Kato Kids BMW M3 powered 71' 240Z
Posted 27 January 2010 - 10:12 AM
A few months ago I purchased a 77' 2+2 with the intention of doing some serious mods (RB25DET) to it however the car is very original, came with RWC, original rego, lots of paperwork all matching numbers etc and is in good condition so Ive decided to keep it as a weekend driver while I looked for another candidate that I wouldnt loose sleep over inflicting some serious mods too.
Wasnt too long before I got lucky.... through a friend of a friend I heard about a Z that had been sitting in a garage for many years and manged to convince the owner to let me take a peek. Initial impressions wernt that great but as I looked closer I realised it had some potential.
Car is a 4/71 plated HS30 chassis # 00728 and had been partly stripped 17 years ago for a resto by the current owner but he lost interest and never went any further. The full drive train and underbonet were undisturbed but he's pulled all panels off as well as the interior and paint stripped the shell. All parts were in boxes and marked.
Overall condition of car:
No "visible" holes under the battery tray.
No holes near bonnet hinge mounts
Fuel filler excellent.
Rear hatch and hinge mounts excellent.
Slam panel, rear valance and beaver panel excellent.
Spare wheel well excellent.
Drivers floor and rail good (I think).
Bonnet has a small hole.
Rear wheel arches are pretty good 8/10.
Not so Good Bits
Both doors will need skins.
Front guards will need repair sections.
Reinforcement plate on chassis side near caster rod has holes on battery side, drivers side looks suss.
Passenger rear floor and rail will need repair, front half looks OK.
Both dog legs, rear section of sill and inner section are pretty bad.
Passenger front sill panel (behind guard) stuffed.
Top radiator support panel had a foam seal glued to it and is pretty sad.
I finally convinced the owner that it was better off in my shed than his so we swaped cash and car.
Overall Im pretty happy with the acquisition.
It had been repainted from the beige original colour to a dark red and is covered in residual paint stipper and superficial surface rust. Plan is to get it on a rotisserie and have it blasted to reveal the deeper evil.
Thanks to Lurch for looking over the 2+2 and advice thus far and thanks to all on the forum for the inspiration to take this on.
Will see you at the BBQ tomorrow night.
Posted 27 January 2010 - 01:48 PM
Posted 27 January 2010 - 06:30 PM
If you're going to the BBQ tomorrow would like to hear your thoughts on what was good about the RB25DE combo and why you didn't stay with it.
Posted 27 January 2010 - 07:44 PM
Posted 29 January 2010 - 06:49 PM
Posted 29 January 2010 - 07:23 PM
Posted 03 February 2010 - 01:32 PM
Went to the PO's place last night to pick up the doors and rear hatch that I couldn't take with me when I picked up the car. Rear hatch is pretty good, just one small rust hole in the window channel. Door frames are good but skins will be required.
Bonus time.....the deal included an old engine that was under the PO's house, he didn't know much about it and I hadn't even looked at it. We pulled it out and when I got home I compared the numbers on the data plate...bingo they match, so Ive got the original engine!
Head is an E31 casting, from what I read these are sought after??? Engine hasn't had a sump on it but inside the crankcase isn't rusty and it turns freely so will crack it open and see what I find inside.
Posted 03 February 2010 - 02:59 PM
Posted 22 February 2010 - 11:10 AM
Mechanically the car was complete when I purchased it so before I pulled the engine thought I would check what condition it was in. Changed the oil, pulled the plugs and cranked it over for a while to get some oil pressure and fuel to the carbs, refitted the plugs and she started straight away and ran really well. Not bad after 17 years. Couldn't drive it though as the brake MC had no fluid in either circuit.
Anyway, pulled the engine and gear box last week. The front edge of the shifter opening in the trans tunnel had been enlarged by about 100mm which suggested it had a later gearbox installed, and sure enough the oil filler is on the left hand side so probably a 280 box??? Then I did a bit of a double take when I saw the tailshaft with two slip joints! Cant say Ive ever seen this before so unless Nissan had some weird tailshaft theories going on I'm guessing that the car was originally equipped with a 71A box with the flange and to fit the later box someone has taken the flange off the front universal and fitted the slip yoke in its place resulting in what you see below. If universal joints the same size then its possible.
Car is 2/71 and chassis 728, is this early enough to have a 71A fitted from factory? Any comments appreciated.
She's basically stripped now and once the front and rear suspension is out its time for the rotisserie. Fuel, handbrake and brake lines will be removed on the rotisserie.
Posted 22 February 2010 - 11:17 AM
Posted 22 February 2010 - 06:24 PM
Why is the Burg half a KTM? If so, does that make it a quarter a Husky? remember they took all the best bit's to Italy...
Posted 22 February 2010 - 07:10 PM
Still want to do a tough NA RB30DE or even a M3 if I can find one.
Ive had KTM's for many years and wanted something different, since KTM bought Husaberg they've really made a difference. The Burg is all KTM except the actual frame design. Even the cylinder head and gearbox internals are mostly pirated bits from the KTM parts list. Should hook up for a ride if your local.
Posted 10 March 2010 - 12:23 PM
Posted 13 March 2010 - 08:01 PM
Posted 27 March 2010 - 05:33 PM
Finally got the rotisserie built and got the car up on it. Its so good to be able to flip it over to work on it! And before Lurch or anyone else jumps on me, yes I still have to add the tie bar between the front and rear pivots.
Thought I would be clever and bought 2 x $99.00 Chinese engine stands with the idea that I would just add some height and width to these as it would be cheaper than buying all the steel and wheels from scratch. Turns out the Chinese engine stands use 60x60 RHS and we only have 65x65 RHS in Aus so ended up building most from scratch in 65 and only used the pivots/plates and wheels. Used 50x50 Duragal for the chassis mounts cos I had it lying around.
Its nice to see the underside in good daylight and refreshing to really confirm condition of the floor pans.
Next on the list is to remove the sound deadening on the inside, has anyone tried the dry ice method as opposed to a heat gun. Any feedback apprecited.
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