Nizm0zed's coupe

[nizm0zed]

yay, update time!!!

 

The custom made lead holders are all done now, and i have got new leads for it.

The turbo inlet and outlet pipes are now done and polished.

P2210003 by Alan Hartcher, on Flickr

P2210005 by Alan Hartcher, on Flickr

P2210006 by Alan Hartcher, on Flickr

P2210004 by Alan Hartcher, on Flickr

 

I painted my intercooler, and mounted it. Its now done.

P2210007 by Alan Hartcher, on Flickr

 

I need to get an alloy radiator, do the exhaust off the turbo, and make an airbox.

I have to make a catch can too, but that'll be part of the airbox wall.

there is two pipes running over the injector rail that will go to the catch can, they are connected to the block vent and the rocker cover.

Im hoping i can get away with venting my catch can into my airbox

If not, a small mod into the pipe just before the filter should suffice.

After that its almost ready to turn the key!!!

 

then on with all the other bits :roll:

 

I got some of ben's HSD coilovers, so i'll have to pull the front struts out and do them up.

Should be pretty awesome once its done...

[Zedman240®]

That engine/bay is looking friggin' spectacular! How do you find the time? You will have to post a youtube video you know..

[chris240]

Ive often thought about doing the same thing with my leads...very neat.

[nizm0zed]

How do you find the time?

 

my wife is very patient....

 

It has taken quite a long time of working on evenings and weekends, and it is far from over.

[Aaron Neubauer]

I love that intercooler paint scheme!!

[Scando]

Yeah, love the intercooler.  Recently there was an article in Auto Action a guy that ran Celicas at Bathurst through the late 70's, early 80's.  He painted the rising sun flag on the roof cause he though it was the Japanese national flag and apparently the big wigs at Toyota Japan were quite upset about it!

[Brabham]

I am now going to paint everything on my zed like that intercooler

[nizm0zed]

Bodywork, lots and lots of bodywork....

29052009292 by Alan Hartcher, on Flickr

31052009300 by Alan Hartcher, on Flickr

31052009303 by Alan Hartcher, on Flickr

 

All the bog on the rear corner was shaped and smoothed.

31052009305 by Alan Hartcher, on Flickr

11112009384 by Alan Hartcher, on Flickr

 

Fuel filler all welded up and smoothed off.

11112009386 by Alan Hartcher, on Flickr

 

All primed up.

17112009390 by Alan Hartcher, on Flickr

17112009391 by Alan Hartcher, on Flickr

 

The blue base coat is down. Now for lots of sanding and re-painting till its all smooth.

17112009392 by Alan Hartcher, on Flickr

 

After that, i can put down the final colour.

29112009403 by Alan Hartcher, on Flickr

19122009421 by Alan Hartcher, on Flickr

29112009404 by Alan Hartcher, on Flickr

 

I also pulled out the fuel tank while i was there, that'll get cleaned up and the HP pump put into it.

[C.A.R.]

Top stuff Alan

[nizm0zed]

few more pics...

 

 

 

 

 

[nizm0zed]

well, as you can see in a couple of the last pics, the final coat was very dark.

Darker than i wanted, and darker than some other bits i had painted.

It was also the first time i had sprayed over a blue base coat, the bonnet and guard werent done that way.

I was also getting lots of orange peel.

After looking into it, it seems that too much paint was going down, because i was spraying with a 2.0mm needle in my gun.

It was also having the effect of causing the paint to change colour, the purple in it would rise, the blue would sink with the metallic.

 

I bought a new gun (yay for staff price) and tried my theory of a smaller needle.

Basically it worked really well, so heres better pics of it in its proper colour.

 

 

as you can see, its a lot lighter, with a lot stronger metallic in it.

looks better in person :wink:

[Sirpent]

So far very nice, it's been cleared right?

 

If so looks dry and will be a Biatch to rub back, but once polished will look glassy.

 

The color consistency looks great, no wet application streaks or blotches, well done.

 

Cheers

 

John

[nizm0zed]

nope, hasnt been cleared, wont for a while.

 

All the bits are getting painted individually, then once its done, assembled and a final coat, for consistency, then i'll drop a clear over it.

Im also giving it time for any chemicals to leach out of the paint, dont want them trapped under the clear.

[Sirpent]

Sorry Alan,

 

But thats an unusual way of doing it, leaving the base coat exposed is a bit risky, the surface in that state is pretty vulnrable as anything that collects on the surface will need to be removed and tack clothing wont get everything off without disturbing the base color.

 

The other problem you will face is unless you get the exact same rythem in application, pressure etc etc etc as you did on this application, there will be a visible difference in the shades between panels unless you mean you are going to do a final application of color over all the panels bolted up in place before the clear is applied?

 

By the way, if its acrylic base, and you let it cure properly, you do know you can lock it up in a 2K clear such as Sparten AS3000 with a fast acting hardener?

 

Cheers

 

John

[nizm0zed]

yes, i meant that once eveything has a coat or two, it'll all be assembled and painted 'as one' so to speak.

 

The car lives in a shed, so there arent going to be many things settling on it, just dust.

 

Yes it is acrylic, i find it a lot easier to work with and a lot more forgiving.

I didnt know about the 2K clear, i'll have to look into that.

I would like to do the final coats myself, but realistically i woll more than likely get a qualified mate to do it.

So far the way its going, only the dash reco, tuning and 1 or 2 complex machining items have been/will be outsourced.

Everything else is in house, or in 'shed'

I know full well its going to have imperfections and flaws in it, but at the end of the day, its not a show car, its being built to drive hard and enjoy.

[nizm0zed]

Updates....

 

Been doing a few small things on it, just havent got around to updating anything.

 

I got an alloy radiator off ebay, fits quite nicely.

 

Im working on the rear brakes at the moment, R31 discs.

photos to come once finished.

The rear taillight is partially finished and now hinges to allow access to the fuel filler tube that was custom made for the job.

The fuel pump has been fitted next to the tank and everything checked for leaks.

I also made a dump pipe off the turbo.

Today i kicked it over, and it actually started!!!!

It needs tuning, thats next on the list.

 

Video of it running for the first time in years.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GcFj5h739kU

[RB30X]

Which one of the many alloy ebay coolers did you buy. I was looking at them wondering about the quality.

 

Also, make sure you post lots of photos of the rear brake upgrade

[nizm0zed]

lol, yea photos.

Imageshack is being a bit s%$#ty at the moment, so pics of the radiator to come soon.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/3-CORE-race-aluminum-radiator-datsun-240Z-260Z_W0QQitemZ280484522089QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAU_Car_Parts_Accessories?hash=item414e2e2869

Thats the one i got, from ASI performance.

I made an offer of $250 for it, and he accepted it.

im very happy with the quality, the welds are good and the finish is pretty good.

Needs a good polish though.

 

I'll definately put up pics of the rear disc swap.

to be honest i couldnt find much info at all on here about it, other than a few people saying it was easy. (and no pics)

I have had to extensively mod the brackets and i still haven quite worked out how to get the handbrake working properly yet.

[Aaron Neubauer]

Sounded healthy if that was the first time it was turned over in a while.

 

I'll definately put up pics of the rear disc swap.

to be honest i couldnt find much info at all on here about it, other than a few people saying it was easy. (and no pics)

I have had to extensively mod the brackets and i still haven quite worked out how to get the handbrake working properly yet.

 

I'm looking at doing the R31 swap too and like yourself, I haven't found a great deal of info on the web.  I'll be staying tuned for photos! 

 

[chris240]

looking good Alan...

Ive been carrying around your thermostat housing for a few weeks now, I'll pop in this week. 

[nizm0zed]

Pictures as requested.....

 

 

R31 skyline caliper bracket

needed to be cut in half and the centre hole increased in diameter.

You'll allso need to re drill the mounting holes.

Make sure you mark up the holes and enlarge the centre to allow the caliper to sit in as close as possible, or the pads will overhang the rotor.

 

Caliper bracket bolted to the stub axle.

I found it works well to aim to have the caliper on the horizontal axis, forwards of the axle.

there is an indent in the wheel arch to accomodate the bulk of the caliper.

 

The caliper mounted.

note how i have made the handbrake cable mount go over the top of the stub axle.

I havent figured out how im doing the cable yet, but it looks like this'll work well.

If it sits any other way, it appears to aim the cable straight into other things.

I have also twisted the mounting bracket to give a bit more clearance away from the half shaft.

I'll need custom lines made up, and it may be a pain to bleed, as the bleeder is now in the lower half of the caliper.

 

 

[nizm0zed]

also up today while im camera happy, pics of the rear tail light where the fuel filler is hidden.

 

 

i still need to build the LED tail lights and attach them to the rear of the frame and i still need to build a cap for the filler neck.

 

for anyone paying attention, yes the picture quality has dropped.

I broke my phone a month or so ago, and im now using my backup phone.

i promise i'll get a phone with a decent camera soon

(no, dont suggest getting a camera, i'll either lose or break it.)

[DatPilot]

ver niiiice....

just wondering what you are useign for an oil pump???

[nizm0zed]

for an oil pump?

The standard one on the motor.

Its essentially a turbo spec block.

if i find that the pump isnt performing as well as i want, i'll either upgrade it, or rig up an external driven one.

[RB30X]

Thanks for posting those caliper pics. Looks great (but by a camera )

 

So, from your pics I'm guessing you haven't had to machine the R31 rotor to a slightly smaller diameter because you've drilled the 2 new mounting holes on the bracket on a closer radius to the center of the old circle than the original holes, placing the caliper on a slightly larger radius to clear the rotor (does that make sense) and you were able to do this because you chopped the braket in half and are only using two bolts holes rather than three. Will this be strong enough to support the caliper? And why did you have to e-longate the caliper holes on the bracket, won't the caliper move around slightly now. Also, how do the brake pads sit on the rotor now, is there a slight gap between the pads wipe pattern and the edge of the rotor. Sorry about all the questions, just being thorough.

cheers