andyk_79

Amen to that !!

Holy crap registered and all. I think this guy should prepare for a lot of phone calls !!!

If you do sell it the buyer is a very lucky person. Have seen all the work you've put in on your build thread. Don't want to be an ass to prospective buyers but I think given the fully restored state of the body and all the other work you've done 25k could be selling yourself short !

Ha ha ha that is gold - kinda looks like someone who might have been hanging out with George when his profile pic was taken

Not sure if you saw the sticky thread about building up an L26 and the possible results? Whilst I can't comment on it from experience I did enjoy reading through their approach and results etc: http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,2415.0.html

A realisation - is the cylindrical switch to the left of the pedals in the drivers footwell actually the dimmer switch for the headlights ? I had assumed it was the kickdown switch for the auto trans but tracking wiring etc I think the kickdown switch is actually on the accelerator pedal mechanism ? So pulling back on the turn signal would only flash your lights rather than jumping between high and low ? Edit: The switch looks something like this and is indeed a headlight dimmer switch: http://www.jcwhitney.com/keep-it-clean-dimmer-switch/p3086760.jcwx?filterid=c1643d1659u0j1 Reading a few more bits and pieces it would appear this is not factory ? and would go some way to explaining why I can't work out what the hell is going on with the lights wiring and wiring to the indicator switch.......

18th is good for me

Genuine question as I have no idea - are Z's extra rare in NZ ? Compared to AU it seemed a big price given the sketchy knowledge the guy selling it had of the car - he couldn't even confirm if it was running......

I had thought the same Gav, and whilst I won't be 100% certain until it arrives, from the pictures it is part for part exactly the same layout, even down to the side the horn button contact is on. I'm thinking that the light/wiper switch may have been different (opposite directions for light toggle) but the indicator side of the switch may have been the same, just rotated around the column.

A few bits of slow progress have been happening. I spent pretty much all day last Sunday stripping, sanding, treating and priming ONE of the seat frames. Reasonably happy with the job but there were bits I just couldn't get all of the old coating off because of shape etc. I was originally thinking I would spray paint them with some rust guard, but I am now considering getting them blasted and powder coated. Are there any durability issues with painting metal that is in constant contact with other material (ie seat foam) ? If the paint will hold up OK I'll get a set of wire brushes for the drill to have a better crack at the second one (and maybe redo some of the first). As per another thread (http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,15074.0.html) I got back into looking at the wiring. To be honest the electricals still scare the crud out of me but every day during my 2 hours of train commuting I have been reading blogs, watching Youtube tutorials and looking at diagrams to get my knowledge up. To that end I have established that my turn signal/dimmer switch is missing parts, wires and a harness. Was worried about that because I know how hard they can be to track down but found this on ebay: (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/261651663910?ru=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com.au%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_from%3DR40%26_sacat%3D0%26_nkw%3D261651663910%26_rdc%3D1#payCntId). Even though it is from I presume an LHD car it looks exactly the same as what I have. Spent some time studying the pics vs what I have taken off the car and I cannot spot a single difference (apart from the ebay one being complete). So that will be ordered later in the week. This week I'll follow the headlight wires back from the headlight buckets to try and work out where they are terminating. I've found a lot of things under the dash and behind the fuse box (including the obviously not connected speedo cable) but cannot locate a headlight loom/plug. Pulled out the dodgy hands free kit (http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,15011.msg160114.html#msg160114) . It was indeed the source of the wires that had been spliced off the ignition wires with inline glass fuses. The speaker at least was only cable tied to the steering column vs screwed or bolted. Interestingly the control unit for the kit was not in the car - the wires were excessively long (3 to 4 metres, with 2 coiled up and shoved under dash) and ended in an unused plug............ Bunch of parts on their way from MSA - decided it was prudent that when I switch over the headers and exhaust that I replace the exhaust manifold studs. Also ordered a Pertronix kit, water inlet cover (mine is quite corroded) and a couple of other nits and pieces.

I was glad they made some effort to get it back to original in the interior. Nothing irreversible in the body work.

It's a 72 auto. The main multi switch completely works (parklights, tail lights, wipers all work). The horn also works (worked out the fine metal I referred to is the horn switch - still not sure why someone decided to splice it into the kickdown switch wiring but que sera. I've since also worked out that there is part of the switch missing (contact plate for hi-low switch) as well as being short a few wires. It's definitely not in the spare bits that came with the car so I'm resigned to trying to get a hold of another switch.

Great stuff Rudi!

Done

If anyone wants a set they are welcome to these. For some reason one of the previous owners bought a set even though the early 72's didn't have them. Plugs etc all look ok but I haven't tested. Guessing about $10 to post.

I should have also noted - much as I try to follow the wiring diagrams with some wires being changed the colours no longer match...... :'(

Agree - the 8's will probably fit if you get your guards rolled.

Hoping for some guidance on what I am looking at. As background my headlights and indicators are not working but just about every other light on the car is working, including tail lights and parkers when light switch is on. I am a relative noob, having only done basic maintenance on my crars before and am trying to learn. I've been trying to follow where I need to test by following the wiring diagram from xenons30 and Haynes manual as well as guides like these: http://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2012/12/04/turn-signal-repair/ http://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2013/01/20/hazard-switch-brake-light-turn-signal-circuit-analysis/ When looking at the indicator / hi-low switch I got somewhat confused. I am now certain that this is the root of my problem and I could not get any multimeter readings off the switch at all. From looking at pictures and from the first link above and elsewhere I am fairly certain that a 260z switch has been retrofitted, but possibly never wired in properly. Firstly Haynes manual suggests there is a bridging wire between the 2 halves of the combo switch. Mine definitely did not have this? From what I can work out this is probably reason 1 for no headlights? Can anyone help me with where from the main switch connects to where on hi-low/ Reason 2 for no headlights: all the pictures I have seen have 1 or 2 wires soldered into the white block on the back of the switch. After removing the switch I have worked out this is obviously the out of the hi-low. I have no loose wires floating around under the dash which is interesting. I'm not sure though if I did have the wires how they hook up? Pics look like solder but since switch only holds one position I'm not sure if something else is missing? Actually I'm not even sure where the wires are but that's another issue. The wire soldered to the fine metal tab in pic below went to the harness for the auto kickdown solenoid. I know the answer but this is not correct right? I quite loudly vocalised a WTF when I worked out where it went.......... Just imagining the guy who installed it saying to someone "to turn right just drop down a gear and you'll be ok". So 2 questions here: should a wire be soldered there and if so where should it go? Sorry for the dodge photos I always take. I don't have particularly steady hands ( I'm resigned to never welding on my car having shaken my way through test welds in the past) My last confusion is that this male plug (labelled 4) has 3 holes, but only 2 wires/plugs. The female it plugged into of course had the full complement of 3.......... Hoping someone can advise where this should be connecting from. I think if anything this is possibly where the "kickdown" wire should go. The 2 wires that are connected are soldered to the 2 ends of the indicator switch:

At least the guy in my car had the decency to shove excess speaker wire in between the fuse panel and the trans tunnel! Around brake pedal could make things interesting......

I'm keen

Ahh yep - that makes sense. There is a little mic up near the roof lining on drivers side. Still interesting that speaker fixed on to steering column though ! I'm gonna take it out as I'm not even sure where the spot is to plug phone in.

I present to you the double wammy when trying to work out what might be wrong with my indicators. A speaker mounted on the steering column and a bunch of wires with empty in line fuse holders that as far as I can tell the wires serve no purpose whatsoever. No wonder the wiring is doing my head in!

Things are definitely happening for you George! Price seems pretty good for the interior and it looks a nice set up. My seat backs had rust at the bottom - pretty much in all the places where the foam was well and truly stuck on to the frame after 40 years. I had rust along the top of the frame as well and pitting/surface rust on the headrest part of the sheetmetal which yours don't seem to have. I'm part way through cleaning them up - was a missing husband all of Sunday working on one of them !

I must have been delirious last night becuase in the full light today the hole is quite obviously a missing grommet. The moisture is mostly grease, road dirt and crap from having a hole in the floor. The change found on the floor will cover the cost then