thriller

Sorry I should have clarified better! I'll be going back to bare metal, filling (hopefully don't need much!), etch primer, then hi-fill/normal primer(can't remember which order or if hi-fill negates need for normal :/). Then sanding sanding sanding sanding & off to a booth we go Must say, hats off to you for the effort on that 1600!

If I was to do mine again I'd more strongly consider an epoxy primer. From my fairly novice understanding... An etch is only really there to allow the primer to 'lock' to the metal underneath better. Like a primer for the primer, so ideally you're meant to paint it over pretty quick, and whether or not you can apply filler over/under... about as many opinions as there are options. Whereas epoxy sounds like you can epoxy-prime, leave it for a while, fill, prime, then paint pretty safely. Because it's non-porous. So comparatively, porous etch, then porous filler over the top you'd want to keep it pretty moisture free & paint over it ASAP. But from the sounds of things, epoxy seems safer if you're not going to be painting within a few months. Fooor example... I used Wattyl Super Etch on 1/2 of my roof (was stuck with mechanics so I stripped back some paint to do something useful with my weekend) and on a 1/4 panel. Etch primed, then primed with normal primer same day. Few months later & there's evidence of oxidization showing. I always keep a car cover on, though it's only a carport & we get some pretty frosty nights. So when I'm ready for painting I'll strip it all back to metal, etch, prime & cart it off to be painted ASAP. FWIW the tin normally says filler on bare metal, so that's where my chips are.

Spewing. I guess the myth is alive because it barely fits? So all the NS bandits say it's fine and 'fits perfectly'... Ah well... Guess I owe you 1k then

Progress looks awesome. I'm quite sure an auto S13 tailshaft suits the 6spd in an S13. Not 100% if it'll suit 6spd in s13 w/ s15 rear end, but I have one here you're welcome to try.

Bah! A great condition, classic car with silver paint on red interior is far classier than your boring new 5-series on lease. Congrats on the purchase Look forward to hopefully seeing it around..

Canberra cars seem to be Australia's version of Cali cars... I've got one and the hype is true Looks like an OK starting point. Pull back the paint, some fresh orange, manual box and you've got a pretty nice Z for < 15k.

Nice shots! Love that limey/avocado-ey color on the Z Interesting ... uhhh.. repairs here... http://shaun-maluga.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/ShaunMaluga_AllJap_062_3600.jpg (too bit to post)

Not a nice surprise there at all! I'd try bending a piece of sheet by using the other side of the car as a template. Just hand pressure should get a close shape, and lightly tap with the hammer along the edge to curl it over the edge. Then check how it fits on the rusty side, massage as needed. Even if you just use a few scrap bits of steel and have a few practice goes before deciding to pay someone else, all you've lost is a bit of your time and hopefully gained some XP points. Someone on here could surely make a perfect patch for the right $$$. Not sure how I feel about the wheels, but at least you aren't leaving it rusty like most other steely-wearing Z-rats

Cool! Saw this just go as well. Would be a hard rubbish chair if it didn't have the Datsun branding. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Vintage-Datsun-Deck-chair-promo-Datsun-1200-1600-120Y-240z-260z-280z-240K-/321137265221?_trksid=p2047675.l2557&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEDWX%3AIT&nma=true&si=jKfHXaWQMHwOd5CG%252FYnD5m2X%252Fm4%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc

Gareth I think the early cars were not painted inside, probably late 71 onward I'm pretty sure they all had some kind of interior coating? Roberto, 2 stage acrylic can look really really good with a lot of buffing. For me the extra 'hardiness' of 2 pack didnt matter too much. Depends if you plan on leaving it parked under trees without washing it for weeks on weeks... Apparently acrylic is quite a bit more forgiving for a noob painter. Id have no worries about painting my car myself if I had chosen non metallic FWIW I reckon a really really really deep blue would look great. Tough choice.

4x sub #00060 chassis cars, one being #11 :o :o Least theyre being looked after, rather than those weirdos who pack their backyard full of nice cars and just leave them to rot for a decade

'Fully' restored kind of implies it is as good, if not better, than it was when rolling out of Yokohama, riiight down to the bolts on the diff cover. The term is pretty over-used, and whenever I see 'fully restored' these days I just think it's had a respray within 4 years and probably a good cm of bog in a few places. And more often than not, an engine bay in some hideous other color covered in stains, grease and muck. Still; documented and 'sorta' restored is better than no documentation and god-knows-what under a shiny layer of fresh paint. Better the devil you know right?

Phwoaar working with the big G! I've just applied for an internship there That's probably as far as I'll get with every single C.S. student in the country applying too though hahaha. Almost welcome back.,

I have an auto S13 as my first car (very nearly had a champagne 2+2, but was a little too much of a project for someone who didn't own a socket set); allowed me to get my hands dirty and change it to manual pretty cheaply + lots of resources out there which was good to learn with. Then dove in the deep and and bought a rusty Zed a year later, without really doing the necessary research. Certainly in retrospect a mistake, but got me hooked, learned lots, etc etc. Still sitting patiently, and still very rusty. Finally have been fortunate enough to buy another two seater project-in-pieces with a very very nice body. This was good as I knew there would be few, if any, surprises. I guess that car was technically the ideal first Z, but without the rustbucket I wouldn't have bought my second one Knowing what I do now.. If you want a project, but many months of rust repair does not excite you, either wait for a good solid shell, or hand the body + cash to someone who knows them well. Then go to your hearts content refreshing parts and bolting it all back together. In the time you spend fixing up a shitty rotten shell, you will almost certainly come across another, much cleaner, body for not too much money more. Stretching your project budget by $3,000 might save you $6,000 / few hundred hours in the long run. Happy hunting!

Got the blaster out again for a few things. Brake/clutch MC, alternator housing, yada yada. Blasted the rack around where the pinion goes (99.9% sure this is how the factory had it looking?) Painted the brake booster, crossmember A few goodies from Classic Car Nagoya; 260 calendar clock (Font matches the later gauge font used in the 77's which is nice), and a reproduction of the Works optional 'rally' shift knob, looks 100% identical except for the color, so will varnish it darker when it arrives. Will use this + a 240 steering wheel, as I don't like the 260z steering wheel, or 260z shift knob (if you can even find a decent one). What's not to love about woodgrain, in a brown interior, in a champagne colored Z, on gold + polished alloy wheels? 70's overload! Anyway I've just asked CCN to put them aside for me as I've also got my heart set on a stainless steel reproduction of the 240z twin stacked exhaust. Beautiful thing. Quite a while away $$$$$ Also recieved my bolts and fittings back from A class metal here in S.A.. Price was reasonable, quality is incredible (I can't tell the difference between the old bolts and some new ones I have here). Did a wet sand, cut and polish on the engine bay too. Turned a pretty peely job into... a shiny peely job . And finally started bolting things in. Taking shape nicely. Few things; *I'm missing the brackets + rubber insulators that hold down the fuel lines and brake line in the engine bay. Are these still available? They seem totally different to the 240z and early 260z ones from the photos I've seen online * What do you guys do about coating alloy parts after being blasted? I was thinking of just a clear coat, but on the other hand is that even necessary? Or does raw alloy stay looking decent if it's free from moisture and rain and dirt and crap?

judging from what Roberto said I don't think it's up for grabs Kind of odd that it's sitting out in the rain though? $1500 would get you a Z in the U.S.A. pretty easy. Too bad we're so far away

Looks like you should do some investigative door-knocking Judging by the state of the other cars, it wouldn't hurt to try and find out. Girlfriend wants a lime Z to match her shoes. Good enough reason for me! (btw bad idea posting this up. Better go banging on their door at 9:00 AM Monday! Or better yet ring the number on that van and find out quick-smart)

I'd personally make an effort to see: http://www.speedhunters.com/2013/04/japans-good-old-days-the-yokota-musuem/ The shop named Classic Car Nagoya is kinda cool and that's on my list too. They have an English speaking employee who deals with international customers so you might have a better conversation and learn more stuff there than at Rocky (p.s. they've got loads of good Z bits! But shh ). There's a few major cool events that I'd kinda base my trip around seeing in a few years. But I think you're a few months the wrong side of most of them. December normally hosts the Nismo Festival, then obviously Auto Salon early Jan. JCCA New Year meeting has some insanely cool bosozoku rides. Then around Feb is Nagoya Exciting Car Showdown, and Nostalgic 2 Days. Not sure if any car festivals are on in June though! A trip on a friday night out to Daikoku P.A. could be cool or a let-down. Apparently hard to get out there without a car.

Yeah hope so Gareth! I've organized and sourced a few little trick bits (and a big one) from J-land. Few months away at the least. Woolies income sure keeps a lid on things though.. May be a good thing! I dropped off two buckets worth of bolts to A class metal here in S.A. for Zinc dipping/plating so they'll be ready in ~2 weeks. Then I can start bolting things back together which I'm quite looking forward to. Also need to do a bit of a cut and then polish on the engine bay, I've wetsanded most of the clear peel out so it's not terrible. Not too happy with the finish up close, but realistically when there's triple carbs and shiny bolts everywhere it shouldn't be too noticeable. I think it was mainly gun setup, I've turned down the pressure heaps since then and finishing is a lot better now. practice practice. I decided to draw the line on brake/fuel lines though, so I've just scrubbed them back, and sprayed them silver. I figured if i went ahead and replaced them all and got all the fittings plated etc, I'd probably never finish the car. Also made good use of the blaster today on the brake line distribution block thingy. Looked like they always do beforehand, all cruddy and filthy, after a quick blast looks almost brand new. Really realluy keen to start putting it back together now

I have the slip yolk part, uni joint and about 2 inches of the tailshaft, rest has been cut. You're welcome to it for postage costs if you end up getting one made and want the front piece.. Ryan

Unfortunately phone mic makes it sound pretty cactus

+1 thanks for putting together a great day. Surprisingly good turnout. Good food/zedss/people/everything Paul, think you've ended up with an extra fold up chair that I forgot on the way out.. Will come past Monday ? Otherwise I'll forget again and I'll never pick it up. Got a video of the lime rocket doing it's best attempt to shoot off of the dyno rollers, will link it up tomorrow.

+1 to Gav, that looks like a pretty honest car & a great base to start with. It's hard not to lose some motivation when your beautiful Z car has been nothing more than a shell for a year , so get the best start you can possibly afford otherwise your only car will be forever in repairs and you'll have pissed off parents who are sick of looking at it! So even if you have to wait for another 6 months to save up the extra for something 5-8k, it'll save you probably 12 months work that it would take to get a $2,000 Z up to the shape of a $8,000 Z.