and it looked the goods as per attached side on and rear photo! Quote
Bigfella Posted February 25, 2011 Posted February 25, 2011 My old Zed had the smoothed rear end but with a front bumper and it looked the goods as per attached side on and rear photo! Hey quick thread hijack. I want to do the shaved ass on my 2+2. I notice the exhaust looks like it comes out of one off the original cut outs of the shell. Is that correct and did it need to be made any bigger. Thanks Matt Quote
Stivva Posted February 27, 2011 Posted February 27, 2011 The fuel filler looks fantastic! Great work on that and the tail lights. Quote
Moderators Zedman240® Posted February 27, 2011 Moderators Posted February 27, 2011 Not sure if you have thought of it already, but with LED indicators, with less load on the flasher, they will flash twice as fast as ADR's specify. You will need a flasher can for LED lamps.. Got one here somewhere if you have trouble finding one. I was going to do the same thing but only with the brake lights; indicators I was going to leave with the globes as they last for years anyway. Great work though! Quote
nizm0zed Posted February 27, 2011 Author Posted February 27, 2011 yep i know. fyi, you can also get load resistors to 'trick' the standard can into thinking that it has normal bulbs, but imo, it defeats the purpose of fitting LED's Narva do a standard 3 pin replacement flasher for about $40 I currently have a wiring issue at the moment, the indicators dont work at all. I know roughly where the prob is though, so its an easy fix. I'll be doing the front corners in LED's too, and i have some mirrors with LED's in the edge. The only incandescent globes left will be the reverse lights and maybe the interior light. Quote
sco_aus Posted February 27, 2011 Posted February 27, 2011 I noticed when one of my indicator bulbs wasnt working, it actually doesn't flash much faster (260Z with 3x indicators), so replacing one of them with LEDs won't make it too bad. Quote
GV260 Posted February 28, 2011 Posted February 28, 2011 Hey quick thread hijack. I want to do the shaved ass on my 2+2. I notice the exhaust looks like it comes out of one off the original cut outs of the shell. Is that correct and did it need to be made any bigger. Thanks Matt Yes, exhaust came out of original outlet and it was not made bigger Quote
Bigfella Posted February 28, 2011 Posted February 28, 2011 Yes, exhaust came out of original outlet and it was not made bigger Thanks Quote
nizm0zed Posted July 8, 2011 Author Posted July 8, 2011 Jeebus, no updates since February. well, change of job and life do tend to get in the way of things. Well, i finally pulled my finger out ( a couple of months ago...) and rebuilt my front struts, using the HSD coil over set i got from Otomoto I didnt section the strut bodies down because i found i had oil shocks in there allready. There is enough room that i can do that later once i get some shorter inserts anyway. While i was in there though, i did modify the shock piston rod and moved the stopper higher up the shaft. End result is less suspension extension travel, so the coil overs wont come loose over bumps. I cleaned it all up, refilled with shock oil and re-assembled it. If it breaks, meh, i was allways intending on replacing them, so no biggie. But i figured i should try and use what i have first. Coilovers by Alan Hartcher, on Flickr Lowered 2 by Alan Hartcher, on Flickr over the last few days, when not minus bazillion degrees in my shed, i have been wet sanding the clearcoat i layed down and buffing with a hand held buffer. so far, its coming up quite nicely. The pictures do hide a fair bit, but this is no showcar. Zed by Alan Hartcher, on Flickr buffing 2 by Alan Hartcher, on Flickr Buffing 1 by Alan Hartcher, on Flickr hawtness!!! by Alan Hartcher, on Flickr As a small side project, to ward off some of the insane cold, i built a fireplace for my shed. It was an old LPG tank, welded on a couple of legs, carved it up with the plasma cutter and added a chimney. works quite nicely Quote
chris240 Posted July 8, 2011 Posted July 8, 2011 welcome back ! where are you living these days ? Quote
sco_aus Posted July 8, 2011 Posted July 8, 2011 Well done mate. For my coilovers we put in a keeper spring that pushes the spring up when unloaded, but is flat when loaded up. The fire is kick ass too. Quote
Moderators Zedman240® Posted July 8, 2011 Moderators Posted July 8, 2011 Paint job craps all over my zed!! I don't even go into my garage much anymore in this cold.. can't wait for summer especially now! Quote
nizm0zed Posted July 9, 2011 Author Posted July 9, 2011 Thanks heaps fellaz!! Seriously though, the photos hide a LOT! Its a slow process sanding out the orange peel left by my very amateur spray job. There will be some close up evidence of my amateur skills, hopefully some of it will be hidden by the final wax coat it'll get. I made a few 'big' mistakes putting the clear down. SirpentZ (john) recommended that i sand the clear off and drop a new coat of colour and clear but i just cant bring myself to do it, even though i know its really good advice. I'll be taking note of them for the next paint job. I have my wedding (finally) coming up in November next year, and 'she' has given me permission, support and the budget within the wedding fund to have my car ready for it, so its full speed ahead until she realizes the cost and changes her mind I fully intend on re-painting it next rebuild, probably paying a workshop to do it all. good thing she doesn't read this... I hope to at least have the outside looking good, tinted windows and engineering done (so its legally driveable) ready for the big day, Its only 7-8 years in the running since i proposed. If time permits, i'll begin on the interior, but no promises.... *oh, side note, once its up and running, and displaying at shows, If you see it in the flesh, feel more that welcome to ask me to point out the flaws, I would be happy to have all you awesome people learn from my mistakes, it makes for a better outcome for all of us, and thats what we are all here for, Amongst other things... Quote
Moderators Zedman240® Posted July 10, 2011 Moderators Posted July 10, 2011 The only flaw people will be noticing when its at car shows is the fact they don't own one! Don't stress over the issues in the body; I'm sure every zed owner can see one hundred for every one the public see. Just enjoy the drive. Quote
Enzo Posted July 10, 2011 Posted July 10, 2011 G'Day, I like what you are doing to the car. Just curious about the fuel filler. It looks pretty straight, and I was wondering if there is going to be enough angle to insert the curved fuel hose without fuel flowing back out the opening. Keep up the good work David. Quote
Patch Posted July 10, 2011 Posted July 10, 2011 I painted a Mk 3 Zephyr that colour 25 years ago, it showed up every imperfection in the body and looked shocking in the sun as even the sanding marks showed up, I did another coat over top with sliver glitter in the paint with a glass marble, helps stir the paint, just give it a shake to keep the glitter moving, I then done the same with clear and glitter , and then just clear on top. Changes a car from just looking basic paint job to one that looked out standing, the glitter up sets the light and all the imperfections went away, any where I went people would comment on the paint job as you could see the depth in the paint with the different layers, no one noticed any imperfections in it after that. Quote
nizm0zed Posted July 10, 2011 Author Posted July 10, 2011 Enzo, yea it should be fine once the filler is in there. My basic measurements seem to allow it to all fit and work. The pipe and inlet into the tank is pretty big, i shoudn't have any backwash issues until its almost full anyway. I used an entire fuel neck assembly, cap and restrictor from a later model car. I may end up having to fill slowly and carefully though. Time will tell... Patch, i was thinking perhaps getting a shop to do a clear/pearl of some description over it once its finished, that'd give it a unique look and hide a bit too, but that really does have to wait till i have sorted all of the body out, Bumpers, front and rear lip ect ect. we'll see how it turns out, it may end up looking good enough. Quote
peter t Posted July 11, 2011 Posted July 11, 2011 Don't worry mate as mine is a 10 foot paint job as Rev would would say and one day like you I will get a good job done. Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.